E-Bike Batteries: Volts, Amps, & Watt Hours Explained. High voltage ebike

E-Bike Batteries: Volts, Amps, Watt Hours Explained

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What Are These Volts, Amps, and Watt-Hours? How Battery Specifications and Capacity Equate to Capability and Cost

Understanding e-bike batteries can be challenging, even for those of us in the know; the nitty-gritty details are figured out by electrical engineers with years of education and experience under their collective belts – and for good reason, it’s all chemistry and math over there!

You’ll encounter a host of terms when reading about e-bikes or looking at electric bike battery specifications: things like battery size, capacity, voltage, amp hours and watt hours. Some of these words are more-or-less interchangeable, others are related but distinct. All of them can be confusing, but they are also hugely important in understanding electric bikes and their capabilities – most notably when trying to interpret how far they can take you before needing to be recharged.

In this guide to e-bike batteries, the helpful writers at Electric Bike Report will help you to understand the meaning of common battery terms and their relation to the performance of the electric bikes they power.

E-Bike Batteries Explained

Batteries are one of the core elements of electric bikes. They are needed to supply power to the motor, which in turn provides assistance to the rider, and reduces the amount of human effort needed to move the bike.

E-bike batteries come in various sizes, and can be mounted to the frame in different ways. Some are fully internal, and are sealed inside the bike’s frame. As such, they are not removable, except by using special methods and tools available to professional technicians. Others are removable for easier charging and replacement, whether mounted completely externally (outside the frame), partially recessed (sunken into the frame to some degree), or completely recessed (sunken entirely and nearly invisible on the bike).

Regardless of their type, all e-bike batteries are actually battery packs, and are made up of groups of cells, similar to the standard AA or AAA batteries used in everyday applications. The number of cells and the method used to cluster them together determines how quickly they can provide power and how long they can continue to supply it.

e-bike, batteries, volts, amps, watt

In contrast to standard AA or AAA batteries, however, those used in e-bikes are most commonly rechargeable lithium-ion batteries similar to those used inside smartphones and in conjunction with cordless power tools. Lithium-ion batteries are efficient and can be recharged hundreds or even thousands of times if cared for properly. The Light Electric Vehicle Association, or LEVA, has a great article that they allowed us to re-publish regarding proper battery care and safety to ensure maximum life span.

Fully integrated batteries such as the one on the Velotric Nomad 1 can match the bike’s color and disappear into the frame.

Electric Bike Battery Terms and Definitions

Before we dive deeper into the details, let’s consider a couple of examples of e-bike battery specifications in relation to how they usually appear:

V = Volts and Ah = Amp-hours

V = Volts and Wh = Watt-hours

Both examples convey two basic measurements, albeit a little differently. In both examples, we see volts first; this measurement relates to the availability of the electrical energy the battery can deliver. Next, either amp-hours or watt-hours are shown; these represent a battery’s capacity, or the amount of power it can store.

Let’s define these words (and a few helpful additional terms) a bit more clearly:

Current: the flow of electricity, or transfer of electrons, through a circuit.

Circuit: a closed system of wires and electrical components through which current can travel.

Volts (V): the amount of electrical force or pressure the battery can produce; the speed of the battery’s output of current. This is also sometimes referred to as the electromotive force, and is more specifically the speed at which electrons move through the system.

Note that this is a nominal rating that is used for classification purposes. In reality, a battery’s voltage varies based on the amount of power being drawn from it at a given moment, as well as the battery’s present level of charge. As current is drawn from the battery, its voltage decreases. This can be seen in an e-bike battery voltage chart.

Voltage is determined by the number of battery cells arranged “in series”.

Amps or amperes (A): a measurement of the strength of the battery’s output, or current. specifically, the volume of electrons passing through the system. This is limited by the size of the wires making up the system. Larger wires allow more current, smaller wires allow less. Generally, systems with higher voltage should use smaller wires (that limit amperage) to prevent overheating.

Amps can also be thought of as the amount of energy being drawn from the battery by what it is powering, and can fluctuate from moment to moment. In the case of e-bike batteries and their motors, a greater number of amps are drawn as the motor works harder (i.e. going uphill or using only the throttle).

Amp-hours (Ah): a measurement of charge; the amount of energy that can be delivered through an electrical system over the course of an hour.

In the case of a 10 Ah battery, it can deliver 10 amps of power in one hour, or 1 amp of power for 10 hours, etc, depending on the needs of the component that is delivering power to.

