FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS. Triple battery ebike

Triple battery ebike

Electric pedal-assisted bikes, also known as E-bikes or electric bikes, offer a spectrum of benefits for different kinds of rides and riders, and aim to break down barriers that prevent us from taking longer, faster rides. Each E-bike in our lineup has a pedal assist motor that runs on a frame-integrated, rechargeable battery. One question we get all the time is: how long will my E-bike battery last on one charge? The not-so simple answer: It depends. We know, WE KNOW: that’s not that helpful, but hear us out. There are a lot of factors that affect just how far your battery will last, and once you understand them, you’ll be better at estimating how many miles you have before you need to recharge.

But, before you can get a clear picture of how to maximize your E-bike battery life, you’ll need a quick run-down of the technology that goes into making your E-bike… well… go. We’ve tried to put our tech jargon into simple terms here. Read on for detailed descriptions of each model of battery and motor, and how they interact on your bike.

Liv’s Four Battery Options

Our E-bikes are built with one of three batteries that power the motor: the EnergyPak Smart, the EnergyPak Smart Compact, or the EnergyPak Side Release. Also available is the EnergyPak Plus, a small backup battery. All four rechargeable batteries detach from the frame and can be plugged in either on or off the bike, depending on how accessible your outlet is.

The strength of each battery is measured in watt hours (Wh)—a unit totally different from watts, which many cyclists use to measure their own power output at any given moment as they ride. But mainly: The higher the watt hour of your bike’s battery, the more power it can hold.

frequently, asked, questions, triple, battery, ebike

The EnergyPak Smart is the highest-capacity battery available for our E-bikes, ideal for long, intense rides where you’ll be using a large amount of pedal assistance or encountering a lot of loose gravel, snow, mud, or other unpaved terrain. The slim, streamlined battery is integrated right into the frame of the bike for a clean look and feel. It comes in three different watt hour (Wh) versions: 625, 500, and 400 (if the bike you buy comes with the 400 or 500 Wh battery, it’s compatible for an upgrade). All three Wh levels of the battery charge from dead to 80 percent in under three hours.

The EnergyPak Smart Compact is our 500 Wh electric road bike battery, which has the sleekest profile designed to help your E-bike blend in with a fleet of non-electric road bikes. Both the EnergyPak Smart and EnergyPak Smart Compact have aluminum casing to help prevent overheating, for both safety and battery-life extension purposes.

The EnergyPak Side Release comes on many of our commuter E-bikes and entry-level electric mountain bikes, shaped specifically to fit into step-through models. It’s available in 500 Wh and 400 Wh and slides into the side of the downtube, rather than removing from the bottom the previous two batteries listed. EnergyPak side release’s waterproof rating is IPX5, slightly less than the rest of Liv’s batteries (IPX6, which can withstand a bit more pressure).

If you’re taking an extra-long trip where you might need extra battery life before you reach a place you can recharge, the EnergyPak Plus, a 250 Wh backup battery, is available. It’s small, lightweight, and can be mounted directly to your downtube to add more miles to your ride. It charges relatively quickly, up to about 80 percent capacity in just two hours, so you can change up your main battery and this one in a single evening.

Liv’s Three Motor Options

Our E-bikes have a motor located near the bottom bracket that gives you assistance in turning the pedals, also called pedal assist. The three motors were developed in cooperation with Yamaha, and include the SyncDrive Pro, the SyncDrive Sport, and the SyncDrive Core. All three motors are equipped with multiple sensors that detect even the slightest change in your cadence, power input, and speed. This allows the motor to blend the assistance it’s giving you into your pedal stroke in the most natural way possible; it engages smoothly and gradually, increasing input to match yours. Our E-bikes are designed to emphasize and support your own power and fitness, so there is no throttle you can push to make it go. You have to pedal—but how hard you pedal is up to you.

Our top-end E-bikes come with the SyncDrive Pro. It’s the most powerful motor with the fastest engagement, meaning it feels the most touchy of the three, so it’s great for intense bursts of power to get through tricky uphill sections or steep punchy climbs on a mountain bike. The highly sensitive motor engages even if you’re pedaling super lightly and quickly (up to 170 rpm).

