Hitway BK6S Folding Electric Bike City E-Bike. 7 Gears, 403.2Wh Battery, 70 KM Assist Range, 120 Kg Payload, Stylish 20 inch Off-Road Tires. 24 Month Warranty
Are you seeking an enhanced cycling experience? Look no further than our electric city bike. With an extended range that surpasses expectations, you’ll effortlessly conquer even the most ambitious cycling adventures and elevate your riding to new heights.
In addition to the Hitway BK6S Folding Electric Bike, the box also includes the following items:
Charger: This allows you to easily recharge the battery of your electric bike, ensuring that you have the power you need for your rides.
Manual: The included manual provides detailed instructions and information on how to operate and maintain your electric bike, ensuring that you have the best experience possible.
Tools: The box includes a set of tools that are essential for assembling and adjusting various components of the electric bike. These tools will come in handy for any necessary adjustments or maintenance tasks.
- Fast Delivery: Expect your electric bike to be delivered within 4 to 8 working days by DPD, ensuring a prompt arrival.
- 2-Year Warranty: Enjoy peace of mind with our comprehensive 2-year warranty. If any issues arise within this period, we will assist you in sending the bike to the manufacturer’s repair center or provide new parts as necessary.
- Dedicated After Sales Care: Our helpful team is available Monday to Friday to provide exceptional after-sales support and assist you with any inquiries or concerns.
- Klarna Payment Option: Manage your budget effectively with Klarna, allowing you to split your purchase into three interest-free payments. Available in select countries (IE/FR/ES/IT/BE/AT/FI/NL/DE) based on your location.
- Klarna Support: For any questions or assistance regarding Klarna payment options, refer to our helpful information available on our website.
- May SUPERDEALS DAY: Take advantage of our special offers and discounts during May Superdeals Day, providing you with excellent savings on our electric bikes.
- Ready, Steady. BEST Gift: Surprise your loved ones with the perfect gift! Our electric bikes make for an outstanding and memorable present.
- Limited-Time Discount: Act fast and make your purchase now to enjoy the best discount available.
- Checkout Discount Code: Use the discount code Electric Future EU. e-BikeShop during checkout to benefit from additional savings on your purchase. Don’t miss out on this opportunity to save!
Free Express Delivery
Delivery in 4 to 8 working days by DPD.(Free over €100)
After Sales Care
Dedicated after-sales support available on weekdays, Monday to Friday
Fully Tested Before Dispatch
We check everything is working as it should before we send out your order
24 Month Warranty
Comprehensive 2-year warranty ensuring prompt assistance in case of bike issues. We facilitate the return to the manufacturer’s repair center or provide replacement parts as necessary
Effortless and Stylish Commuting Solution
Experience the epitome of effortless and stylish transportation with the Hitway BK6S Folding Electric Bike. Designed to make your urban journeys a breeze, this sleek and compact electric bike offers a seamless and graceful ride through the bustling city streets. No more worries about traffic congestion or parking woes. simply fold and go!
Ideal for busy commuters, the Hitway BK6S allows you to effortlessly navigate your way to the gym, office, or your favorite restaurant. With its convenient folding feature, you can easily carry it onto public transportation or store it in compact spaces. Embrace the freedom and convenience of this electric bike as it effortlessly blends into your urban lifestyle.
Enjoy the perfect combination of style and functionality as you zip through the city streets on the Hitway BK6S. Its sleek design and modern aesthetics are sure to turn heads, while its powerful electric motor provides a smooth and efficient ride. Say goodbye to the stress of commuting and hello to a more convenient and enjoyable way of getting around.
Upgrade your daily commute and embrace the future of transportation with the Hitway BK6S Folding Electric Bike. It’s time to experience the ease, convenience, and style that this remarkable electric bike has to offer. Get ready to make a statement as you effortlessly glide through the city streets on this stylish and convenient mode of transportation.
Efficient Power: Unleash the Potential of the 250W Motor
Experience Unmatched Power: The Fiido electric bike is equipped with a high-efficiency 250W motor that delivers exceptional performance. Despite its compact size and lightweight design, this motor packs a punch, providing you with tremendous power to conquer even the most challenging terrains. Whether you’re facing rugged paths or steep roads, this motor will effortlessly propel you forward while ensuring minimal energy consumption.
Swift Speed and Range: With the 250W motor, you can achieve a full speed of 25 km/h, allowing you to reach your destination swiftly and efficiently. The bike offers a range of 35-70 km, depending on whether you choose pure electric mode or pedal-assist riding. This impressive range ensures that you can travel long distances without worrying about running out of battery power.
Long-Lasting Battery: The Fiido electric bike is equipped with a 36V 11.2 Ah battery that provides reliable and long-lasting performance. It takes just 5-6 hours to fully charge the battery, allowing you to get back on the road quickly. Whether you’re commuting to work, running errands, or enjoying leisurely rides, the battery will keep you going for hours on end.
Comfortable Riding Experience: The adjustable seat with a spring saddle ensures a comfortable and customized riding experience. You can easily adjust the seat height to suit your preference and enjoy a smooth and enjoyable ride, even on longer journeys.
Flexible Power Solution: Embrace the convenience of the Fiido electric bike’s removable seatpost battery, offering ample capacity for your adventures.
Introducing the remarkable Hitway BK6S Folding Electric Bike! With its impressive 36V 11.2 Ah Battery, this extraordinary bike offers an extensive range that will take you wherever you desire, whether you prefer pedal assist or rely solely on its pure-electric mode. Even with an average riding weight of 75 Kg, the range can still reach an impressive 35-90KM in electric moped mode, allowing you to enjoy an entire week of riding without the need for recharging. The bike’s exceptional 25-degree climb angle ensures that you can effortlessly conquer hills, making it an ideal companion for city explorations and thrilling day trips. Don’t settle for anything less than the best. elevate your cycling experience with the Hitway BK6S Folding Electric Bike today!
Intuitive Combination: Integrated Taillight and Seatpost Design
Versatile Riding Experience: The Hitway BK6S Folding Electric Bike offers three working modes and adjustable height options, allowing you to customize your ride according to your preferences.
Enhanced Safety Features: With a super bright LED headlight and flashing rear red lights, this bike ensures optimal visibility and safety during your urban rides.
Ideal for Various Purposes: Whether you’re commuting to work, running errands, or enjoying short trips around the city, this electric bike is designed to meet your daily needs with ease.
Smart Integration: The innovative design of the integrated seatpost combines the functionality of the battery and taillight into one streamlined component, reducing the number of parts and maximizing efficiency.
Enhanced Gear Shifting with Shimano 7-Speed
The Hitway BK6S features a Shimano 7-speed gear system with 3 adjustable levels in moped mode, providing riders with enhanced control and the ability to find their preferred riding style. Whether you’re looking for a faster pace or a more relaxed ride, the Shimano 7-speed gear system offers versatility and customization.
The frame of the Hitway BK6S is constructed with Q195 carbon structural steel, ensuring high strength and durability. This sturdy frame provides stability and reliability, giving riders confidence on various terrains.
With its integrated 20-inch aluminum alloy tire, the Hitway BK6S offers a stronger grip on the road, enhancing traction and stability. This ensures a smoother and safer ride, even on uneven surfaces.
The aluminum alloy construction of the bike further adds to its durability, allowing it to withstand everyday use and handle a maximum load of 120kg. Whether you’re commuting, running errands, or enjoying leisurely rides, the Hitway BK6S is designed to deliver long-lasting performance and withstand the rigors of regular use.
Versatile Riding Modes
Embrace Versatility with Three Riding Modes
The Hitway BK6S Folding Electric Bike offers an unparalleled level of versatility with its three selectable riding modes. Whether you prefer pedaling, power-assist, or pure-electric mode, this bike has the perfect setting to match your riding style and needs.
In pedal mode, you can enjoy the traditional cycling experience, using your own power to propel the bike forward. For an added boost, the power-assist mode provides varying levels of assistance, allowing you to effortlessly conquer challenging terrains and longer distances. And when you’re in the mood for a truly effortless ride, simply switch to pure-electric mode and let the bike do all the work.
With a top speed of 25 Km/h, you can easily adjust your pace to suit the traffic conditions in bustling city areas, ensuring a smooth and safe ride. Whether you’re seeking an intense workout, a convenient commute, or a leisurely adventure, the Hitway BK6S is designed to cater to your unique preferences.
Don’t miss the opportunity to experience the freedom and versatility of the Hitway BK6S Folding Electric Bike. Discover the joy of riding with complete control and style.
Exceptional Build Quality: The Hitway BK6S Folding Electric Bike
Unparalleled Stability and Safety: The Hitway BK6S Folding Electric Bike features thickened and thick vacuum tires that offer exceptional grip, allowing you to effortlessly handle various road surfaces. No matter the terrain, this bike ensures a smooth and secure ride. The robust Aluminum alloy solid frame enhances the bike’s stability and durability, providing a reassuring feel during your city journeys and urban expeditions. over, the adjustable seat with a spring saddle guarantees a comfortable and bump-free experience, making those long rides a breeze. Additionally, the back frame offers convenient storage space for your gym gear, shopping, or work essentials.
Premium Safety Features: Equipped with 20 wear-resistant tires and grippy tread, the Hitway BK6S Bike ensures superior traction and control, enabling you to tackle corners with confidence. The front and back disc brakes deliver exceptional stopping power, ensuring your safety even in wet conditions. To enhance visibility during nighttime rides, this bike features a powerful and bright LED front light, a flashing rear red light, and red brake lights. With these safety features, you can ride with peace of mind, knowing that you are fully visible to others on the road.
Compact and Convenient Folding Mechanism
Experience the ultimate convenience and portability with the Hitway BK6S Electric Bike and its compact folding design. This incredible bike folds down quickly and effortlessly, allowing for easy storage in tight spaces, such as car boots or even under your desk at the office. Whether you’re a daily commuter or an occasional rider, this folding electric bike is the perfect choice for navigating the urban landscape with ease.
Say goodbye to crowded public transportation and hello to a more eco-friendly and efficient way of getting around. With the Hitway BK6S, you can effortlessly glide from home to the office, bypassing traffic and reducing your carbon footprint in the process. Its compact size and lightweight construction make it easy to carry onto trains or buses, providing you with the freedom to travel wherever you need to go.
Don’t let limited storage space or transportation options hold you back. Embrace the convenience and versatility of the Hitway BK6S Electric Bike and enjoy the freedom of exploring the city at your own pace.
Reimagining the Hitway BK6S Folding Electric Bike: Unveiling Its Specifications
Aluminum Alloy Body: Crafted with a durable and lightweight aluminum alloy frame, ensuring a sturdy and reliable build.
Folded Size: Compact dimensions of 930500720mm make it easy to store and transport.
Expanded Size: Unfolded dimensions of 17705301200mm provide a comfortable riding experience.
Pedal Distance from the Floor: The distance of 120mm from the pedals to the ground ensures a comfortable and ergonomic riding position.
Wheel Size: Equipped with 20-inch wheels, striking a balance between maneuverability and stability.
Packing Size: Convenient packing size of 965380810mm for easy transportation.
Seat from Floor: The seat height from the ground is 78cm, offering a comfortable riding position.
Suitable Height: Designed for riders with a height of 160cm (5.24ft) or taller.
Body Weight: The total weight of the bike is 30.9kgs (68.1lbs) gross weight and 26.6kgs (58.6lbs) net weight.
Maximum Load: Capable of supporting a maximum load of 120kg (264lbs).
Rear Shelf Load: The rear shelf can safely carry a load of less than 15kg.
Top Speed: With a top speed of 25 km/h (15.5 mph), enjoy swift and efficient rides.
Max Range: Depending on various factors such as load and driving style, the bike offers a range of 35-70km. The pure electric mode provides a range of 35km.
Kilometers: The bike has a power consumption rate of 1.08kWh per 100km.