Amp-hours are determined by the number of clusters of battery cells arranged “in parallel”.

Watts (W): a unit of power, determined by volts and amps; the amount of work that can be done by one amp of current delivered at 1 volt. The amount of work is determined by the rate at which the energy is used.

This measurement is generally applied only to an e-bike’s motor, but its battery must support the motor’s needs.

Watt-hours (Wh): another measurement of capacity. In this case, the amount of work that can be done, or the amount of power that is spent, over the course of an hour. This is a direct result of a battery’s voltage multiplied by its amp-hours.

As such, a 24V, 20 Ah battery and a 48V, 10 Ah battery might look different on paper, but they have about the same amount of energy. This makes watt-hours a more reliable indicator of capacity when comparing different batteries.

Controller: A device that limits the flow of electricity through a circuit, and prevents a battery from discharging its energy all at once. In terms of an electric bike, this is the “brain” that adjusts the pedal assist system, the amount of input the motor contributes, and the e-bike’s speed.

Increase the power of your electric bicycle

There are many quick, easy, and cheap ways to boost the speed and power of an ebike. Ebike power can be boosted by simply turning a ‘pot’ screw, disconnecting the power smoother plug or simply fitting a higher voltage battery. Alternatively, on high spec ebikes where battery and controller are inaccessible, you can fit performance chips.

It is far easier to boost the speed of an ebike than it is to improve the power of gas powered engine. We step through ebike tuning options one by one starting with the simplest and cheapest ways to increase the power of your electric bike.

Remove power smoothing

Poor travel distance is a major limiting factor to the sale of electric bicycles. Many ebike manufacturers include power smoothing circuits in their controllers. Power smoothing extends the range of the battery by managing the delivery of power to the electric motor when under load.

Ebike motors draw more power when the bicycle is pulling away from a standing start. The power smoothing circuit reduces the power that is supplied to the engine when pulling away from the sidewalk. This electric circuit limits the amount of throttle that can be applied on take off to reduce the current draw from the battery.

Although power smoothing extends distance that the ebike can travel, it severely reduces the power available to the rider. Personally, I find these circuits very frustrating as I prefer to have the electric motor to provide most power when I first start riding.

The good news is that this circuit can be quickly identified and easily disabled. All that is required is to disconnect a plug.First, unscrew the controller housing to access your controller unit. Remove the controller unit from the housing so that you can inspect all the wires. Look for a single wire from the controller that loops back into the unit. Most controllers have this wire looped back through a connector which can be easily unplugged. If you have a wire that loops back into the controller, this will be the power smoothing circuit.

To boost power, simply unplug the connectors. If extended travel is more important to you, make sure the plugs are connected.

Uncouple the power smoothing connector

When the wire is disconnected, replace the controller in its housing and take the bike for a ride. You will notice a marked improvement in acceleration. Travel distance will, of course, be reduced by a few miles.

power means more heat

I would like to point out that if you increase the power supplied by the controller, you increase the heat of the unit. Although adjusting the pot or removing power smoothing will not exceed electrical tolerance of the components, heat dissipation is a major factor in reliability.

Experience has shown that the controller is the Achilles heal of ebikes. You should, therefore, seek additional methods to cool the controller and motor.

Ensure good air flow around the systems and, if possible, attach additional heat sinks.

Increasing power to an electric motor is as simple as turning a screw

Power to the electric motor is supplied by the controller. Most ebike controllers have a variable potentiometer, or ‘pot’ that is used to adjust the power supplied by the controller.

External ‘power POT’

Some controllers have an easily accessible pot outside the controller casing. Check your controller for a wire extending on the outside of the controller unit that terminates with a screw head rather than a connector. This will be the pot.

Internal ‘power POT’

In most units, there the pot is not visible outside the controller but is available on the circuit board inside. If you have no external pot, you will have to open the controller casing to look for the component with a small adjuster screw. The pot can be identified easily as it will be the only electronic part with a screw head.

Simply turn up the power

The direction of turn the pot screw for increased power varies with each model of controller. You may have to turn the pot screw either clockwise or anti-clockwise to increase power. The power increase requires a little bit of trial and error. Turn the screw ¼ turn clockwise, reassemble the controller and take your ebike for a ride. Hopefully, more power will be available. If not, try turning the pot back ½ a turn and try again.

Can I put a bigger battery on my ebike?

