Front Hub Vs Rear Hub Motor Ebike: Pros and Cons. Hub motors for bicycles

Front Hub Vs Rear Hub Motor Ebike: Pros and Cons

Ebike hub motors can be installed in either the front or the rear wheel. Both motor placements have their own advantages and disadvantages. To help you decide, this guide explains the differences between front hub and rear hub motors. I’ll also outline the pros and cons of riding a front hub vs rear hub motor ebike.

In this guide, we’ll cover ride quality, traction, maintenance, weight distribution, handling, parts compatibility, and more. We’ll also talk a bit about mid-drive ebikes and different power delivery systems including pedal assist and throttles. Hopefully, this guide helps you choose the best hub motor placement, whether you’re buying a new ebike or installing a hub motor ebike conversion kit on your existing bike.

What is a Hub Motor?

Hub motor ebikes have an electric motor built into one of the hubs. The hub motor takes the place of a standard hub. The motor directly powers the wheel it’s built into. This drives the bike forward.

In most cases, the hub motor is installed in the rear wheel but it can also be installed in the front. A hub motor is completely separate from the bike’s drivetrain. It is not affected by shifting the bike’s gears.

Hub motors turn electricity into propulsion. Electricity is stored in the bike’s battery. Electric current runs from the battery to the hub. In the hub, the current runs through a series of wires that are tightly coiled. The wires are fixed in place, firmly attached to the axle. This is called the stator.

These coiled wires sit between the poles of a ring-shaped magnet. This is called the rotor. The ring-shaped magnet freely rotates around the coiled wires with the help of hub bearings. The magnet is attached to the hub shell. The spokes attach to the shell and the rim attaches to the spokes.

When an electric current is run through the coiled wires, the magnet rotates around the wires. This force propels the bike forward. For more in-depth info, check out this detailed guide about how hub motors work.

There are two types of hub motors: direct drive and geared. Direct drive hub motor ebikes have a large electric motor that is designed to spin at the ideal RPM for bicycles. The motor has no moving parts other than the hub bearings. These motors are heavy and reliable. They do produce a bit of resistance while coasting. This can reduce efficiency.

front, rear, motor, ebike

Geared hub motors use a smaller motor that runs much faster. The motor has planetary gears inside that reduce the RPM to the ideal speed for a bicycle. The gears allow a smaller and lighter motor to produce sufficient torque and speed. The smaller motor is more energy efficient. The drawback is that the gears increase complexity and reduce reliability somewhat. Geared motors produce less resistance, which increases efficiency.

Most hub motor ebikes have a pedal assist power delivery system. When you pedal, the motor engages automatically. Different sensor systems are used including cadence sensors and torque sensors. Cadence sensor based pedal assist is the most common.

Cadence sensors measure if you’re pedaling with a series of magnets that pass by a sensor. Some models measure your pedaling speed as well. When you start pedaling, the cadence sensor sends a signal to the bike’s control unit or computer. The control unit then turns the motor on and supplies power to the wheel to drive you forward. When you stop pedaling, the cadence sensor signals the motor to cut off. The ebike stops producing power.

Hub motors supply a constant level of power when you pedal. Many models allow you to adjust the level of pedal assist. There may be 3-5 settings to choose from. On the lower setting, the motor provides less assist. On the higher setting, the motor provides more assist. You change the level of assist with a handlebar-mounted display.

Some models can adjust the power automatically based on your pedaling speed or cadence. The sensor measures your pedaling speed. Once you reach a certain predefined threshold, the power reduces. Once you fall below that threshold cadence, the power increases again.

Higher-end hub drive ebikes come with torque sensors. These use a precision strain gauge to measure your pedaling power. The sensor sends this information to the control unit, which controls how much power the motor supplies. The motor’s power automatically increases or decreases depending on how much power you supply to the pedals. For more info, check out my guide to torque vs cadence sensor pedal assist.

Many hub motor ebikes also have a throttle mounted to the handlebars that you operate with your hand to control the motor speed. The throttle can be a twist grip, thumb lever, or a simple on/off button. When you use the throttle, you don’t have to pedal. The bike rides like a motorcycle or scooter. The throttle wires transmit the throttle information to the bike’s computer. For more info, check out my guide to pedal assist vs throttle controlled ebikes.

What’s the Difference Between Front and Rear Hub Motors?

This is pretty self-explanatory. An ebike with a front hub motor has the motor built into the front wheel. An ebike with a rear hub motor has the wheel built into the rear wheel.

Front and rear hub motors work the same way. They use the same technology. In some cases, they are interchangeable, as long as they are compatible with your bike’s frame.

Generally, front hub motors are physically smaller than rear hub motors. They need to be slightly smaller because front hubs have narrower dropout spacing. They also tend to be less powerful. Rear hub motors tend to be larger and more powerful.

The biggest difference between front and rear hub motors is that rear hub motors are designed to fit a cassette or freewheel. They have either threads to attach a freewheel or a freehub body. Most rear hub motors are designed to fit a standard threaded freewheel.

Front Hub Motor Pros and Cons

Pros

  • Better weight distribution- The weight of the motor and battery are divided between the front and rear axles.
  • Flat tires are easier to repair-Front flats are less common than rear flats.
  • Lighter- Front hub motors weigh 2-5 pounds less than rear hub motors.
  • drivetrain options- You can use an internal gear hub, 1X gearing, or belt drive.
  • Compatibility- If you’re converting your bike, you don’t have to worry about gearing compatibility.
  • Easy installation- If you’re converting your bike, it’s easier to install a front hub motor.

Cons

  • Poor traction- The front wheel can lose grip and spin out easily during acceleration.
  • Harsher ride- The weight of the motor makes the front of the bike drop faster and harder when you hit a bump.
  • Poor handling- The weight of the motor makes it harder to turn the handlebars quickly and precisely.
  • Less durable- The motor can put additional stress on the fork arms. Over time, they can fatigue and fail.
  • Fewer ebike options- Front hub drive ebikes are less common.
  • Less stealthy- Front hub motors are more visible.

Rear Hub Motor Pros and Cons

Pros

  • Better traction- The extra weight of the motor increases friction between the tire and the ground.
  • Smoother ride- Many rear hub drive ebikes have fork suspension or full suspension to smooth out the ride.
  • Better handling- Rear hub drive ebikes are easier to steer at low speeds.
  • Durability- Rear dropouts are stronger. They can handle the torque of the motor without fatiguing and failing.
  • ebike options- Most ebikes have a rear hub motor.
  • Looks- Rear hub motors are more stealthy. They can be hidden by the freewheel and disc brake rotor.

Cons

  • Poor weight distribution- All of the weight is on the back of the bike.
  • Flats are harder to repair- You need to disconnect the motor and deal with the heavy weight of the motor.
  • Heavier- Rear hub motors usually weigh 7-10 pounds.
  • Fewer drivetrain options- You have to use a cassette or freewheel and chain drivetrain.
  • Compatibility can be an issue- If you’re installing a hub motor, you need to make sure it’s compatible with your gearing.

Front Vs Rear Hub Motor Ebikes

There are benefits and drawbacks to having the motor in the front and in the rear. You’ll have to make some compromises. In this section, I’ll outline the main things to consider when deciding on your ebike hub motor placement.

Weight Distribution

The weight of the motor and battery affect the handling of your ebike. Ideally, you want the weight to be distributed 50/50 between the front and rear axles. You don’t want all of the weight on one end of the bike or the bike will feel unbalanced while you ride.

Front hub motors distribute weight better. This is because most of the bike’s weight naturally sits near the rear. The battery is usually mounted toward the center or rear of the bike. Most of the rider’s weight also sits on the rear.

Having the weight of the motor at the front of the bike and the battery toward the rear helps to distribute the weight more evenly. In other words, the weight of the front hub motor helps to balance the bike. The bike’s center of gravity remains near the center of the bike.

This balance makes the bike feel more natural to ride. You don’t feel the weight of the motor and battery quite as much when they’re evenly distributed. This improves ride quality and handling. The bike also feels more stable while maneuvering at low speeds.

Rear hub motor ebikes usually have the weight of the heavy motor and battery located toward the rear of the bike. Most of the rider’s weight also sits near the rear due to the placement of the seat. This makes the bike very rear-heavy.

The weight of the motor and battery feel much more noticeable when they’re both located at the back of the bike. The bike feels unbalanced. You can feel the weight of the motor more while maneuvering. Particularly while traveling at low speeds.

Another major drawback of having all of the weight at the rear of the bike is that the front wheel can come off the ground during quick acceleration and while climbing steep hills. You’ll pop wheelies if your bike has a high torque rear hub motor or small diameter wheels.

This can get annoying. You have to be careful while accelerating hard. You don’t want your front wheel to come off the ground every time you accelerate away from a stoplight or accelerate while climbing a hill. This can also be a safety issue. If you need to accelerate quickly away from a traffic situation, you want both wheels to stay on the ground. It can be dangerous if your front wheel lifts up when you’re not expecting it.