Maximum Climbing Angle: Conquer inclines of up to 25 degrees with ease.
Operating Temperature: Designed to operate within a temperature range of.10 to 45℃.
Waterproof Grade: Boasting an IP54 waterproof rating, the bike remains functional even in light rain.
Electronic Parameters: Equipped with an 11.2AH battery and a 36V motor, delivering optimal performance.
Motor Drive Mode: The bike features a manpower assist mode, providing additional power while pedaling.
Motor Rated Speed: The motor operates at a rated speed of 400 ± 10 rpm.
Rated Motor Voltage: The motor operates at a rated voltage of 36V.
Rated Motor Power: The motor delivers a rated power of 250W, ensuring efficient performance.
Charging Voltage: Supports a charging voltage of DC54.6V.
Input Voltage: Compatible with an input voltage range of AC100-240V.
Charging Time: The battery requires approximately 4-6 hours to fully charge.
Rest assured, your Hitway BK6S electric bike will be delivered to you within 4 to 8 working days by trusted courier services such as DPD or GLS. To keep you informed throughout the delivery process, we will send you a confirmation email as soon as your order is dispatched. This email will include the tracking number and details of the courier, allowing you to track your package every step of the way. Additionally, we will provide regular updates via email to keep you informed about the progress of your delivery.
What is the refund policy?
We understand that sometimes things may not work out as expected, which is why we offer a 30-day return and refund policy for your peace of mind. If, for any reason, you are not satisfied with your Hitway BK6S electric bike, you have the option to return it within 30 days of purchase.
To initiate a return, please ensure that the item is in its original condition and packaging, including the original box. This helps us process the return smoothly and ensures that the product remains in its best condition for future customers. Once we receive the returned item and verify its condition, we will process the refund for you.
Please note that the return shipping costs are the responsibility of the customer, unless the item is found to be defective or damaged upon arrival. We recommend using a reliable shipping method with tracking to ensure that the item reaches us safely.
For more information on our return and refund policy, please refer to our website or contact our customer service team. We are here to assist you and ensure that you have a satisfactory shopping experience with us.
At Electric Future, we stand behind the quality and performance of our products, which is why we offer a 2-year manufacturer warranty on the Hitway BK6S Electric Bike. This warranty provides coverage for any manufacturing defects that may arise during the specified period.
In the unlikely event that your electric bike develops a fault within the warranty period, we are here to assist you. We can send out replacement parts for the motor, computer, mudguard, and battery, depending on the specific issue. Our aim is to ensure that your electric bike is up and running smoothly again as quickly as possible.
It’s important to note that the warranty does not cover accidental damage or general wear and tear that may occur through regular use. Additionally, the warranty is not the same as having insurance for your bike. We recommend taking appropriate precautions and maintaining your bike properly to prevent any issues.
To ensure a smooth warranty claim process, we kindly request that you keep the original box in which the bike was delivered. This helps in the event that the bike needs to be returned or serviced. Please note that the courier will not accept the bike for return or service without the original box.
If you have any questions or need further assistance regarding the warranty or any other concerns, our customer service team is always available to help. Your satisfaction and peace of mind are our top priorities.
How do i Pay Later with Klarna?
- Add the desired item to your cart: Start by selecting the item you wish to purchase and add it to your shopping cart.
- Proceed to checkout: Once you have finished selecting your items, proceed to the checkout page.
- Fill out your details: On the checkout page, you will be prompted to fill out your personal and shipping information. Provide accurate and complete details to ensure a smooth transaction.
- Select Klarna as the payment method: After filling out your information, you will be directed to the payment page. Here, you will find various payment options available. Look for and select the Klarna payment option.
- Complete your order: Once you have selected Klarna as your preferred payment method, review your order details to ensure accuracy. If everything looks good, proceed to complete your order.
By choosing Klarna as your payment method, you can enjoy the convenience of splitting your purchase into multiple interest-free payments. Klarna offers flexibility and ease, allowing you to manage your budget effectively.
If you have any further questions or need assistance with the payment process, our customer support team is available to help.
Electric bikes have gained popularity as a convenient and eco-friendly mode of transportation in many parts of Europe. However, it’s important to note that regulations and laws regarding electric bikes can vary from country to country. Therefore, we strongly recommend checking your local laws and regulations before purchasing an electric bike, including the Hitway BK6S Electric Bike.
In Germany, for example, an ABE (Allgemeine Betriebserlaubnis) certificate is required for motor-powered vehicles, including electric bikes. It’s important to be aware that the Hitway BK6S Electric Bike does not have an ABE certificate. As a result, certain restrictions may apply to riding this bike in Germany. Riding is typically permitted on non-main roads and unmanaged trails, subject to local laws and regulations, and of course, on private land. It’s crucial for German customers to understand and comply with these regulations.
When making a purchase, it’s important to carefully review and agree to the sales regulations of our store. As the Hitway BK6S Electric Bike does not have an ABE certificate, please note that it cannot be refunded solely on the basis of lacking this certificate. If you decide to proceed with the purchase, it is your responsibility to ensure that you comply with local laws and regulations, and to use the bike responsibly and in accordance with applicable rules.
We understand that legal requirements can be complex and vary from region to region. If you have any specific questions or concerns regarding the legal status of electric bikes in your area, we recommend consulting with local authorities or seeking legal advice for clarification. Our team is also available to provide general guidance and assistance, but please note that we cannot provide legal advice.
At Electric Future, we strive to provide our customers with high-quality products and ensure that they have a positive experience. If you have any further questions or require additional information, please don’t hesitate to reach out to our customer service team.
E bike wh
Green Jobs, Meaningful Work
- Shop by Brand
- Riese Müller
- Urban Arrow
- All Electric Bikes
- Cruising Comfort
- Kids Cargo
- Urban Commute
- Road Adventure
- Mountain Trail
- Used Electric Bicycles
- Sale Clearance
Service Plans 5-Year Warranty
- About The New Wheel
- Schedule a Test Ride
- Schedule a Service Appointment
- Customer Support
- Return Policy
- Terms of Service
- Accessibility Statement
- Do not sell my personal information
Browse the listings. See a bike you like? Give the owner a call. We recommend that you only deal locally. All sales are between buyer and seller exclusively. The New Wheel takes no responsibility for the bikes purchased through our used bike listing page.
WE’VE INCLUDED THESE KEYS TO HELP GUIDE YOUR SEARCH
Purchased at TNW: The used electric bike was originally purchased at The New Wheel.
Service Plan: The New Wheel’s unique Service Plans are renewable by new owners. info
Certified by TNW: Sellers may have their used ebike certified by The New Wheel for a fee of 50.
Certified bikes are inspected by our service techs, the electric bike vitals (battery charge cycles, nominal voltage, etc.) are noted if applicable and inserted into the listing along with a dollar estimate for suggested repair work. Certified by The New Wheel is in no way a warranty or a guarantee; it is merely an honest inspection by our service department.
Tern GSD S00. 3,650
Purchased at TNW
Location: San Francisco
Seller’s Description: We love this bike but our kids have outgrown it. It’s from The New Wheel, serviced 2x/year on Comprehensive Service Plan at TNW, and in great shape! Has brand new Enviolo CVP Internally Geared Hub just built in, and just out of latest comprehensive service (Service Plan is transferrable to new owner). Includes the clubhouse rails, sidekick lower deck, large panniers, Abus U-lock, seat lock, cafe lock, plus upgraded Atlas kickstand. 6k initial purchase, plus up-to-date repairs and maintenance ever since. This is a rare deal for a fully loaded high-quality cargo bike. It is ready for your family to roll!
Riese Müller Tinker. 3,800
Purchased at TNW
Seller’s Description: Zippy, fun to ride, and easier to store than full size e-bikes. Original owner bike with ~1,500 miles. Well cared for and maintained. Never ridden in the rain. Excellent cosmetic and mechanical condition. Just a few scratches on the top of the battery case, which does not affect its function in the slightest.
It’s actually a very adjustable bike that will fit a wide range of rider heights. It can even be shared between riders of vastly different size because the handlebar height and angle are adjustable in addition to the seatpost height (my wife and I differ in leg length by 8 inches). It’s also very maneuverable in tight spaces, which makes it ideal for multimodal commutes involving a subway or train.
Gazelle Ultimate T10 HMB. 57cm. 2,999
Purchased at TNW
Location: Mill Valley
Miles: less than 100
Seller’s Description: Commuter bike in like new condition with upgraded suspension seatpost and Ortlieb trunk bag. Click here for more details.
GAZELLE CityZen T10. 46cm. 2,700
Purchased at TNW
Location: San Francisco
Seller’s Description: One owner. Bought new 2020 from The New Wheel with regular maintenance at The New Wheel, most recently June 2, 2023 with full tune up and pedal replacement.
Specialized Turbo Vado 4.0. Medium. 3,000 OBO
Purchased at TNW
Location: San Francisco
Seller’s Description: Up for grabs is my amazing 2018 Specialized Turbo Vado 4.0 EQ, size in Medium. With just over 1K/miles this incredibly quick and fast class 3 electric bike is in near Mint condition. Selling for 3,000 or best offer.
Upgrades include: larger Galfer rotors and SwissStop brake pads, Thudbuster seat suspension and a comfy Selle-Royal saddle, plus brand new Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires. Paint is Classic Napa Valley Merlot. Serviced exclusively at The New Wheel in Bernal SF. pics by request. Thanks for looking!
Gazelle Medeo T9. 45cm. 1,950
Purchased at TNW
Seller’s Description: Beautiful bike, low miles, well maintained, one owner. Latest tuneup April 2023. everything working great.
Tern Vektron S10 LR. 4,000
Purchased at TNW
Certified by TNW
Location: San Francisco
Seller’s Description: I am selling a Tern Vektron S10 in great condition, with less than 250 miles. It’s a wonderful bike, and I’m only selling because I’m getting a different model Tern.
The bike has a Comprehensive Service Plan that will be transferred to the new owner. I’ve also gotten the Used Bike Certification, including a Bosch diagnostics report, to show the bike is in excellent, like-new condition.
The bike has an upgraded chain and upgraded brake pads. I’ve also upgraded to a suspension seatpost and taller stem for added comfort. A bell, Tern pannier, and Abus U-Lock are also included.
Specialized Turbo Levo Comp Carbon. S3. 7,200
Location: San Francisco
Seller’s Description: Rode a couple of times. Purchased October 2022. Includes accessories I purchased for it, including front light and rear radar / light combo.
Moving to NY and would prefer not to take it with me.
Priority Current. Medium. 2,500
Location: San Francisco
Seller’s Description: Priority Current in Black with the Enviolo gearbox
Riese Müller Superdelite Rohloff. Large. 7,850 OBO
Location: Santa Rosa
Seller’s Description: Great bike. Excellent condition, hardly ridden and kept in garage. Electric Rohloff shifting. Includes rack bag. Will consider offers.
Tern GSD. 4,650
Seller’s Description: Original owner; excellent condition with very few miles; Rolling Jacka kickstand upgrade; recently inspected and maintained by reputable e-bike shop. all documentation available; brake pads just replaced; battery only has 23 cycle charges (lifetime estimate = 500); pedals and saddle will be swapped with original new equipment; cup holders and mirror not included; Tern Transporter rack and crate box negotiable (not pictured); includes lower deck, panniers (like new), seat pad, flat bars, Abus front wheel lock
Stromer ST3 Pinion. Medium. 7,750
Purchased at TNW
Location: San Francisco
Seller’s Description: Never ridden Brand New Stromer ST3 Pinion Non-ABS, Cool White, M-Size Sport Frame. With 983 Wh Battery.
Also includes the following accessories:-Kinekt BodyFloat LR Aluminum suspension seatpost (31.6 x 350mm, for 80 to 185 lbs)-Shimano Pedal XT Touring SPD w/ Platform dual-sided pedals (PD-T8000)-Basil Miles Rear Rack Bag- MIK, Black Lime-Basil MIK Accessory Adapter Plate, Black
Tern Vektron S10. 3,600
Purchased at TNW
Location: San Rafael
Seller’s Description: Breaks my heart to sell this bike, but sadly I have come to an age where I need a step-through, I also haven’t really needed a folding bike.
