Budget ebike build. Are spare parts available?

E-bike Conversion Cost – How Much Does It Cost to Convert Your Bike to an E-Bike?

Electric bikes are the new way to get around! people are ditching their traditional bikes for an e-bike; whether for commuting, exercising, or just recreational riding. However, investing in a new battery-powered bike can prove to be a costly affair!

Luckily, those of you who are looking for a cheaper way to own an e-bike can opt for an electric bike conversion kit.

This conversion kit allows you to turn your current traditional bike into an e-bike while promising the same kind of experience you get from a new bike. But just how much does an e-bike conversion kit cost, and what will it take to convert your traditional bike electric?

What is the Cost of an Electric Bike Conversion Kit?

Now that you know how to convert a regular bike into an e-bike using a conversion kit, the question remains how much will you pay for such a kit?

Typically, an electric bike conversion kit ranges between 300 and 900! This is what you’ll pay for a basic kit, although you can find much cheaper options, as well as top-shelf units. Note that the range above is for good quality conversion kits that will offer value for your money.

The of the conversion kits vary depending on the motor included, and what you plan to use the bike for. Some kits may feature the ability to adjust the control when riding on rugged terrains. Meanwhile, other kits FOCUS on speed, which is ideal for the speed demons who want to test the limits of the bike on long stretches.

So, aside from the price of the conversion kit, you also want to consider the type of motor and the intended use of the bike when shopping for a unit.

In a nutshell, all electric bicycles are essentially regular bikes with a motor and battery added! All other components, including the frame, fork, tires, wheels, grips, derailleurs, shifters, stem, brakes, seat post, saddle, etc. are exactly the same on both a regular bike and an electric bike. The only parts unique to an e-bike are the battery and motor. Just add these to your normal bike, and with a few tweaks here and there, you’ll be good to go!

Electric Bike Conversion Kits

Electric bike conversion kits help to transform your standard pedal bicycle into an e-bike with the same kind of performance you’d expect from a new bike; only that you’ll be paying a fraction of the price. A decent conversion can be done at the cost of a cheap e-bike, if not for less.

The benefit of converting is that you can use a bike you already own, which will usually be of higher quality than bikes used for budget e-bikes. You also enjoy more room for customization to create a bike that best fits your riding style.

While most e-bike conversion kits will contain the electric components, you’ll need to buy a battery for your new bike; this is usually not included. So, you’ll have to buy a suitable battery for your bike.

Best Electric Bike Kits

When choosing the best e-bike conversion kits, we considered elements including ease of installation, power output, ease of control, design, extra features, cost, customer reviews and more. Based on these factors, these are the top e-bike kits on the market.

Each product featured here has been independently selected by the writer. Learn more about our review methodology here. If you make a purchase using the links included, we may earn a commission.

Best Overall: Ebikeling Waterproof Ebike Conversion Kit

The Ebikeling Waterproof Ebike Conversion Kit offers a solid, feature-packed motorized wheel hub unit to easily convert any pedal bike into a hybrid e-bike powerhouse. A weatherproof design and powerful 1,200W motor mean you can take electric propulsion anywhere your adventures take you, from street to trail.

The Ebikeling is packed with plug-and-play features like cruise control, pedal-assist mode and all of the parts needed to hook up to your bike and a battery. We especially like the multiple throttle options this unit offers, including front thumb, rear thumb and front twist. An LCD display gives you essential information on battery levels, speed, error codes and more right on your handlebar. The only downsides to this awesome package are you’ll need to purchase a separate tire and battery (48V or 52V is recommended), and it’s expensive.

Customer Rating: 4.4 out of 5 stars with over 160 Amazon ratings

Why Buy: The Ebikeling Waterproof Ebike Conversion Kit is powerful enough to tackle the toughest trails and subtle enough to cruise city streets. Simple installation and intuitive operation make this a hands-down best performer for e-bike conversion kits. If you have the budget to buy a battery (not included), the Ebikeling conversion kit is as deserving on your favorite bike as it is at the top of our list.

Best Front-Wheel Conversion Kit: Bafang 48V 500W Front Hub Motor Electric Bike Conversion Kit

Surprisingly simple to install and use, the Bafang 48V 500W Front Hub Conversion Kit is easy on the wallet and your mechanic skills. We love the multiple battery options this product offers, and a wide offering of rim sizes means you’ll never find a bike that can’t be e-converted. The waterproof motor and connectors make this a great front-end, go anywhere conversion kit.