One problem with all hub motors is that they can create a gyroscopic effect while you’re riding at high speeds. When you lean the bike, the heavy spinning motor tries to right itself. This can affect the bike’s steering. This gyroscopic effect is more noticeable on front hub motor ebikes. You’ll feel it when turning the handlebars in certain situations.

Winner: Front hub motor bikes have better weight distribution.

Traction

Rear hub motor ebikes offer better traction than front hub motor ebikes. This is because more weight sits at the rear of the bike. Most of your body weight plus the weight of the motor and battery are supported by the rear axle.

The extra weight on the rear wheel increases the friction between the tire and the ground. This makes the rear tire less likely to lose traction and spin out during hard acceleration or while cornering.

You can accelerate harder when starting from a stop and while exiting a corner while riding a rear hub motor ebike. You can also lean a bit harder without your tire sliding out from under you. This allows you to maintain a higher average speed.

It’s harder to get traction when the motor is in the front hub because there is very little weight on the front wheel. Most of your body weight sits toward the rear of the bike. This means there is less friction between the front tire and the ground. During acceleration, the front tire can easily lose traction and start spinning out. You can’t accelerate quite as hard or fast with a front hub motor ebike.

The motor’s power and the bike’s wheel size also play a role in the traction. High-powered motors make it easier to spin your wheels out. Small diameter wheels spin out easier than larger diameter wheels.

For example, a 500-watt 48-volt front hub motor on an ebike with 20” tires would easily lose traction. The motor has too much power. It would be difficult to spin the wheel out on a rear hub motor ebike with the same configuration. A 250-watt 24-volt front hub motor on an ebike with 700c wheels will be much harder to spin out. With a powerful enough motor, you can spin the wheels out on any ebike.

Of course, your traction also depends on the surface of the road. When you’re riding on loose gravel or dirt, you’ll get less traction than you get on the pavement. On pavement, it’s possible to get enough traction to wheelie a powerful rear hub motor ebike.

Your tires also play a major role in your traction. Wider tires increase traction by creating a bigger contact patch with the ground. tread touches the ground. Knobby tires can increase your grip on loose and soft surfaces by digging into the ground.

In some situations, it’s important to consider the environment while riding your ebike. An overpowered ebike that loses traction easily can cause damage to trails and nature if you ride off-road. Spinning your tires can dig ruts which can change water flow, widen trails, and damage ecosystems. If you only ride on the pavement, you don’t have to worry about this.

Winner: Rear hub motor ebikes offer better traction because more weight sits near the rear of the bike.

Flat Tires on Hub Motor Wheels

In cycling, rear tire flats are more common than front tire flats. Sharp objects, such as nails, staples, shards of glass and metal, and other debris tend to puncture the rear tire more often than the front.

This is because most sharp objects tend to lie flat on the road. When you ride over them, your front tire usually doesn’t get damaged because the flat side isn’t sharp. The impact of your front tire rolling over the sharp objects kicks them up and upends them just in time for your rear tire to hit them. Once in a while, a sharp object will land in the perfect position to puncture the rear tire.

Flat tires are harder to repair on a wheel with a hub motor than on a standard wheel. The job takes longer and you have to be more careful. It also requires a bit more effort. There are a number of reasons for this.

First, you’ll have to disconnect the motor before you can remove it from the bike. This involves unplugging a cable. When you replace the wheel, you’ll have to reconnect it again. This isn’t a difficult job but it is an extra step. While disconnecting and re-connecting the cable, you have to make sure the connection doesn’t get damaged or contaminated with moisture or debris.

The wheel with the hub motor is significantly heavier than a standard wheel. Hub motors weigh 8-10 lbs (3.6-4.5 kg). It’s harder to remove and replace a tire from a heavier wheel because the wheel is more cumbersome. You have to lift the extra weight of the motor when removing and reinstalling the tire in the bike and while removing and reinstalling the tire. It requires more effort to move the heavy wheel around.

front, rear, motor, ebike

The wheel with the hub motor is also more fragile. You have to be careful while working on it. You don’t want to drop it and damage the motor. Hub motors are pretty robust but they can get damaged if you drop them or knock them around too much. Particularly if they are geared. Geared hub motors have more moving parts.

When the motor is in the front hub, you won’t have to deal with repairing flats on the hub wheel as frequently because front flats are much less common. This saves you time and stress. Flats are much easier to repair on the wheel without the hub motor.

There are some ways to reduce the number of punctures you have to deal with. You can run tubeless tires. These have a liquid sealant inside that fills most punctures before the air leaks out and the tire goes flat. You don’t even notice punctures. Alternatively, you could run tubes with sealant inside. These do the same thing. You can also run puncture-resistant tires. These have a protective strip of hard material inside, such as Kevlar. They are also thicker. This reduces the frequency of punctures. For more info, check out this guide to avoiding punctures on ebikes.

front, rear, motor, ebike

Winner: Front hub drive ebikes because the front wheel gets fewer flats. Rear flats are harder to repair when the motor is in the rear hub.

Front Hub Vs Rear Hub Motor Weight

Front hub motors are usually lighter than rear hub motors. This is because front hub motors must be smaller to fit between the more narrow front dropouts. Standard front dropouts have a spacing of 100mm. Rear hubs have a spacing of 135mm on average. The smaller motor contains less material so it weighs less.

Most front hub motors are also usually geared. They tend to be smaller and less powerful than rear hub motors. A lightweight 250w model may weigh around 3.5 lbs.

Rear hub motors are often big and heavy. Particularly direct drive (gearless) models. Many models weigh over 10 lbs. If you’re concerned with weight, there are lighter geared options available.

The lighter weight of front hub motors makes the bike easier and more efficient to ride when you’re not using the motor. When the motor is engaged, the weight difference doesn’t really matter.

important than the weight of the motor itself is weight distribution. You want the weight of the motor and battery to be disturbed as evenly as possible between the front and rear axles. Front hub motors do a better job of distributing weight than rear hub motors.

Winner: Front hub motors are often lighter than rear hub motors. On average, a front hub motor weighs 2-5 pounds less than a rear hub motor.

Hub Motor eBike Safety

Rear hub motors are safer than front hub motors. This is because rear dropouts are stronger. They can handle more torque without bending or breaking. They are less likely to fail and cause you to crash.

Some forks are not strong enough to handle the torque produced by a front hub motor. Over time, the force created by the motor can cause the dropouts or fork blades to fatigue. Eventually, they can fail, causing you to crash.

If your dropouts were to fail while you were riding, your wheel could come off. Your chances of getting injured are higher if your front dropouts fail. A fork failure is extremely dangerous. A crash at speed can cause severe injury or death. A rear dropout failure is also dangerous but the crash is likely to be less severe.

The frame and fork material are also important considerations. It is safest to only run a hub motor in a steel fork or frame. Steel is much more durable than either aluminum or carbon fiber. It’s less likely to fail. Having said this, many riders have installed hub motors in aluminum and carbon frames. Is generally not recommended.

Regardless of your frame material and motor location, you should regularly inspect your ebike’s frame tubes and dropouts. Ebikes in general put a lot of stress on frames. The motor creates more torque than a human can.

Look for cracks or dents in the fork arms, seat stays, and chainstays. Check all of the welds for cracks or crimping. Inspect the dropouts for cracks. If you spot any frame damage, replace the frame or take the bike to a professional for an inspection or repair.

To increase safety, it’s a good idea to install a torque arm on your hub motor ebike. A torque arm is a metal brace that prevents the axle from rotating in the dropouts. The torque arm transfers some of the force from the axle and transfers it to a stronger point further up the frame or fork.

Without a torque arm, the motor’s power can sometimes pry the dropouts open. When this happens, the axle begins spinning freely and severs the cable. The wheel can also fall out, causing you to crash. For more info on torque arms, check out this useful guide.

For more general info on safety, check out my guide: Are E-Bikes Safe?

Winner: Rear hub motors are safer than front hub motors.

Comfort and Ride Quality

Front hub motors can make the ride feel harsh. When you hit a bump or pothole, the extra weight of the motor makes the front of the bike drop harder and faster. You’ll feel more bumps in your hands and bottom. This can make for an uncomfortable ride. This rough ride can be an issue if you have back or joint problems. The extra bumps can cause pain.

It is possible to install a small front hub motor in a suspension fork. This can smooth out the ride but is not recommended for safety reasons. The pulling from the motor can damage the suspension components over time and cause the fork to fail.

Rear hub motors usually offer a more comfortable ride. You can safely use a suspension fork with a rear hub motor. Some ebikes come with full suspension. This can really make the rider smoother and more comfortable. As an added benefit, the suspension helps increase traction and handling.

On a hub drive ebike, the weight of the motor is unsprung because the weight is in one of the wheels. This means the suspension system can’t accommodate the weight of the motor. The added weight of the motor makes bumps feel harsher. If you plan to ride off-road or on rough terrain frequently, you may be better off with a mid-drive ebike.

The tires can also play a big role in ride quality. Wide, high-volume tires can help to absorb bumps and vibrations. Firm and narrow tires can create a rougher ride.

Winner: Rear hub motor ebikes are more comfortable.

