Electric Bike Batteries for Eunorau, X-Treme, Revi, Bakcou, Quietkat
We carry a wide range of electric bike batteries, mostly for the brands that we carry. These include ebike batteries for Eunorau, X-Treme, Revi, and many more. Here are the ebike batteries offered by the brands we carry. If you need help replacing an ebike battery, give us a call. To learn more about electric bike batteries, you can read our Ebike Battery FAQ blog post.
Eunorau 48V/12.5Ah | 48V/17.5Ah Seat Tube Silver Fish Battery for E-FAT-MN E-FAT-STEP Eunorau from 399 499
Eunorau 48V/14Ah 48V/17Ah Second Battery Options for FAT-HS | G20-Cargo | Max-Cargo | Defender-S | Specter-S | Specter-ST | META275 META275 Step Thru Eunorau from 469 569
Eunorau 48V/15Ah | 48V/17Ah Replace and Upgrade Battery for FAT-HS Defender-S Eunorau from 499 599
Eunorau 48V/16Ah | 48V/25Ah Reention Dorado ID-MAX Battery for Fat-HD, Fat-AWD UHVO (48V) Eunorau 1 review from 499 599
Ebike Styles
Really Good Ebikes
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⚡Our Mission: Provide the best online ebike shopping experience, and help people start their own ebike businesses
Everything you need to know about e-bike batteries [from a battery engineer]
Would you be the person taking the stairs or the escalator?
I’ll be honest. barring the one-off day that I’m feeling particularly sprightly, I would just hop on the escalator with those 30 people on the right. And I’m willing to guess that most of you would too.
What we can gauge from this picture is that most people would rather do as little work as possible to get from point A to point B. This is especially true when it comes to commuting on a bike. The picture above is analogous to the difference between a regular bike and an e-bike.
Even if we address all the concerns when it comes to biking in a city (like safe biking infrastructure), we can’t expect to change fundamental human behavior. when given the option between less work or more work to achieve the same outcome, people will more likely choose to do less work.
Since getting my e-bike, I can comfortably bike from my home in Somerville to the Seaport district in Boston. a roughly 5-mile trip. in just about 20-minutes. All of a sudden, biking 5-miles is a piece of cake. I also don’t have to spend time sitting in traffic, waiting for public transit, or worry about showing up to a meeting looking like I swam across the Charles river to get there.
The beauty of an e-bike is that it makes cycling an inclusive mode of transportation because it doesn’t discriminate by age or physical ability.
When it comes to purchasing an e-bike though, there are a plethora of options for both the bike and battery. So how do you decide which one is best for your needs? As a battery engineer who has built hundreds of batteries and logged way too many hours soldering battery packs, here are my thoughts on the most commonly asked questions when it comes to e-bike batteries.
If you’re new to battery terminology, you might want to start here: Battery terms that every e-bike owner should know.
In this post, we’ll cover the following questions:
What is the best e-bike battery?
This is one of the hardest questions to answer. There are so many variables that go into what makes a good battery and what’s best for you, may not be the best for me. Even then, a good battery can perform poorly if it’s not cared for properly.
Battery packs are made up of individual battery cells. Cells are classified into cylindrical cells (like your AA and AAA) and prismatic cells (like the one in your phone). Each class of battery is manufactured in a variety of form-factors (in the battery world we use this term to mean size). The most commonly used form-factor of cells in an e-bike battery pack is the 18650.
A battery pack is only as good as it’s weakest cell.
When it comes to batteries, in my experience, there is a strong correlation between price and quality. I don’t follow this rule when it comes to most things like for example, box wine (I’m just saying, there are plenty of really good box wine options these days!). When it comes to batteries though, you really don’t want to be compromising on quality because you’ll eventually end up having to pay the price.
Here are some things to keep in mind when purchasing an e-bike:
Cell Manufacturers: Panasonic, LG, and Samsung have a good reputation in the battery industry for their high quality cells, so paying a premium for these cells is certainly worth it. If the e-bike you’re trying to buy doesn’t have or provide cell manufacturer information, they’re likely not going to be a reliable source anyway.
Cell Chemistry: Lithium-ion (li-ion) batteries are the best option for e-bikes. Although lead-acid batteries are significantly cheaper, they’re three times as heavy as their li-ion equivalents.
Li-ion has several variants of cell chemistry. The most popular ones for e-bikes are Nickel Manganese Cobalt (NMC), Lithium Cobalt Oxide (LCO), and Lithium Iron Phosphate (LFP). The metrics to look for when selecting a cell chemistry are:
- Specific Energy: has an impact on the range of your battery.
- Specific Power: how the battery handles high load scenarios like going up
- a hill.
- Safety: does the chemistry have a history of high in-field failures.