Here’s your chance to get the amazing folding ‘Like New’ Tern Vektron for a great price.It’s in brand new condition with only 48 miles as of this posting!
The nubs are still on the tires.Purchased at The New Wheel in 2021. Charger, keys and all paperwork included. Price is firm.
Tern GSD. 4,600
Seller’s Description: 2018 TERN GSD EBike. Selling for 4600.00 (Includes all extra parts. Recently tuned-up.) Current retail: 5,400 1,080 (extra parts) = 6,480 tax
Hello!We love our GSD Tern bike, but family needs have changed, so it is time to sell.May 2023 tune-up, including a Comprehensive Tune-Up and safety check, with The New Wheel. Low milage, low wear and tear, excellent condition. Includes Thule Yepp kidseat (Orange,) Clubhouse rails and seatpad, 2 Cargo Hold Panniers. Comes with Bosch eBike Systems Standard Charger 100-120V. Bike adjustable in size, fits people 4’11. 6’5. Ebike can carry a ton of weight and still fit into small spaces, including elevators small apartments. Holds 2 children in Clubhouse. Very stable ride. Was our second car for years. Kept insured and tuned-up since purchased. Please, see Tern website link for further details. Bike currently in storage.
Tern Vektron S10. 3,800
Purchased at TNW
Location: San Francisco
Seller’s Description: Love this bike but life changed and my new lifestyle requires a different bike. Purchased at The New Wheel and original owner. Recently had full Comprehensive Tune-Up in February 2023. Bike has been well maintained with yearly Comprehensive Tune-Ups and is in excellent condition; service records are available. The service plan recently ended in April of 2023 but can be added back on by the new owner. All paperwork and battery charger are included, along with black bungee cable to keep bike securely folded or for securing items to rear rack.
Upgrades and accessories:-Tern Market rear basket-Tern Hold ‘Em front rear basket-Tern Big Mouth pannier-Side view mirror-Bossless water bottle holder-Hexlox security system- Upgraded pedals
eBike Range: What to Know and How to Extend It
Range is one of the most important features you should consider when comparing eBike models.
E-Bike range can be hard to determine because it will differ from one situation to another and between different ebike batteries and motors. It’s quite hard to give a specific answer on how many miles a car can drive, and it’s just as difficult to give a straight answer about the range of an eBike.
This article will cover what eBike range is and why it’s such an essential factor to consider when choosing an eBike.
What is eBike range?
The range of an electric bike refers to the amount of time you can ride on one battery charge.
Bigger eBike batteries will give riders longer ranges because these batteries have a higher storage capacity.
What is the average range of an eBike?
There are many different electric bikes on the market, and they don’t all have the same range. The average range of most eBikes is between 20-100 miles/32-160 kilometers; of course, the exact range will always depend on factors such as the power mode, riding conditions, cargo load, and terrain.
How much further can you go on an eBike, compared to a regular bike?
Electric bikes can be ridden as easily as regular bikes, but you can ride further using the electric pedal assist. Pedal assistance allows eBikes to cover greater distances in less time than the same journey would take on a traditional cycle or mountain bike.
Unlike a traditional bike, an eBike battery has a limited range, so you need to be aware of your unique physical limitations and the range of your battery. You can extend your battery and ride further by pedaling on level surfaces and downhill and conserving your battery for uphill or other challenging sections of your ride.
You could expect to get 22-50 miles out of most eBikes on a single battery charge with relaxed pedaling. In other cases, you will be able to ride even farther. There are several electric bikes available that can get 50 miles on a single charge. Your electric bike’s range will always be impacted by factors such as the battery capacity, incline, wind, and weight and size.
Some pedaling will always be required on QuietKat eBikes, even for models that have a throttle. You’ll need to put some minimal effort into pedaling when riding up steep hills. Pedaling is excellent exercise and more fun, but it also extends the range of your battery.
While you’re out riding, it’s important to remember to track your time or miles covered. This precaution will help you keep track of your battery life, so you don’t run out of power at the wrong time.
Which eBikes have the longest range?
There can be many different variables when it comes to range. However, as a general rule of thumb, you should expect a more extended riding range from electric bikes that come with a battery with higher volts and amp-hours. Cheap eBike models on the market often have a minimal range and are only equipped with a 36V or 48V battery.
Do electric bikes recharge when you pedal?
It is usually not possible for electric bikes to recharge themselves while you pedal. An eBike battery generally does not work like a car battery and does not recharge itself while running. A small handful of electric bikes on the market can charge themselves while you pedal, but most will not. QuietKat bikes do not recharge themselves while pedaling and will need to be recharged with a power outlet or solar charger.
How is the electric bike range measured?
Most eclectic bikes measure range in Wh/Mi or Wh/km, depending on your country.
Wh/Mi is a commonly-cited metric used for electric vehicle (EV) efficiency. Wh/Mi stands for watt-hours per mile, or in the case of Wh/km, watt-hours per kilometer. The Wh/Mi metric (in the USA) is one of the easiest ways to work out how much energy or watt=hours (Wh) is required to move an electric vehicle such as an eBike or car 1 unit of distance (either one km or one mile). You will see this metric used on many cars, including electric vehicles such as Teslas.
How far can a 750W electric bike go?
Multiple factors will always impact range, but generally speaking, most 500-750W eBikes will get you around 25 Wh/Mi.
This estimate assumes that the electric bike is ridden on a flat or moderate incline. An electric bike with a 480Wh battery ridden in these conditions would provide you with approximately 19 miles of range. But a 750w electric bike can go approximately 28 mph (45 km/h) on flat ground.
A 750W electric bike is a popular choice for hunters, anglers, and ebike overlanding. Bikes of this motor size are moderately regulated without compromising on speed. We find that 750 watts are plenty for a hunting ebike.
Electric bikes with the most powerful motors are often more heavily regulated and consume battery power much faster than other Bikes. Because of this, 1000W eBikes can end up having more power but less range. Generally, 1000W electric bikes will come with a heavier, larger battery than most 750W eBikes. But we find for many use cases; a 750W bike is a sweet spot that provides both power and decent range.
Many of the 750W bikes in the QuietKat range are superior to 1000W bikes. For example, in the right conditions, the 750W version of the QuietKat Ridgerunner can take you up to 25 miles on a single battery charge. But the Jeep eBike goes even further and can be ridden for up to 40 miles on a single battery.
How far can a 250W electric bike go?
Most 250W electric bikes aren’t suitable for tough terrain. These types of eBikes are best for light city riding on fairly flat and even paths. That’s because there isn’t enough power or torque in an eBike with a 250 W system. You can’t power heavy riders up hills with a 250w eBike if you still want to maintain a reasonable amount of speed. Trying to use a 250w eBike like a 750w model will drain your battery exceptionally fast and result in a very short range. Cheap electric bikes with 250 W motors can only go around 15-20 mph when it comes to speed. If you’re a serious outdoor enthusiast, you should use an electric mountain bike with 750w or 1000w capability.
How do I determine the range of my electric bike?
It can be challenging to determine the exact range of an eBike because of the various factors we have discussed so far. Many manufacturers would be reluctant to put a precise range on their eBikes because conditions could easily impact the measurement. So how can you plan for eBike trips if you don’t know your range?
To determine the approximate range of your electric bike, you should first start by looking at the battery capacity.
The battery capacity will be noted on a bike’s description and in its manual. The battery capacity of an electric bike will usually be measured in Watt-hours (Wh). On occasion, you may see an eBike battery rated using volts (V) and amp-hours (Ah). For example, an eBike may be labeled as having a 48V 10Ah battery. If you want to convert volts and amp-hours to Wh, you should multiply the number of volts by the amp hours.
The next step is to calculate the effective bike range by taking the Wh capacity of the bike’s battery and dividing it by an average efficiency number (which can be in either Wh/Mi or Wh/km depending on the country).
Wait, what’s the efficiency number? At this point, the math can vary. Your efficiency number will vary based on many factors, such as the rider’s weight, incline, wind conditions, and tire choice. However, based on the earlier generalizations, a 750W eBike can go around 25 Wh/Mi.
How can I increase the range of my electric bike?
Naturally, every adventure enthusiast wants to use their eBike to ride further, faster, and for longer. Compared to traditional cycles, eBikes can undoubtedly provide you with these benefits. Plus, eBike batteries are continually seeing improved performance as new electric bike technology gets developed. But that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t aim to extend our range further to increase our scope for exploration!
Thankfully, there are several simple measures you can take to improve the range of your eBike. Follow our tips to improve the eBike’s range and squeeze out a little bit more power from your battery. And sure, you can always upgrade parts or update your battery to increase your range, but there’s a lot of easy changes you can make for free as well. A simple change in riding behavior can have a significant impact on your range.
Here are some easy habits and changes you can make to extend the range of your eBike.
Go easy on your throttle
Hand throttles aren’t standard in Europe but are prevalent in American eBikes. in addition to pedal-assist bike features. Many American riders (and those in other countries which allow hand throttles) will find that hand throttle is one of the quickest ways to drain your bike’s battery and reduce range.
Remember that each time you accelerate using the throttle, you are using significantly more battery power than you would while cruising or pedaling manually.
That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t ever use your throttle; after all, it’s there for a reason. But you’ll undoubtedly want to be discerning about when you choose to use your throttle. If you are riding up steep hills, you will naturally need to use it more extensively, but you should be aware this will limit your range.
Instead of using the full-throttle every time you want to accelerate, you should instead try to ease into the throttle. Yes, this will mean you accelerate a bit slower, but by sacrificing a little bit of speed, you can increase the longevity of your battery’s charge. This technique will help minimize the amount of battery power used by your bike each time you accelerate. Additionally, this method can also help keep the bike’s battery cooler, enabling the bike to use even more efficiently.
Pedal while you accelerate
If you’re reducing your reliance on the throttle, you will naturally find yourself pedaling more. It’s easy for riders to become reliant on their throttle and grow to dislike pedaling but remember it’s great exercise and will extend the range of your bike.
Regular pedaling will conserve battery, so you don’t have to continuously pedal later if your battery runs down! (And that’s what this article is trying to help you avoid)
By using the pedal-assist feature carefully while riding, you can make your range more efficient. Generally, most pedal-assist electric bikes will get you around 15 Wh/Mi when ridden around 15 to 18 mph utilizing medium levels of pedal assist.
Acceleration is usually the most significant single-use of battery power. especially if you stop and start frequently. If you can pedal while you accelerate, even just a few seconds, you can significantly reduce your battery usage. When you add up every acceleration, those few moments of pedaling can pay off as some pretty significant energy savings,
Coast when you can
Naturally, adrenaline junkies love to use the throttle of an eBike and get to those high speeds. But coasting can significantly increase your bike range.
But there’s something about coasting through the countryside and admiring the view that can be equally as fun.
Of course, there’s a time for coasting, and a time for pedaling. Here are some of the times you can coast to conserve battery energy (and your physical pedal strength).
- When you approach a stop
- When you’re on a smooth path
- As you come out of steep decline to the flat
- When the view is worth it!
As you approach a stop ahead, such as an intersection, you should let off the throttle and simply coast to the stop. Riding full throttle right up until you need to brake is just a waste of your bike’s precious battery energy. If you know that you will be coming to a stop, you can save your bike‘s power and your pedal energy by coasting for a minute. Sure, this extends the time of your ride slightly, but that can be a good thing. With more battery, you can ride for longer times and distances.
Plus, it doesn’t hurt to slow down in life occasionally. One of the best things about a QuietKat eBike is that it can take you into the great unknown to explore some of the country’s most beautiful and remote parts. If you’re powering through the woods at full speed, you won’t have a moment to take in the view, or metaphorically stop and smell the wildflowers.
