Ebike battery frame bag
Reinvent joyriding with Level.2. An upgrade to our flagship commuter ebike, Level.2 is as innovative as it is efficient. A fully integrated battery, four integrated lights, and a front suspension fork provide ultimate comfort and safety no matter the terrain or time of day. Equipped with preinstalled fenders and a rear rack, Level.2 can transport it all, from work essentials to picnic goodies, without the elements taking their toll. Aventon’s first electric bike engineered with a torque sensor means a more natural riding experience. Take control of your ride with Level.2 intuitively amplifying your effort or go against electric and pedal solely with your power.
An intuitive, color display shows your speed, battery charge, pedal assist level, distance traveled and more. In addition, it allows you to control your ebike’s class rating and integrated lights. Sync to the Aventon app to share your trips with your friends.
Level.2’s upgraded torque sensor recognizes how light or hard you’re pedaling, meeting you exactly where you’re at, amplifying your own power. Not only promoting a more natural riding experience but also conserving battery life and extending range!
Monitor your speed, battery life, distance traveled, and more mid-ride with the intuitive Color Display. Sync to the Aventon mobile app for additional riding data and to connect with the larger Aventon community!
A front suspension fork with up to 65mm of travel means you can ride anywhere and everywhere with comfort and confidence! Adjustable to match your preferences, Level.2 can absorb every bump in the road or be adjusted to your best feel on the road!
Pre-installed fenders will protect you from the elements, rain or shine, while an attached rear rack means you can transport all of your essentials, whether you’re heading out for a picnic or heading home from work!
Discover your level with a powerful 500W rear hub motor. Paired with a torque sensor and fully integrated fast-charging battery, you’ll get to your destination in record time with juice still to spare.
Five levels of pedal assist mean you’re in charge of how much or how little electric assist you get from your ebike, while a throttle will propel you at speeds up to 20 MPH, keeping you moving when pedaling is just an afterthought!
Aventon has the right without notice to the consumer to substitute components of at least equal quality for advertised Aventon ebike components in the event of the unavailability of such advertised components. info
I already have a pace and the level is a step up. The torque drive makes for a smoother transition and easier to start off. The shocks also smooth out the ride. However it is a bit harder to get a workout at a slower speed. Level seems much faster at assist 1.
I bought this to commute to work and now I take it everywhere. I live in Seattle, it climbs hills like a champ. The hills were always my barrier for regular bike commuting because let’s face it. who want to show up to a meeting all sweaty. This is the best purchase I’ve made in a long time!
Hi Stephanie, This is exactly what we love to hear! We’re glad you’re able to commute to work and be outside and more active. Thanks for the awesome review. Aventon
I love all the options and ease of use of this bike. Made me excited to ride. Lots of trips planned. Thank you
Coming from a level 1 step through there was something familiar about the level 2 when I rode it. The torque sensor really does make the ride more smooth. The new backlit display is bright and easy to see in the daylight. The brake light and side lights make me feel safer on my commute home from work at night. I honestly didn’t want to wait for someone to assemble it for me so I did it myself. I was a bit nervous but the bike is pretty much assembled on the package. I just had to watch the easy to follow instructions on the Aventon website. All in all it took me about an hour to assemble. I definitely recommend purchasing the level 2. you won’t be disappointed 🙂
Thank you for taking the time to leave feedback on your new e-bike! Cheers to many great rides and welcome to the Aventon Family!
I bought the Level 2 for my wife and she was having so much fun I decided to get a Level 2 for myself. I have been riding a roadie for 26 years. I am 75 years old and sometimes the knees get a little sore. This is something my wife and I can do together and keep up with one another. She gave up on standard bike riding because of her knees and now she has no problems. This is a well built bike and brings the joy of riding back in our lives. The bikes are heavier than normal but we purchased a ramp for our porch and we keep the bikes in the house. Buy one-you won’t regret it.
