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Twist Go Magazine. July/August 2017 (Digital Subscription)

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DOWNTOWN TO X-TOWN. A maxi scooter reinvention.





Mash Roadstar 50

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Brixton BX 125

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Zero DSR ZF13.0

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Power To The People

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Publisher : Mortons Category : Automotive Language : English Frequency : Bi-Monthly Twist Go is a two-wheeled magazine that keeps pace with modern times, covering all that is happening on the modern auto scooter and light motorcycle circuit. Fresh, feisty and aimed at the fast moving world of the youthful bike scooter rider. Twist Go Magazine know that scooters remain the coolest. and most practical. form of urban transport, and they also sample geared mopeds, learner legal motorbikes, quads, and minimotos! Twist Go Magazine is the ultimate in modern urban transport.

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Best electric hybrid bikes

Like a non-assisted hybrid bike, electric hybrid bikes feature an upright riding position, flat bars and stable handling. They’re often the least expensive entry point into ebikes.

With lots of mounting points for accessories such as pannier bags and mudguards, electric hybrids are great if you’re planning to commute to work by bike, ride around town or want to go for leisurely rides on bike trails or through parks.

Electric hybrid bikes can be quite heavy because they tend to use less sophisticated motor systems and the bikes are built for robustness. This is worth bearing in mind if you need to carry them up stairs.

Below is a selection of four of the very best electric hybrid bikes as tested by our senior road technical editor, Warren Rossiter. For more recommendations, check out our full round-up of the best electric hybrid bikes.

Specialized Turbo Vado SL 4.0

  • £2,600 / €2,999 / 3,500 as tested
  • Pros: Well-tuned power delivery; low weight
  • Cons: Lower-torque motor means you have to put in more work

Specialized makes two electric hybrid bike ranges. Whereas the standard Turbo Vado is a heavy-duty ebike, the Vado SL uses a less powerful motor with 35Nm of torque. This reduces the weight to under 15kg, but the flip side is that you have less assistance than with the Turbo Vado, which could be a problem on hills.

The other advantage of the lower output is clean looks, with the concealed battery giving a sporty appearance. Specialized fits lights to all models and includes mudguards and a luggage rack on pricier models.

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Canyon Pathlite:ON 5

  • £2,499 / €2,699, as tested
  • Pros: Great handling and confident off-road
  • Cons: Heavy versus its rivals

The Canyon Pathlite:ON 5 is a powerful electric hybrid bike that handles and rides commendably. Our testing found the Canyon’s 100km claimed range to be true, but there’s no denying the bike is heavy at 23.5kg.

Where the Pathlite:ON 5 truly stands out is off the tarmac, where it rivals electric mountain bikes with confidence-inspiring chunky tyres and a shock-absorbing suspension fork.

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Tern Quick Haul P9

  • £3,100 / 3,299 / AU4995 as tested
  • Pros: Great fun to ride and versatile
  • Cons: Official add-ons are fairly pricey

The Tern Quick Haul P9 looks like a cargo bike at first glance, but its compact design means it isn’t much longer than a typical electric hybrid.

With the option to fit a huge array of useful add-on accessories both front and back, our tester described the Quick Haul P9 as a “genuinely viable car replacement”.

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Best electric folding bikes

Commuters who travel by public transport or are short on space are catered for too. Oliver Woodman / Immediate Media

If you want to cycle to work or are just pressed for space to store your ride, a compact electric folding bike could be the answer.

Folding ebikes often have the battery hidden in their frames, or they may come with a removable battery to make carrying them on and off public transport a bit easier.

A removable battery also means you can take it somewhere where it’s easier to charge (at your desk, for example, if you use the bike to ride to work).

But the extra weight of the motor and battery means carrying a folding ebike on and off public transport, and up and down stairs, will be harder. The available range can be quite limited in some models too.

For more product recommendations, check out our round-up of the best folding electric bikes.

Brompton Electric

The Brompton Electric adds a front-hub motor to the iconic folder. Russell Burton / Immediate Media

  • £2,725 as tested
  • Pros: Very compact fold; smooth power delivery
  • Cons: Quite heavy; two pieces to carry

A front-hub motor adds electric power to the classic Brompton folding bike, giving you a range of around 40km. The battery sits in a separate pack, which can be removed from the bike for carrying.

Since we tested the Brompton Electric, the standard bike has been redesignated the C Line Explore. It’s been joined by the P Line, which uses lighter frame materials and components to chop almost 2kg off the C Line’s 17.4kg claimed weight.