Steering

Front hub motor ebikes can be harder to steer at low speeds. This is because the weight of the motor makes it harder to turn the handlebars quickly. You have to turn the heavy motor with the wheel. You might not be able to quickly move the handlebars to balance the bike or navigate tight spaces. This makes steering at low speeds a bit of a challenge. While riding at higher speeds, the weight of the motor is less noticeable. Wide flat handlebars can help make steering easier by providing more leverage.

On a rear hub drive ebike, the weight of the motor doesn’t affect low-speed steering. The handlebars remain light and nimble. This low-speed steering performance comes in handy while riding through dense cities and off-road.

A heavy hub motor can create a gyroscopic effect. When you lean the bike, the wheel tries to right itself. This can affect the steering while you’re riding at higher speeds. The bike can feel like it’s resisting your turns. It doesn’t want to lean into corners. You may not be able to corner quite as hard as you’re used to when you use a hub motor.

Winner: Rear hub motors because you don’t have to deal with the weight of the motor while turning the handlebars.

Front and Rear Hub Motors and Frames

One potential issue with front hub motors is that they may damage your bike’s fork over time. The motor causes the fork blades to flex when it engages. This flexing can cause the fork to fatigue and wear out faster than it normally would. Eventually, the fork can fail. For this reason, it’s best to limit front hub motors to 750 watts or less. powerful motors can cause excessive fork flex and premature failure.

The constant pulling from the motor can also cause the headset to wear out a bit faster. You might need to grease or replace your headset a bit more often when you use a front hub motor.

Rear hub motors are less likely to cause frame failure. This is because the rear dropouts and rear frame triangle are more robust than the fork and front dropouts. When you use a rear hub motor, you don’t have to worry as much about putting additional wear and tear on the frame. You should still inspect the condition of the frame periodically. If you spot any cracks or crimping, repair or replace the frame.

The frame material is also an important consideration when deciding between a front and rear hub drive motor. Most ebike builders recommended against installing a hub motor in a carbon or aluminum frame. The reason is that these materials are much more brittle and susceptible to fatigue than steel. The torque forces from the motor can cause some frames to fail over time.

If you’re planning to run a front hub motor in a carbon or aluminum bike, it’s a good idea to replace your fork with a durable steel model. If you’re planning to run a rear hub motor, you should choose a low-powered model. A 250 watt motor would work well.

To increase reliability and safety, you should always install a torque arm on your hub motor ebike, regardless of the frame or fork material. A torque arm braces your dropouts and reduces the likelihood of dropout failure. Without a torque arm, the motor can sometimes pry the dropouts open, causing the wheel to fall out.

Winner: An ebike with a rear hub motor is usually more durable and long-lasting than an ebike with a front hub motor due to the strength of the frame.

Ebike Options

Most off-the-shelf ebikes come with rear hub motors. When buying an ebike, you’ll have far more options to choose from if you choose a rear hub motor model. You can find ebikes with a range of motor sizes including 200w, 250w, 300w, 500w, 750w, 1000w, 1200w all the way up to 5000w. You can find rear hub motor ebikes with cadence sensor or torque sensor pedal assist. This allows you to choose from pretty much any style of bike including road bikes, mountain bikes, folding bikes, commuters, tandems, etc. Pretty much every configuration is available in rear hub drive.

Front hub motor ebikes are much less common. In fact, most front hub ebikes are conversions. Some folding bikes, such as the Brompton electric, use a front hub motor. You can also find front hub drive recumbent bikes. Running a front hub motor limits the motor size you can run. Front hub motors usually top out at 750w. Many front hub motor ebikes only feature a throttle. Some come with cadence sensors. A few come with torque sensors. Options are a bit more limited.

One major benefit of using a front hub motor is that you can use whatever type of drivetrain you want. For example, you could use an internal gear hub. This is nice because it allows you to shift gears while you’re stopped. You could also use a belt drive system instead of a chain. This reduces maintenance. Alternatively, you can choose from 1X, 2X, or 3X gearing. You can use modern 12 speed cassettes with electronic shifting. You can use a drivetrain from whatever brand you want.

It’s also possible to install a front hub motor on pretty much any bike. You don’t have to worry about compatibility with the drivetrain. It is important to consider whether or not your fork is strong enough to withstand the forces generated by the motor. If you want to convert your existing bike into an ebike, a front hub motor often gives you more options.

Yet another option to consider is the mid-drive motor. For more info, check out my guide to hub motor Vs mid-drive ebikes.

Winner: Rear hub motors give you more ebike motor and power delivery options. Front hub motors give you more drivetrain options.

Maintenance

One drawback to ebikes, in general, is that the motor puts additional stress on some of the bike’s components. When you ride an ebike, you’ll have to replace your tires more frequently because you’ll be riding at higher speeds and covering more ground than you do on a non-powered bike. Tires wear out faster. Brake pads also need to be replaced more frequently because slowing the bike down from high speeds wears the pads out faster. With a front hub motor, you may have to grease or replace your headset a bit more frequently because the pulling forces from the motor cause it to wear faster than normal.

The hub motor itself requires no maintenance. It is a sealed unit. To keep it operational, all you have to do is replace the hub bearings when they wear out. You also need to keep the hub clean and dry so it doesn’t get contaminated with debris or start to rust.

Winner: Front and rear hub motor ebikes require the same (low) maintenance.

Hub Motor Durability, Reliability, and Longevity

Front and rear hub motors are both equally durable, reliable, and long-lasting. After all, they are the same motors using the same technology.

If you want the most durable and reliable motor, choose a direct drive model. These are the most simple mechanically. They have no moving parts inside that can wear out. There are no gears. As long as you grease the bearings and keep the hub dry and free of rust, the hub should last many thousands of miles.

A direct drive hub motor can last 10,000 miles if you take care of it. In terms of hours, a direct drive hub motor can last 250-5,000 hours. They are long-lasting.

Higher-end hub motors come with internal planetary gears that reduce the RPMs. These models are smaller, lighter, and more efficient. They are a bit less durable and reliable because there are moving parts inside that can wear out and fail over time. If an internal gear fails, you’ll have to replace the motor in most cases. Geared hub motors don’t last quite as long as direct drive hub motors, on average.

Hub motors, in general, are not very repairable. If something breaks in the motor, it’s often easier to just replace the whole unit. They’re basically disposable. It is possible to open up the motor and replace parts but finding parts for your specific motor can be a challenge. Most bike shops won’t open up an electric motor and attempt to repair it. In some cases, you may be able to ship the motor to the manufacturer for repair. They may just sell you a new motor instead.

Individual ebike components can be replaced if they wear out or break. For example, if the handlebar-mounted control breaks, you can buy a new one from the manufacturer and swap it out. If a wire gets damaged, it can be replaced.

Winner: Both front and rear hub motors are durable and reliable. If something breaks, it’s usually possible to repair or replace it.

Front Vs Rear Hub Motor eBike Looks

Some riders prefer the look of rear hub motor ebikes because the motor is less noticeable. A small hub motor can be hidden behind the gear cluster and disc brake rotor. The frame looks completely normal. This makes your bike appear stealthier. The average person might not even notice that you’re riding an ebike. Front hub motors are harder to hide. The large hub makes it obvious that you’re riding an ebike.

Of course, if you want to build a stealthy ebike, you’ll also have to find a way to hide the battery. Mounting the battery on a rear rack is a common option. It is also possible to mount a small battery in a piece of luggage. Some higher-end ebikes have the battery integrated into the frame.

Winner: Rear hub motors are less noticeable. This is ideal if you prefer a stealthier-looking ebike.

Hub Motor eBike Power Delivery Systems: Pedal Assist and Throttle Systems

There are two power delivery systems available for ebikes: Pedal assist and throttles. Pedal assist systems engage the motor when you pedal. This gives you a little extra boost as you ride. You have to pedal for the motor to provide power.

Throttle systems are controlled by a handlebar-mounted control. You twist the grip, press a lever, or press a button to engage the motor. You don’t have to pedal to use the electric motor. Both front and rear hub drive motor ebikes are available with both power delivery systems.

Generally, you have more power delivery system options if you go with a rear hub motor ebike. Entry-level to mid-range models often come with cadence sensor pedal assist. Higher-end models offer torque sensor pedal assist. Many models also feature a throttle, where legal. You can find pretty much any configuration you desire.

Front hub motor ebikes are a bit more limited. Most basic systems only come with a throttle control. Many models also come with a cadence sensor pedal assist system. Torque sensors are rare on front hub motor ebikes.

For more in-depth info, check out my guide to pedal assist vs throttle controlled ebikes.

Winner: Rear hub motor ebikes come with more power delivery options. Cadence sensors, torque sensors, and throttles are all available on hub motor ebikes.

Front and Rear Hub Motor Compatibility

If you’re planning on installing a hub motor conversion kit on your existing bike, there are a few things you’ll have to consider to ensure that it’s compatible. The motor must match your hub spacing, axle type, gearing system, brake type, and wheel size.