There’s a time and place to slow down. Obviously, don’t slow down in a risky place for yourself or other riders, such as on a busy bike path or when riding in traffic. But slowing down, even by just a couple miles per hour, can make a significant difference in the range of your eBike. You would be surprised how slowing down even slightly can decrease the amount of energy you use by trying to maintain a high speed throughout your entire ride.
Ride in the right gear
Riding in the wrong gear can put more strain on your battery than you need to. As you grow more familiar with riding an eBike, you’ll grow accustomed to shifting gears correctly and in a way that can conserve your battery. When you’re riding on the flat, you can adjust your gears and level of power assistance relative to how much energy you want to exert peddling. If you’re out for a long, all-day ride, you can conserve your battery power while riding on the flat and only use it for hills.
Then when it’s time to tackle a steep hill, you can increase your bike’s power. You may need to change both power and gear levels to get the ideal speed and utilize your battery efficiency. As you go downhill, you should decrease the electric assistance level and use eco. Then, shift up to one of your highest mechanical gears.
To conserve battery, you should also shift your mechanical gears to a low and easy setting before you stop. When you stop the eBike in high gear, it makes it more challenging to start pedaling when you next ride, which can require more battery assistance to get you started.
By ensuring you adjust your gears while riding, you can preserve the battery life and extend the range of your electric bike. You should regularly adjust your cadence for more efficiency while riding. Riding all day in really high gear will make it much harder to push pedals, wasting your energy and the bike’s energy!
Riding incorrectly in the wrong gear. such as a high gear on a flat surface. will increase your reliance on using pedal assist, which will drain your battery faster. Check out our blog to learn more about eBike gears and how to use them.
Pump those tires!
Tires can have a big impact on the quality and comfort of your ride. The correct tire pressure can help make your ride more efficient and more comfortable, plus it can help prevent punctures and flat tires.
You should ensure that your eBike tires are kept pumped up to their maximum air pressure rating as much as possible. An eBike pump should be a standard part of your ebike maintenance kit. Certainly, your tires should at least be fully pumped when you set off, and ideally, you can top them up while on long rides as well.
Why does tire pressure matter?
Simply put, full tires have less rolling resistance. That means that your eBike’s battery doesn’t need to use as much energy to get you moving on full tires as it would on flat tires. The impact of tire pressure on performance is a well-known concept for car tires and something that eBike enthusiasts have also noted when riding their eBikes.
Filled tires that are maxed out can add some significant distance to your range. Who wouldn’t take a few minutes to pump their tires if it means getting a few extra miles in range on their next ride?
Choose the right tires
Choosing the right tires will also impact your range. Some terrains and conditions call for specialized tires. So if you’re riding in the snow or sand, for example, you should switch to the appropriate tire. This method puts less pressure on the throttle and battery to get your tires rolling on challenging terrain.
Check out our Vee Studded Tire if you want to get some extra grip on the trail.
Charge your batteries
It should go without saying that the most obvious way to extend your battery range is to diligently fully charge your battery before long journeys. Proper planning to ensure you charge your battery before a big ride will ensure you always get the best experience from your eBike.
Whenever you go out for a day ride, you should get in the habit of charging your bike overnight before you put it away. That way, if you decide to go for a spontaneous ride, you’re all ready to go!
Most eBike batteries, particularly lithium batteries, will get the best range when they are at 100% charge. You may be able to get away with charging an eBike battery once a week if you’re only making short trips on a commuter ebike. While this may conserve electricity, it will decrease your range and efficiency and harm your battery. If an eBike battery sits in a state of being partially discharged for most of its life, it may decrease performance. If you’re concerned with conserving electricity, then a solar panel charger is an eco-friendly alternative.
If your electric bike has been in storage for some time, you should check the batteries before your ride. Even if you store the bike at full charge, the batteries can drain if they haven’t been used for a long time. Think of your bike like a car and restart it every now and then if it’s not being ridden frequently. Regular battery maintenance will extend not only your ride but the lifespan of your eBike and its battery.
Bring a backup!
If you really want to extend your bike‘s range, a second battery may be required. You can easily keep a second, smaller charger on your eBike, or you can bring a solar charger for longer trips. It’s not too heavy to bring a second battery, so for multi-day trips, a backup is the best solution to extend your range. Carrying a second eBike power source or charging option is recommended for any eBike camping trips. Overlanding adventures, or when using an ebike for fishing or hunting excursions.
Portable eBike Solar Charging Station
Our portable solar charging stations are an excellent option for anyone who is going on extended trips on their eBike, or who wants to use an eco-friendly power source to charge their battery. With a solar charging station, you can extend your battery from almost anywhere in the world, even if you’re in the depths of the backcountry.
These compact chargers can fit easily in your backpack and connect directly to the bike battery for maximum efficiency. You can set up the solar charging panel while at your campsite, sitting in your deer stand, or when out on the water fishing, or while hanging out at the camp. The charge time of these solar chargers is roughly the same length as charging from a traditional outlet. But you will need to have the panel in direct sunlight.
Spare batteries can be a lifesaver if you misjudge your available range or want to extend your riding trip. Different QuietKat bikes are compatible with different batteries, so make sure you choose the right battery for your model if you need a spare.
- QuietKat Jeep Battery (14.5AH)
- QuietKat Q7 Battery (11.6AH)
- QuietKat Apex 1500w Battery (52V/17.5AH)
- QuietKat Pathfinder Battery (11.6AH)
- QuietKat Pathfinder Battery (14.5AH)
- QuietKat Pathfinder Battery (17.5AH)
- QuietKat Dorado Battery 10.5AH
- QuietKat Dorado Battery 16AH
Most of these tips can help you increase your range without spending any extra money. Naturally, if you want to take extended trips on your eBike, you may need to purchase a second eBike battery or a solar power charger. But for most day-trippers, a few changes in riding behavior can give you more bang for your buck and more battery to play with!
It’s crucial for all eBike riders to understand how their bike’s range works. Understanding the limitations of your bike’s battery will help prevent any unfortunate flat batteries down the line. By taking the proper conservation measures, you can use your bike’s battery to take longer and more fulfilling rides in the future.
The Myth of Ebike Wattage
Nearly every retail electric bicycle and ebike conversion kit is listed at a specific power level, such as a “500 watt electric mountain bike” or a “250 watt ebike conversion kit”, yet often this power rating is misleading or just plain wrong. The problem is that manufacturers don’t use the same standards to name their motors, and consumers often don’t understand the differences.
What’s a Watt?
Let’s start with some definitions and a bit of a physics lesson. A “watt” is a unit of power, named for Scottish Engineer James Watt.
Watts can be used to measure the instantaneous power output (or input) of a machine, such as the electric motor on your ebike. The number of watts used by an electric motor at any moment equal the voltage supplied by a battery multiplied by the current flowing from the battery to the motor. So an ebike motor connected to a 24V battery being supplied with 10 amps of current would be powered at 2410=240 watts.
As you can see, calculating the peak power of an ebike is simple. You just multiply the voltage of the battery by the maximum current the ebike can handle. The maximum current is determined by the ebike’s controller, and is usually somewhere between 15-30 amps. An ebike with a 48V battery and a 20 amp peak controller would theoretically be capable of a nominal 960 watts of instantaneous power.
This is where things get complicated though, because ebike manufacturers don’t always rate their parts this way.
Lies! Deception! Blasphemy!
This happens for a number of reasons. A common cause is to skirt importation laws. Many European countries limit imports to electric bicycles with a motor rated at 250 watts or less. 250 watts is not very much power by ebike standards. Professional cyclists can put out more than 400 watts on leg power alone.
So in order to clear their electric bicycles for import to as many countries as possible, many ebike manufacturers rate the components on their ebikes much lower than what they are in reality.
Here is a great example of a 250 watt electric bicycle conversion kit. It comes with all the parts except the battery, a pretty standard motor rated by the vendor as “250” watts, and a pretty decent price of about 250 including shipping. But when we look at the specifications, we see the 36V controller has a peak current limit of 15A. Doing the math shows us that 36V 15A = 540 peak watts.
This is very common in the industry. Ebikes sold with “250 watt” motors often come standard with 36V batteries and 15 or 20 amp controllers. As we saw, a 15 amp controller would mean the actual peak power supplied to the motor is closer to 540 watts and a 20 amp controller would be over 700 watts.
How do ebike manufacturers get away with this? One way is to rate the motor for “continuous power” instead of “peak power”. The difference between continuous power and peak power is that continuous power essentially means power a motor can safely handle for an indefinite amount of time without damage or overheating the motor. A “250 watt continuous” motor, theoretically, could run forever at 250 watts without overheating, but any more power would cause it to eventually overheat. If the motor is truly a 250 watt motor by definition, then running this motor at 251 watts would eventually cause it overheat.
Is it ok for ebike companies to rate their motors this way? Technically yes, if the numbers are accurate. But most of the time a “250 watt continuous” motor can handle more than 250 watts continuously, meaning the numerical naming convention is inaccurate and misleading.
The problem here isn’t the morality of underrating ebike specifications (this is one of the few times you usually get more than you pay for), it’s that this often confuses customers and makes comparing different motors much more difficult.
a “250 watt” motor that I run at 500 watts
How can you best use power ratings?
When comparing ebikes or ebike kits, it is important to know first of all if you are comparing continuous or peak power. When someone advises that a 220 lb rider would likely need at least a 1,000 watt motor, he or she usually means 1,000 watts of peak power, as in the amount of power the ebike should be able to produce to drive the rider up a hill.
A 500 watt electric bicycle conversion kit may be listed as a 500 watt kit, yet a closer inspection could show that the kit comes with a 48V battery and a 20 amp peak controller. The math shows us that this kit is in fact capable of putting out 48V x 20A=960 watts, essentially a 1,000 watt kit. What might have initially appeared to be too weak (advertised as 500 watts) is actually an approximately 1,000 watt peak kit, perfect for our 220 lb rider we used in the example about above.
Lawmakers are ignorant about ebikes (among other things)
This is also an interesting example of how nonsensical many electric bicycle laws are. Limiting the wattage of ebike motors doesn’t necessarily limit how powerful they can be. Even though a motor is marked as 250 watts (and even if it may actually be a true 250 watt motor), anyone could connect it to a 48V battery and run 20 amps through the motor to achieve 1,000 watts of power. Of course this could eventually damage or destroy the motor, but it is still demonstrates how it is entirely possible from a practical standpoint.
In fact, direct drive motors such as the Nine Continent are often listed as 500 or 1,000 watt motors, but many people have had success running them at over 3,000 watts by drilling out the cover plates to provide additional air cooling to the motor. Other modifications such as increasing the gauge of the wires carrying power to the copper windings can help maximize the useful power output of these strong, underrated motors.
These examples should reinforce the take-home message here: when you are looking into an electric bicycle or ebike conversion kit, always calculate peak watts in your mind (volts x amps) to do a fair comparison of the actual power you can expect out of any ebike setup. That way you’ll know what type of power level you’ll really experience when you’re ready to twist the throttle.
Micah is a mechanical engineer, tinkerer and husband. He’s spent the better part of a decade working in the electric bicycle industry, and is the author of The Ultimate DIY Ebike Guide. Micah can usually be found riding his electric bicycles around Florida, Tel Aviv, and anywhere else his ebikes wind up.