Hey Rider, Thank you for sharing this wonderful photo of your new e-bikes. We can’t wait to see where you both will go next! Don’t forget to register your e-bike at https://www.aventon.com/pages/bike-registration! Cheers, Aventon
if(window.innerWidth = 768) this.mobile = false else this.mobile = true ) if(window.innerWidth = 768) this.mobile = false else this.mobile = true. productTitle:. productDescription:. open: false, renderQuiz:. slideNumber: 0, width: 0, minSlide:0, maxSlide:0, direction: left, typeOfHeight: Inches, transition: true, updateSelection(fieldSet) fieldSet.querySelectorAll(div).forEach(div = let input = div.querySelector(label).querySelector(input) if(input input.checked) div.classList.add(!tw-border-cyan-300) this.storedAnswers[this.slideNumber] = parseFloat(input.value) else div.classList.remove(!tw-border-cyan-300) ). feetInputValidation(event, inches) if(event.target.value.length 1) event.target.value = event.target.value.substring(0, 1) this.updateHeight(this.slideNumber, inches, feet: (event.target.value ? parseInt(event.target.value) : 0). inches: ( inches.value ? parseInt(inches.value) : 0)). inchesInputValidation(event, feet) if(event.target.value.length 2) event.target.value = event.target.value.substring(0, 2) if(event.target.value 11) event.target.value = 11 this.updateHeight(this.slideNumber, inches, feet: (feet.value ? parseInt(feet.value) : 0), inches: (event.target.value ? parseInt(event.target.value) : 0)). centimetersInputValidation(event) if(event.target.value.length 3) event.target.value = event.target.value.substring(0, 3) if(event.target.value 251) event.target.value = 251 this.updateHeight(this.slideNumber, centimeters, parseInt(event.target.value)). storedAnswers:. updateHeight(slideNumber, type, value) let calculatedValue = type = centimeters ? Math.ceil(value / 2.54) : ((value.feet 12) (value.inches)) this.storedAnswers[slideNumber] = calculatedValue if(calculatedValue = 0 Object.keys(this.storedAnswers).includes(String(slideNumber))) delete this.storedAnswers[slideNumber]. getRecommendation: = console.log(No Logic Assigned). recommendation:. hide: false, currentProduct:. getCTA: = console.log(No Logic Assigned). buildSrcSet(imgURL) return `180w, 360w, 540w, 720w, 900w`. mobile: true ‘ @assign.window=’ (event) = console.log([Action] Fitguide. Assigning quiz.) renderQuiz = event.detail.quiz width = (slideNumber/(renderQuiz.slides.length. 1) 100) maxSlide = renderQuiz.slides.length. 1 storedAnswers = store.quiz.get(renderQuiz.quizName) ‘ @open.window=’ (event) = if(event.detail.quizName = renderQuiz.quizName) open = true dispatch(body-scroll, ) ‘ @logic.window=’ (event) = console.log([Action] Fitguide. Assigning logic.) getRecommendation = event.detail.logic ‘ @update.window=’ (event) = console.log([Action] Fitguide. Updating recommendation.) recommendation = event.detail.recommendation if(!recommendation.type) transition = false slideNumber = 1 setTimeout( = transition = true. 500) else if(recommendation.type = Step-Through || recommendation.type = Different-Model) fetch(`/products//.json`).then(data = data.json).then(data = recommendation =. recommendation. data.producttransition = false slideNumber = 1 setTimeout( = transition = true. 500) ).catch(err = console.log(err) ) ‘ @current.window=’ (event) = console.log([Action] Fitguide. Updating current product.) currentProduct = event.detail.current ‘ @cta.window=’ (event) = console.log([Action] Fitguide. Assigning CTA logic.) getCTA = event.detail.logic ‘ @close.window=’ (event) = console.log([Action] Fitguide. Closing Modal) open = false dispatch(body-scroll, ) ‘ @check.window=’ (event) = if(Object.keys(storedAnswers).length 0) console.log([Action] Fitguide. Check stored answers.) slideNumber = maxSlide 1 getRecommendation(storedAnswers, currentProduct.ID) hide = true transition = false setTimeout( = transition = true. 500) ‘ @updatecontent.window=’ (event) = console.log([Action] Fitguide. Content update.) productTitle = currentProduct.title productDescription = currentProduct.productDescription ? currentProduct.productDescription : event.detail.descriptionOverride ‘ @body-scroll=’ = document.body.style.overflow = open ? hidden : document.body.style.height = open ? 100% : auto if(open) const event = new Event(show.bs.modal); document.body.dispatchEvent(event); else const event = new Event(hidden.bs.modal); document.body.dispatchEvent(event); ‘ x-init=’watch(slideNumber, value = width = (slideNumber/(renderQuiz.slides.length. 1) 100))’
Ebike battery frame bag
Your lightweight, everyday e-bike
FX is an intuitive, fully equipped electric assist bike designed for exploring more of your city. Ride to work, run errands, or just ride for fun on our lightest city e-bike ever.
Simple, fun, equipped, electric
Just get on and go! FX is equipped with lights, fenders, and a rear rack to carry your essentials, simple and intuitive on-bar controls with three levels of assist, a sleek 250Wh internal battery, and so much more.