Not all hub motors can fit all bikes. Sometimes you’ll run into compatibility issues. Generally, you’ll run into fewer compatibility issues if you go with a front hub motor than a rear hub motor.

In this section, I’ll outline a few of the most important things to consider when buying a front or rear hub motor to install on your bike. For more in-depth info on ebike hub motor compatibility, check out this great guide. If you’re buying a prebuilt ebike, you don’t have to worry about any of this.

Dropout Spacing

In order for the hub motor to fit your bike, it needs to match the hub spacing on your dropouts. A number of different dropout spacing sizes exist. Hub motors also come in different widths to accommodate frames with different dropout spacing.

If your bike frame has standard spacing, you won’t run into any compatibility issues. If your frame has odd-sized spacing, you’ll have fewer motor options to choose from. In some cases, you may have trouble finding a suitable motor to fit your bike.

Standard hub spacing is 100mm or 110mm for the front and 130mm,135mm, and 142mm for the rear. Most modern bike frames these hub spacing sizes. The standard width of most hub motors is 138-139mm. These can fit most bikes.

If your bike uses standard spacing, you won’t have any problem finding a suitable hub motor. You may need to bend the dropouts a couple of millimeters in one direction or the other to make the motor fit. This isn’t an issue, as long as your bike has a steel frame.

Different types of bikes come with different hub spacing. For example, many mountain bikes come with 148mm rear spacing. This is called boost spacing. Folding bikes often have 75mm front hub spacing. Fat bikes and downhill mountain bikes often have 150mm rear hub spacing. Tandems and recumbents sometimes use non-standard spacing as well.

If your bike has an odd-sized rear hub spacing, you’ll have fewer rear hub motor options to choose from. Sometimes, it can be difficult to find a hub motor that will fit. In most cases, you can find a compatible motor but you may not be able to get exactly what you want.

If you’re unable to find a compatible rear hub motor, it may be easier to fit a front hub motor because front hub spacing is more standard. Most modern bikes have 100mm or 110mm front hubs. If you’re having trouble finding a motor that will fit your bike, you can replace the fork with a wider model.

If your bike’s frame or fork is made from steel, it is possible to spread the dropouts 5-10 millimeters to make your hub motor fit. This is called cold setting the frame. You can read about this process here. Carbon fiber and aluminum frames can’t be adjusted. You may be able to get away with spreading the dropouts 1-3mm but it is somewhat risky.

Quick Release or Thru Axles

You need to choose a hub motor that matches the axle type that your frame is designed for. There are two types of axles: quick release and thru axles. The two axle types are not cross-compatible. You can’t install a standard hub motor in a bike with thru axles. You need a special thru axle compatible motor.

The vast majority of hub motors are designed to fit standard slotted dropouts, which are designed for quick release axles. The hub simply slots into the dropout and locks in place with a bolt. The slot usually measures 9.7-10mm wide. If your bike has quick release axles, you won’t have any trouble finding a compatible motor.

These days, thru axles are becoming increasingly common. In the past, they were only found on high-end mountain bikes. Now, many road bikes, commuters, touring bikes, and hybrids come with thru axles. Unfortunately, the ebike industry hasn’t really kept up. There aren’t many thru axle hub motors on the market. If your bike has thru axles, your options are limited.

One nice thing about thru axles is that there are fewer sizes. Most front thru axles measure either 12 x 100mm, 15 x 100mm, or 15 x 110mm. Rear thru axles come in 12 x 142mm and 12 x 148mm. You can find both direct drive and geared front and rear hub motors that are available or all of these thru axle sizes.

If you can’t find a hub motor that is compatible with your thru axle frame, one option is to install a new fork with quick release dropouts. This allows you to use a standard front hub motor.

One common issue with quick release frames is that the dropout slots can be a bit too narrow to fit the 10mm hub motor axle. If the slot is 9.7mm, the standard 10mm ebike axle may not fit. The solution is to use a hand file to widen the slot slightly so the axle can fit. Alternatively, you can file down the axle so it fits in the slots. This way, you’re not removing any material from the frame. Usually, you only have to remove a fraction of a millimeter of material for the axle to fit.

For more info, check out my guide to quick release vs thru axles.

Freewheel or Freehub Hub Motor

You’ll also have to choose a hub that is compatible with your bike’s gearing. Hub motors are available for both freewheel and freehub systems. The main difference between a freewheel and freehub is the placement of the mechanism that allows you to coast.

Freewheel systems have the coasting mechanism built into the gear cluster. Freehub systems have the coasting mechanism built into a separate piece called the freehub body. This part attaches directly to the hub. For more in-depth info, check out this guide.

Most hub motors use the older freewheel system. The freewheel is a single unit that usually has 5, 6, or 7 gears. It threads directly onto the hub motor’s shell. If the bike you’re converting has a freehub, you might be able to simply swap it to your new hub motor. Some kits include a new freewheel already threaded onto the hub motor.

If your bike uses a freehub system with a cassette, you might have to downgrade from a 9, 10, 11, or 12 speed cassette to 7 or 8 speed freewheel. 9 and 10 speed freewheels are available but the quality of these is often low quality. They make shifting a bit less smooth. This may require you to also swap out your derailleurs and shifters.

There are also hub motors available that are designed for the newer freehub system. These use a standard Shimano freehub body and cassette. If your bike has a 9, 10, 11, or 12 speed drivetrain, you’re better off going with one of these motors. This way, you can transfer over your existing cassette and maintain your current gearing. If you decide to use a freewheel motor, it’s best to downgrade your gearing to 7 or 8 speed. This makes setup easier.

Even if you buy a hub motor that is compatible with your bike’s gearing system, you can still run into compatibility issues. You may have to install a different sized cassette or freewheel to make everything fit. Hub motors tend to be wider than standard hubs. Some high gear count cassettes and freewheels may not fit because they’re too wide. You may also have to install a different derailleur and shifter if you change the number of gears significantly.

You can avoid having to deal with the gearing altogether by installing a front hub motor. This simplifies the conversion. When you use a front hub motor, you don’t have to worry about the gearing at all. The motor is completely separate.

Disc Brakes

You’ll also have to consider brake compatibility when choosing a hub motor. If your bike has disc brakes, you’ll need a hub motor that has mounting points on the side for the brake rotor. Most use a 6 bolt mount. In most cases, you can bolt your existing rotor onto the new hub motor.

One common issue with hub motors is that they place the disc rotor a couple of millimeters too far to the left. Ideally, the rotor mounting surface should be 15mm from the inner dropout at the rear and 10mm at the front.

Hub motors sometimes move the rotor a couple of millimeters to leave room for the wider hub. Unfortunately, this can cause the rotor to rub on the pads because it puts the rotor out of alignment with the brake caliper. This issue is common on generic hub motors. Brand name hub motors usually get the spacing right.

If you encounter this issue, you may have to adjust the caliper mount. In some cases, you can file down the mounting surface to move the caliper out a couple of millimeters. It may also be possible to increase the length of the slots to move the caliper.

You also have to make sure there is space between the side of the hub and rotor for the caliper to fit. Some larger hubs don’t leave much room for the caliper. Ideally, you want at least 18-20mm of clearance between the hub and rotor. Some motors only leave 14-15mm. This usually isn’t enough. The rotor will hit the motor.

If the spacing is tight, there are a few solutions. You can try using a more narrow caliper. Usually, mechanical disc brake calipers are more narrow than hydraulic disc brake calipers. The most low-profile models measure around 14mm wide.

Another option is to use a larger rotor and move the caliper further from the center of the rotor. This helps because most hub motors become more narrow toward the edges. This may require a caliper adapter.

Yet another option is to use spacers to move the rotor away from the hub. This makes the axle longer. You may have to spread your dropouts to make the wheel fit.

Rim brakes simplify things. If your bike uses rim brakes, you’ll just have to make sure your frame and rim brake calipers have enough clearance for the rim and tire you plan to run.

For more info, check out my guide to disc vs rim brakes.

Wheel Size

Most hub motor conversion kits come with a complete wheel including the hub motor, spokes, and a rim. The complete wheel is already built and ready to install. If you choose a rear hub motor, the wheel may come with a freewheel or cassette attached.

This makes it much easier to install the motor. You don’t have to mess with building a wheel yourself or paying someone to build a wheel for you. Instead, you can simply swap out your old wheel for a new one with the hub motor already built in.

You need to choose a wheel that matches your bike’s wheel size. For example, if your bike has 700c wheels, you’ll need an ebike kit that comes with a 700c wheel. Many kits are available in a range of sizes. Common sizes include 20″, 24″, 26″ 650b, 700c, and 29″. Fat bike options are also available.

If you prefer, you can also buy the motor on its own and build it into your own wheel. This will be the better option if you prefer to use a particular type of rim or spokes.

Most hub motor complete wheels are factory built. The spokes may not be perfectly tensioned. Sometimes the wheels aren’t perfectly true. You might want to take the wheel to a bike shop and have it adjusted. This is much cheaper and simpler than building a whole wheel.

For more info, check out my guides to different wheels sizes: 700c Vs 650b wheels and 700c vs 26″ wheels.