The SyncDrive Sport motor comes on most of our mid-priced bikes, and offers a less-punchy engagement than the Pro. Since it’s more conservative with its power, it tends to use less battery over time than the high-powered Pro as well.

frequently, asked, questions, triple, battery, ebike

The SyncDrive Core is the lightest-duty motor that comes on many of our E-commuter, and entry-level E-mountain bikes. It offers the smoothest engagement with the most gradual increase of assistance, so it is the most battery-conserving option of the three. And—bonus—it’s also the quietest.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

  • Get to where you need to go faster and easier than on a regular bike. Depending on how you choose to ride, you can travel without significant effort at up to 20mph on some bikes and even up to 28mph on others.
  • Climbing hills is a breeze. and we aren’t talking about the breeze from huffing and puffing.
  • No sweat. Even though you can ride much faster, you won’t feel like you have to take a shower once you are there.
  • Safer. That might seem counter-intuitive, since you can go faster than on a regular bike, but you also get an easier start from stopped positions, allowing you to get through an intersection steadier and quicker. When climbing steep hills with cars nearby you can FOCUS more of your energy on controlling the bike instead of propelling the bike.
  • Easier on those joints. Use the electric assist to ease the pressure on your knees and hips.
  • Staying together. You may have a riding partner that rides at a different pace than you. An e-bike can even out the pace for both of you.
  • Ditch the car. The convenience, the ease and the speed of an electric bike make it an alternative to an automobile more often than a regular bike. A study by Portland State University shows that e-bike owners ride more frequently and farther than when they relied on their traditional bike. This was the case for all age groups.
  • It’s FUN. Just try one and you’ll see. Or catch a friend coming back from their first test ride with a big smile on their face.

Do I need a license?

No. As long as the e-bike has a motor size of 750 watts or less (1000 watts in Oregon) and is programmed so that it can’t go more than 20mph without pedaling, there is no need for a license. No electric bike sold by Cynergy E-Bikes requires licensing. FYI – you must be at least 16 years of age to operate an e-bike in public places.

Where can I ride my e-bike?

First and foremost, make sure your bicycle with an electric motor is classified as an e-bike. The definition of an e-bike and rules on where to ride will vary state by state. For federal land the rules vary depending on the branch of government. For the most complete resource, check out PeopleforBikes.org

For Oregon, you can ride an e-bike on:

  • Any bike lane on the street.
  • Shared use paths that are reserve for bicycles and pedestrians
  • For state parks, you can ride on paved trails that allow bicycles, but check with the individual park’s management for their rules for unpaved trails. It varies from park to park.
  • Any trail where motor vehicles are permitted, such as unpaved forest service roads.

In Oregon, you must be at least 16 years old to ride an e-bike on public property. While most states have motor wattage limits of 750 watts, Oregon’s limit is 1000 watts.

  • National Parks – opportunities are expanding, but check with the park.
  • Bureau of Land Management trails – the trend is to allow e-bikes wherever non-electric bikes are allowed, but we advise you to check with BLM office that manages that trail.
  • U.S. Forest Service – opportunities are expanding, but check with the Forest Service.
  • Another resource for finding mountain bike trails where e-bikes are allowed is People for Bikes nationwide EMountain Biking Map.

What about theft?

As best as we can determine, e-bikes don’t get stolen with any more frequency than non-electric bikes. That’s most likely because people tend to lock them up better and because a bike thief needs to get a charger and a battery key to make the bike truly saleable.

The best ways to protect your bike from theft are:

  • Get a high-quality bike lock. Cable locks are way too easy to cut. High-quality u-bolts and folding locks are better.
  • If you are parking your bike in your garage, lock your garage. It’s probably the #1 location we’ve seen bikes get stolen from.
  • When in public, lock your bike in a visible location.

Do I need special insurance?