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GoCycle G4

  • £3,999 as tested
  • Pros: Larger wheels ride more smoothly; stylish design
  • Cons: Expensive; doesn’t fold as small as some ebikes

While pricey, the GoCycle G4 is a folder, commuter and electric bike in one. The ride and handling are far more assured than most folding bikes on- and off-road, thanks to the meaty tyres and larger wheels.

The bike folds in half at its centre, making it easier to roll than to carry and the removable battery in the front of the frame is accessed via the fold. At over 17kg, it’s quite heavy though.

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MiRider One GB3

The GB3 is an upgrade on the original MiRider One, with an accompanying price rise. David Caudery / Our Media

  • £2,495 as tested
  • Pros: Very compact
  • Cons: Price has increased significantly from the original bike

The MiRider One GB3 is an upgrade from the original model we tested a few years ago. Unfortunately, that’s resulted in a significant price hike, but the ebike is still a compact, nippy city commuter.

The belt drive is cleaner and lower-maintenance than a chain, there’s good adjustability, and built-in rear suspension and wide tyres add comfort.

The GB3 design has three speeds, adding flexibility over the singlespeed predecessor, and you can change gear while stationary. We achieved a range of up to 50km.

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Best electric mountain bikes

Electric mountain bikes can be great on the climbs, but handling on the descents can take a bit of getting used to. Ian Linton

An electric mountain bike will get you to the top quicker, particularly on technical, steeper climbs, and with more energy to enjoy the descents. Plus, getting up the ups more easily will give you extra range to explore further.

Recent improvements in eMTB performance mean handling is approaching that of the best mountain bikes without a motor, providing heaps of flat-out riding fun.

But, nevertheless, the extra weight can make handling more tricky on particularly technical sections, so it’s a good idea to ease off a bit until you’ve got the feel of the bike

This is a small selection of the best electric mountain bikes we have tested, as selected by our expert team of mountain bike tech editors, Alex Evans, Robin Weaver and Tom Marvin.

Focus JAM2 SL 9.9

  • £7,499/€8,499/AU14,499 as tested
  • Pros: Powerful and efficient motor; high levels of performance
  • Cons: Inadequate tyres specced; ride remote feels cheap

The Focus JAM2 SL 9.9 is on the lightweight end of the electric bike spectrum, using Fazua’s Ride 60 motor, which provides the bike with 60Nm of torque.

The motor is very frugal, being one of the best for power consumption, with the 430Wh battery lasting longer than other bikes we’ve tested.

Focus has given the JAM2 SL an adjustable geometry, with the frame featuring two flip chips in the linkage and the chainstays enabling the bike to be set up longer, lower and slacker.

While the bike only features 150mm of rear travel, we found it spanned both trail and enduro riding well, which added to enjoyment on gnarlier trails.

The only let down was the slightly cheap-feeling Fazua remote and underwhelming lightweight tyre choice.

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Orbea Wild M-Team

The Orbea Wild M-Team impressed us with its modern geometry and powertrain. Olly Bowman / Our Media

  • £9,207/9,844/€9,727/AU17,429 as tested
  • Pros: Bosch motor and battery combo performs well; feels capable on all trails
  • Cons: Priced at the top end of the market

Winning our Electric Mountain Bike of the Year award for 2023, the Orbea Wild M-Team impresses with a balanced geometry that feels dominant whether the trail is going up or down.

The Fox Factory 38 fork features 170mm of travel, while the 160mm of rear travel is controlled by a Fox X2 Factory shock that does a great job of gobbling up rough terrain and finding grip on technical sections.

The punchy nature of Bosch’s Performance Line CX motor gives the bike great climbing ability, with assistance feeling constant up until the cut-off speed.

Alongside the great spec list, Orbea has fitted the bike with downhill casing tyres, which means you can push the Wild M-Team to the extremes of it’s geometry with little worry.

What is power?

This is easier. Power is money, and time is money, so power is… time.

Jokes aside, power is defined as energy transfer per unit of time. Power in metric units is defined as the “watt”, which is defined as one “joule” of energy per second.

Power is kind of bandied around in the vehicle world, and generally used to mean a “feeling”. But two bikes with similar power specs can respond extremely differently to a twist of the throttle.