The Bafang kit replaces your standard brake levers with units that communicate with the motor, but if you want to keep your hydraulic brakes, just let Bafang know in your order, and the company will ship you a brake sensor instead. Also, while this front-motor drive is designed for disk brake rims, if your bike has a V brake, Bafang’s got you covered — just let the company know via email, and it’ll make sure you get the right rim.

Customer Rating: 4.0 out of 5 stars with about 60 Amazon ratings

Why Buy: The sticker price may shock you at first glance, but don’t be fooled: Other cheaper options don’t include the battery, nor come close to matching Bafang’s quality and performance. The Bafang 48V 500W conversion kit is the best front hub conversion assembly that’s truly ready to go out of the box.

Best Rear-Wheel Conversion Kit: Voilamart 26″ Rear Wheel Electric Bicycle Conversion Kit

Voilamart makes top-shelf e-bike performance attainable for your old velocipede with a capable 1,500W electric motor and envelope-pushing quality, and the waterproof motor kit and connectors mean you can take that 1,500W of power anywhere.

Unlike other models listed here, the Voilamart comes with a pre-installed nylon tire, sparing you the hassle of self-installation or a trip to the shop. The LCD display clearly indicates battery level, pedal assistance settings, speed and modes. Cyclists get excellent control over battery life with adjustable amp modes, but keep in mind there is no battery included — you’ll need to purchase one separately.

Customer Rating: 4.4 out of 5 stars with nearly 100 Amazon ratings

Why Buy: Voilamart’s rear-wheel e-bike conversion kit offers a range of premium features at an attractive price point. The powerful motor offers enough juice to climb, splash and cruise through any terrain or street, and a wide range of modes allows great flexibility of battery life, speed and more. There are a few reported issues with design and the manual definitely needs a facelift, but most problems reported are fixed with a bit of patience and elbow grease. Overall, the Voilamart offers a compelling package at an even more compelling price point.

How to Choose the Best E-Bike Conversion Kit

As you can see, there are plenty of quality electric bicycle kits on the market. But which is the best for you? Here are a few things to consider when choosing your new e-bike kit.

How Will You Use Your E-Bike?

The most important factor to consider when purchasing an e-bike conversion kit is how you plan to use it. powerful units are better suited for high-speed and trail riding, while lighter motors are a great option for urban commutes or cruising.

What Kind of Battery Pack Do You Need?

Batteries are something you don’t want to skimp on. You may be able to cut a few corners with a motor and get away with it, but you’ll regret buying a budget battery. Look for well-known battery brands like Panasonic, LG and Samsung. Certain batteries perform better in terms of the distance you can travel (specific energy), how they handle high-load situations like accelerating or traveling uphill (specific power) and safety. Picking the right battery is a balancing act of the activities you plan on doing with your e-bike. Nickel manganese cobalt (NMC) and lithium iron phosphate (LFP) battery chemistry offer the best overall value for the average e-biker, providing a happy medium of capacity, power, safety and price.

Voltage and amps are important considerations when choosing a battery. Choosing the wrong volt/amps rating may damage your e-bike or even start a fire. E-bike motors require specific battery volts, and you should choose a battery that falls in the range of your motor’s voltage requirements. Choosing a battery within the higher voltage limits of your motor’s range usually translates to greater speeds.

Amps are the measure of current flow at a specific voltage. In simplistic terms, amps can be thought of as a measurement of your e-bike’s torque. The higher the amps, the higher the current, and the more torque you’ll have.

Watts (W) is a combination of volts and amps. Battery capacity is measured in watt-hours (Wh) and can tell you the theoretical capacity of your battery. Some manufacturers will claim 50-mile travel distances, but don’t be fooled: Real-world biking scenarios are very, very different from sterile lab conditions, so most 6- to 8-pound lithium-ion batteries will actually have about a 20-mile range.

How Easy Is it to Install?

If you’re buying an e-bike conversion kit because a dedicated e-bike isn’t in the budget, you may also opt to install the kit yourself, so ease of installation is a must. All of the conversion kits listed above have glowing reviews for no-sweat installation, but there are a few reported hiccups: Some filing may need to be done here or there, a spacer or washer may need to be added and the manual’s language may be difficult to follow.