Комментарии и мнения владельцев
We have bought two hub motor rating 60v and 2000w…we are using battery of 48v and 32amp. We want to give this to both the motar. We want to know the uncharging time. And importantly can we get the maximum speed?
the discharge time (the amount of run time) is impossible to calculate without knowing the conditions of the ride. You’ll have to experiment on that yourself. To calculate speed, determine the original speed the motor was rated at for 60V and multiple that speed by 4/5 (which is 48V/60V).
i have a 1000w motor and 48v battery with 30Amp controller then i need to know the battery consumption of the motor according to the motor power when a certain load is applied on it. how can i calculate it
The instantaneous battery consumption (in watts) is equal to the instantaneous current (in amps) multiplied by the instantaneous voltage (in volts). So using your 30A controller, if you were using full power, like during acceleration or hill climbing, you’d multiply the 30A by your voltage. Your exact voltage changes depending on the current, but let’s just assume it’s right at 48V. So you’d have 30A x 48V = 1,440 watts. Interestingly, the wattage of the motor isn’t very relevant here, as long as it’s providing a load to the controller sufficient that the controller wants to give it full power (in the case described above) or any amount of power, such as during flatland cruising where you might only be pulling 10A (or 10A x 48V = 480 watts). Hope that helps!
i got it but i have to know the charge that is going to discharge from the battery when connected with respect to the time.
As in the watt hours? If your load isn’t constant then that is very difficult to calculate. With a constant load it is just Volts x Amps x hours = watt hours. But if your load is normal riding then you’re stopping and starting and going up hills. At that point you’d basically have to take the integral and get the exact VxAxH=Wh at every second and sum them up. Alternatively, you can just test this by using a wattmeter or cycle analyst.
If motor has a tag of 350w 48 v. Current controller is 48v 20 amps. Can controller be upgraded to 60 volts 20 amps? Can the motor handle it.
It depends. The controller can likely handle 60V but you’ll have to check the capacitors inside to be sure. Most 48V motors can handle higher voltages but if you use high power for extended periods of time then you can risk overheating the motor.
Hey Micah, I was wondering if it was possible to run my 48v 1000w rear hub motor @ 36v 500w? Is it as easy as just plugging in a 36v battery and 36v controller, and will I run into any efficiency issues doing this? My reason for doing this is so I can utilize my 10cell hobby charger and avoid a bms and also to have a slightly longer but slower ride. Is there any sense in this, keeping in mind I am stuck with a 48v 1000w motor? Thanks!
You can definitely do that. Like you said, just use a 36V battery and a matching 36V controller. The downside is you’ll get about a 25% drop in speed by using 36V instead of 48V, but it will still work.
Hi Micah, Congratulations for your site is amazing and i have learn a lot with it. I leave in Europe and we have the 250v limitation law, so my question is related to the following and having in considering the bike features: Range – 10ah – 25 Miles Motor – Xiongda 2 – 636V250W brushless geared rear motor Controller – Tongsheng – 36V15A speed sensor, aluminium Battery – Lithium Ion 36v / 10aH Yoku/Samsung with lock I want to get more speed from the 250V engine so i need to increase the power to 46v so far so good, but instead of changing the controller or even the battery, can I increase the output power at the end of the controller to give more voltage to the engine, like adding a voltage multiplier or something of that kind ? Kind Regards
Or i can buy one more battery with 12v 10ah and plug in serie and this way i will get the 48v 10ah, but will this will fry the controller?
To increase speed you’ll need to increase voltage. 48V is the next standard step up. Some 36V controllers can handle 48V, others will fry. To determine if yours will be ok, you’ll need to open it up and check if the capacitors are rated for 50V (not good enough) or 63V (should be fine on 48V). You could either add a 12V 10AH battery in series to your battery as you mentioned in your other post (clunkier and more difficult solution) or replace the 36V battery altogether with a 48V battery (the cleaner, easier but more expensive solution).
I have two Hilltopper battery/controllers each 24V 6.6Ah with the 8fun 250 watt front wheel hub. I’m having troubles with hills and not range or speed. Can I combine the two battery packs in series (making 48V) to help on hills or will it not help me on hills? If it does, do you know offhand what controller Hilltopper uses for controller board components. I can’t find specs on the 8fun or the controller board. Would I need to buy a new 48v controller? If it does help on hills in series or parallel do I wire the batteries to one controller or both controllers? Thanks.
Yes it will give you twice the power which will help on hills, but the hilltopper controller is almost certainly not rated for 48V so you’d need to find yourself a 48V controller. Also, your motor will try to spin twice as fast, resulting in a faster ride, though if the motor doesn’t have enough torque to get up to the speed it wants to go, you’ll end up wasting lots of power as heat and potentially overheating the battery. I’ve always found it comical that Clean Republic’s kits are called “hilltoppers”. They are fine kits, don’t get me wrong, but what they are best at is flat ground cruising, where they are one of the most economical options. They simply don’t have any power for “topping hills”.
Micah, Great article, but not being an engineer, I’m still a little confused on the nuances of this. For instance, I’m looking at a electric cargo bike. One of them is the Juiced which comes with three different battery sizes all connected to the same “500 watt” motor and 48Volt battery. There is a 15AH, a 23AH and 32AH version of the battery. If I do the math using your article the 32AH battery will provide over a 1500 watts of power…is that right? Or am I confusing the AH of the battery with the amperage of the “peak controller”? And then you have to consider the weight of the different batteries…my walnut sized brain starts to spin and things stop computing properly. Can you help clear this up in my head. And please use easy words, I’m not that bright (at least according to my wife.) Thanks. Lloyd
” Or am I confusing the AH of the battery with the amperage of the “peak controller”?” That’s exactly what you’re doing. AH is capacity (think gallons in a gas tank) and A or Amps is current (think the rate of flow of that gas into the carbs or fuel injectors). To get the power in watts you need to multiply the current (amps) that the controller is pulling by the voltage of the battery. Those different AH batteries are just like different volume gas tanks. Tell your wife to go easy on you, I’m sure you’re plenty bright
Hi mitch, Wanted to ask, my electric scooter is a 48 v, 1000 watt scooter with 33 ah controller. had 33 ah batteries, but, i want to install fresh 42 ah batteries. Will i burn the controller or will i be fine? Thank you
Increasing the amp hours (capacity) of the batteries won’t have an effect on your controller at all. Think of it like just installing a bigger gas tank… that won’t hurt the car’s motor, it will only allow it to run longer.
Hi. if i would like a ebike that is able to run 62mph on 72v 12ah lead acid batteries. what controller and motor specs would be approriate?
I’m sorry but that’s just a bad idea. A) 62 mph is ridiculously fast for an ebike and becomes dangerous unless you have a really high quality bike and know how to ride at those speeds, which is more like hanging on than riding… and B) at those speed weight is even more important and you don’t want a huge amount of lead acid on that frame.
I am not sure it is as simple as saying a motor’s power is the input watts = volts x amps of the battery and motor controller. The power applied by the motor to the wheels are the actual output watts and this is how a motor should be rated in my view. The output power depends on the load the bike is under…. incline, weight of bike/rider the speed it is doing etc etc so very confusing and no straight answer as the efficiency of the motor varies (and the output power) with the load. The endless sphere wiki at https://endless-sphere.com/w/index.php/EBike_Efficiency#Rating_By_Watts_Input_Or_Watts_Output has a good write up on this. The writer concludes that motor output power is ~ 40% of input power according – the rest is lost in heat.
Phil, you are absolutely right. There are also a lot of parasitic losses between the motor and the ground. But it’s both hard to explain, account for and calculate the exact output power in every situation. The easiest and best proxy for comparison then is the input power to the motor. After that it gets very situational as you correctly explained.
Yeah, we want more power, 250w not much over ½ a person power, guess some 1 said ‘Let them have ½ as much as a moped’, but we ended up with ½ the speed, instead of the power of a 25cc engine. Cliché time ’20 is plenty’ (but let’s be naughty go at 40).
WATT is that all about, he didn’t invent steam engine, he converted 1 of Newcoman’s to use ¼ as much fuel. So guess he reduced pollution, or did we just us 4 times as mean? while I’m here, de Vinci didn’t invent the bike, was 4 wheeled powered hands, OK?
Hi, Micah, I recently purchased a little 24V / 250 watt ebike (Yukon Trail Navigator) and I’m considering upgrading the motor controller to a 36V / 500W and a 36V 10-12 Amp battery. I don’t have much info about the motor, it simply has a sticker on it that says 24V. Do you suppose my motor can safely run at 36V? Or do I need to worry about replacing that as well? Thanks!
Generally speaking, most 24V ebike motors can do fine on 36V. If you planned on riding up a really steep hill for a long time then you might get into overheating issues, but that would be an extreme case.
hi. I am planning to build friction drive ebike. I thought i would go with 42V and 6.8A. could you guide what would be the range i would be receiving in idle stage with configuration where i use 18650 3.4Ah batteries and my motor has 190Kv. These setup is been connect over normal 26 inch tire. Looking forward for your valuable comment.
I’m sorry but it’s hard to calculate without knowing all of your parameters, some of which (such as the friction coefficient) you pretty much won’t know until you build the thing. Your best bet is to build it and see…
Hello Micah I just purchased a ebike kit 5.2 ah Samsung 10k 24v 250 w. Now I find that it is a 5 mile without paddle assist, and 9 mile with. thinking about increasing the range to about 30 miles. what would I need to know to do this, I will purchase your video, do it have a section or chapter to increase the range of the battery? And where do i get the tools and batteries etc. your Комментарии и мнения владельцев will be appreciated. Thank you
Basically you have two options: either buy a bigger battery (or more batteries of the same size to swap out) or open your battery and add cells in parallel. I’m currently working on a video to demonstrate this. In the meantime, watch this video but just imagine adding the cells in parallel instead of in series: https://www.YouTube.com/watch?v=9KHo-T74IWA
Hi, for a 250 watt bicycle, instead making a 48V custom made battery kit drive with around 5 amp to archive is there anyway I can use ten normal 2 port power bank like this https://www.anker.com/products/A1271011. by theory can I series this ten power bank, with each using both port to output 4.8A, so i still can have 50V 4.8A to archive 240 watt ? it is possible? I have no idea how to series the 10 power bank
In theory yes, but in practice no. You’ll get a really wonky battery that can’t handle much power and will die incredibly quickly.
Hi, What if I want high power but at low capacity (imagine e-bike sharing in hilly area) 200Wh of energy is enough but how do I realize this if the motor is dimensioned for 36V. Would I lose power with a 25V/8ah battery (chemistry can handle 2C comfortably) or is for example 36V/5ah battery configuration with cells that can handle 4C discharge better? I like the bafang “350W” (36V x 18amp). the 500 to 600W of assistance is really necessary to comfortably do slopes of 5 to 10% but I think the batterypack 4P10S x ICR18650 is too big. but these cells already lose a lot of their claimed capacity at 3C. What is your advise on this matter? Thanks in advance for your time!
http://ecolo-cycle.com/en/electric-bike/cargo-electric-bike/ i recently got this ebike from a buddy…but im very dissapoint about the speed and the look of it. im thinking about putting the electric component to a normal bike…and wondering how i can max out the speed of it…without spending too much. thanx
It looks like it’s got SLA batteries, no? The cheapest way to increase the speed would be to buy another 12V SLA brick and wire it in series to boost the voltage to 60V. That should give you about a 20-25% boost in speed. You’ll likely need a 60V controller though if that 48V controller can’t handle the overvolting.
Read about e-scooter I was thinking of buying, 1 could 12 volts to get 60, (guess top speed 30 » 37½ mph ). But controller would cut off fully charged battery @ 65 volts. So 1 could either turn lights on @ 1st, or use push switch left from starter on petrol engine to only switch extra 12 volts after journey started.
I have a 48v 1000watt electric bike front motor on a three wheel Schwinn. I run four 35ah batteries to get 48v. I average 40 miles but the motor is not powerful enough for what I’m looking for. I found a 48,60, or 72v option on a 3000 watt electric front motor. I’m trynna get the most pulling power not speed, so which will produce more power four batteries at 48v on 3000watts. Or 60v, or 72v on 3000watts. I’m confused just trynna get the most power not speed. My bike is 220 lbs with the batteries and 450 lbs with me on it. So I need more pull not speed. Any ideas on this will be helpful thanks…
The 3,000W motor on 72V will give you more pulling power than the same motor on 60V or 48V since power = volts current (amps), but the higher voltage will also result in a higher top speed. What you want is a direct drive motor with a slow winding, meaning more turns of copper inside the motor. Check out the guys at Kinaye Motor Sports https://kinayems.com/ and ask for a 3,000W motor that has a very slow winding. Then run that sucker at high volts and you’ll be pulling stumps out of the ground if you can get enough traction!