Check with your insurance company. Some insurance companies do not treat e-bikes as bicycles, so you may need to get a rider added to your homeowners/renters insurance for theft protection. You can also check with two bicycle specialty insurers – Velosurance.com and Spokeinsurance.com.

Aren’t electric bikes heavy?

As one of our customers told us, “E-bikes might be heavy to lift, but they are heavenly to ride.”

Electric bikes are typically heavier than regular bikes. But the weight of any bicycle (electrical or non-electrical) is felt the most when climbing hills. The electric assist on an e-bike makes up for the additional weight many times over. Where weight does matter is if you need to lift the bike. That’s one of the many reasons why e-bikes are favored over electric scooters, which often weigh 150 pounds or more.

If you have to climb several flights of stairs to store your bike, we strongly suggest finding a more accessible storage location.

CHARGING, BATTERIES RANGE

Do electric bikes recharge when applying brakes or going down hill – like a hybrid car’s regenerative braking?

It’s rare and the concept doesn’t work very well. A few models of electric bikes include a feature to recharge the battery, usually while you are braking. In those cases the range of the battery can be extended 5-10%, while adding several hundred dollars to the cost. However, due to the design of the motors that provide regeneration, you’ll often find that the bike is harder to pedal if you are using the bike with the power off.

What is the range I can get from a single charge?

The biggest factor contributing to your range is whether you pedal or just use a throttle without pedaling, along with what level of assist you use. Cynergy E-bikes is a strong proponent of the synergy cynergy resulting from combining human pedal power with electric power, so we’ll tell you the expected range when you do both. With relaxed pedaling expect 22-50 miles on a single charge for most e-bikes. In some cases you’ll go even farther. We have bikes that are getting 80 miles on a single charge. Range will also be impacted by the battery capacity, the hills, wind and your size. Many electric bikes pedal easily as regular bikes. So you can extend the range even further by using little or no power on level surfaces and down hill.

How long does it take to charge an e-bike battery?

A lithium ion ebike battery that is fully depleted will take 3.5 to 6 hours to recharge. Batteries that still have a partial charge when you start charging will take less. In addition, the last hour or so of a charge is used to “top-off” the cells, and you don’t have to wait for that process to be completed. So some batteries can be 90% charged in 2.5 hours or less.

How many charges can I get out of a battery?

Most e-bike batteries sold in North America are lithium-ion, which will provide a minimum of 500 full charge cycles at which point the battery will hold about 80% of its original capacity. Some batteries can deliver up to 1200 charge cycles. If you recharge the battery when it is only 50% depleted, that counts as only 1/2 of one charge cycle. If you usually use your e-bike in pedal-assist mode, combining both pedal power and electric power, you can expect to go 10,000-30,000 miles before replacing your battery. That is a lot of miles on a bicycle.

How much electricity does it take to charge a battery?

Depending on the capacity of the battery, it will usually take 500-800 watt hours (0.4. 0.8 kilowatt hours) to charge the battery. Assuming a rate of 0.10/kWh, it will cost you 5-8 cents for a charge that will last you 20-80 miles.

MOTORS, SPEED PERFORMANCE

What is the difference between Class 1, Class 2 and Class 3 electric bikes?

This system of classifying electric bikes is being adopted by several states as a means of regulating electric bikes. The classifications are as follows:

  • Class 1. is a bicycle equipped with a motor that provides assistance only when the rider is pedaling (thus no throttle), and that ceases to provide assistance when the bicycle reaches the speed of 20 miles per hour.
  • Class 2. is a bicycle equipped with a throttle that can propel the bike up to a maximum of 20mph with the rider pedaling, and may also have the ability to achieve up to 20mph with the rider assisting, without the use of a throttle.
  • Class 3. also known as a “speed pedal-assisted electric bicycle,” is a bicycle equipped with a motor that provides assistance only when the rider is pedaling, and that ceases to provide assistance when the bicycle reaches the speed of 28 miles per hour.

For all classes, the maximum power output is 750 watts (1 h.p.).

Several states, including our neighbor to the north, Washington, have adopted regulations that use this class system. Our home state, Oregon, has not yet done so.