Watch as many tutorial videos as you can (hint: search “your bike model” “your e-bike conversion kit”). And as always, be patient and consult a bike repair professional if necessary.

How Much Speed Do You Need?

In more than 30 states, e-bikes are organized into three classes as defined by speed, wattage and operation. Typically, Class I and II bikes are allowed wherever regular pedal bikes roam. Here’s a breakdown of each class:

• Class I: E-bikes that are pedal-assist only, having no throttle and attaining a max speed of 20 mph
• Class II: Throttle-equipped e-bikes with a max speed of 20 mph
• Class III: Pedal-assist only with a maximum assisted speed of 28 mph

No class can exceed a max motor power of 750W (one horsepower). In some states, e-bikes over 750W are considered motor vehicles, making them subject to certain laws and regulations. Check your state’s motor vehicle department to see if these rules apply to you.

What Intuitive Features Do You Want?

Each manufacturer designs its e-bikes differently. Some control features are simple, such as pedal-activated assist modes. Others require you to toggle the settings from a control monitor. Consider other control designs like throttle and braking configurations. The last thing you want are controls that make you think twice while on the road, creating an unsafe and cumbersome riding experience.

What Design Are You Looking For?

There’s no sugar-coating it: Your classy old Schwinn road bike is going to look different with a motor and battery strapped to it. If you prefer to not wear your tech on your sleeve, there are plenty of options for as sleek and low-tech a look as possible, such as hidden batteries, low-profile or no-profile speed displays and more. If performance is your salient consideration, a slew of techy add-ons are at your disposal.

What’s Your Budget?

Finally, cost. Balance the considerations above and choose an e-bike conversion kit that fits your budget. If you need to skimp a bit on price, don’t do it with the battery.

FAQ: Electric Bike Kits

How much does an e-bike conversion kit cost?

The best e-bike conversion kits cost between 320-700.

What is the best electric bike conversion kit?

We recommend the Ebikeling Waterproof Ebike Conversion Kit to turn your regular bike into an electric bicycle.

Are e-bike conversion kits worth it?

If you have a pedal bike you love, conversion kits are an excellent investment, offering solid performance at a price point significantly lower than a brand new dedicated e-bike. E-bikes allow you to go farther, faster and longer than pedaling alone but still provide great exercise.

E-bikes are also an inclusive means of getting around, as they open the world of cycling to those who may otherwise be unable to ride a bike due to age or physical abilities. They’re a safe, affordable and efficient way to supercharge any old bike into a trail-crushing, commute-slaying, road-riding machine.

How fast does a 1000-watt electric bike go?

A 1,000-watt e-bike can reach a top speed of 35 mph.

Christian Yonkers is a writer, photographer, filmmaker, and outdoor junkie obsessed with the intersectionality between people and planet. He partners with brands and organizations with social and environmental impact at their core, assisting them in telling stories that change the world.

Cheap Electric Bike Kits

If you’re thinking about converting your bike to electric, but are on a tight budget. I have compiled a shortlist of the best cheap electric bike conversion kits available in 2023. You don’t have to spend a lot of money to power your ride, and the cheapest e-bike kits provide a cost-effective way to boost your pedal power!

You can pick up a new or second-hand e-bike nowadays for not a lot of money. But, there’s a certain satisfaction in resurrecting an old bike you’ve got in your shed or garage. That unloved steel-framed mountain bike from the ’80s or ’90s is just begging to be converted into an electric bike. And, if you don’t want to spend a fortune, then the cheap e-bike kits featured below may be the answer.

Most of the e-bike conversion kits featured below are available in the UK, EU and USA. They all use tried and tested technology, that’s been around for years. Sure, they may not be the most refined or efficient motors, or feature the latest tech, but they do the job well. And, because these motors haven’t changed over the years, they’re actually quite reliable.

The Best Cheap E-Bike Kits

The best cheap electric bike conversion kits cost less than £300 / 300 and have positive customer reviews. They have been selected based on my personal experience (with most of the kits featured below), value for money, ease of installation and positive customer feedback. In some cases, I have provided a similarly priced alternative.

Fitting a cheap e-bike conversion kit should be a fairly straightforward process. But, if you haven’t done this kind of thing before, I would recommend getting a qualified bike mechanic to do the installation. There are many safety considerations, and an improperly installed kit may result in serious injury or even death. Please read my quick guide to cheap electric bike kits at the bottom of this page.