Natural-feeling assist up to 20 mph
Pounds lighter than most electric bikes
Simple and intuitive—just get on and go
Stock with lights, fenders, and a rear rack
Our best-selling bike, now with a boost
FX is the electric-assist version of our most popular hybrid bike. Hop on and enjoy a natural-feeling 20mph assist, simple and intuitive on-bar controls, and a powerful and efficient rear hub motor that makes it easy to see even more of the places you love.
A powerful and reliable hub-drive motor provides a smooth, easy to control boost that feels natural while you’re pedaling, so you can enjoy speedier adventures, sweat-free errands, and a morning commute you might actually look forward to.
Engwe M20 eBike review – moto, more range
REVIEW – The last 4 years have been pretty epic as far as personal electric vehicles go. The sheer quantity of electric bikes and scooters available is staggering which can make it tricky to find that one model that will be the perfect fit for you. Smaller moped-style bikes have become increasingly popular due to their ease of use and the one-size-fits-most design. Engwe has a brand new one called the M20 and I was able to get an early look.
What is it?
The Engwe M20 eBike is a moto-inspired, Class 3 ebike eBike with pedal assist, throttle, 4″ fat tires, dual-suspension, and can be equipped with either 1 or 2 batteries depending on your range needs.
Motor: 48v 750W (1000W peak) hub motor Battery: 48v 13Ah Lithium battery (1 or 2 can be mounted) Charge Time: ~ 5 hours per battery Frame: 6061 Aluminum Suspension: Front and rear suspension Tires: 20 x 4.0 All-terrain Fat Tires Lights: Dual headlights and rear brake/running light Display: Color LCD Display/Controller Gears: 7-speed Shimano system Braking: 160mm front rear mechanical disc brakes w/ motor cut-off sensors Throttle: Full width twist throttle Torque: 55 N.m Max Incline: 10° Speed: 28MPH (45 KPH) max speed (Actual speed varies w/ rider weight and terrain) Mileage: Up to 45 miles (pedal-assist only in mode 1) | Up to 30 miles (throttle only in mode 1) Weight: ~68 lbs without battery | ~77 lbs with 1 battery | ~86 lbs with 2 batteries Limits: Max load ~265 lbs | Rider height 5′ – 6′ (Engwe states up to 6’8″)
Design and features
The Engwe M20 eBike has a great look to it that just asks to be ridden.
It’s available in 3 different colors; White, Green or Black.
And additionally, can be ordered with two batteries if you want to double your range.
Up front, there are dual headlights that can be aimed individually. They have low running lights and a control switch by the left hand to toggle on the high beam.
On the right hand are the full-size throttle, 7-speed shifter, and your rear brake which has a sensor that cuts power to the motor when used, even if the throttle is still open.
The Engwe M20 eBike’s front wheel is mounted to a triple clamp suspension fork, providing a smooth ride and also preventing the steering from turning too far where the headlights might hit the frame.
At the top of the triple clamp fork, you have a red compression adjustment knob to tune the fork’s feel.
Here’s the whole cockpit. The small square in the center of the bar is my addition. That’s a Peak Design handlebar mount for their Mobile phone cases. Great, secure mount for your phone if you need GPS to get where you’re going.
The lights and horn are handled by 2-button remote mounted just to the right of the grip. As for the eBike settings, they’re all handled by the display which has three buttons. The power button is just above the battery icon on the top edge of the display. Just under the display on the left side are and – buttons. Pressing those increase or decrease the assist level from 0-5 (0 being no assist and 5 being max assist). Additionally, if you press and hold the – button the bike will slowly roll itself forward to help carry its own weight as you walk up hills. Just keep it pressed as long as you need the assist.
At the rear, you’ll find a very visible tail light that illuminates any time the bike is on and pulses brightly when the brakes are engaged. You can also see the rear swingarm in this shot heading up to the shock mounted under the seat.
Here’s that up close. The black perforated box under the seat hides the motor controller along with the horn’s speaker.
The Engwe M20 eBike’s rear derailleur comes with one of those protective cages around it. I’d recommend leaving it in place just due to the increased weight of this bike. A tip over to the right side could damage the derailleur pretty good. The mag-style wheels look good and are plenty strong.
As for the battery, it installs by sliding onto a modular rail and then locks in place with a key on the left side.
On the right side is a power switch along with the input barrel jack for charging the battery, and an output USB which you can use to charge up your phone or other USB-powered device. Both of those ports have rubber port covers to help keep moisture out.