Perhaps the most important aspect of this classification system is how some states are treating Class 3 e-bikes. While these bikes are permitted in bike lanes on streets, they can be restricted from shared use paths, such as those in parks and “rails-to-trails” paths that are designed to be shared by cyclists and pedestrians.

Should I buy a bike with a mid-drive motor or hub-motor?

They both have their benefits. Hub motors tend to be a little easier to operate if you are a less experienced cyclist, because they require less shifting of gears. Mid-drives tend to get a little better range for equivalent battery capacity, because you’ll get more efficiency by shifting. While theoretically you get better hill climbing with a mid-drive, you’ll usually find both types will climb just about any hill.

Finally, it’s usually easier to change a rear tire with a mid-drive.

But the real test of determining which type of motor is best for you is to ride both and compare.

What’s the difference between a cadence-sensor and a torque-sensor?

With a torque sensor, the power that is delivered is increased in proportion to the amount of pedal force the rider is applying. So as you pedal harder, the motor automatically delivers more assist. As you reduce pressure, you get a little less assist. It’s essentially amplifying whatever power you are applying to the pedals. You have multiple levels of pedal-assist, with each level representing a higher or lower amplification of your own power. A torque-sensor can feel more like riding a conventional bicycle than a cadence-sensor. It also tends to deliver power smoother.

A cadence-sensor, perhaps more appropriately called a crank-sensor, delivers a uniform amount of assist at each assist level, regardless of the amount of pressure you are applyng. It is activated just by getting the crank turning. Because a cadence-sensor is not reading your pedal pressure, the power delivery is not quite as smooth or “bike-like”. But it’s fairly easy to adapt your use of the controls to smooth out the power delivery. Some people prefer a cadence-sensor because it tends to provide a great sensation of power without applying much pedal pressure.

The best way to know which type of pedal-assist is right for you is to try them both.

How fast can an electric bike go?

If you are pedaling, you can go as fast as you are able to pedal it. However, most bikes stop providing electric assist while pedaling at 20 mph (Class 1 and Class 2 ebikes). Some will provide assist going at speeds up to about 28 mph (=45 kilometers per hour – Class 3 ebikes.)

How important is motor wattage? (also. I’m really big, so don’t I need a 1000-2000 watt motor? or. I want to go fast, so don’t I need a lot of wattage?)

The benefits of a high wattage motor are very overstated. A street legal e-bike in Oregon can go only 28mph, and only 20mph unless you are pedaling (and we recommend pedaling). You’ll be able to get that with even some 250 watt motors.

With a properly designed e-bike and e-bike motor, you’ll find that you get far more power than you need with 500 watts or less. There are many 250 watt motors that deliver as much torque as motors that are 500 watts or higher. The design of the motor and the gearing of the bike are far more important than the wattage of the motor.

Higher wattage correlates with higher power consumption, so using a higher wattage motor means you’ll need a bigger battery to go the same distance. The most expensive part of your e-bike is the battery, thus a larger motor, requires a larger battery which leads to higher cost.

As for hauling a lot of weight, we have several 300lbs customers that do fine at 250-350 watt motors.

Can I ride an e-bike as a regular bike. without the electric power?

Yes. And it is easy to switch back and forth. For example, you might want to use the power only when you are going up hills.

Do I have to pedal?

It depends on the bike. Some electric bikes sold in North America allow you to operate by simply turning the throttle without pedaling. Europeans have stricter rules, requiring that you pedal. which we support. If you think you’ll get by without pedaling, think again. Even for e-bikes that have a throttle, you’ll need to pedal when going up long, steep hills, although you won’t have to pedal hard. Pedaling is more fun, extends the range of your battery, extends the life of your motor, and extends your own life too.

SERVICE

Is servicing an e-bike any different than a regular bike?

Look at an e-bike as being comprised of two groups of parts – mechanical and electric.