Voilamart 1000w E-Bike Conversion Kit

Best 1000w Front / Rear Wheel E-Bike Conversion kit

Specification

• Wheels size: 26″
• Net Weight: 11 kg (24 lbs)
• Power output: 500w – 1500-watts
• Voltage: 36 or 48 volts
• Top speed: 25-30 mph (estimate)
• Battery included: No

The Voilamart e-bike conversion kit has been a popular budget option since 2016. It uses a direct drive hub motor, which has no moving internal parts (like a geared motor). I have installed loads of these conversion kits over the years and had very few problems. The issues that do occur include broken spokes, hall sensor failure or controller failure.

Available in 36-volt 500w or 750w, and 48-volt 1000w or 1500w, the Voilamart electric bike conversion kit has power and voltage options to suit all budgets. In addition, this kit is available with an LCD display or a cheaper throttle-only version.

What it lacks in refinement it makes up for in value for money. If you’re after a cheap way to add electric power to your bicycle, the Voilamart is well worth considering. Read the full Voilamart e-bike kit review for more information.

Alternatives to the Voilamart E-Bike Conversion Kit

The two best alternatives to the Voilamart kit listed below are very similar in terms of quality, price and specification.

Viribus 1000w E-Bike Conversion Kit US and UK (and some EU countries)

Ebikeling 36v 500w

Best 500w Geared Front / Rear Wheel E-Bike Conversion Kit

Specification

• Wheels size: 26″ (other sizes available)
• Net Weight: 7.3 kg (16.1 lbs)
• Power output: 500w
• Voltage: 36-volts
• Top speed: 25 mph (estimate)
• Battery included: No

Ebikeling is an American company based in Schaumburg, Illinois, and its e-bike conversion kits, although not the cheapest, are certainly amongst the best currently available.

The Ebikeling 36v 500w motor kit is one of their best-selling products. Geared hub motors are more efficient than direct drive motors, and they produce considerably more torque. Even though this motor produces a nominal 500w, peak power is closer to 750w – it will feel a lot more responsive than a 1000w direct drive.

This conversion kit has everything you need apart from a battery. The connectors are the much better ‘higo’ waterproof connectors and they even include a torque arm with this kit – something not all kits include. If you don’t mind spending a bit extra, the Ebikeling kit comes highly recommended!

AW 1500w Rear Wheel Kit

Best Cheap E-Bike Kit for Fat Tire Wheel

Specification

• Wheels size: 26″ Fat Tire Wheel
• Net Weight: 10.7 kg (23.6 lbs)
• Power output: 1500w
• Voltage: 48-volts
• Top speed: 32 mph (estimate)
• Battery included: No

If you are thinking about adding an electric motor to your fat tire bike, but are on a tight budget. This motor kit by AW offers excellent value for money. Heavy, direct-drive motors aren’t the ideal solution for off-road riding as they’re inefficient. But, at this price point, it is by far the cheapest option for building your own electric fat bike.

Quick Guide to Cheap Electric Bike Kits

Below I’ve included some common questions relating to the cheap electric bike kits featured in this article. If I’ve missed anything, or you have a particular question. Please leave a message in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев section below, and I will reply within 24 hrs.

What bike is best for a cheap e-bike conversion kit?

Older bikes are generally more suitable for a lot of the kits featured here. They tend to have 26″ or 28″ wheels with quick-release dropouts. Modern bikes can sometimes have pressfit bottom brackets and thru-axles which would make fitting any of the kits difficult without serious engineering modification to the donor bike.

How will I know if the kit is compatible with my bike?

First and foremost, you will need to make sure the wheel size is compatible with your donor bike. If you have a 27.5″ rear wheel for example, you could fit a 26″ rear wheel kit if your bike has disc brakes. I have fitted 26″ rear wheel kits to 27.5″ wheeled mountain bikes previously without any problems.

Most of the generic kits are available in 26″ wheel size only, but there are others available that accommodate 27.5″ and 28″ / 700c / 29er wheel sizes.

The only time you would have an issue fitting a smaller diameter rear wheel would be if your bike had traditional v-brakes. If you had a hybrid with a 700c rear wheel, with v-brakes, then it is unlikely the pads would reach a 26″ rim. So this only works on bikes with disc brakes.