Setting up the Engwe M20 eBike
Assembling a bike isn’t all that hard. Just take your time, follow the instructions, and hit up the manufacturer’s website (and maybe Google) if something doesn’t make sense. As was evidenced by the beat up shipping box up above, and this repeated photo here, transit can take its toll, so there’s a lot of protective packaging and cable ties that need to be removed.
The M20 assembly was pretty standard including…
- Installing the handlebars into the stem and tightening the 4 bolts
- Installing the front fender
- Adjusting position of the brake levers and shifter for hand size and reach
- Adjusting the display for visibility and the light/horn remote for reach
- Installing the front headlights and electrical connection (a little fussy, but easy enough)
- Inflating tires to proper levels
- Checking brakes and adjusting shifting
- Plugging in the battery to get an initial full charge
Installing the front wheel was interesting just because of how wide the fork is for the fat tires it’s running. As a result, the front axle had some spacers that need to be installed correctly. In the below photo, you can see the long spacer goes on the non-brake side in order to properly center the wheel and have the disc brake rotor properly align with the caliper. Photo is taken facing the front of the bike. The small bent tabs fit into retention holes as you’re installing the wheel.
Checking the tire pressure was a slight surprise. The rear tire needed about 20 psi to get up to spec, but the front was over-inflated by about 15 psi which was a little alarming.
The last item was switching the display from Metric to Imperial. To enter the settings mode, hold down both the and – buttons then press and hold the power button as well until the display enters a mode where you see P1. Use the /- buttons to navigate to P4 and press the power button to adjustment mode. Again use the /- keys to adjust. 00 is Metric, 01 is Imperial. Press the power button again to back out, or press and hold the power button to save all setting adjustments and power off the display.
Another setting you may want to enable is P7 which lets you set a power-on password that has to be entered for the bike to work. Super useful if you want to prevent someone from taking your bike for a spin. The two included keys are just for locking the battery to the bike, not preventing the use or physical locks that prevent moving the bike.
The M20 is straight-up, super fun to ride. Select the assist level from 1-5 after powering up and off you go. The low seat makes it easy to put your feet flat on the ground. The handlebar angle can be adjusted to help with reach and a comfortable riding position. The big 4″ tires have plenty of traction and together with the dual suspension, smooth out any rough roads nicely. The pedal assist has a momentary pause before engaging and a slight punch when it engages after which it feels nice and smooth. Similarly, you can just twist, sit back and smile as you cruise along.
The seat height and fore/aft position are fixed which is part of why the bike looks so cool. I’d confidently say that if you’re between 5 and 6 feet tall, this will fit you pretty well. Over 6 feet, pedaling can be awkward as your knees rise above your seated position. I definitely fall into that category, but that’s where the throttle comes into play.
The suspension is going to work better for you if you weigh a little more. I’m around 215 lbs and could feel it working, but wouldn’t call it plush. There doesn’t appear to be all that much adjustment outside the one dial on the fork. There’s also no damping on the return so if your wheels leave the ground, you’ll hear and feel the suspension shoot back out full force. Lowering the pressure in the tires will absorb the smaller stuff and help the suspension FOCUS on the larger bumps.
I did have an issue with how the battery was secured. It’s mounted on the bike prior to shipping and there may be a customs ruling or other regulation type reason for that but regardless, as I was setting up the bike, I noticed that the battery was leaning to the right side. It was also wobbly when moving the bike. After using the key to remove the battery and look at the mount I found the problem.
It is held onto the bike’s down-tube with 3 bolts. This is a relatively normal installation other than the choice to use Phillips head screws. However, these were a little loose, and tightening them up didn’t really solve the issue, so I removed them to take off the mount and get a closer look.
Here you can see that each of the 3 screw bosses are proud by about 2mm. Again, relatively normal for mounting a water bottle cage, but not for balancing an eBike battery that weighs 9 lbs. Even if these were flush, you’d be balancing a flat-bottomed battery mount on a round tube. To solve the problem, I knocked out a quick design file and sent it to the 3D printer. Voila! A platform that matched the tube diameter and sat flush with the top of the screw bosses (in a matching white even). I was limited on the print bed size, so the front boss is still working that original way whereas the lower two are handling the support. I’ll end up printing a pair to support the full length, but this absolutely created a rock solid foundation.
What’s interesting is that they got this scenario right for the optional 2nd battery location. Here you can see that the top tube has a nice flat spot for securing the battery mount. I supposedly have a 2nd battery on the way so I’ll update this post with images of that mount and battery installed when it arrives.