Ease of Hub Motor Installation

Front hub motors are easier to install than rear hub motors. This is because you don’t have to worry about whether or not your cassette or freewheel and rear derailleur is compatible with the hub. The front hub motor is completely separate from the drivetrain. This simplifies things.

If you’re installing a rear hub motor on your existing bike, you can run into compatibility issues. When choosing a motor, you’ll need to take your bike’s gearing into account. Sometimes you’ll have to install a different cassette or freewheel to make everything fit. In some cases, this may require you to install new derailleurs and a new chain. This adds cost and makes the conversion more complicated. You’ll also have to adjust the derailleurs after installation so the chain doesn’t rub.

Of course, if you’re buying an ebike off the shelf, you don’t have to worry about installation. The bike will come from the factory with everything already installed.

Winner: Front hub motors are easier to install than rear hub motors. This is because there is no gearing in the front.

Who Should Choose a Front Hub Motor Ebike?

Front hub motor ebikes are the better choice for those who need good handling. The front motor better distributes the weight across both axles so the bike feels more balanced. This allows for better handling. The bike steers precisely and predictably. It feels a bit more natural to ride. It also makes the bike easier to ride. Beginner ebikers may appreciate this.

Those who are converting their existing bike into an ebike are sometimes better off with a front hub motor due to their greater compatibility and ease of installation. It’s often easier to find a front hub motor that will fit your bike because front dropouts are more standard. You also won’t have to worry about gearing when you install a front hub motor. If your frame is not compatible with a hub motor, you can swap out your fork to a model that is compatible. You can install a front hub motor on pretty much any bike.

Who Should Choose a Rear Hub Motor Ebike?

Rear hub motor ebikes are better for those who want to accelerate quickly and ride at higher speeds. Having the weight of the motor at the rear greatly improves traction. The weight of the motor and most of the weight of the rider sit on the rear wheel. The extra weight increases friction between the road and tire. This makes the tire less likely to lose grip and spin out. This allows you to get off the line quickly without your tire slipping. You can also corner a bit harder without losing grip.

If you want to run a large motor, you’re also better off with a rear hub drive. You can run a larger motor in the rear because the dropout spacing is wider and the rear dropouts are a bit more robust. A larger motor will fit and the dropouts can handle the extra power. If you want to use a motor with more than 750 watts of power, a rear hub motor ebike is the better choice.

Those who are concerned with safety are better off going with a rear hub motor ebike. The rear dropouts are much stronger and more durable than the front dropouts because they are designed to handle the force from the drivetrain. They are less likely to fail.

Final Thoughts About Front Vs Rear Hub Motor Ebikes

As we have seen, front and rear hub ebikes both have their own advantages and disadvantages. There isn’t really a clear winner here.

For most riders, a rear hub motor is preferable. The strength of the rear dropouts makes the system more durable. You don’t have to worry as much about frame wear or failure. Traction is also much better. This allows you to accelerate faster.

Front hub motors also have their place. They offer superior weight distribution. This makes the bike feel a bit more balanced and natural to ride. Rear tire flats are also easier to repair when the motor is in the front. Whichever style of ebike you choose, I hope this guide has helped you in making your decision.

Do you ride a front hub or rear hub motor ebike? Share your experience in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев below!

from Where The Road Forks

HUB MOTOR eBIKE

The Quest Hub eBike is ideal for everyday use. Whether commuting, running errands or getting out for fun with friend you will travel in style and with confidence. Simple to use, packed with fun, ready for adventure.

The Quest Hub eBike is ideal for everyday use. Whether commuting, running errands or getting out for fun with friend you will travel in style and with confidence. Simple to use, packed with fun, ready for adventure.

Quests Canadian research team developed this bike not just to get you from A to B, but to make sure you will want to carry on to C… and back again.

Step Through Frame

The Low Entry Frame Design allows for easy access while providing a comfortable ride feel for the rider. The lower step through will accommodate a wide range of rider heights and abilities.

The 36v / 350w rear hub motor compliments the rider’s output, meaning that regardless the effort the rider is putting into the drivetrain, the motor will make sure that you’re keeping your desired pace.

The QUEST HUB offers riders 9 levels of power assist to better empower riders to fine tune their on-road experience and moderate their power consumption.

The on-demand push-paddle throttle enables the rider to have the full power of the motor at their fingertips should the occasion arise.

The conveniently placer LCD display is integrated with the control panel on the handle bar to ensure you have a clear readout of the eBike’s electrical performance as well as integrating cyclocomputer functions and details where you can see them as you ride. Including: Battery Status, PAS Level, Error Detection, Speedometer, Odometer, Trip Time

The TEKTRO disc brake system is highly responsive and provides outstanding stopping power in all conditions with a 180mm front / 160mm rear rotor and actuated power cut-off for additional safety. essential when traveling at speed.

Gears and Shifters

Smooth shifting of the 8 speed SHIMANO Altus derailleur comes as standard from the SHIMANO trigger shifters with Rapidfire technology.

Suspension Fork

The SUNTOUR NEX suspension fork. designed specifically for eBikes. will flatten bumpy roads and aid in eliminating arm fatigue over long journeys.

Rear Cargo Rack

A heavy duty rear cargo rack can support up to 15kg and comes with bungee cords to quickly secure objects. The rack can accept any standard pannier systems for additional storage when needed.

Removable battery

Lightweight and Long-Range 418Wh Lithium Battery. Removable for charging on or off the bike with key lock for security. than enough power to last all day and get you back home.

FULL SPECIFICATIONS

FRAMESET DRIVETRAIN COMPONENTS WHEELS
FRAME Quest step through multi-adjustable 6061 Alloy 26”, internal cable routing, Removable in frame battery, 18
COLOR White with Black
FORK SUNTOUR NEX Suspension 26” 50mm travel
SHIFTERS SHIMANO rapidfire 8-speed shifter
CHAINRINGS 42T
CHAIN KMC
REAR DERAILLEUR SHIMANO Altus 8-speed
CASSETTE 11-32T
HANDLEBAR Alloy Touring back sweep 30°
STEM PROMAX Adjustable
GRIPS Rubber Ergonomic
SEATPOST Alloy Touring
SADDLE SELLE ROYAL Comfort
BRAKE LEVERS TEKTRO Aries with integrated bell, power shut off switches
BRAKE CALIPERS TEKTRO Mechanical Disc
ROTORS Front 180mm, Rear 160mm
TIRES CST Classic Zeppelin 26 x 2.0
RIMS Double Wall Alloy with Quick Release Hub
SPOKES Black Steel
ELECTRIC TECHNOLOGY OTHER NOTES
DISPLAY UNIT LCD Backlit, Error Detection, Battery Status, Lights Switch, Main Power, Power Assist Level Selector, Speedometer, Odometer, Trip Timer
MOTOR 350 watt, (500 watt peaks) Geared Bushless rear hub motor
TORQUE 43Nm
BATTERY TYPE 18650 Samsung cells, Lithium Ion Battery
BATTERY VOLTAGE (V) 36V
BATTERY (AH) 11.6Ah
BATTERY CAPACITY (WH) 417.6Wh
RANGE Approximately 60. 80km (37. 50mi)
POWER ASSIST 9 Levels of power assisted pedalling
THROTTLE Any time on demand thumb throttle
CONNECTORS Push type quick change for easy maintenance
SENSOR Speed sensor, 12 magnetic, dual hall
CLASS Class 2
BATTERY CHARGER 110/220 volt CUL Approved Smart Charger 2 Amp
ACCESSORIES (INCLUDED) SPANNINGA Lights. Front: Galeo / Rear: Duxo Xe (Powered by main battery), Front Rear Alloy Fenders, Rear Cargo Rack 15 kg capacity with bungee, Chain Guard, Water Bottle Boss on Seat Tube, Kickstand, Tool Kit
BIKE WEIGHT 21.7kg (48 lbs)
BATTERY WEIGHT 2.3kg (5 lbs)
WEIGHT CAPACITY 114 kg (250 lbs)
Battery can be charged on or off the bike

SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED Comes mostly built in the box. Simple 3 step process to complete.

Actual range may vary depending on Ah of battery rider weight and other riding conditions.

Electric bike class regulation: Class 1. Pedal assist motor with maximum assisted speed 32km/h (20mph) Class 2. Pedal assist motor and throttle with maximum assisted speed 32km/h (20mph) Class 3. Throttle and/or pedal assist motor with maximum assisted speed 45km/h (28mph) all classes allow a maximum motor power of 750W(US) or 500W(Canada)

This bike is sold factory configured to CLASS 2 specifications.

Need help?

Some questions we hear a lot.

Can I ride my Quest electric bike in the rain?

Sure. Getting caught in the rain isn’t a problem (unless you are wearing your fancy new wool sweater, right?).

As with any bicycle make sure you take the time to wipe down your eBike before storing to prevent premature aging of the frame. If the battery has become wet remove it from the frame, wipe off any excessive water and place in a non humid area so it can dry naturally. The battery, motor, controller and all electrical components of Quest eBikes are quite capable of dealing with everyday riding conditions with nothing more than the normal care and attention you would expect to shown any good quality bicycle.