There are trade-offs when choosing one chemistry over another, but as we’ve shown in the image below, NMC and LFP are both great options that both offer the best value in terms of performance, price, and safety.
Picking the right battery chemistry has to do with figuring out what matters most to you. Do you want a battery that has a longer range (higher specific energy) but doesn’t have as much power? Or do you want a battery that has a more power (higher specific power) but may not last as long?
In my opinion, the best e-bike batteries are likely going to be made from cells manufactured by Panasonic, LG, or Samsung with either LFP or NMC cell chemistry.
What is the range of an e-bike battery?
The range of a battery pack depends on the amount of energy packed inside of it and is measured in Watt-Hours (Wh). Watt?
Watt-hours are calculated by multiplying the battery capacity, in Amp-hours, by the battery Voltage, in Volts.
Let’s assume that, on average, 1-mile requires about 25Wh of energy. So a 14Ah, 36V battery should get you about 25-miles per charge.
Keep in mind that the weight of the rider, outside temperature conditions, and the amount of pedaling will make a significant difference in range.
A word of caution: the range that e-bike manufacturers provide should be taken with a grain of salt. That number is generated from tests that are run in perfectly tailored lab conditions. Do you charge any of your electronics in an incubation chamber set at 28° C with a lab-grade charger that applies the perfect current while charging? Yeah, I don’t either. And so, We should assume that the manufacture-specified range is delivered only if the battery is charged and discharged under ideal conditions i.e. not real world conditions.
For a more realistic estimate, shave off 15% of the manufacturer specified range and assume this padded number to be your real range.
If you’re looking for a longer range, choose a battery that has higher capacity (Ah). If you’re looking for more power, choose a battery that has higher voltage (V). Learn more why voltage and capacity matter.
What is the lifespan of an e-bike battery?
There are several factors that affect the lifetime of a battery such as:
- environmental conditions: temperature during charging discharging
- charging rate: how fast or slow your battery is charged
- charging voltage: what voltage the battery is charged to
- depth of discharge (DoD): what voltage the battery is discharged to
The list above isn’t exhaustive but, in general, batteries decay as a function of time in the charged state. Period.
Day 1: You get your new e-bike and charge it up to 100% and go on a bike ride. When you come home, you charge the bike back up to 100% and you’re excited to ride it again soon.
Day 2. 364: Life get’s in the way and you still haven’t been out on your bike since that first ride.
Day 365: One year later, it’s the perfect day for a bike ride and you finally have some time on your hands. You head to your basement, unlock your bike, and excitedly turn it on. 80% charge. What? You clearly remember charging your bike to 100% last year before moving it to the basement!
The truth is, we can’t beat thermodynamics. I’ll say it again: batteries decay as a function of time in the charged state.
Now, because you left your battery at 100% for a whole year in a basement with no temperature control, you inadvertently caused your battery to lose a certain amount of irreversible capacity. Your range will be ~20% lower and you’ll likely have to replace your battery sooner than you expected. The table below shows you how much recoverable capacity exists in a battery after storing it at different temperatures and different charge states for 1-year.
This is why a lot of electronics come with batteries that are only partially charged. to help slow down this decay. That being said, it’s hard to track how long e-bikes and their batteries have been sitting in warehouses before being delivered to your door so you could get a battery that has been decaying for a year or two.
Manufacturers also tend to overrate their batteries and will make claims about certain batteries having a lifetime of at least 1,000 cycles. Show.me.the.data.
The lifetime of a lithium-ion battery is described as the number of cycles until the capacity (Ah) drops below 80% of it’s initial capacity. In general, this is roughly 250-400 cycles (depending on battery chemistry and other factors) which amounts to roughly 1.5 to 2 years if you charge discharge daily and care for your battery properly.
How to charge your e-bike battery to make it last longer
- The thing that will kill your battery faster than anything else is leaving it charged at elevated temperatures. If it’s 80 degrees outside and you have your e-bike fully charged, move it indoors where it’s cooler and try to drain the battery as soon as possible.
- Charge your battery at room temperature as often as possible.
- When sourcing an e-bike battery charger, the slower the charge rate the better. For example, if you have a 2-Amp charger, and your battery is a 14 Ah battery pack, you are charging at 14 Ah / 2-Amps = 7-hours. This is a nice, slow charge which will certainly improve the longevity of your battery pack. Avoid charging at rates that are faster than 2-hours for a full charge.
There’s a lot that goes into choosing the best battery for you e-bike, and there certainly isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach. But if I were buying an e-bike battery today, here’s what I’d do: LFP or NMC, slow charge, avoid storing or charging in hotter temperatures, and leave the battery at around 30% charge if you don’t plan on using it for a while.