I found this to look a little unfinished without a battery so I installed the storage case they sent along. It’s the perfect size for lunch runs down the hill to Jersey Mike’s. It fits a little awkwardly though so ultimately I ended up finding an old Timbuk2 shoulder strap pad that fit well after removing the padding. You can see that in the lead photo and some others as I promptly forgot that it wasn’t a stock item.
Another issue I ran into was the throttle. Both it and the matching grip on the left side felt good in the hand, but I noticed that when I twisted the throttle, it did not spring back to the neutral position. That could create a very dangerous situation.
After removing the throttle and looking closely, I found that there is no inner sleeve isolating the throttle from the handlebar surface. Basically, if the silver clamping collar is tightened and not perfectly square to the handlebar, the throttle is able to drag and bind internally. It could also occur if installed too far onto the bar where the inside end of the throttle/grip is contacting the end of the bar. The solution was sliding the throttle on until it stopped and then backing up about 1mm before clamping nice and square. It’s worked properly since then. Just always test before riding by twisting and making sure it snaps back.
I also noticed while riding the Engwe M20 eBike that the throttle has a delay in engaging the motor. Diving further into this off the bike, the throttle drives the motor almost immediately so what I noticed was the effect that my weight has on the torque and getting the bike moving. One of the biggest power draws is getting the bike moving from zero. If you pedal to start (or at least pedal and twist the throttle) you’ll get moving quicker.
Hill climbing is the other place that comes into play. The bike has to work a lot harder the more weight it has to move. I definitely need to pedal up hills in addition to the throttle or the speed will keep declining. Overall that’s not a big deal as the bike’s assist is definitely noticeable.
If you’ve got big hills or testing the weight limits of the Engwe M20 eBike, I’d highly recommend picking up the 2nd battery as well as I’m definitely getting less than the specified range. Keep in mind Engwe has listed those using assist level 1. We all know that’s an unlikely scenario when you have 4 more settings to choose from. I’ll know a bit more when I can play around with 2 installed, but doubling the range almost has no downsides other than adding some weight. The top tube position also gives it a bit of a moto gas tank feel which further adds to the look they’re going for.
I’d also recommend upgrading the brakes if you’ve got big hills. These mechanicals aren’t bad, but the rotor size is small and extended hills are going to have you squeezing pretty hard.
Speaking of weight, that round tube behind the seat is an awesome grab handle for moving the bike around or lifting it up onto a bike rack. If you do throw it on a rack, take a second to remove the batteries as most eBike racks aren’t rated above 65 lbs per bike tray and regular racks can be far below that.
What I’d change
Overall, the Engwe M20 eBike is really fun and a great way to get around. The assist levels are great and with the included throttle you can just keep rolling. I can see this being really popular with teens getting to and from school as it would hit the sweet spot of range and rider weight. Nice work Engwe. Looking forward to more bikes like this.
Pricing: 1299 – M20 (13Ah – 1 battery) | 1599 – M20 (26Ah – 2 batteries) Where to buy: Engwe and Amazon Source: The sample of this product was provided by Engwe.
The best electric bike conversion kits 2023 and how to fit them
The best electric bike conversion kits can give you an extra boost of power without the expense of purchasing a new electric bike. We’ve fitted some of the best e-bike conversion kits ourselves, so will walk you through the process, how easy it is and how the different systems perform.
E-bikes are soaring in popularity – and for good reason. The best electric bikes replace a car for running errands around town and greatly increase the distances it’s possible to ride on one of the best commuter bikes. An e-bike can also be a great tool for boosting your fitness, whether that’s enabling you to ride with a greater range of people or offering the motivation of a greater range of roads to explore.
But is an e-bike worth it,? As the best ebike conversion kits promise to add power to an ‘analogue’ bike for a lot less than a full ebike, it’s an easy, cheaper way to get an electric boost.
In this guide we’ll take you through the surprisingly broad range of benefits an e-bike conversion kit has to offer and – most importantly – how to perform an e-bike conversion, based on our hands-on experience. For a walk-through on how to do it, you can check out the video above or read on for a step-by-step guide – it genuinely is so much simpler than you would think.
When buying an ebike conversion kit there are a number of factors you’ll need to consider. Most importantly you’ll need a kit that will fit your bike. To help with this it pays to take a few frame measurements, notably the width of your forks and the width of the rear stays, as well as noting the wheel size and the type of brakes. You can then match these details to the kit specifications.