Micah- Recently purchased your Ebike book. Excellent tool for the first time Ebike builder! My questions is about using a motor “Rated” at 48V 1000W 470RPM High motor efficiency 80%. I’m waiting for the kit to arrive, but I assume the controlled will probably be a 20A controller. Can I use this kit with a Bottle type of battery rated at 36V 10AH? I really like the simplicity of the Bottle type battery and I’m not looking for a lot of speed. My commute is less than 3 miles but in a hilly area. Would this set up be ok for my purpose? Or should I get a 48V 10AH battery? Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed the book! To answer your question, that motor could run off of that battery, albeit at a slower speed due to the lower voltage. However, that 48V controller won’t work with a 36V battery because you’ll be below the low voltage cutoff most of the time. You’d need to either get a 36V controller or upgrade to a 48V battery.
Hello im so happy i found your web site.I bought an electric scooter recently and my thurst about knowing whats happenning under it is breathtaking.Your info’s were great.I have a lead acid battery 48 v 12 ah and i want to convert it to lithium but i dont understand why chinese manufacters are recommending the type of motor for their lithium battery pack.Like for example a 48 v 20 ah battery pack.recommended 1000 w motor or under 1440 w the most.From your informations the controller does the hard work and math.Also if i have a 48 v battery can i connect a 2000 w motor 60 v and a recommended controller for that specific motor(60 v 2000 w-54 A ).Whats the math with the voltage of the battery and the other components?Also that amp hour thing.and the last question.The controller provides like 30 a to the motor from a battery with 48 v 12 ah.So u can calculate the time until it wil dry out?and from your calculating a 30 a controllor and a 48 v battery=1440 w,but i have a 1000 w motor.can it provide that power ?
To answer your questions: Chinese manufacturers often suggest a certain wattage motor that would be appropriate for their batteries. I can’t say for sure, but I believe this is because most of the time their customers don’t understand that it’s largely the controller that defines how much power will be drawn from the battery. Instead, most people just think that a bigger motor (which usually means a bigger [i.e. higher current] controller), means more current draw from the battery. Which is usually correct, but it’s not the most accurate way to specify the parts. Next, if you have a 48V battery, and then you connect it to a motor that is advertised as a 60V motor, you’ll find that the motor will spin slower than advertised, as the speed of the motor is defined by the voltage of the battery. In order to determine the power of the ebike, you’d simply multiply the 48V of the battery by the current limit on the controller. For example, if you used a 30A controller then you’d have an approximately 1,440 W ebike. To calculate the life of the battery you’d divide the capacity of battery (in AH) by the current being drawn. If you pulled 30A continuously, you’d get 12AH/30A = 0.4 hours of driving time. But you won’t be pulling 30A continuously. Maybe you’ll average 15A, considering some time at high current and sometimes at low current. That would give you 12AH/15A = 0.8 hours of driving time, on average.
Thanks for the answers.yes i went down on a paper and i calculate what u did after i send the reply.but If i have 4 batteries 12 v 12 ah that 0.8 hours multiplies by 4 or IT remains the same?
So u could drain the same amount of amps from a battery different motor if u mentain the same speed right?and another question.a company is selling an electric scooter with 1600w brushless motor and they say he can produce 1900 w power 70 km/h speed.that is from the controller combined with the fact that IT is brushless ?
It remains 12AH because you are wiring them in series. So 4 pieces of 12V 12AH in series becomes 48V 12AH. If you wired them in parallel instead you’d have 12V 48AH.
I was thinking 24 volts, 250w ~=10a, so going @ 15 mph I’d get 1½ miles for each Ah of the battery. The Ah of battery is what you get using a constant current for 10 hours, so yes in theory, but would weight so much that you’d not get anywhere @ all!
Hi Micah, Thanks for this wonderful post. I am a bit curious about your motor. At a local importer’s shop, I saw a 36V 350Watt motor just like your pic (250 Watt silver color motor), but I didn’t buy that motor because I didn’t find DISC BRAKE installing option (usually what we see is that 6 holes at one side of the motor). Is your 250 Watt motor capable of installing a disc brake? (both the motors look similar to me)
Some motors accept disc brakes and some motors don’t. You’re right about checking for those 6 holes. If you see 6 holes on the side of the hub in a circle then it should accept disc brakes.
Hello Micah, I am in process to build my fisrt electric bike. I have an 36V-750 W Aotema front wheel with a peak of 1200W. The motor is brushless and senseoreless. My question: Is the Controller wattage important? I found some offers with a 36 V controller and 30 AMPS but the wattage is 350 some others are at 500. Thanks
Use the amps printed on the controller to get a better idea of its power level. The wattage is likely referring to continuous rating, not peak. For example, the 36V 30A controller gives a peak power draw of 3630 = 1,080 watts. The 500 watt rating means that it can handle 500W continuously, but if you tried to pull 1,000W for an hour continuously you’d probably burn the controller.
Hello Micah! Hats off ! great article.I am just trying to get into the eBike scene. Ive seen many conversion kits available but in my country buying the bike from right out of the box is cheaper. Quality aside, i am not sure if this bike can haul my 85kg butt over hilly terrain say 6% gradient.http://stonbike.com.my/portfolio-item/bike-lan2601alumium/.If i actually need more power then i might opt for the conversion kits. I have a standard bike which is use but i dread the days that i have to be drenched in sweat just to go into town to buy a soda. Your opinion is appreciated
This article refers to a watt as a unit of power, however, a Watt is a unit of Electrical power,not mechanical, so when a motor is described as 250W,this is the input power. A 500w motor would roughly provide 1/2HP, because of losses in motor. I have found that brushless DC motors are less efficient than commutator motors,the copper commutatotor and brush gear is a very efficient device.3 phase synchronous motors,(as now fitted to many vehicals) are the best,but need a vfd drive.
Hi Micah! First of all, congratulations for your work here! I’m Brazilian and I have a Electric Scooter Sonik Eagle King 1500W here in Brazil. Unfortunately, we yet no have places for do repair on e-bikes here. I have a problem with my motor controller and I will change this. My battery is 60V 38A and my motor controller is 60V 35A. Can I put a motor controller 60V 50A of 2500W for become more faster? The manual sayd that the motor is 1500W but I not found this confirmation on wheels superficie. Thank you My Friend!
It depends. If you are hitting the 35A when you are at top speed, then increasing the current limit on the controller will give you more speed but it is the current limit that is stopping you from pulling more power to go faster. If you aren’t hitting the current limit though, that is to say you are cruising at top speed and pulling less than 35A, then swapping your controller to a higher current limit won’t make you faster because your top speed isn’t limited by the current at that point but rather it is limited by the motor.
Hi Micah- Currently own cyclamatic bafang 250 watt motor on a 24V 10Ah li-ion set up. For upgrade, I ebay purchased 48V 12Ah battery and a china controller that label reads 36/48 V – 18amps – 350 watts. The label confuses me? 48 X 18 = 864 peak watts. Where does 350 watts come into play? Is this based on a nominal amperage? Can some controllers have a preset wattage? Btw, controller has 7 mosfets. Great site! Thank you.
Hey Terry, Good question. The difference here that is important to take note of is maximum instantaneous power versus maximum continuous power. If your controller is pulling 18 amps, then you’d multiply that 18A by whatever voltage you are running to get your max instantaneous power. On a 24V battery that would be about 432 watts and on a 48V battery that’d be the 864 peak watts you calculated. The controller is “under rated” at 350 watts because they are likely using a max continuous rating. If you were to pull 18A all day (for instance driving continuously up an infinitely long hill) then you’d probably burn out that controller. In reality you would get to the top of that hill and the current would drop back down to a reasonable level, probably in the low teens and thus under the 350 watt continuous rating. Here’s another example: I’ve used been happy with this controller on a few builds. It’s rated as a 600W controller but has a current limit of 30A. On a 48V battery you’d pull about 1400 watts during extreme conditions, but when you factor in stops at traffic lights and normal flat land cruising, you don’t actually spend very much time above the max continuous rating.
We are looking to buy an eBike for the Rangers of our local state park to allow them to respond to emergencies on remote trails. Some of the trails in the park are moderately steep and in various states of repair. The Rangers wear full law enforcement gear, adding 30 pounds to their normal body weight (total maximum weight would be appox. 210 lbs.). Can you recommend an appropriate bike or provide guidance for our purchase? Thank you.
It sounds like you’re going to want a combination of a powerful motor, low gearing (for steep terrain) and a sturdy mountain bike potentially with full suspension (for the rough terrain). A good option could be the Bafang BBS02 mid drive motor (or the even higher powered BBSHD), as it would allow a good amount of power and the ability to use very low gearing in an offroad environment. The best price would be getting it straight from China (http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/i2bUrzNVR) or if you’d prefer to source the kits in the US, a company called California Ebike has excellent service and support. http://california-ebike.com/product/8fun-mid-drive-electric-bicycle-kit/ California Ebike also has a good geared motor kit that I’d also recommend. If you are looking for a ready-made ebike, your options are a bit more limited and the price will start going up quickly. There aren’t many off-road capable, powerful ebikes on the market for an affordable price. The Optibike would be a great option, but it costs many thousands of dollars. That’s why DIY is such a good option – you could build your team equally capable ebikes for a fraction of the price.
I love it, from the title to the end! My ‘450w’ currie pulls a measured 35A at 24V… a mere 840W! The next discussion might be about range on a given Ah pack? I see on other forums a seemingly random 20Wh / mile figure being tossed around. That’s fine well and good, my bike with my chubby arse (95kg) has been measured at 9.5-10A on flat ground with no wind, wide open. That comes pretty close to the 20Wh figure (24 really). And since it’s 24v it ends up being 1Ah per mile. Almost everyone skips the part about how the x or y ah are rated. I think most battery specs are measured across the full range of the pack v-max to v-min at 20hour rate (unless otherwise stated). This can be WAY below the cut off voltage of a bike PWM controller. Keep up the good work, and Micah if you’re anywhere near Daytona, drop me a line please!
Hi, Thank you for the great article. I had a newbie question. If I have a bag an motor rated 36v 500w can I mate it to a 48v battery? Is this bad? What exactly Is the difference between a 36v and 48v rated 500w motor? Hope you can help thank you
Hi Ben, Theoretically speaking, any DC motor can be mated to a 48V battery. The voltage just changes the speed that the motor spins. A motor that is “rated” for 36V means it achieves its intended speed at that voltage. If you run it at 48V, it would go faster (exactly 48/36 = 1.33 times faster). Practically speaking, the answer to the question of whether this is “bad” or not is more difficult to answer. The higher voltage you use, the more power you’re using as well. Moving up from 36V to 48V likely isn’t going to be a big enough difference to cause large problems, at least not immediately. If your motor has plastic internal gears, the higher power could cause those plastic teeth to wear out a bit faster over time. If you’re going up a large, long hill then the added power could cause the motor to overheat sooner. Generally speaking, I quite often overvolt to 48V gearless motors that are marked 36V. I have done the same for geared motors as well, but I often limit the current to cut down on the power, resulting in more speed but similar or only slightly higher power output. My current bike has two 36V 350 watt motors that I’m running each at 52V and 10A, for about 500W at each motor. I don’t recommend that to everyone, but I live in a flat area and use a CycleAnalyst to watch my systems and make sure everything is staying at safe levels. I hope that helps you!