  • Mechanical parts are the same parts that you’ll see on non-electric bikes. Servicing mechanical parts can be performed at any bike shop. You might find that your bike parts might wear a little faster than on a non-electric bike – especially brake pads, chains, cogs and tires. But that’s because most people put many more miles on their e-bike. There is some basic maintenance that you can do on your own, like keeping your tires properly inflated and lubricating your chain. For some basic bike maintenance tips, check out our recommended maintenance videos.
  • The electrical parts don’t require any maintenance. If you do run into a problem with an electrical part, you’ll want to go to a shop that has some expertise in servicing e-bikes. While not really a maintenance task, you do want to make sure that the battery keeps some charge in it. If you don’t, it might discharge to a point so low that you can’t charge it anymore, thus killing your battery – an expensive mistake to make.

Cynergy E-Bikes has a complete service department for both mechanical work and electrical work, with expertise servicing electrical parts for from many different e-bike brands.

CLIMATE AND WEATHER

How much will I reduce my carbon footprint if I use an ebike instead of a car?

Our favorite question! In Oregon, which depends on hydropower and wind more than coal and gas, it takes the carbon footprint of over 60 e-bikes to equal the carbon footprint of one single occupancy, gasoline-powered car. In states that depend more on coal, it might be around 20-30 e-bikes compared to one car. No matter how you calculate it, even though an ebike uses electricity that might come from fossil fuels, the amount of CO2 emitted compared to a car is miniscule.

What about leaving my electric bicycle out in the rain?

The motor and battery are sufficiently sealed to be protected from the rain. However, we do suggest that if you are carrying your bike on the back of a car and rain is in the forecast, that you place the battery inside the car. Driving 70mph in a downpour with the battery exposed is like pressure-washing your battery. That’s a lot different than riding your bike in the rain.

Himiway Launches 3 New Models Including Their First Ever Dual Battery Ebike

Until now, Himiway has focused solely on fat tire ebikes, a category that has served them well. In their latest ebike drop in late 2021, four new fat tire ebikes were released. Now the company is switching things up. Two of these new ebikes will appeal to those who love the Himiway ebikes but want something a bit more nimble and lightweight.

But don’t worry fat tire fanatics, Himiway released their longest-range ebike yet, and yes, it’s a fat tire bike. For 2023, we have three new additions, the Himiway Pony, Rambler and finally, the Rhino. Let’s dig into the lineup and be sure to keep an eye out for our Himiway reviews of these models on YouTube.

Himiway Pony: Lightweight and Affordable

The Himiway Pony diverges from anything Himiway is known for. In fact, it’s not even an ebike because it lacks pedals altogether. It’s affordable, at just 499 for the 5Ah model and 599 for the 10Ah variation. Unsurprisingly, the Pony uses a 36-volt system compared to the 48-volt systems most often found on ebikes. Himiway is touting a range of up 20 miles on the larger battery though I imagine most riders will get around half that.

frequently, asked, questions, triple, battery, ebike

The Pony is one of those last mile, or last-few-mile mobility solutions. It’s got a 300-watt motor with Kenda 20 x 2.4″ tires. The short wheelbase and small frame mean this ebike is easy to transport.

Hauling it up a set of stairs or bringing it inside shouldn’t be too much of a hassle since it only weighs 33 lbs (35 lbs for the larger battery version). It’s just 50.4″ long, with the handlebars reaching 41.7″ high, though they are telescoping both for adjustability and portability. The Himiway Cruiser above gives scale to just how tiny the Pony is.

The motor is engaged with a right hand twist grip throttle and it will get you going up to 16 mph. Stopping power is provided by the single rear mechanical disc brake. Offered in 5 different colors, the Pony starts shipping in April 2023.

Our review of the Himiway Pony

So who’s this for? Some may laugh at this ebike, but trust me there is a market. It reminds me of the Jetson Bolt ebike, which is also compact, though with a pretty different design due to the small wheels. I’ve seen a surprising amount of Jetson ebikes during my travels. People commuting or simply those just looking for a super affordable ebike that is capable of short trips.