Naturally you’ll also need to consider the cost and how much you chose to spend on an ebike conversion kit will be dictated by not only your budget but also your needs. If you’re unsure of just how much you’ll use the converted bike then it’s prudent to opt for a cheaper kit. you can always upgrade down the road.
You’ll also want to consider where the motor will be located, and match this to your bike and your mechanical prowess. Front hub motors are typically the easiest to fit, while mid-drive motors require more effort. A rear hub motor lies somewhere in between the two, and like a front hub option is applicable to a wide range of bikes.
Other considerations include the type of battery and the wattage rating. 36 or 48 volt battery is standard, with wattage usually running from 300 to 600 watts.
The Swytch kit is super-simple: just swap out your front wheel, wire up the controller and battery and you’re off. The battery is also very compact, allowing you to remove it from the bike easily to carry with you.
The TongSheng kit positions the motor at the centre of the bike, so it will fit to a wide range of designs. It’s lightweight for its high torque and power output, although you’ll need to buy the battery separately.
The Voilamart kit is an inexpensive rear wheel conversion option, although you’ll have to source a battery separately. It’s slightly fiddly to fit as well and requires additional waterproofing if you plan to ride in wet weather.
The best electric bike conversion kits
You can trust Cycling Weekly.
Our team of experts put in hard miles testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.
Wheel sizes: Each wheel is custom built – specify your required size at checkout (Bromptons also catered for)
Reasons to avoid
The newly updated Swytch system is one of the simplest conversion kits to fit out there. The latest version, launched in August 2022, has a smaller, neater battery pack that improves the bike’s dynamics and lowers its weight. There’s the choice of the Air battery (700g, range 15km) or the Max battery (1,100g, range 30km). Both use the same mount, which places the battery to the front of the handlebar.
The motor sits in the front hub and we found it to be pretty discreet. Incidentally, the new batteries will work with the original motor and pedal sensor, so if you already own the original kit you can upgrade it with just a new battery without having to buy the whole kit again.
The Swytch kit is incredibly easy to fit. It took us around 30 minutes working at a steady pace.
We tested it on both a reasonably light two-speed steel bike and a heavier Pinnacle utility bike. It transformed the ride of the two-speed bike, making it fast, nimble and responsive. We also found the stated range to be conservative: after 20 miles on setting number two (medium assist) it had only used two bars out of five on the battery.
With the heavier Pinnacle on maximum assist (and on draggy routes) we were getting slightly under the 30km for the Max battery. As with all e-bike batteries, range depends on the terrain, weight of bike and level of assist.
Great customer support makes this one of the best kits for people who are new to working on their bike and who aren’t familiar with electrics. And even if you do have a strong background in both those areas, a simple system is always appreciated.
Reasons to avoid
Like the Bafang mid-drive system below, the TongSheng offers the same benefits of compatibility with a wide range of bike designs and a high torque for steep hills and off-road terrain. However, the TongSheng mid-drive does manage to be a little lighter than the Bafang for approximately the same power.
This model doesn’t come with a battery included, so you’ll have to source your own 36v item. As a rule of thumb, around 10Ah will give a range of 29km / 18mi, whereas going up to 18Ah will typically give around 53km / 33mi, so be sure to factor that in when you’re making your choice.
There’s a huge range of batteries sold on Amazon, but Green Cell is a particular brand we’d recommend.
We found fitting to be reasonably easy. As with most mid-drive systems, you replace your crank and chainring with the one provided in the kit. There’s an LCD display for attaching to your handlebars and you’ll need a battery to be hooked up to the motor.
Read more: TongSheng TSDZ2 conversion kit review
Reasons to avoid
A mid-motor drive system offers a number of benefits over hub-driven conversion kits. With the power delivered at the cranks it can produce more torque, making it more effective on particularly steep and bumpy terrain.
Another perk is that the compatibility is much greater – no concern about wheel diameters, hub widths, axle standards and brake type. No matter whether you’re running rim brakes or disc, quick release or thru-axle, the crank driven system is compatible with all.
The only proviso is that the frame material must be alloy and the bottom bracket width is 68–73mm – but that covers most bikes you’re likely to be fitting this system to.
There are a few aspects to be aware of, the first being that this system doesn’t include a battery and that typically makes up about half the cost of a conversion kit. Finding an e-bike battery is quite straightforward with many being sold on Amazon, with Green Cell being among those we’d recommend.
Just make sure to get a 36V one for this motor as a higher voltage can damage it. Also you should be aware that capacity of 10Ah will give you a range of about 29km / 18mi, while a capacity of 18Ah typically gives about 53km / 33mi – so be sure to factor in the distances you’re planning on riding.