Have questions? We’d love to help. You can get in touch using the contact form or find us on @somerville_ev
Also, subscribe below for alerts on our next post to learn more about batteries!
Lectric XP Spare Battery
NOTE: Riders should become familiar with their average battery use based on typical weight load, terrain, weather, and other conditions.
Product Specifications:
Compatibility:
Note: Battery Charger sold separately or with a purchase of an eBike
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Veterans Input.
The spare battery works good it helps me get back and forth to my part-time job. I am disabled veteran and this is my main source of transportation. It gets me to and from my medical appointments and therapy it has been an immense help to spare battery and the whole bike itself.
Lectric 2.0
This bike is amazing, I have over 4,000 miles on it in one year. I have changed the tires twice from being worn and I get a good price from the company on tires and tubes. I drive the bike to work and back. I have saved a lot of gas since then. The bike gets me 27 miles an hour. With a little pedaling I do an average of 50 miles a day.
What is the longevity of a battery
I am a happy owner of an early XP 1.0. I currently have 1,120 Mi on original battery. The first 800 plus was city riding paved roads the last 300s have been on dirt roads out in the country. How much longer you think it might be before I truly need a new battery? in the country on a dirt roads I’m getting 10 to 15 miles. City I was getting 20. and originally I was getting close to 50 with pedaling losing weight
Re-cells the e-bike battery
Adjusting the battery of the electric bike, i.e. replacing the battery cells! Making cells is clearly cheaper than a new battery. By repairing the old you will also save the environment.
We make cell cells for electric wheels, contact us and find out how your old battery can be saved!
Contact us by email info @ proakku.fi
When sending the battery, be sure to bring the charger! Why? Here are three reasons:
We check the performance of your charger – sometimes the battery malfunctions are caused by the charger used and does not fully charge the battery, for example.
After work, we will make sure that the battery is charged correctly and fully charged with your charger. After that, we can see the outcome of the work, i.e. what the power of the sensor was your aability to do.
This is all included in the job price!
Not in stock, only as backorder
Tuotetunnus (SKU): sahkopyora-akun-kennotus Osasto: Akkujen kennottaminen Avainsanat tuotteelle kennottaminen, kennotus, sähköpyörän akku
Description
The re-celling of a battery of the electric bike saves money and nature! Replacing the new battery cells is a cheaper way to get the wheels rolling again. The battery usually dies in winter because its voltage drops too low (less than 2.5V in the battery).
Batteries for use in electric wheels
In Finland, almost all e-bike batteries use li-ion or li-po battery cells. The advantage of lithium batteries is light weight and high capacity and power supply in relation to the size of the battery. The weakness of lithium batteries is sensitivity to overcharging or undercharging. For example, the battery cell 18650 li-ion, which is the most used battery cell for electric bikes, requires a charge of 2.5V to 4.2V. Therefore, aBMS (Battery Management System) (Battery Management System) has been added to the battery packs.
The function of the BMS is to monitor the cells in the battery pack and to interrupt the discharge or charge when the battery reaches the programmed voltage level. Due to bms, lithium batteries are quite simple because the cyclist does not have to measure the battery charge, but the BMS stops the power supply. Thus, the battery runs out before it reaches dangerously low voltage. So it’s the same as on the phone. The phone reports a battery charge of 0%, but in reality the battery still has power to prevent deep discharge from damaging it.
Probattery tips for maintaining the battery of an electric bike:
- Do not disassemble the battery too empty! If possible, do not disassemble the battery in less than 20% of the charge. The lithium battery starts to oxidize in too low a charge. Keep the battery in a 60-80% charge, especially when storing. In winter, it is a good idea to charge the battery every three months.
- If the battery is hot, allow it to cool down before charging. The battery may warm up when discharged with high current. Heat is especially the enemy of the li-po battery. Battery chemistry stays smoother and in good condition for longer if you do not charge the battery when it is hot.
- Keep the battery close to room temperature. The frosty winter in Finland absorbs the juices from the batteries if the battery is left cold. Similarly, temperatures above 40ºC over time interfere with chemical reactions in the battery. Take the battery in for the winter and in the summer store in the shade.
How long does the e-bike battery last?
The cyclist’s driving style affects the life of the battery. Hard accelerations require more power from the battery. The lithium battery can withstand about 500 recharges. This can be greatly reduced if the battery is constantly discharged with high currents. Some wheels prioritize the range and battery age by limiting the battery output.
Lithium battery performance is always a compromise between capacity and power supply. The maximum capacity of the 18650 battery is practically 3500mAh or 3.5Ah. The maximum power is approximately 35 amps from a battery cell of that size. However, these features can never be obtained in the same battery cell.