How do I clean an electric bicycle?

With all the love and attention such a beautiful piece of equipment deserves!

Hand washing any bicycle will help prolong its life and an electric bicycle is no different. Eliminating the build up of mud and dirt will ensure a smoother riding experience. Occasional cleaning and lubrication of the mechanical components will keep them looking sparkly and running at optimal performance for many years.

Electric components on a Quest eBike require no special attention but care should be taken not to submerge them in water during cleaning (i.e. a pressure hose should never be used on the eBike. cycling into a swimming pool or taking a bath with your eBike should be avoided).

Remove the battery before cleaning. A rub down with a lightly soapy damp sponge and brushes to remove dirt followed by towel drying is more than sufficient to keep your Quest eBike looking beautiful and in tip top condition.

How far can the Quest Mid Motor eBike travel on a single charge?

How long is a piece of string… OK, not a very useful answer. If you want the quick answer approximately 60. 80km. Now, if you want to know how we got this value read on.

There is no standardized test to validate distance per charge of an electric bicycle so any time you see a range value stated you must remember it is the company selling the bike that determined how to test their own product… you see how this could lead to some conflict of interests?

range will change considerably from ride to ride due to so many variables that giving a one number answer without explanation is of little help to anyone (except the marketing department, and no-one wants to make their job easy, right?). So, how do we help make things easy for you? Well, looking at the battery capacity is a good starting point. The Watt Hour (Wh) value of an eBikes battery will give a good idea of the battery’s capability and is a value that can be directly compared. the higher Wh value the greater the battery capacity. Determining what the bike can achieve with this capacity is where the fun starts.

A well made bike with industry standard components will produce less mechanical resistance and be more efficient than one built with cheap components. Better components and build provide greater range if all else is equal. But, no two journeys or riders are exactly the same. Simple variables such as the weight of bike rider cargo will effect the attainable range (don’t even get me started on the aerodynamic position of the rider and the wind resistance of their clothing!). Likewise riding into a strong wind will require you or the bike to work much harder than when the the wind is behind you, and pushing full throttle up a mountain will use up considerably more power than coasting down the other side.

At Quest we like to bring our bikes to real Canadian locations and research performance in a diverse range of real life conditions. OK… we like to take the bikes out period, and would look for any excuse to spend all day riding. But this isn’t just for our enjoyment. Our fun translates directly into a bunch of real time data to work from when we evaluate our eBike’s distance per charge.

How long will my battery last?

With appropriate care we estimate the battery to last 750 charges before noticeable degradation to a stage where replacing might start to be a consideration. For an average rider this would translate into at least 5 years of use. To ensure the battery has a long and happy life it should be put on charge as soon as possible should it become fully depleted. During long periods of storage the battery should be lightly charged once a month. The full guide to best practice for better battery care is included in every Quest eBike user manual.

What is the difference between a Mid Motor eBike and a Hub Motor eBike?

There are many good reasons why both Mid Motor and Hub Motor drive systems are popular eBike options. Knowing the differences and advantages of each drive system will help ensure you ride the eBike that is most enjoyable for your specific use.

A Hub Motor with cadence sensors…

…will accelerate the eBike to a constant speed (determined by the PAS level selected) and sustain that speed for as long as the pedals are in rotation. This is an ideal setup to attain a controlled, regulated and consistent ride. How much or how little effort to exert during this ride can be changed with a tap of the finger (e.g. cruise into work without breaking a sweat, change settings for more of a workout on the way home).

… is less reliant on the use of the bicycle gears for best performance, so a casual rider may prefer the freedom and simplicity of a more forgiving system. The gears can be used to adjust the required cadence (speed of rotation) of the riders legs to the most comfortable level at any given time.

…is a less complex technology that has been around for longer than Mid Motor technology and due to this is generally less expensive.

… excels as a cost effective eBike option for every day use. a true car replacement vehicle.

A Mid Motor with torque sensors…

… will constantly assess and respond to the force applied by the rider during each pedal stroke and provide proportionate extra ‘leg power’ directly at the crank for an experience that feels natural and instantly intuitive even with the amplified results. The amount of effort put in by the rider directly effects the eBikes assistance.

… works best when the rider is prepared to ‘read the road’ and ride appropriately. Understand good riding practice and correct gear use will maximise the efficiency and take full advantage of this system’s benefits.

… Is a newer technically advanced system with more complexity making it generally more expensive.

… can provide a genuinely natural ride quality that will seem familiar and comfortable to any dedicated cyclist.

So, what is right for me?

Riders who use an eBike primarily as a form of transport, to commute, performing local errands or for general fun with friends may prefer the lower cost, practicality and ease of use a Hub Motor system has to offer. For the rider who wants to fully appreciate the journey, values their ride as a break in their daily routine or already has experience on a bike and wants to feel superhuman, the Mid Motor system may be preferential as it amplifies the exhilarating personal experience that can be attained from riding a bicycle.

Do I need to be a mechanical genius or electrical engineer to assemble my Quest eBike?

NO. Quest eBikes come with all electrical components fully assembled and calibrated. All mechanical assembly has also been completed with the exception of the 3 final steps.

Put simply this means the only assembly required after taking your new eBike out of the box is aligning the handlebar, placing the front wheel on the fork and attaching the pedals. If you have ever owned any bicycle (electric assist or fully mechanical) these steps will be simple to complete.

A full assembly video at https://vimeo.com/ridequest/assembly-hub is available for visual reference, while a user manual and the tools required to complete assembly are provided with the eBike.

(If you feel the need for professional assistance any local bicycle store should be capable of completing the assembly regardless of prior experience with electric bicycles. The mechanical elements of the Quest eBike function in exactly the same way as any fully mechanical bicycle so these final assembly steps will have been repeated hundreds of times by any good bicycle mechanic.)

What else should I know before riding an eBike?

There are general regulations that any eBike must conform to when ridden on public roads in Canada. The Quest Hub Motor eBike meets all the requirements under section 2(1) of the Canada Motor Vehicle Safety Regulations for power assisted bicycles and falls into the ‘Class 2’ category for electric bicycles. pedal assist motor and throttle with maximum assisted speed of 32km/h (20mph). Maximum motor power for any street legal eBike in Canada is 500W. The Quest Hub Motor eBike has a motor that complies with this requirement.

Provincial regulations may vary regarding minimum age of rider, speed, power, etc. Please check your provincial requirements before riding any eBike on public roads.

Quest support is available to answer any other questions you may have and can be contacted through email at support@ridequest.ca or on the toll free line 1.866.996.6686 from 9am to 5pm Monday. Friday.

Always wear a helmet when riding an eBike.

The best electric bike conversion kits 2023 and how to fit them

The best electric bike conversion kits can give you an extra boost of power without the expense of purchasing a new electric bike. We’ve fitted some of the best e-bike conversion kits ourselves, so will walk you through the process, how easy it is and how the different systems perform.

E-bikes are soaring in popularity – and for good reason. The best electric bikes replace a car for running errands around town and greatly increase the distances it’s possible to ride on one of the best commuter bikes. An e-bike can also be a great tool for boosting your fitness, whether that’s enabling you to ride with a greater range of people or offering the motivation of a greater range of roads to explore.

But is an e-bike worth it,? As the best ebike conversion kits promise to add power to an ‘analogue’ bike for a lot less than a full ebike, it’s an easy, cheaper way to get an electric boost.

In this guide we’ll take you through the surprisingly broad range of benefits an e-bike conversion kit has to offer and – most importantly – how to perform an e-bike conversion, based on our hands-on experience. For a walk-through on how to do it, you can check out the video above or read on for a step-by-step guide – it genuinely is so much simpler than you would think.

When buying an ebike conversion kit there are a number of factors you’ll need to consider. Most importantly you’ll need a kit that will fit your bike. To help with this it pays to take a few frame measurements, notably the width of your forks and the width of the rear stays, as well as noting the wheel size and the type of brakes. You can then match these details to the kit specifications.

Naturally you’ll also need to consider the cost and how much you chose to spend on an ebike conversion kit will be dictated by not only your budget but also your needs. If you’re unsure of just how much you’ll use the converted bike then it’s prudent to opt for a cheaper kit. you can always upgrade down the road.

You’ll also want to consider where the motor will be located, and match this to your bike and your mechanical prowess. Front hub motors are typically the easiest to fit, while mid-drive motors require more effort. A rear hub motor lies somewhere in between the two, and like a front hub option is applicable to a wide range of bikes.

Other considerations include the type of battery and the wattage rating. 36 or 48 volt battery is standard, with wattage usually running from 300 to 600 watts.

The Swytch kit is super-simple: just swap out your front wheel, wire up the controller and battery and you’re off. The battery is also very compact, allowing you to remove it from the bike easily to carry with you.

front, rear, motor, ebike

The TongSheng kit positions the motor at the centre of the bike, so it will fit to a wide range of designs. It’s lightweight for its high torque and power output, although you’ll need to buy the battery separately.