Reasons to avoid
This radically different approach from Rubbee makes for an e-bike conversion with much fewer parts. The battery and motor are housed in a single unit which powers the bike directly turning the rear wheel with its integrated roller.
Not only is the initial installation notably fast and easy, the quick release system means that you can take off the unit for rides that you don’t wish to be assisted on. At 2.8kg, it doesn’t add much weight to that of the bike, making the bike easier to handle.
The range of this model is quite low, limited to Eco mode it only offers a range of 16km / 10mi – although taking the device off to charge at the other end is easy to do and it only takes an hour to top up. There is the option to increase your range by buying additional battery modules that fit into the base unit.
Up to three can be accommodated, which in turn increases the maximum range to 48km / 30mi, or around 23km / 14mi with moderately heavy use. However, unlike many other e-bike systems, the Rubbee X supports regenerative braking, allowing you to scrub back some power on the descents.
Reasons to avoid
Bafang is a well established maker of electric bike motors and offers a front hub based motor, if you’re not a fan of the bulky profile a mid motor conversion system creates. You can buy this kit without a battery – although why would you? – but if you sensibly also opt for a power-pack there’s a choice of amp hours, and you can select either a downtube or a rear-rack mounted version.
The setup follows the same principles as most front-wheel e-bike conversions. First you need to set up the wheel with a disc rotor, tyre and inner tube and install that into the bike. Then attach the cadence sensor – so it can tell when you’re pedalling and need assistance – then attach the battery and the LCD display and you’re essentially good to go!
It’s worth bearing in mind that although this conversion kit comes in many different wheel sizes, it is only compatible with bikes that have a front disc brake and a Quick-Release axle. If your disc brake bike is a newer, more expensive model, it might not be compatible, so worth checking first.
Remember, that in the UK electric bike laws mean that e-bikes are not permitted to have a power output of more than 250w and shouldn’t propel the bike when it’s travelling more than 15.5mph – you’ll have to make sure you select the right model with the relevant limitations.
Reasons to avoid
We’ve also tested the Voilamart kit, which comes with six main parts: the replacement rear wheel, the replacement brake levers, the control screen, pedal sensor, throttle and the control box. It doesn’t come with a battery however.
On review we found the kit pretty straightforward to fit, although you’ll need to remove the bike’s crank to fit the pedal sensor and this element of the conversion was a bit fiddly. Another potential drawback is that the connectors, which link to control unit, aren’t waterproof, with only a bag supplied to house the delicate electronics. While it does a good job of keeping everything tidy, we decided to buy a plastic enclosure, cut the wires to length, solder the connections and then heat shrink for added protection.
As for the ride, the rear wheel kit delivers plenty of power. However, since the pedal sensor only detects when you’re pedalling rather than how hard you’re pedalling it delivers the power as soon as your start to turn the crank arms. Fortunately, you can quickly adjust the level assistance, with five power options available.
All in all the Voliamart rear wheel kit is an affordable way to ‘go electric’, although it requires you to be mechanical competent to fit it and you’ll need to factor in the additional cost of a battery.
How to convert your bike to an e-bike in four steps
Here’s our step-by-step guide to how to add an electric bike conversion kit to your pedal-powered bike.
Swap the tyre and tube
Firstly, remove the tyre and tube from your current front wheel and then install them on the new wheel from the kit. Make sure to check if the tyre is directional, if it is, ensure that the tyre is mounted so that the cable sticking out of the hub is on the left-hand side (non-driveside) when the wheel is installed in the bike – otherwise it’ll be powered in the opposite direction to your direction of travel!
To swap the tyre and tube over, you will need some tyre levers and a pump. If you want to go over how to do these, we have a guide that can be accessed here.
Final points are to do up the nuts on the wheel’s axle to keep it firmly in place in the forks and to check that the brakes are correctly adjusted for the new wheel. If you’re unsure how to do that, we have another guide here.
Attach the bracket to the handlebars
There is a strap that needs to be attached to the bars to keep the bracket in place and stop it rotating around. There are also some adaptors included in the kit which can be used if your handlebars are a little skinnier.
But essentially all that’s needed to be done here is a couple of screws to clamp the bracket tightly to the bars.
Attach magnet disc and sensor
The magnet disc has a split design so it can just clip around the inside of the left (non-driveside crank) and is then held in place by its retention ring. Next, stick the sensor on the frame directly in line with the magnets – this will ensure that the sensor can tell when the cranks are moving.