The type of bottom bracket will also be a consideration. The pedal assist sensors are all designed to work with sealed-cartridge bottom brackets. If your bike has external cup bearings (like Shimano Hollowtech), ISIS or pressfit bottom brackets, you will need a special sensor.

Can I fit a hub motor on Carbon fibre frames or forks

Personally, I wouldn’t recommend installing a heavy direct drive hub motor on a carbon fibre bike. These frames weren’t designed to take the extra weight, stresses and strains of one of these motors and it could lead to a potentially dangerous failure. I would definitely stick with alloy or steel-framed bikes.

In my post Electric bike vs conversion kit, I compare the benefits of hub motor vs mid-drive and the pros and cons associated with each type of drive system. Direct-drive hub motors are generally the cheapest and most reliable, but they can be heavy, and difficult to pedal without electric assist. They are also less efficient than their geared hub motor counterparts. For more information check out my article on the direct-drive electric bike hub motor.

What maintenance will I need to do?

Some of these kits, particularly the cheaper direct-drive hub motors add a lot of weight to the rear wheel. This will increase tire wear substantially. In addition, broken spokes are a very common occurrence. I would recommend buying some spare spokes in the correct length. Another consideration is increased wear on brake pads. Due to the extra weight, you will wear them down much quicker.

Are cheap electric bike conversion kits any good?

Just because something is cheap doesn’t necessarily mean it isn’t any good. I have converted countless bikes using budget 500w and 1000w rear wheel electric conversion kits and I have had very few issues.

The direct drive hub motor has been around for a long time and even though they are considered ‘old-hat’ nowadays, they are still a very cheap and effective way to add electric assistance to your bike.

There are two main compromises to consider when buying a cheap direct-drive hub motor – weight and efficiency. A typical 1000w direct-drive motor will weigh in at around 8kg, which is quite a hefty addition to the weight of your bike! Direct drive hub motors are quite basic in design and therefore are not particularly efficient. You will have a reduced battery range when compared with a mid-drive or geared hub motor.

Despite the negatives, if you just want to build a cheap electric bike to get to and from work or do a little leisure riding on the weekend. The kits featured here will do the job!

How do I Choose the right battery?

Most of the kits listed below will require either a 36v, 48v or 52v battery. You will need to make sure your battery voltage matches that of the motor controller. Most 48v controllers will accept a 52v battery and some controllers will accept both 36v and 48v batteries (but you will need to check the label on the controller beforehand). The more powerful 1000w motors will need a battery that can handle at least 20A of continuous current.

Conclusion

All of the cheap e-bike conversion kits featured here offer an affordable way to convert your existing bike to electric. Although direct-drive hub motors are very dated now, this simple technology is usually reliable and affordable. They are inefficient when compared with mid-drive motors but if you’re just after a cheap electric bike to get you from A to B quickly then they’re hard to beat.

If you require any help or advice, relating to any of the kits featured, please leave a message in the comment section below.

Battery

The faster the bike the higher the voltage. A 24V system will get you to around 15mph on the flat on a front hub e-bike. Faster, more powerful e-bikes will need a 36V-48V system as that will take you to a comfortable 30mph, though your limit for a front hub system will be 36V as, as discussed above you will get a fair bit of torque out of it. Batteries go up to 72V for extremely quick and powerful systems.

The Amp-hour (Ah) rating is the next thing to consider. These go from around 5Ah up to 20Ah for a decent long range battery. You will get what you pay for in terms of range – the cheapest will be at the lower capacity and the most expensive at the higher end.

If at all possible, stretch to the higher end of the spectrum as a higher capacity battery will run cooler and last more charges than a cheaper, lower capacity one.

Batteries come in three broad types – the first is a pannier-mounted battery that sits over the rear wheel puts the weight in a less comfortable position but can be easier to fit.

The frame-mounted battery sits in the triangle of the frame and puts the weight in the center of the machine.

A final type sits in your handlebar basket and is good for an easy fit on a front-hub system. This puts the weight where you are controlling the bike and is not recommended for a heavier, larger capacity system as it can alter your maneuverability negatively.

How to build an e-bike

Now you have the design in your head we will look at how to build an e-bike.

With the kits there will usually be a YouTube video and/or paper instructions as to how to put the system together. You will still need some intelligence and thought of your own to put the machine together in a way that doesn’t look a complete mess!