The Voilamart kit is an inexpensive rear wheel conversion option, although you’ll have to source a battery separately. It’s slightly fiddly to fit as well and requires additional waterproofing if you plan to ride in wet weather.

The best electric bike conversion kits

You can trust Cycling Weekly.

Our team of experts put in hard miles testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.

Specifications

Wheel sizes: Each wheel is custom built – specify your required size at checkout (Bromptons also catered for)

Reasons to avoid

The newly updated Swytch system is one of the simplest conversion kits to fit out there. The latest version, launched in August 2022, has a smaller, neater battery pack that improves the bike’s dynamics and lowers its weight. There’s the choice of the Air battery (700g, range 15km) or the Max battery (1,100g, range 30km). Both use the same mount, which places the battery to the front of the handlebar.

The motor sits in the front hub and we found it to be pretty discreet. Incidentally, the new batteries will work with the original motor and pedal sensor, so if you already own the original kit you can upgrade it with just a new battery without having to buy the whole kit again.

The Swytch kit is incredibly easy to fit. It took us around 30 minutes working at a steady pace.

We tested it on both a reasonably light two-speed steel bike and a heavier Pinnacle utility bike. It transformed the ride of the two-speed bike, making it fast, nimble and responsive. We also found the stated range to be conservative: after 20 miles on setting number two (medium assist) it had only used two bars out of five on the battery.

With the heavier Pinnacle on maximum assist (and on draggy routes) we were getting slightly under the 30km for the Max battery. As with all e-bike batteries, range depends on the terrain, weight of bike and level of assist.

Great customer support makes this one of the best kits for people who are new to working on their bike and who aren’t familiar with electrics. And even if you do have a strong background in both those areas, a simple system is always appreciated.

Reasons to avoid

Like the Bafang mid-drive system below, the TongSheng offers the same benefits of compatibility with a wide range of bike designs and a high torque for steep hills and off-road terrain. However, the TongSheng mid-drive does manage to be a little lighter than the Bafang for approximately the same power.

This model doesn’t come with a battery included, so you’ll have to source your own 36v item. As a rule of thumb, around 10Ah will give a range of 29km / 18mi, whereas going up to 18Ah will typically give around 53km / 33mi, so be sure to factor that in when you’re making your choice.

There’s a huge range of batteries sold on Amazon, but Green Cell is a particular brand we’d recommend.

We found fitting to be reasonably easy. As with most mid-drive systems, you replace your crank and chainring with the one provided in the kit. There’s an LCD display for attaching to your handlebars and you’ll need a battery to be hooked up to the motor.

Read more: TongSheng TSDZ2 conversion kit review

Reasons to avoid

A mid-motor drive system offers a number of benefits over hub-driven conversion kits. With the power delivered at the cranks it can produce more torque, making it more effective on particularly steep and bumpy terrain.

Another perk is that the compatibility is much greater – no concern about wheel diameters, hub widths, axle standards and brake type. No matter whether you’re running rim brakes or disc, quick release or thru-axle, the crank driven system is compatible with all.

The only proviso is that the frame material must be alloy and the bottom bracket width is 68–73mm – but that covers most bikes you’re likely to be fitting this system to.

There are a few aspects to be aware of, the first being that this system doesn’t include a battery and that typically makes up about half the cost of a conversion kit. Finding an e-bike battery is quite straightforward with many being sold on Amazon, with Green Cell being among those we’d recommend.

Just make sure to get a 36V one for this motor as a higher voltage can damage it. Also you should be aware that capacity of 10Ah will give you a range of about 29km / 18mi, while a capacity of 18Ah typically gives about 53km / 33mi – so be sure to factor in the distances you’re planning on riding.

Reasons to avoid

This radically different approach from Rubbee makes for an e-bike conversion with much fewer parts. The battery and motor are housed in a single unit which powers the bike directly turning the rear wheel with its integrated roller.

Not only is the initial installation notably fast and easy, the quick release system means that you can take off the unit for rides that you don’t wish to be assisted on. At 2.8kg, it doesn’t add much weight to that of the bike, making the bike easier to handle.

The range of this model is quite low, limited to Eco mode it only offers a range of 16km / 10mi – although taking the device off to charge at the other end is easy to do and it only takes an hour to top up. There is the option to increase your range by buying additional battery modules that fit into the base unit.

Up to three can be accommodated, which in turn increases the maximum range to 48km / 30mi, or around 23km / 14mi with moderately heavy use. However, unlike many other e-bike systems, the Rubbee X supports regenerative braking, allowing you to scrub back some power on the descents.

Reasons to avoid

Bafang is a well established maker of electric bike motors and offers a front hub based motor, if you’re not a fan of the bulky profile a mid motor conversion system creates. You can buy this kit without a battery – although why would you? – but if you sensibly also opt for a power-pack there’s a choice of amp hours, and you can select either a downtube or a rear-rack mounted version.

The setup follows the same principles as most front-wheel e-bike conversions. First you need to set up the wheel with a disc rotor, tyre and inner tube and install that into the bike. Then attach the cadence sensor – so it can tell when you’re pedalling and need assistance – then attach the battery and the LCD display and you’re essentially good to go!

It’s worth bearing in mind that although this conversion kit comes in many different wheel sizes, it is only compatible with bikes that have a front disc brake and a Quick-Release axle. If your disc brake bike is a newer, more expensive model, it might not be compatible, so worth checking first.

Remember, that in the UK electric bike laws mean that e-bikes are not permitted to have a power output of more than 250w and shouldn’t propel the bike when it’s travelling more than 15.5mph – you’ll have to make sure you select the right model with the relevant limitations.

Reasons to avoid

We’ve also tested the Voilamart kit, which comes with six main parts: the replacement rear wheel, the replacement brake levers, the control screen, pedal sensor, throttle and the control box. It doesn’t come with a battery however.

On review we found the kit pretty straightforward to fit, although you’ll need to remove the bike’s crank to fit the pedal sensor and this element of the conversion was a bit fiddly. Another potential drawback is that the connectors, which link to control unit, aren’t waterproof, with only a bag supplied to house the delicate electronics. While it does a good job of keeping everything tidy, we decided to buy a plastic enclosure, cut the wires to length, solder the connections and then heat shrink for added protection.

As for the ride, the rear wheel kit delivers plenty of power. However, since the pedal sensor only detects when you’re pedalling rather than how hard you’re pedalling it delivers the power as soon as your start to turn the crank arms. Fortunately, you can quickly adjust the level assistance, with five power options available.

All in all the Voliamart rear wheel kit is an affordable way to ‘go electric’, although it requires you to be mechanical competent to fit it and you’ll need to factor in the additional cost of a battery.

How to convert your bike to an e-bike in four steps

Here’s our step-by-step guide to how to add an electric bike conversion kit to your pedal-powered bike.

Swap the tyre and tube

Firstly, remove the tyre and tube from your current front wheel and then install them on the new wheel from the kit. Make sure to check if the tyre is directional, if it is, ensure that the tyre is mounted so that the cable sticking out of the hub is on the left-hand side (non-driveside) when the wheel is installed in the bike – otherwise it’ll be powered in the opposite direction to your direction of travel!

To swap the tyre and tube over, you will need some tyre levers and a pump. If you want to go over how to do these, we have a guide that can be accessed here.

Final points are to do up the nuts on the wheel’s axle to keep it firmly in place in the forks and to check that the brakes are correctly adjusted for the new wheel. If you’re unsure how to do that, we have another guide here.

Attach the bracket to the handlebars

There is a strap that needs to be attached to the bars to keep the bracket in place and stop it rotating around. There are also some adaptors included in the kit which can be used if your handlebars are a little skinnier.

But essentially all that’s needed to be done here is a couple of screws to clamp the bracket tightly to the bars.

Attach magnet disc and sensor

The magnet disc has a split design so it can just clip around the inside of the left (non-driveside crank) and is then held in place by its retention ring. Next, stick the sensor on the frame directly in line with the magnets – this will ensure that the sensor can tell when the cranks are moving.

Plug in the cables

The thickest one is the main power cable and that just needs to be plugged into the cable extending from the hub. The other orange cable attaches to the cadence sensor and this just needs plugging in as well.

It’s then a good idea to use some cable ties to tidy up the lengths of the cables a little bit, so they aren’t flapping about and risk getting caught on the spokes or on the cranks.

The blue cables, you don’t need to worry about, these are for an optional brake sensor upgrade kit.

Why convert your bike to an e-bike?

What types of conversion kit are available?

You can get conversion kits that power your front or rear wheel or power the bikes via the cranks.

Wheel-based systems usually have a hub motor and require replacement of your existing wheel with a compatible motorised one.

The alternative is a system like the Rubbee that drives your wheel by pushing on the tyre. Tyre wear can be an issue here though.

Finally, there are systems that power the e-bike via the bottom bracket.

Usually the e-bike’s battery will bolt onto your frame or be attached to your handlebars, although sometimes you can fit a battery pack to a rear rack.

We’ve more on compatibility. which can be an issue. below.