No, it = 0·33 times faster, or a speed of 1·33 as fast. I’ve 48v/1000w motor but only 24v battery, can’t find 24v/500w brushless controllor or it.
sos…I need help,i built a wagon that I want to go 35 miles per hour at a steady pace………….I would like it pushed by a wheel on each side…so 2 ebike wheels.total load of me and wagon would be about 280lbs….im wanting 28 inch wheels,regular width….where do I order such a thing….battery size for both wheels ect
It sounds like you’re starting at square one here and have many questions, which is awesome, but I think the ebike forum Endless Sphere (http://www.ebikeschool.com/endless-sphere-use/) will be a more helpful place to ask these questions as you will receive advice and guidance from many different perspectives. My initial two cents though are that you should rethink your design goals. 35 mph in a wagon sounds like a very unstable proposition. This could certainly be accomplished technically by two hub motors, likely fast winding direct drive motors at 48V, but there are many safety concerns for a vehicle like this.
Thanks again for the response and all the advice. Ive been online trying to figure out how to just make a battery, and controller. All seems like alot. After looking at the site i sent you im now convinced it doesn’t have a battery either. Sucks but I did have these other sites as well. I hope you can give me your expert advice The fusion says 70miles at 20mph. Which sounds OK but I wanted to build a folding motorcycle that looks like a bike and can do 50mph with some kind of switch to keep it 15, 30 and finally 50mph even if it was just the 30 and 50 but now I’m thinking about what your saying about the motor not fitting… I seen two folding bikes I would like to consider. Do you think any of these can maintain at least 30-40mph or am I just stuck with solid frame. I seen one of those bikes pictured with a hub motor in the ninja star wheel (I don’t know what kind of wheel it is) but can that be done? Online Shop Full suspension mountain bike folding bicycle scooter lithium battery car downhill mountain bikes|Aliexpress Mobile http://m.aliexpress.com/item/1939754136.html Fusion- High Performance Electric Bike | Indiegogo https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/fusion-high-performance-electric-bike#/story http://m.alibaba.com/product/60133611915/2015-new-design-24-speed-36V/specifications.html?s=p
I’ve been doing a bunch of research and I have some new ideas about building this bike…. Before anything ID like to thank you for hearing me out… This build is on my mind a lot. Anyway I’d like to take a folding bike and put 2 motors on it (a 2000w in front and 5000w in the back). ID like to also build a battery that can power both kits at the same time. Even though I’d like to put a switch that keeps the front one off until I feel I need that extra power. Here’s where my real questions come in… if I want to say maintain 30-40 with the back one alone and 50 with both. Am I going over board with a rear 5000w or is that the minimum? Again I’d like to be able to do 50mph continuous for about 50miles or more. Or at least have the option to do so. than likely the bike will operate at 30mph 80% of the time but doing so I’m expecting more than 50 mile range. Say 60 or 70. Next question is and I’m not sure how much you know about batteries but I seen these at Batteryspace.com for 18 A123 System High Power Nanophosphate LiFePO4 26650 Rechargeable Cell: 3.2V 2500 mAh, 120A Rate, 8.0Wh – UN38.3 Passed Not sure how this works but if I took 60 of these in series would that give me 180v at 7,200ah? Or am I calculating this wrong? If you don’t know, it’s cool I’ll hit up you tube after this too. Other questions are what kind of frame, ie aluminium, carbon fiber, steel ect… would you recommend I use for this. I’ve seen nice carbon fiber bikes on aliexpress but also seen nice aluminium frames. does it matter what kind of frame I use if the bike has front and rear suspension? Definitely Disk brakes but which are better, floating mechanical or hydraulic? What kind of controller would I need for this battery? Lot of questions huh? Lol. My fault bro. I get carried away when I have an idea… any help or advice is very appreciated. Thank you again in advance.
You’ve got a lot of questions, which is awesome! But I want to recommend that you check out Endless Sphere and post some questions there. Endless Sphere is the largest online ebike community, and there are tons of people like me that can all answer your questions. That way you get more opinions than just mine, and other people can follow along and learn too. I wrote an article about ES here: http://www.ebikeschool.com/endless-sphere-use/ Now to try and answer your questions: A dual motor ebike is a bit more complicated, but can be done. You’d ideally want to match the speeds of the motors, otherwise the slower one won’t be doing much good when you’re going faster than it is designed for. Actually, if you put 60 of those cells in series, you’d have a 192V 2.5AH battery – which wouldn’t be good for really anything. You’d want to parallel and series them, so you get good capacity in addition to high voltage. I wrote an article on battery building that you might find helpful: http://www.ebikeschool.com/how-to-build-a-diy-electric-bicycle-lithium-battery-from-18650-cells/ I’d be very wary of trying to do 50mph on an aliexpress frame, or any folding frame for that matter. Folders are generally (though not always) less rigid. You want a good strong bike for those speeds. Trying to use a cheap bike on a 50 mph ebike build is a recipe for disaster. At those speeds you’re putting your life in the hands of your machine. Do you really want to be relying on cold welds and cheap tubing? Hydraulic and mechanical disc brakes both have advantages and disadvantages. Hydraulics are generally considered higher level, but good mechanical brakes are plenty for most riders. Again, I recommend checking out Endless Sphere due to the amount of questions you have and the amount of planning you still have left to do. That way many people can help you choose parts and plan out a safe, awesome ebike.
Reading MuertoInc’s plans causes great concern. Let me explain with a story. I live on an island, and to get to town, we have to take the ferry. E bikes are allowed on the boat for free so when we get to the city, which is hilly, we have mobility and gridlock means nothing to us. My group has been active in promoting ebikes on the island, and now they are very popular. One of our elected officials was riding her ebike to the ferry, not paying attention or going too fast and she managed to run over one of the ferry staff. So now the security force down there is forcing all riders to dismount for the final 100 yards are so. It’s a legal public road, and they don’t have the legal right, but we now have a fight on our hands because one bad Apple (ironically an elected official) was riding irresponsibly. When I read MuertoInc, a newby, wanting to build a 50 mph ebike on a budget, I see a dire threat to the freedom that we currently enjoy: the freedom is no registration, license plates, inspections, insurance or regulations, other than a wattage limit (which BTW is what the motor does, not what it says, so a 250 W that is boosted on a 48V battery is not a 250W motor anymore, and if it is involved in an injury crash, the police will throw the book at you). MuertoInc, the other answers on this page are being nice. Let me be blunt. You will kill or seriously injure yourself putting 50 mph power on a bicycle you buy off Amazon. You may also kill or seriously injure someone innocent who happens to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. And when you turn into road meat, there will be a clamour with people saying “this is awful, we must do something about it”, and the laws on ebikes will get tougher. MuertoInc, you want to build a motorcycle not an ebike. So build one. Get a motorcycle frame with a suspension made for 50 mph; with disk brakes made for 50 mph, proper headlights, turn signals and register and insure it as a motorcycle. Wear a motorcycle crash helmet, and if you are Smart, wear protective clothing. Forget looking at Amazon. Do google searches like this one http://www.instructables.com/ID/How-to-build-a-96-Volt-Electric-Motorcycle/ or look on Craigslist for an older but good running motorbike https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/mcy/5202954768.html. Or just buy a motor-scooter that will cost less than what you want to build. One thing you have not disclosed is your age. You admit to being new to ebikes, and you clearly do not have a lot of money because you are looking at the lowest you can find. It sounds like you live 30 miles away from work or school on a highway with a 50 mph speed limit. Are you not old enough to get a driver’s license? Anyway, you get my point. You know nothing about ebikes, have been reading the internet in hopes you can buy 50 mph speed for cheap, and you are focusing on whether two motors will hold up to 50 mph without cooking. Trust me, that’s not enough worrying. There is a reason street motorcycles and motorscooters are built the way they are: speed. Bicycles of the sort you are looking at are not made for those kinds of speeds. If I haven’t convinced you yet, see this video: BMX Bicycle Wreck At 50 MPH! https://www.YouTube.com/watch?v=di3fpS5cem8
Hey. Thanks for all the concern about my build ideas… you have a lot of points… after looking into this over and over again I’ve decided to go with the Montague paratrooper… it’s been proven to do the 50mph I want to do… mind you I am aware of the law and most likely will ride it at 30mph 90% of the time… building it with higher expectations would ensure me further distance. I’m glad I have critics. again I’m new to this and welcome any questions or opinions…. I’m 33 by the way… yes I can get a license and have one but it’s also suspended. Parking tickets and fees. always a fee… I paid off my van and still have to pay fees… wack… so I settled on the bike idea… I understand I can’t build a bike on a budget… I’m looking at about 2000. For a nice bike build… just so you know….
Also looking at the Crystalyte HS 3540 and the HT 2425. both motors being very exceptional and Crystalyte being a great company… still looking at building my own battery because a 48v isn’t enough… would prefer a 72-96v. each motor having it’s own 30 amp controller… 72×60 = 4320 ( good enough ) probably 40 mph continuous… I can live with that but 96×60= 5760 and I know that will do the 50 I want easy…. disk brakes I’m told work up to 70 MPH… not looking for that… just a foldable “motorcycle I can put in my girlfriends trunk… or work on inside the house outside the elements…. or take to work without waiting for the bus and 2 trains only to have to walk… a bike means no traffic, no looking for parking, no license, insurance, registration, tickets… car repairs… owned 6 cars in my time… all ends in headache and repair… ebikes are the future… if your scared of the risk, there’s always a bus… time is all we got…I’m using mine this way… ?
First I wanted to say thank you for the reply… again I’m new to this whole thing and still learning about the type of bike and motor I want to use… my main goal is getting the bike to do 50 mph for 30 miles without burning out my motor. This is the link for the motor. http://m.aliexpress.com/item-desc/2038660299.html Also this is the link for the bike I wanted to put it on. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Q7EEO0K/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_468_2?ie=UTF8refRID=0739D77FJC98DD5DC1FG I’ve seen other kits but I think this one was again under 600. I’ve also seen this on aliexpress and m.made-in-china.com all posting similar ads and for 5000w kits. Not sure if any are legit but if you have time to look at any of those links I’d appreciate it. Also the link you sent me was a 349 3000w hub motor… wouldn’t 500-600 be a average price for a 5000w. And do I need 5000w to do 50mph for 30miles?
That motor looks, at least from the outside, to be similar to the 3,000W motor made by MXUS and sold by Kinaye Motorsports. Since I haven’t used the one in your link, it’s hard for me to say definitely, but my gut is saying that motor can’t really take 5,000W continuously despite what they are saying. They also don’t include any graphs on power or speed performance, so without raw data, it’s hard to gauge exactly how fast it can go and what power level it can support. Now about that bike you linked to: I’m worried about the dropouts in two ways. 1) they just don’t seem very beefy, and you’d need to include a good strong torque arm to keep that motor from twisting right out of the bike, and 2) that ad says the dropout spacing is 149mm, but most normal bicycles have a rear dropout width of 135mm. Forcing another 5mm is doable, but not 14mm. You’d be risking breaking the bike by trying to squeeze the dropouts apart to fit the motor in there. Regarding that link I sent you, that one was for the motor bare (no rim, spokes, controller, etc). There’s a fee for having it laced into a wheel, though you get to choose the exact rim, spokes and everything. And all the other parts you’d need are available there on the other pages, like the controller, throttle and whatnot. When it’s all said and done though the price will be higher than that AliExpress link (though as I’ve seen Kinaye’s motor’s firsthand, I can vouch for them being top quality and able to get you to 50 mph no problem). Again, I hate to be the barer of bad news, but when you’re talking about 50 mph, you’re in the realm of serious ebikes. Those bikes usually cost a couple thousand dollars, and require a good strong donor bike to be safe.