A high range is obtained by selecting a high-capacity battery sensor, such as Samsung 35E or LG MJ1. These 18650 batteries offer 3.5 Ah capacity, but the maximum discharge current is only 10 amps. If you want more power off your bike, you can choose between high discharge battery cells such as the Sony VTC5A or Molicell P26. These batteries have only 2.6Ah capacity, but a wild 35A power supply.
Of course, by connecting the batteries in the chest and series, you can get more familiar readings, such as 36V and 418Wh. Well, what do we just talk about amps and now all of a sudden watt lessons?
The Shimano BT-E6000 e-bike battery is powered by 18650 li-ion cells with a rated voltage of 3.6V. It can therefore be calculated that the battery is connected in a series of 10 batteries. 36V / 3,6V = 10.
The amps are obtained by dividing the wattage hours by voltage, i.e. volts. 418Wh / 36V = 11,61 Ah. Then, when it is known that shimano’s battery has 40 cells, 11.61Ah can be divided by four. Four because we already know that there are 10 batteries in a row, so in parallel 10 sticks there are four.
11,61Ah / 4 parallel connections = 2,9 Ah. So we know that the battery uses 40 pcs of 18650 batteries with a capacity of 2900mAh.
This is a good idea to know if you’re wondering which battery cells you’d use to update your e-bike battery.
What should I take into account in the battery of an electric bike?
The e-bike battery package can be built according to the user’s needs using high-capacity cells or high discharge cells. The most common need is to maximize travel, meaning we usually put LG MJ1 18650 cellsto provide 3.5Ah capacity per sensor. Another excellent, slightly cooler option is the Panasonic-Sanyo NCR18650GA 18650 battery cell,3.5Ah capacity and 10A discharge.
The lithium battery possible bms is also the hardest element in the battery. The BMS charge control circuits from the manufacturer have pre-programmed in-control. It involves not only monitoring battery performance, but also discussion sup with the bike management system. For example, the battery tells information about its charge to the bike‘s driving computer, which requires much more complex programming. Of course, e-bike manufacturers do not sell separately BMS circuits, but directly from new batteries.
BMS is the biggest challenge for the do-it-yourself construction. The battery pack may keep the battery dead if it has been empty for a long time. Even if the cells are loaded separately back into a good reserve, the programming of BMS cannot usually be changed at home. In this case, you will need to buy a new battery or put in a generic bulkkiBMS that monitors the battery cells, but does not know how to do anything else. Then the electric bike can run on an old battery, but it no longer knows the same tricks as the original.
Do-it-yourself e-bike battery
Only BMS status is an obstacle to those who are handy with their hands. If the BMS is very awake in the battery, but the battery cells are tired, the cells can be replaced.
Here’s a good example for english speakers in the video:
The video makes 13S2P, or 13 cells in series, 2 parallel battery packs. It uses Samsung INR18650-25R 18650 battery cellsthat provide 20A continuous discharge current and 2.5Ah capacity. The parallel connection of two cell lines means 5Ah capacity and 40A discharge current in the battery pack. 13 cells in a stick, i.e. when connected in series, make the battery pack 13x 3.6V = 46 V.
What does it take to get a battery?
When building the battery pack, the battery cells must be as close as possible to each other. In the worst case, if the battery has a high voltage difference, you can build a battery that has not worked.
Connecting the batteries into a battery pack is done by spot welding. Spot welding is practically the only working way, as knocking heats the battery too much and at worst spoils the entire cell.
Spot welding supplies electrical current to the welding site, which provides the heat required by the weld. The result is a very neat welding result and the battery cell remains intact.
For more information on how to design and build your battery, see https://www.instructables.com/ID/DIY-EBike-Battery-Pack/ Visit at least check out the images.
Custom-made e-bike battery
If your battery is running out of time, you can also send it to us. We’re analyzing the potential for that condition and re-encapitsion. After the measurements, we agreed with the customer which direction to go with the project. We can order any battery cell from the battery pack, including the new 20700 and 21700 battery cells.
The cost of work consists of battery cells and work done. Depending on the complexity of the battery, the work can cost 150-200 euros. As a result, we’ll send back a battery that probably has better features than original ones. (No need to use the most cheap cells, so you can maximize, for example, the capacity of the battery size within the limits allowed.)
The cells of the e-bike batteries depend a lot on the battery structure and desired features, so please contact us by email info @ proakku.fi
At least the battery model and preferably a picture of the battery should be attached to the message. Let’s build the batteries that are right for you!
You can send the battery to:
- Jesi Verkkokaupat Oy
- Pääskynlento 13 B 43
- 20610 Turku, Finland
- FINLAND
- 045 263 8565
- Don’t forget to bring the charger!