That’s why it’s possible to do wheelies and burnouts on a Honda Grom, which has a paltry 7 kW (9 HP) of power, and do the same things on motorcycles with 10-20 times that figure.

Basically, you can’t just take a power spec and know what it means for how a motorcycle behaves. Yes, more power definitely usually correlates to more acceleration and more fasterness, but there’s more to it!

To start with, think about the definition: Power is defined as energy transfer per time. But exactly what are you transferring energy into?

In a kettle, you transfer power into heat (of the water). In a light, you transfer power into light (and heat). But what about in a vehicle — where does the energy go?

The energy of a moving motorcycle is kinetic energy. The basic way a motorcycle works is it takes potential energy (from the fuel or battery) and converts it to kinetic energy. That kinetic energy is stored in the forward movement of the motorcycle and the rotational movements of the wheels and other moving parts.

The formula for kinetic energy is: K.E. = ½ m v 2

This has some interesting consequences.

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Firstly, the heavier the object, the more energy you need to get it moving the same speed. So if your bike rider is 1000 lb (say on a fully loaded Gold Wing), you need twice the energy to get it to highway speed, than say on a 500 lb bike rider (say on a race bike with a small rider).

Secondly, the energy in a moving vehicle is proportional to the square of the speed.

  • An object going twice the speed has four times the kinetic energy. So if it takes X energy to get something to 30 mph, it takes another 3X the energy to get to 60 mph.
  • A bike (or car or whatever) going 100 mph has roughly twice the energy in it of one going 70 mph.

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That’s the main reason that acceleration slows. You need to pour in increasingly more energy to get something to go incrementally faster. This is true even in a world with no resistance or friction.

The second reason acceleration slows — outside a perfect physical system — is because of resistance.

In a perfect physical system (a vacuum with no friction), once you put energy into an object and it starts moving, it’ll keep moving forever. For example, once a probe is sent off into space to explore other planets, it doesn’t need more energy to keep boing, because nothing is slowing it down.

That’s why in movies (and in real life, though I haven’t had the pleasure) when a space craft is in a vacuum in space, it shuts off the engines and keeps going. There’s no friction to slow it down.

So why do you need to keep burning petrol (or using battery charge if you’re on an electric) just to keep going forward at the same speed? The answer is to overcome friction forces.

If you let go of the throttle, the following friction forces will slow you down:

  • Air (which you may know as air resistance or drag)
  • Tyres (a.k.a. “tires”) against the ground
  • Friction in the moving parts of the motorcycle — axels, drivetrain, engine

So like how with torque you can change the impact of torque by changing drive ratios and gearing, with power you can change the impact of power by using

  • A more aerodynamic body (fairings) — this is the biggest factor
  • Low-friction tyres (which are bad for cornering or acceleration, but good for top speed)
  • Lower friction engine components (hard to do)

Above low suburban speeds, the friction of air (drag/air resistance) is by far the biggest source of friction. So to get more leverage out of engine power, making your machine more aerodynamic is your biggest leverage factor. That’s why vehicles that beat land speed records look like this:

Drag increases exponentially as you get faster. According to the drag equation:

Drag force increases in proportion to the square of velocity.

Since the power equation says that P = F v (force times velocity), the power needed to overcome drag is proportional to the cube of velocity.

Common units of power: What are bhp, HP, PS, CV, Ch, and kW?

When reading motorcycle specs, we often see many of these units.

There are three main units of power in modern vehicle stats.

Firstly, there’s bhp or brake horsepower, which is what we conventionally call imperial horsepower. This is an imperial unit used only in North America (mostly the US; Canada is technically metric, but culturally there’s some overlap).

Brake horsepower is a technical definition of 33000 lbf-ft/min. It translates to 178.1074 calories per second of energy.

1 bhp ≈ 745.700 Watts or about 0.75 of a kW. As a shortcut I say 100 bhp 75 kW.

Secondly, there’s “metric” horsepower.

You see metric horsepower quotes in mostly European spec sheets (from Ducati, BMW, etc.). The numbers look very similar, so many don’t know the difference. And in documentation from Europe in English, they’re often described as just “horsepower”.

Technically, metric horsepower is defined as the power to raise a mass of 75 kg against the Earth’s gravitational force over a distance of one metre in one second.

This ends up being about 735.5 W, slightly less than one bhp.

So 100 bhp / imperial horsepower = 101.4 metric horsepower. And 100 metric horsepower is about 98.6 bhp.