A note on timings – don’t believe what the instructions on your kit say regarding how long it will take. Unless you are a skilled mechanic or electrical engineer (let’s face it: most aren’t), take the time suggested in the manual or YouTube video and double it.

Generally, that will mean 2-3 hours for a front or rear hub system, five or more for a crank motor, and longer for a scratch DIY build.

Front hub

Where it comes to how to build an electric bike, a front hub kit is going to be the easiest.

You will need basic bike mechanic skills, the tools that you have for that maintenance, tools for simple wiring, and some judgment as to how it looks and feels.

The kit will come with a wheel that has been pre-threaded with spokes and the rim. If you have gone out and bought a secondhand bike to convert, or are using an old but quality bike as a platform, think about the tire they supply – this might not be brilliant so you may need a new tire that suits your needs or to swap the tire on the old front wheel onto the new wheel.

If it has disc brakes, you will need to fit the old disc (or a compatible new one) to the new wheel too.

The wheel itself should go on quickly. Spin it to see if it rubs anywhere. Hydraulic disc brakes are a little bulkier, which is why we suggested a mechanical system above – replacing will take more time but should prevent the unwanted friction.

You then fit the torque arms to the fork and wire up the loom, controller and battery. After any brake replacement/servicing this will take the most time as you need to fit it right and neatly. Ultimately the look is going to be important to your handiwork – you don’t want it to look like an old bag of spanners at the end of the day!

Where will the battery go? The simplest and easiest will involve putting it in a front shopping basket. careful wiring can use a frame battery. It is least advised to fit a pannier mounted battery in this case as it is a harder job to place the battery in a worse position than on the frame in terms of weight distribution.

In most cases, you will not want a Pedal Assist System (PAS) but if you do this requires opening the bottom bracket to fit the sensors. You’ll need a bottom bracket removal tool and a crank pull. Many kits with a PAS sensor will supply these, but it may help to buy your own. This requires a lot more care and skill than the throttle-only system.

The Build

I’ve done minor bike maintenance like changing tires and chains, but nothing quite as extensive as this. I was most concerned with taking apart the bottom bracket where the new mid-drive would sit.

My worries were completely unfounded. In fact, I was surprised at just how easy the build was. The most technical part was soldering together a couple of wires. With proper planning, even a novice can install this kit in two hours.

From left to right: Disassembling the bottom bracket, installing the battery mount and connecting everything up

Basic Steps

• Remove the bottom bracket. Note that you’ll need special tools for this.
• Install the mid-drive motor unit.
• Install the battery pack mount and battery.
• Install the electronics including the speed sensor on the back wheel, the display unit and throttle on the handlebars.
• Connect all of the electronics.

Optional: Because the bike was full suspension, I recalibrated the rear shock to accommodate the increased weight.

Cost: The Ebike ended up costing about 450,600. The bike was 400 while the Ebike kit was 1100. The toolkit, chain and other supplies ran the bill up another 100. While 1600 is a lot of money, this bike is far better than off-the-shelf models that cost twice as much. Also, have you seen what a car costs lately?

The Ride

The Bafang mid-drive has two different types of electric assistance; pedal assist and throttle. The pedal assist detects when you are pedaling and fires up the motor, giving you a boost. My version of the kit came with five different levels, 5 being the fastest. The kit also has a throttle that can be used similar to a motorcycle. You can also program the kit through an optional cable. For example, if you don’t want to use the pedal assist, you can reprogram the unit to eliminate it and just rely on the throttle.

When you take your new Ebike on its maiden voyage, brace yourself and be careful! You’ll feel like superman the first time you turn the pedals and the pedal assist kicks in. Prepare yourself to get around town at a speed much faster than you’ve become accustomed. I was also pleasantly surprised to find that the motor is quiet and smooth. When I showed the bike to friends, most didn’t even realize it was an Ebike.

The first big ride was a 16 mile trip to Lafayette, CO. The ride would have taken me at least 75 minutes on a conventional bike. Despite a stiff headwind, rolling hills, and stoplights that didn’t go my way, I completed it in 45. Because it was my first ride, I was conservative. If I would have used the throttle to enhance the pedal assist, I would have been there much faster.

Why should you ride an Ebike?