Himiway Rambler: Commuter/City Ebike

New to the Himiway lineup is the Rambler, a fully outfitted commuter or city ebike. This is the model that I imagine most people were waiting for. Fat tire ebikes can be heavy, and not everyone feels comfortable riding them. The Rambler is also more nimble with its 27.5 x 2.4″ tires, and even better, it’s a step-thru frame design for increased accessibility.

What’s interesting is the Rambler starts at 1,299 with a hub motor and mechanical disc brakes. Want hydraulic disc brakes? Just 200 more. And for those that want a mid-drive ebike, the price is 2,199. So Himiway is letting customers choose between three different options without having to go with a different model/frame.

Both motors are rated at 500 watts and come with slightly above-average 15Ah batteries. On the mid-drive Rambler is a Bafang M600 motor with 120 Nm of torque. It’s paired with Bafang’s color LCD screen in the cockpit.

Himiway has also spec’d the bike with a large 500-lumen integrated headlight. Fenders, a rear rack, and integrated brake light are also included. The Rambler will be offered in “Himi Grey”, pearl white and mint green.

Our review of the Himiway Rambler

We always like to see affordable ebikes that still offer good components for the price and that’s what the Rambler offers in its base-level configuration. While there are a few companies offering city-style ebikes in the 1,300 range, it’s nice to have choices. For those that want hydraulic brakes, 200 seems like a reasonable price to pay, but even more, there are few choices for mid-drive ebikes at the low 2000 mark. Plus, the M600 is a tried and true motor from Bafang, and that 120 Nm of torque should power riders up any hill.

Himiway Rhino: Prioritizing Dual Batteries

Himiway couldn’t release ebikes without a fat tire model. Enter the Himiway Rhino and Rhino Pro. The Rhino is offered in two variations, both with dual batteries. The 1000-watt hub motor (90 Nm torque) Rhino model is priced at 2,999, and the 1000-watt (160 Nm torque) mid-drive “Rhino Pro” is priced at 3,999. Both models have throttles and are capable of speeds up to 28 mph while pedaling (20 mph on throttle alone).

Both bikes come with two 48V 15Ah batteries for a total of 30Ah of capacity (1440 watt-hours). One battery is housed internally in the top tube and the other in the downtube. Due to the large battery, the Rhino is no lightweight at 97 lbs, something potential buyers will want to consider.

This isn’t a typical fat tire ebike either, Himiway decided to go with extra wide 26″ x 4.5″ tires for those who plan to venture off the beaten path. The Rhino comes equipped with hydraulic disc brakes, integrated lights, fenders, and a rear rack. Color options are midnight forest and “Himi grey”.

Our review of the Himiway Rhino

The Rhino is geared towards those who really want to extend their adventures. It’s on the pricey side for a fat tire ebike which can be found typically for between 1,500 and 2,000, but the Rhino offers double the battery capacity of the average fat tire ebike. This bike is also powerful, no matter which motor you choose.

Our Take on the Himiway 2023 Launch

This is quite the diverse lineup, and no one can argue that Himiway isn’t exploring other types of ebikes and what people want out of their ebike. We’re most excited about the Rambler, given its value price point. The Pony and Rhino will appeal to more specific use cases. Let us know in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев section below which Himiway model you’d like us to review in depth.

Triple battery ebike

The battery for your electric bike is typically worth about a third of the value of the entire bicycle, so it’s important to find a good quality one and take care of it.

In the case of Pedego Canada, we offer a 5 Year Prorated Battery Warranty with all our electric bikes, which is one of the best in the business. Why we’re so confident in our batteries is the quality of the cells within them. If you take nothing else away from this post, remember this: do not buy an electric bike with anything less than a five year battery warranty and do your best to purchase a battery by one of the “big three” name-brand cells: Samsung, Panasonic or LG. Cheap electric bicycles like the kind you find at Costco do not have the quality of manufacturing or warranty that will ensure you can enjoy the bike for years. It’s our recommendation that you spend a bit more money up front to save you from headaches (or worse – the garbage dump or even a fire!) later.