How much does it cost to convert a bike to an e-bike?

vary depending on the type of conversion kit and the size of the battery. To give a rough Band, you can expect to pay a total of between £500 and £800 from a reputable brand, but there will be outliers at either end.

Is it worth converting a bike to an e-bike?

There are many reasons to upgrade your bike to offer a little e-assistance. On the one hand, it can greatly increase the usefulness of your bike, enabling you to replace short car journeys – such as around town, to the shops, or to work – with going by bike instead.

It’s a lot more environmentally friendly getting about on two wheels than in a two-ton metal box. It can also save you time – bikes are able to take more direct routes and are less affected by traffic, as well as eliminating the need to search for a parking space at the other end.

But beyond just their practical benefits, e-bikes can also be a potent tool for boosting your fitness. Consistency is key when it comes to exercise, so making commitments with friends is a great way to ensure you’re heading out the door. Previously, differing fitness levels could make it difficult to find a riding partner but with an e-bike levelling the playing field, getting in a productive workout (for both of you) with a friend is much easier to do.

Added to that, an e-bike can be much more motivating in that it opens up a far greater range of roads than you’d be able to access just under the power of your own two legs. Exploring new roads is part of the fun of riding a bike and an e-bike can help preserve that.

Can you convert any regular bike to an e-bike?

Most bikes can be converted to an e-bike – it just requires getting the matching the right conversion kit to match the specification.

For conversion kits where the motor is located at the wheel’s hub, you’ll need to consider the wheel’s diameter, the width and axle standard of the hub and whether it uses rim or disc brakes. For instance, a 700c (AKA, 28”) disc brake wheel with a 100mm wide quick-release hub is a relatively common spec. Once you’ve determined what type of wheel you need, the conversion is quite a straightforward process

Crank driven systems are generally easier in terms of determining compatibility; the requirements are typically just an alloy frame and a bottom bracket width of between 68 and 73mm – which is the standard for all road and mountain bikes, it’s only specialist bikes that have a different spacing there. In replacing the crankset, these systems are a bit more involved to fit than a hub system, but still well within the remit of a home mechanic.

Other kits, such as those that directly drive the rear tyre, have almost universal compatibility – provided your tyres aren’t too heavily treaded.

Are electric bike conversion kits any good?

You won’t be getting the very best motors and the largest, seamlessly integrated batteries with an e-bike conversion kit. But with that said, e-bike conversion kits are much cheaper than purchasing a whole new e-bike and they do deliver many of the same benefits.

Converted e-bikes are great for commuting and utility cycling, giving that extra boost to help flatten hills, motor along the flat and lug about heavy loads. E-bike conversions are also good for leisure cycling, helping to moderate your effort level as needed and greatly extending the range you can explore.

For more specialist utility needs, buying a new cargo e-bike would help boost your carrying capacity and range. Equally, for the aesthetically conscious, the latest breed of e-road bikes are almost indistinguishable from a non-powered bike at first glance. Then again, both those options are much more expensive than a conversion.

How we test

Where we’ve been able to link to a review, it means that we’ve put the ebike conversion kit through its paces. We’ve assessed how easy it is to fit and maintain as well other factors such as quality of the components and battery life and charge time. Riding the bike once fitted with the kit, we’ve taken into account the ride quality, the ease of use and the battery range.

Where we haven’t yet had the chance to review an item, we’re still confident in recommending it as one of the best, because we either know the brand really well, and have probably tested another product or the previous version and can still happily recommend it as one of the best.

What’s better? Mid-Drive Motor or Hub Motor for e-bikes?

Electric bikes are one the fastest growing personal transportation vehicles in the market. The background to its popularity is that people are now looking for alternative ways to get around, and due to their convenience, zero-emission, easy-to-use and exceptional pedal assistance technology it is easy to understand why people are drawn to them. The motor electric bike will get you wherever you need to go faster and further than ever before when compared to a normal pushbike.

In the market today, there is a broad range of brands, models, motor sizes and to choose from. This might make it hard to understand what to look for when choosing the perfect eBike for you and what type of features you need. Especially when it comes to the bike motor. Like, what is the difference between a mid-drive motor and a hub motor? What bike motor is the best for me?

What is a Hub Motor?

A hub motor is the most common motor to be found on cheaper electric bicycles. The motor is either built into the front or rear wheel. the back wheel being the most common. It is positioned on the hub of the wheel and applies torque directly to the wheel, making the tires spin.

It functions independently from the e-bike’s gears, so instead of adding a motor that is powering the wheels by gears or chain (like mid-drive), the hub motor is positioned directly on the wheel so that the motor and wheel are one and the same.

What is a Mid-drive motor?

The mid-drive motor and gears are integrated into the pedal shaft of the eBike. between the pedals. It transfers power directly to the chain or belt which in turn drives power to the wheel. Meaning it is influenced by the gears. This type of motor is generally found on more expensive electric bicycles.

There are both advantages and disadvantages of each type of motor. This also varies depending on the manufacturer, but generally speaking, there are some known pros and cons when it comes to these motors. Let’s have a look.

Pros and cons of Hub Motor

An E-bike with a hub motor is often more affordable due to its cheap production costs. As mentioned before, there is either a front or a rear hub motor, and this will impact the way the bicycle rides. As the hub engine is positioned on the wheel, spinning the wheel directly, riders tend to feel like they are being pulled (front hub motor) or pushed (rear hub motor) along. This can be great for people with joint or hip problems, as it requires less pedal effort but still generates great power. Perfect for use as a rehabilitation tool.

As the engine is independent of the gears, the rider does not need to change its pedal stroke to reduce chain and cassette wear. Instead, it can pedal through the strokes like on regular push bikes.

In addition, the hub engine and the pedal drive system are completely independent, meaning riders can lose one. say for example the chain. and still be able to ride home on just the electric power. Or if the engine fails, then the chain system will still work. This is great for longer rides, if something happens and the rider is far from home, they can still continue pedalling.

Because the hub is positioned on the bike wheel, it is more exposed to the environment and faced with a higher risk of something loosening in the hub. therefore often needs more maintenance than a mid-drive.

However, hub engines do help minimise other bicycle wear as the hub does not connect to the main pedal drive system. Meaning it does not add any extra stress to the chain or shifters, and therefore does not cause any wear to those parts. If anything, the eBike’s chain will probably last longer than a regular bike because the hub motor is doing most of the work, allowing the chain to rest.

The disadvantage of the motor is that it only allows a single gear ratio. While this is normally not a problem on straight roads and lower speed riding, but having a higher gear option would have been beneficial for uphill climbs.

These bicycles are also often more heavy than a mid-drive bike. Along with the fact that the hub is positioned either at the front or back, it can cause the feeling of weight imbalance. And riders tend to feel like the bicycle is unnatural to handle due to its push and pull feel.

In other cases, the added weight might be positive, as it might be nice to have that extra weight either at the back or front of the wheel. This makes the most sense on electric bicycles with rear positioned batteries, as having the motor in the front would offset the weight imbalance and stabilise the motorized vehicle. In addition, hub bikes are considerably quieter when operating than mid-drive bicycles.

Some well-known brands offering hub motor electric bikes are Orbea, Super73, Dyson and Vallkree.

Pros and cons of Mid-drive Motor

The mid-drive motor was created to improve some of the shortcomings identified in a hub engine.

In general, mid-drive engines are considered more of an efficient, comfortable and balanced ride than a hub drive. Riders tend to feel more natural maneuvering this type of vehicle.

The mid-drive is located in the centre of the bike, right underneath the rider, meaning riders tend to feel more balanced and allows for more of a natural feel when maneuvering the motorized bike than with a hub-motor. A great example of this is the SmartMotion Mid City e-Bike which provides smooth power output without jerking the vehicle.

The biggest advantage of a mid-drive motor is that they require little to no maintenance, as the engine’s components are enclosed in the motor casing. This element also provides more protection against the environment than a hub motor.

Another benefit that mid-drive engines have over hub engines is their gear ratio. The gear ratio enables the rider to spin the back wheel through the same gear and chain set as the pedals. This means that a low gear is available for quick accelerating at a stand-still position or steep uphill climbs with massive torque. It makes it possible for mid-drive bicycles to easily power through uphills in low gear than a hub motor.

Additionally, mid-drive motors are known to be lighter and smaller than a hub motor of the same class of motor power. Specialized recently introduced the Specialized Turbo Levo SL a series of Specialized SL 1.1 mid-drive electric mountain bikes weighing down to only 17.5kg. The harder you pedal with these bikes the faster and further you go.

The disadvantage of a mid-drive engine is that it can be harsh on your drive system. Snapped chains are probably the most frequent maintenance issue when it comes to mid-drive e-bikes. Riders also need to pedal harder in order to generate power, which might not be ideal for someone with ligament problems looking for a rehabilitation tool. But great for someone looking for a workout while earning the benefits of considerably more power, distance range and speed.

Even though the bicycle’s motor is an important component of the bike, there are other features you need to consider when buying an e-bike in order to find one that is perfect for your riding style.

Check out our Electric Bikes Buying Guide for more tips on what to look for when purchasing your ideal ride.

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