Before I rode my new Ebike, I was worried that it might make me lazy. Would I just lay on the throttle and coast around everywhere with minimal (or no) muscle effort? The answer is a decisive No. When I’m on the Ebike, I find myself pedaling as hard as I normally do. The difference is that I get everywhere much faster. With that in mind, I would recommend an Ebike for two reasons:

Kill your Excuses: A 20 minute trip to Home Depot becomes a 10 minute trip on an Ebike. No more of the “I don’t have time to bike” excuse. You’ll get to most places at a pace similar to what you’d do in the old car. Only, you’ll be in the open air. What is better than that?

You’ll expand the distances you’re willing to bike: A couple weekends ago, I went to visit a friend in a town 20 miles away. With an Ebike, a 40 mile round-trip commute is no big deal.

It all comes back to time. I work full-time and so does my wife. We also have two children. Time is precious. The Ebike allows me to spend more time on a bike and less time in the car. I’m getting exercise and enjoying the Great Outdoors, free from that old metal cage. It is good.

Thanks for sharing, Mr. 1500 ! I don’t have space for any more bikes, but if I were in the market, this would be my first choice of e-bike given today’s parts scene.

Very Nice…

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For those of us folks with limited attention spans, maybe lack of building skills, but still desire an electric mountain bike, how highly do you recommend the Prodeco? Or are there any others that catch your eye?

I’ve been researching e-bikes pretty extensively recently and it seems like this kit is the best option for now. All the commercially available, fully assembled e-bikes seem to be under-powered, overpriced, or both. If you’re serious about getting an e-bike, I say take a chance and try a kit. You might just learn something new, and if you have any issues or don’t want to buy the special tools required, your local bike shop would probably help you assemble it for next to nothing.

I bought a 1st gen Prodeco Genesis used a couple weeks ago. This seems like a good sturdy bike. I was immediately able to double my mileage from 8 miles in 1 day on my old worn out Mongoose, to 16 miles in 1 day on this. This review isn’t going to be reflective of the newer models and unworn batteries. I have a 24V battery. I believe motor is 200 or 250w. I consider this sort of a boost. It provides no assistance once I get up to speed. If going up hill, I am tired and close to stopped\, I can turn the throttle and get going again. I’m happy with this purchase to the extent that it convinced me that I could use a bike as transportation. Otherwise, Averaging under 10 miles an hour doesn’t do it for me when this makes my commute and hour both ways. Been a good learning experience. – I’m debating upgrading this to something aftermarket such as mentioned here. Because of the weight and the outcome of scrapping what I got, I’m uncertain of doing that. I might just sell this and look for a good bike like the one mentioned here. Anyone know enough about these to comment? pros: Can bike 8.5 miles each way to work. (I have a gym near my work to shower). Extends my mileage some gives me a little boost at the beginning of takeoff. cons: Is not fast powerful battery without limiter would be a huge benefit.

I have a Trek 4900 alpha and I went with a front hub motor. It is a 48v, 1000 watt Champion from Walmart and it works great. My battery is a Lithium 48v, 21 amp, 1000 watt unit shipped from China. I can do 38 mph on flat ground, and the system has a range of 38 miles on full charge. It’s the best bike I’ve ever owned!

My mom has a Prodeco! She slowed down on exercising because of an ankle injury a number of years back, but the bike has got her outside and moving again. Her and my dad live up a MONSTER hill (think Big Sur style mountain) and the bike has powered her up it for 4 years. I was skeptical when I first saw it, but have become the biggest fan. Really opened up a lot of fun for her and my dad. (My only thing with Prodeco is they got jipped in my opinion on the name when Pedego hit the scene.) Not as rad as a DIY one, but it has been a solid, lasting machine. Hope that helps a bit with the search, Jimmy!

Hi Jimmy, I just had a 23 year-old mountain bike that was given to me by my brother converted locally. 11.6 Amps and a 1000 Watt motor. I’ve gotten it up to 30 mph with furious pedaling (faster possible if you have bigger cogs) and it’ll easily do 25 on flats. Has pedal assist and a throttle. My 4.5 mile hilly commute to work now takes the same amount of time on my bike (less in the evening) as my car. Long story long, I highly recommend seeing if any local shops will do a conversion for you. Just find a donor bike and drop it off and get ready to have a lot of fun! Total cost (bike was free) was 450,150 installed. You simply won’t find factory e-bikes that will compete on price and doing a conversion really allows you to customize to your needs.