No matter what electric bike you buy nowadays, chances are it runs on a lithium-based battery. Believe it or not lithium batteries have been around since 1912 but it’s only been in the last 15 years that they caught on and became economical in consumer applications. There are “lithium-ion” batteries and “lithium polymer” (aka “lithium-ion polymer”) batteries and the difference between them is the type of electrolyte used. Other than that, there isn’t a significant variance: Li-Polymer allows for a slight increase in energy density but is 10-30% more expensive and so manufacturers have yet to decide upon one over the other.

There is also a range of lithium chemistries available in different batteries and manufacturers might claim some are more robust than others but the single most important factor affecting the life of a battery is how well it is looked after. You should typically expect a battery to last between 3 and 5 years if it is well maintained. (A lithium-ion battery will slowly lose its capacity over time, even if it’s not used.) Below are three things you can do to ensure you get the longest usage out of your electric bike battery.

#1. Keep The Battery Cool

Environmental conditions are an important factor affecting lithium-ion batteries. For example, leaving one in your car in the hot sun will guarantee you lessen the life of your battery. In fact, that would be the worst situation: keeping a fully charged battery at elevated temperatures. It’s a good rule of thumb to store your bike out of the direct sunlight for long periods and when not in use, keep your battery in a cool place, preferably below 20°C (68°F). The chart below, provided by Battery University, shows the impacts of temperature upon recoverable capacity of a battery.

#2. Store A Battery Partially Charged – But Not Too Low!

You’ll also notice in the above chart that storing a fully-charged battery has an impact on the recoverable capacity. Even more important, storing a fully depleted battery may be disastrous because, as we mentioned above, a lithium-ion battery will slowly discharge over time even when you’re not using it. If the voltage drops below a certain point this may cause irreparable cell damage, depending on the time it’s left sitting. Ideally, when storing the battery for a long period, ensure it has a charge between about 80% and 40% of a full charge. Some chargers have a lower ‘storage’ voltage setting, so just switch to this before charging it for storage. An easy alternative is to take the bike for a ride after you’ve charged it fully and before storing.

Also, don’t leave your battery on the charger for long periods of time, as storing it at or close to 100% will reduce the life of the battery. You can also check your battery every couple of months over winter. If you notice that the battery indicator has dropped too low, you can give it a quick charge to bring it back to the ideal storage voltage (this is unlikely to be needed if the battery was at 40% or above). If you don’t have a battery indicator, it’s probably a good idea to charge the battery for half an hour every few months. Again, try not to put the battery away fully charged (but it won’t be the end of the world if this happens.)

#3. Don’t Regularly Fully Discharge Your Battery

It’s amazing that we still see tech sites advising regular full discharge of your battery, even when this has been proven as detrimental. The chart below, again provided by Battery University, proves that regularly discharging lithium-ion batteries to 0% is harmful and partial discharges with regular top-ups are recommended to extend the recharge-cycle lifespan of the batteries. The occasional full discharge on that extra long ride is no problem! It’s ok to top up lithium-ion batteries regularly and, as the chart below shows, it’s best to operate them in the top half of their discharge cycle; lithium-ion batteries don’t have a ‘memory effect’ that some other battery chemistries have. If you are doing short rides on a regular basis, it is slightly better to charge it every few rides rather than every ride (to avoid long periods at or close to 100% charge, as discussed above).

As an extra note for the winter season, make sure your battery is above freezing before charging, otherwise you could harm the cells. It is no problem to ride the bike in below-freezing conditions (it doesn’t harm the battery), just make sure you let the battery warm up before charging. When you are riding in very cold weather, you will notice a drop in power and range; this is normal and expected. You can help avoid this by bringing the battery inside whenever you aren’t riding to keep the temperature of the battery up. That way you will get that extra bit of power!

Correct maintenance and storage of your battery as detailed above will significantly increase its lifespan. A well-maintained lithium-ion battery will last between three to five years, whereas a poorly maintained battery can be badly damaged over just one season or sooner. For more detailed, scientific information on batteries and how to care for them, check out the excellent online resource at Battery University, where the above charts came from.

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