Metric horsepower is commonly quoted as:

  • Just “HP” in European documents (e.g. by Japanese or European manufacturers, but publishing in Europe)
  • CV in Italian or Spanish — short for cavalli vapore or caballos vapor, which means “horse steam”. The term dates back to the time of steam engines.
  • PS in German — short for Pferdestärke, or “horse power”
  • ch in French — short for chevaux, “horses”
  • Л.С. in Russia — short for лошадиная сила, “horse power”

All those units of metric horsepower are the same.

Finally, there’s kW or kilowatts. You see this most often in the Asia/Pacific region (Japan, Australia, New Zealand, Singapore, China, etc.).

The Watt has a much simpler technical definition: one joule of energy per second.

Fundamentals: Power = Torque x RPM (x a constant)

Anyone who has seen a dyno chart will note that torque stays roughly flat, while RPM goes up.

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See this dyno chart for example:

In the above chart, torque does increase, but it’s relatively flat compared to the power curve.

The reason for that is the basic power formula: P = F v, Power = force x velocity. Applied to rotating objects (angular motion), this becomes P = T v.

So you multiply torque by rotating speed to get to power. Of course they’re all in different units, so you need some constants for conversion between units.

  • Metric: Power (kW) = Torque (Nm) x speed (rpm) / 9549
  • Imperial: Power (HP) = Torque (ft-lb) x speed (rpm) / 5252

For example, if I say my bike makes 50 Nm at 3000 rpm, then you can know that this translates to 50 x 3000 / 9.5488 = 15.7 kW of power.

Or if I make the same claim in imperial units, and say it makes 37 ft-lb, then you can say 37 x 3000 / 5252 = 21 HP.

If you know your quick shortcut conversions between metric and imperial units (in this case that kW is about 3/4 of HP), then you’d know those both look about right.

This isn’t peak power by the way. It’s just how much power is being generated at that point. It’d be one point on a curve.

Torque, Horsepower, and What a Bike is Like to Ride

There’s a reason that Harley-Davidson rarely quotes power figures, and usually only quotes torque figures: because torque often tells you more of the story — if you make certain assumptions.

The reason torque tells you more of the story is that if you assume a few things, torque translates to “pulling power below high speeds”. Let me justify this.

Here are the assumptions to make:

  • Assume a fairly “normal” gearing ratio on the bike, no matter the drivetrain, including front and rear sprockets, gear ratios, and wheel sizes.
  • Assume a “normal” RPM range. For any given size or class of engine, this is also a safe assumption (e.g. big bore bikes rev less, small bore bikes rev higher, assuming same number of cylinders)
  • Maybe even assume all the bikes are V-twins (which they mostly are for cruisers, which Harley-Davidson riders are mostly shopping for)

So with those assumptions, for most road bikes, you have to operate in the first four gears until you’re on the highway, when you can relax in fifth or sixth gear.

If you assume those things, and then I tell you “This V-twin road bike makes a peak of 120 ft-lb, whereas this V-twin cruiser makes a peak of 80 ft-lb”, you know that the 120 ft-lb one is going to be more arm-wrenching when you crack the throttle.

The assumptions are a little looser when you compare different engine sizes or designs. If I say “This bike has 150 Nm peak torque” and “this bike has 100 Nm of peak torque”, and the first is a liquid-cooled inline-four and the second is a V-twin… it’s still comparable if they’re both big-bore road bikes.

This is the case because big-bore road bikes (not track-oriented sport bikes, not small capacity bikes) are tuned to produce a wide spread of torque across a range of RPMs. So if you assume that two very different designed engines are both aiming for a wide RPM range for road use, then you can compare peak torque figures with reasonable accuracy.

Let’s look at those torque curves to understand more. In some buyers guides, I compare torque of sport bikes (more track-oriented machines) and roadsters (more road-oriented bikes).

Have a look at this below chart comparing the torque curves of the 847cc CP3 engine (from the previous generation MT-09/Tracer 900/XSR900), and that of a late-model Yamaha YZF-R1:

The annotations tell the story. But basically — the MT-09 is a road bike, and starts plateauing after 8K rpm. The R1, meanwhile, just gets started around there.

Where you can’t compare peak torque is comparing a road bike to a superbike. It just doesn’t make sense.

For example, The Harley-Davidson Iron 1200 makes peak torque of 100 Nm (73 ft-lb) at 3,500 rpm… but runs out of puff between 4-5K, when you should shift (if not before then). Many sport bikes (like Ducatis) are flat-out unpleasant under 3K rpm.