Hey what’s up. I have a question. I want to build my own ebike but I’m fairly new to this. I’ve seen kits online for under 600 claiming to go 50 mph. The kit includes a low speed brushless motor 400w Motor power is 5000w rated, 9000w Max. Motor speed 900rpm/min Motor design is brushless gearless Wheel size, 16-29″ (they specify that they are double wall aluminium alloy wheels ) Motor drop out is 149 mm Motor loading 300kgs Controller is 100A sinewave programmable controller Comes with a 48v-96v 5000w brushless gearless hub motor for electric bike. 5kw electric bike hub motor and shimano hydraulic disk brakes front and back… I want to put this kit on a 26″ xspec 21 speed folding mountain bike that comes with High Tensile Aluminum FrameFront and Rear SuspensionShimano ST-EF51, Shimano RD-TZ50 Gear Index, 14-28T Thread FreewheelMechanical Disc Brake with High Grade 700c x 23c Tires, VP Head Parts, Neco BB, Folding Pedals, Alloy Stem Can this kit work with this bike? Will I do 50mph without burning out my motor? If not, what kind of folding bike would you recommend? Thanks for your time and any help or advice you have…
Not much, what’s up with you? For starters, a kit with those specs for 600 almost certainly doesn’t include the battery (which to power a kit like that, should cost nearly 600 itself). Next, and to be honest, that kit sounds like it’s promising more than it can deliver, especially for that price. The good quality 3000W motors that I am familiar with cost more than that when laced into a rim and with a controller, throttle, etc. That sounds like what is probably a lower quality kit and is being advertised as having a power level higher than it is really capable of. It’s hard for me to be sure without seeing it, but with those specs at that price – it just sounds too good to be true. For comparison, have a look at the motors here: http://kinaye-motorsports.myshopify.com/products/mxus-xf40-45h-45mm-3000w-motor-4t-9kv?variant=1212363124 Those are great quality, high power motors, that can easily hit 50 mph (depending on which motor you choose – some are slower and faster) and are sold by an American company with full support and warranties, etc. When you are operating at those high power levels and speeds, safety and quality of components becomes of paramount importance. A good quality and safe ebike capable of 50 mph shouldn’t cost less than 2000. I hope this doesn’t curb your enthusiasm, but I want to give you a realistic picture so you know what you’re getting into. As an alternative comparison, my 30 mph ebike cost me about 700 to build (which partly reflects my experience in knowing where to buy from for the best prices). That is nearing the cheapest you can do it for and still be safe. Most 30 mph ebikes cost closer to 1,000 to build, and many cost well more than that.
hello ! I am actually planning to build an e-bike myself. So I would like to crosscheck a few things and get some expert view to check if I am right. I am planning to use a 36V 250W motor with a 36V 15 amp controller. 1. do you suggest a 20 amp controller with some air cooling facility with the motor? i am really not looking at climbing steeps more than about 10(ten) degree. 2. i am expecting a decent speed of about 20-30 Kmph (max) on flat road. total ride weight will be around 250lb.
Most 250 watt motors are right at home with a 36V 15A controller. Bumping up to 20A should be fine for most motors as long as you aren’t planning on doing any long and grueling uphill challenges, which it doesn’t sound like you are. The best bet for cooling is to leave the controller somewhere exposed to passive air flow so that it cools naturally in the breeze.
Buy a Bafang BBS01 250W motor and battery kit from Paul, at em3ev. http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/productpath=45product_id=183. Paul is one of the most respected vendors on endless-sphere.com, the ebike forum. I have bought 33 motors and batteries from him. He (and his team) makes the batteries and they are far more reliable than other vendors who I used before I discovered Paul. I pay Paul a bit more than from a Chinese vendor, but when I had a problem (which turned out to be shipping damage that cut a hidden wire on a MAC 500), he paid postage and fixed it no charge. He is an Englishman in China so he understands what backing his product means. The motors are mid-mount. You remove the bottom bracket and install it. This means that it runs off your rear gears. With 250W you can climb in low gear with power, then on the flat shift to a higher gear, just like a car and go faster. On one bike I have a Nuvinci N360 hub and it is a fantastic combination. The BBS01 motor itself is very quiet. It is, in my opinion, far superior to hub motors. The controller is built into the housing, which means a lot less spaghetti wiring to cope with (and to have come loose). I have no business relationship with Paul and do not get compensated for recommending him. But having had bad experiences with other vendors, including BMS battery and eLife, I recommend Paul. Welcome to ebiking.
Hi Micah, After a lot of research and not many findings, you’re article has been the most useful for what I want to do. I have one of those conversion kits that states 250w, the motor looks identical to the shiny one on your article. It runs on a 36v 10amps battery and 36v max current 15w controller. My question is: Is it possible to modify the insides of the controller, something on the mother board for it to boost to the actual 15w? Or can I use another, still 36v, controller but with a higher max current to get more power/speed out of it? I want to do exactly what you have done, run mine at around 400/500w. Any suggestions for a controller are welcome. Thanks in advance and congrats for the article.
Hi Zenry, I’m glad you’ve enjoyed the article! You mentioned that your bike includes a 36v 15w controller, but I think you meant “15A” (amps) instead of “15w” (watts), which is a very common sized controller. 15 watts would be very small indeed! The answer to your question is: yes, technically you can make a fairly simple modification to increase the power of your controller. You can add solder to the shunt of your controller, which will trick the controller into allowing more current to flow through the controller and thus increase the power, though not the the flat land top speed. The problem is that it is easy to go overboard, add too much solder and thus cause your controller to burn itself out by trying to run at too high of a power level. For that reason, I don’t usually recommend this approach. To those that still want to try it, it is best to use a ‘little bit at a time’ approach by adding a small amount of solder to the shunt, then closing it up and testing the ebike until you get to a power level you want. That way you don’t miss it and go nuts with the power level. You can learn more about soldering shunts here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2t=31643
Thanks for your response. I had actually done that modification on the shunt in the meantime before you replied. However I didn’t notice any difference in the top speed, although I did it gradually like you suggested with small to large increments of solder. I even at last soldered a copper wire running from one end to the other on the shunt insertions and apart from a massive spark, no speed improvement happened. As far as I understood, you also have a 250W motor, but you said you run yours at 500W. Would you mind if I ask how you did it? And also, what’s your top speed after the modifications? Appreciate your help, Cheers!
Hi Zenry, You’ll notice that I said that the shunt mod will increase power, but not flat-land speed. That is because your motor has a top speed that is based on the voltage it is supplied, not the current it is supplied. The shunt mod is only going to increase the current flow to the motor. This means that on hill climbing where your top speed is limited by the amount of power you have, you’ll see an increase in speed, but on flat land you aren’t pulling full power (i.e. full amps) so providing more amps doesn’t do anything for speed. To increase speed of the motor, you’d have increase voltage, which means a higher voltage battery. Regarding my motor, it is unmodified. The 500 watts is determined by the controller and battery I’m using. Remember, watts = amps x volts. So in your scenario, you said you had a 15A controller and a 36V battery. If multiply 15A x 36V we get 540 watts. In reality, some of that power is lost as heat and other parasitic loss, so we end up with something around 500 watts. That brings us back to what I call “the myth” of ebike wattage ratings. Your bike comes with what is claimed to be a “250” watt motor. Yet at peak current draw (15A on your controller) you were actually pumping about 500 watts through that motor. That means it is actually operating like a 500 watt peak motor, even if the manufacturer calls it a “250 watt” motor.
Thanks for your response Micah. That was very clarifying as I’m not an expert in the topic. I decided to not upgrade my battery and controller as it would add weight to the bike and Cost me some more hundreds fo the battery. Your input was certainly the best I’ve had! All the best! Cheers, Zenry
Great article, just found your site. Question: I have an older stokemonkey from 2009. My battery is a 36V 15AH LiFEPO4. I noticed that sometimes I can get up to 800-900 watts. How is that possible? Shouldn’t I be limited to 540 Watts? Is this something to do with peak vs. continuous watts? Sure this is a dumb question, so thanks.
Stokemonkey’s are nice kits, that should be a fun ebike! It’s not a dumb question at all. The answer is in your controller, not your battery. It is the controller that actually decides how much power you’ll be pulling from your battery. I’m guessing that you have a controller with a peak current draw of around 25 amps (900 watts divided by 36 volts equals 25 amps). So regardless of whether your battery was 10AH or 50AH, your controller would still try to draw the same power from it. You mostly see peak current draw during acceleration and hill climbing. When you are cruising at constant speed, the power usually dies down to something more reasonable like 350-500 watts depending on factors like weight, size, terrain, etc. The 540 watts you ask about is actually watt hours, which is a measure of energy, not power. 36V multiplied by 15AH is 540 watt hours (as opposed to 36V multiplied by 15 amps, which equals 540 watts). So you’ve got 540 watt hours of energy in your battery, but the actual amount of watts (i.e. power) being pulled at anyone time is totally depending on the controller. Most LiFePO4 packs are capable of about 2C continuous current draw and 3C peak (2 times their capacity rating or 3 times for a few seconds). So your 15AH pack should be capable of putting out about 30A continuously or 45A in short bursts. Lots of numbers!
Hello there I have just bought a Sakura s200 electric bike. Hopefully, after my new batteries will come, it will work fine. But one thing makes me anxious: I just cannot find the controller for this bike, in case it would be faulty (it stood in garage for 4 yrs so its state is pretty unknown). Its brushless motor rated 200w and battery is 36v, but the closest controller I could find is 36v 250w. Now, my questions are:.could I use this controller instead of 36v 200w?or I could somehow add resistors to the controller so the output power would be lower than specified? If yes, how? Regards, Seb aka Maziu
Hi Maziu, I’m not familiar with that ebike, so I did a quick search and actually found someone who replaced the stock 36V 200 watt controller with a 48V controller to get more power: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2t=15271 Generally speaking, 250 watts is such a small increase over 200 watts that you should be fine with upgrading to that level. The fellow that upgraded to a 48V system surely increased more than that. You should know though that some of your connections might need to be redone for the new controller as the connectors are likely not identical. That’s just a matter of cutting off and resoldering a few new connectors, or even soldering the wires straight to the controller. Shouldn’t be too difficult.
Hello Micah, thank you very much for your reply, now I am calmer knowing that. I am familiar with soldering so changing connectors wouldn’t be a problem. But once again, thank you for your help, you are doing great work with this website and the information you provide, in a very clear way. By the way, I quite enjoyed your article about making your own LiIon batteries, now Im poor like a church mouse (well, maybe not that bad), but maybe in the future I will do something in that direction. Cheers and keep on going.
just bought a Chinese kit 250watt front geared hub motor (same as above pic)36v,can I use a 48v with the same speed controller?
Hey Ian, most of those motors can be run at 48V, though you should know that you will be adding more stress to the motor that way and consider taking it a bit easier on the throttle. I’m currently working on a bike which will have two of those motors (one in the front, one in the rear) running at 48V. Regarding whether or not you can use the same speed controller, that will vary from controller to controller as there are many different types of controllers available. One quick way to check is by opening the controller and looking at the specifications on the capacitors. If they say 50V, then you can’t run a 48V battery because most 48V batteries actually charge up to 54.6V, which could burn up those capacitors. If the caps say 60V though, you’ve got a good chance of the controller working with 48V packs. The only issue is that the low voltage cutoff (LVC) will no longer work, as it is checking for low voltage on a 36V battery, not 48V. As long as your battery has a BMS with its own LVC (pretty much every BMS does) then you should be fine.
Hi i had a question about a electric fat bike i am building. I have a 48v triangular battery which i have installed a 40A BMS board too. i am running a 1500w motor and i have had issues with the controller due to the large amounts of current running through it. the controller is rated at 18As and i know that this is probably the problem and i was wondering if i get a 45A controller to fix this problem is it going to be bad for the battery? Any advise would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Zac
If your BMS has a 40A rating then the absolute maximum controller you want to use is a 40A controller. You can do this, but it leaves you no safety room. I like to have at least a 50% safety factor, meaning I wouldn’t try to run a 40A controller. You wouldn’t actually be pulling 40A all the time, but during acceleration and on long hills you could stress your BMS to the point of blowing a mosfet.