Plug in the cables
The thickest one is the main power cable and that just needs to be plugged into the cable extending from the hub. The other orange cable attaches to the cadence sensor and this just needs plugging in as well.
It’s then a good idea to use some cable ties to tidy up the lengths of the cables a little bit, so they aren’t flapping about and risk getting caught on the spokes or on the cranks.
The blue cables, you don’t need to worry about, these are for an optional brake sensor upgrade kit.
Why convert your bike to an e-bike?
What types of conversion kit are available?
You can get conversion kits that power your front or rear wheel or power the bikes via the cranks.
Wheel-based systems usually have a hub motor and require replacement of your existing wheel with a compatible motorised one.
The alternative is a system like the Rubbee that drives your wheel by pushing on the tyre. Tyre wear can be an issue here though.
Finally, there are systems that power the e-bike via the bottom bracket.
Usually the e-bike’s battery will bolt onto your frame or be attached to your handlebars, although sometimes you can fit a battery pack to a rear rack.
We’ve more on compatibility. which can be an issue. below.
How much does it cost to convert a bike to an e-bike?
vary depending on the type of conversion kit and the size of the battery. To give a rough Band, you can expect to pay a total of between £500 and £800 from a reputable brand, but there will be outliers at either end.
Is it worth converting a bike to an e-bike?
There are many reasons to upgrade your bike to offer a little e-assistance. On the one hand, it can greatly increase the usefulness of your bike, enabling you to replace short car journeys – such as around town, to the shops, or to work – with going by bike instead.
It’s a lot more environmentally friendly getting about on two wheels than in a two-ton metal box. It can also save you time – bikes are able to take more direct routes and are less affected by traffic, as well as eliminating the need to search for a parking space at the other end.
But beyond just their practical benefits, e-bikes can also be a potent tool for boosting your fitness. Consistency is key when it comes to exercise, so making commitments with friends is a great way to ensure you’re heading out the door. Previously, differing fitness levels could make it difficult to find a riding partner but with an e-bike levelling the playing field, getting in a productive workout (for both of you) with a friend is much easier to do.
Added to that, an e-bike can be much more motivating in that it opens up a far greater range of roads than you’d be able to access just under the power of your own two legs. Exploring new roads is part of the fun of riding a bike and an e-bike can help preserve that.
Can you convert any regular bike to an e-bike?
Most bikes can be converted to an e-bike – it just requires getting the matching the right conversion kit to match the specification.
For conversion kits where the motor is located at the wheel’s hub, you’ll need to consider the wheel’s diameter, the width and axle standard of the hub and whether it uses rim or disc brakes. For instance, a 700c (AKA, 28”) disc brake wheel with a 100mm wide quick-release hub is a relatively common spec. Once you’ve determined what type of wheel you need, the conversion is quite a straightforward process
Crank driven systems are generally easier in terms of determining compatibility; the requirements are typically just an alloy frame and a bottom bracket width of between 68 and 73mm – which is the standard for all road and mountain bikes, it’s only specialist bikes that have a different spacing there. In replacing the crankset, these systems are a bit more involved to fit than a hub system, but still well within the remit of a home mechanic.
Other kits, such as those that directly drive the rear tyre, have almost universal compatibility – provided your tyres aren’t too heavily treaded.
Are electric bike conversion kits any good?
You won’t be getting the very best motors and the largest, seamlessly integrated batteries with an e-bike conversion kit. But with that said, e-bike conversion kits are much cheaper than purchasing a whole new e-bike and they do deliver many of the same benefits.
Converted e-bikes are great for commuting and utility cycling, giving that extra boost to help flatten hills, motor along the flat and lug about heavy loads. E-bike conversions are also good for leisure cycling, helping to moderate your effort level as needed and greatly extending the range you can explore.
For more specialist utility needs, buying a new cargo e-bike would help boost your carrying capacity and range. Equally, for the aesthetically conscious, the latest breed of e-road bikes are almost indistinguishable from a non-powered bike at first glance. Then again, both those options are much more expensive than a conversion.
How we test
Where we’ve been able to link to a review, it means that we’ve put the ebike conversion kit through its paces. We’ve assessed how easy it is to fit and maintain as well other factors such as quality of the components and battery life and charge time. Riding the bike once fitted with the kit, we’ve taken into account the ride quality, the ease of use and the battery range.
Where we haven’t yet had the chance to review an item, we’re still confident in recommending it as one of the best, because we either know the brand really well, and have probably tested another product or the previous version and can still happily recommend it as one of the best.