Comparing torque or even power of two very different classes of bikes doesn’t tell you anywhere near enough to know what they’re like to ride.

Motorcycle, Scooter or Moped

Motorcycle vary dramatically. Just like buying a car, you will likely have options of buying extra accessories as well.

You’ll be kitting yourself out with the protective gear, a helmet and not forgetting insurance and breakdown cover. You need to make sure you’ve got a set of wheels that’s suitable for your first few months of riding.

Every biker is different but take a look at what the UK biking nation looks like…

What’s the difference?

Motorcycle, Moped or Scooter – now there’s always lots of questions when it comes to buying your first set of wheels, but you must remember to get a machine you know you can handle. There’s no point saving up all your pennies to blow on the brand new Kawasaki Ninja H2R when it’s unlikely you’ll be able to handle it; with a great bike comes great responsibility.

Motorcycles are classically known for their high capacity engines and naked frame structure. Over time different styles of motorcycles have become available on the market; sports, adventure, classic and more! It’s all really down to preference on what style of motorcycle you choose, and mainly what you’ll be using it for – commuting or leisure.

Popular first motorbikes

Check out our list of popular bikes for new riders – whether you want sport, leisure or just something to do your daily commute on, you’ll be able to find the perfect bike in your price range.

Cost: £3,500 (New) Cost: £1,500 (Second Hand)

One of the most versatile beginner motorcycles on the market. The GS500F has a sporty profile with full fairing and sleek bodywork. In terms of power, the Suzuki GS500F 487cc parallel twin cranks out just over 51hp.

Cost: £4,500 (New) Cost: £2,000 (Second Hand)

See yourself as the next Rossi taking on the track on a stylish sports bike? Well, the FZ6R is a great bike for a beginner track ride with smooth power, accommodating seat height and a fuel-injected 600cc include-four engine cranking out 66.5hp.

The FZ6R is the perfect stepping stone to train and ride with.

Honda CBR 250R. Credit: Honda

Cost: £3,500 (New) Cost: £1,950 (Second hand)

The CBR250 is everything you need in your first set of wheels. It’s perfect for commuting in traffic or just something to spend your weekends riding. Don’t be fooled, this Honda is easy to ride but can go faster than you think but still extremely economical to run.

Cost: £4,000 (New) Cost: £2,500 (Second Hand)

KTM bikes are getting more and more popular with new riders. The Duke is in the 200cc market with 25bhp but it still looks like a big bike to play with. With the aggressive orange paintwork and sharp corners, the engine is tight and ultra-tidy; perfect for hitting the track and those long windy roads.

Kawasaki Ninja 300. Credit: Kawasaki

Cost: £4,500 (New) Cost:£3,000 (Second Hand)

Kawasaki motorcycles are known for their power and sleek style. If you’ve got your heart set on a Kawasaki model as your first ride then check out the Ninja 300, which you can find cheaper on second hand. With a powerful engine and an aggressive styling, it’s great for those riders who want to move up to a full-on sports bike.


The main difference between a moped and scooter is a scooter has a step through frame allowing the rider to have theirs legs in front with their feet in a foot well. Scooters host an engine capacity of 125cc, although more modern scooters can come with high engine capacity and reach speeds of 100mph.

Popular first scooters

Buying your first scooter can be quite the challenge, especially if you’ve only just passed your CBT and need to stick to the new licence requirements. Check out our list below of the best scooters for new riders….

Vespa PX125 Cost: £3,000 (New) Cost:£2,500 (Second Hand)

Vespa’s are known to be reliable, Smart and easy-use scooters. This PX models is a simple mode of transport that will get you from A to B but in style.

Honda SH125i

Honda SH125i. Credit: Honda

Cost: £3,000 (New) Cost: £2,000 (Second Hand)

Fitted with bigger wheels than your standard scooter, the Honda SH125i is fitted with ABS brakes too. It’s not an ultra-cool looking scooter like your Vespa’s and Lambretta’s but it runs economically and is saving you money with each ride.

Yamaha Aerox

Yamaha Aerox. Credit: Yamaha

Cost: £3,000 (New) Cost: £1,499 (Second Hand)

Aerox is modelled to be sports scooter, fitted with a 101cc 2-stroke engine that gives you the boost you need to whizz around town.

Cost: £2,500 (New) Cost: £1,199 (Second Hand)

If the main purpose for getting a bike is for commuting then the Fly is perfect for you. A very comfortable and reliable machine that’s easy to ride.

Lambretta LN125. Credit: Lambretta

Cost: £2,500 (New) Cost: £1,295 (Second Hand)

Lambretta sure know how to make the perfect scooter. LN125 is versatile and easy to ride making it the perfect scooter for both commuting and leisure. It can be easily fitted with a luggage rack and top box if you’re planning a trip.

Two-stroke vs. four-stroke

Two-stroke engines powered the large majority of Scooters until recently. In simple terms, the difference between a two-stroke and four-stroke is the number movements (strokes) of the piston up and down, per turn of the crankshaft, to complete a power cycle.

Part of the appeal of the two-stroke engine is that of a simple design requiring very few moving parts compared to a four-stroke engine, therefore it’s cheap to produce as well as simple and cost efficient to maintain. The two-stroke also produces a higher output per CC than a four-stroke, a useful advantage for vehicles with low capacity engines. The simple design of the two-stroke engine has meant that it has been the engine type of choice for Scooters for many decades.

The disadvantage of the two-stroke is the pollution it emits, small two-stroke engines cannot be lubricated by oil contained within the sump and crankcase: the space in the crankcase is used to pump both fuel and air into the cylinder. Oil therefore has to be mixed with petrol to lubricate the moving internal parts; namely the crankshaft and the piston. The burning of this oil in the combustion chamber leads to high emissions emitting a blue smoke, for many years two-strokes have been dubbed ‘stinkers’ by motorcyclists for this very reason.

Over the years emission legislations have ever tightened leading motorcycle manufacturers to switch to four-stroke engines. Advances in technology have kept the two-stroke alive in the smaller capacity segment of the motorcycle market where Scooters are ripe. However advances in technology have also brought about reductions in manufacturing costs that are now bridging the gap between the two engine types. The case for the four-stroke powering lower capacity motorcycles, especially Scooters is stacking up. In the larger capacity segment of the scooter market the four-stroke engines dominate, offering refinement, durability and reliability.

Licence Types

The large majority of Scooters are between 50cc and 125cc meaning that they are one of the most accessible types of motorcycles across all bike licence types, hence their popularity.

Scooters up to 49cc (aka Moped) can be ridden by those aged from 16 with a Provisional Licence that have completed Compulsory Basic Training (CBT) as long as the Moped is restricted to 28mph and L-plates are displayed. 16 year olds have a further option to take a theory test, if passed an AM Licence will be awarded and the rider will not need to display L-plates.

Scooters over 49cc and up to 125cc can be ridden by riders from the age of 17 who have a Provisional Licence and valid CBT. Riders aged 17 or over also have the choice of passing a theory test to obtain an A1 Licence; when passed L-plates do not need to be displayed and riders can carry a pillion passenger.

Larger capacity Scooters are becoming ever popular with riders who have passed the A2 Licence (the first step in obtaining a Full ‘Category A’ Licence, allowing motorcycles to be ridden with a power output of up to 46.6 bhp) as well as with riders who have a full ‘Cat A’ licence. Larger capacity Scooters offer all of the advantages and practicality found with that of lower capacity Scooter, but with the speed and refinement to deal with longer journeys.

CC and Engine Configuration

As the large majority of scooters have very small engines (the majority being 50cc and 125cc) the most common engine configuration is a single cylinder meaning that it has just one piston and cylinder.

Scooters do however come in many different shapes and sizes, it is common for larger engined Scooters to feature twin cylinder engines. Mid-sized scooters tend to have parallel twin (also referred to as ‘in-line twin’) engines, ‘parallel’ denotes the layout of the cylinders i.e. next to one another.

It is becoming increasingly popular for large sized scooters to have V-Twin engines (also referred to as ‘V2) the ‘V’ denotes the arrangement of the cylinders in a V configuration.

How can BeMoto protect your Moped or Scooter?

Here at BeMoto we recognise that not all Mopeds and Scooters are purchased to get from A to B; they can just as easily be the owners’ pride and joy, an appreciating classic, a show winner. The Scooter market is just as broad and diverse as any other motorcycle segment.

BeMoto offer tailored Scooter Insurance that is right for you.

Get a quote online or call us on 01733 907000 to speak to a bike specialist who understands your Scooter and what it means to you.

Calls are recorded for our joint protection

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