Increasing battery voltage is the most effective way of increasing the power of your ebike. Increasing the battery voltage increases the power exponentially. You can increase the power of your ebike by adding a small additional “booster” battery or swap out your battery pack for a higher voltage battery. Before you upgrade your battery, there are a few things you should be aware of:

A higher voltage battery increases power

The first misconception is that a bigger battery will increase power. To be clear, battery power is rated in Ampere Hours (AH) for a specific Voltage. For 250 Watt ebikes, a 36 Volt 8AH battery is typically supplied on low cost bikes and a 36 Volt, 12AH battery is provided on more expensive models. Higher battery ratings are available but not common due to their weight and cost.

When you swap for a higher voltage battery, it can supply more power to the motor and provide significant increase in speed and acceleration. A more powerful battery (larger AH rating of the same voltage) will extend the range of ebike travel but will supply an insignificant amount of additional power to the motor.

Electric bike power calculator

For a given load, the resistance of an electric motor does not vary wildly. Simplifying the technicalities of an electric motor, we can view it as a large resistor. Ohms law, from high school physics, tells us that Power = Voltage 2 /Resistance. This means that when we double the voltage, we quadruple the power.

In reality, engine resistivity does increase slightly as more load is applied (more acceleration or speed = greater load) and a fully charged battery is around 25% higher than the rated voltage.

In real world applications, a 36 Volt 250 watt controller will supply around 350 Watts when a 48 volt battery is connected.

How to connect a booster battery

If you have a Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) battery pack, it is straight forward to add a power booster battery. 12 Volt SLA batteries are readily available and additional 12Volt units should be connected in series to increase the voltage.

Refer to the diagram as a visual guide of how to connect the batteries.

Li-ION battery replacement

Although the same concept applies to Li-ION batteries, adding power booster batteries to Li-ION is not recommended. The problem with Li-ION battery packs is that they are made by connecting a multitude of smaller power cells. Li-ION batteries can be damaged easily or alternatively, present a fire hazard. Li-ION batteries are, therefore, fitted with protective management systems that ensure that the batteries are not over charged and are protected from being drained of charge. Managing Li-ION battery charging reduces fire hazard while limiting battery drain extends battery life.

Adding a booster pack to Li-ION would complicate the system, compromise the management circuitry, and risk the integrity of the original battery pack. With Li-ION batteries you should replace the entire battery pack or, change the power management system if you are adding additional battery cells.

Verify that the controller can cope

There are a few items that you should check before you connect a higher voltage battery to your bicycle motor.

First, you should be aware that using a higher voltage battery will negate any warranty that you may have with the electric motor kit or ebike.

It is essential that you verify the power rating of the controller on your ebike. Most controllers are rated for one step up in voltage. For example, 36 Volt controllers are usually rated to run on 48 volts and 48 volt systems to run on 56 volt batteries, however, this is not always the case.

If your controller is not rated to accept a higher voltage battery, then you risk burning out the controller very quickly.

Checking the controller rating

Controller voltage and power ratings are usually marked in an obvious location. Typically, specs are listed on the side or the back of the casing. If manufacturers fail to provide any specs on the casing, look for the model number of the controller. A Google search on the model number should provide the required information.

Increasing ebike power

Most controllers automatically adjust to one step up in battery voltage. For example, a 36 Volt, 250 Watt ebike will automatically become a 350 Watt system when a 48 volt battery is attached.

Multi voltage controllers

If the controller is rated for multiple battery voltages (e.g. 36, 48, 56 and 72 Volts), these systems often have manual switch on the outside of the controller casing in order to manually set the battery voltage.

As controllers are the most fragile component of electric bikes, it is essential that the battery voltage remains within the rated limits of the system. Also, if you increase the power output the bicycle engine, it will increase the heat in the motor winding’s and the supply wires. The additional heat places more strain on the electric motor.

Can bicycle motors accept more power?

Electric motors themselves cope with the additional power well. We have never had any major issue with stepping up from 36 to 48 volt systems. Wherever possible, we improve air circulation and fit additional heat sinks to help the reliability of the ebike motor.

We have rarely encountered any issues with putting extra power through the electric motor itself. We have, however, seen many cases where a voltage upgrade has produced sufficient heat to melt the power wires supplying the engine.

To assist with heat dissipation, we always try to increase air flow around the controller, power wires and motor. If heat sinks can be added to electric components, this also helps to increase the reliability of the bicycle motor. In the occasions that we have discovered wires with melted insulation, we strip the controller back and solder higher rated wire to the power lines.

Check electrical connectors regularly. It is important to ensure that the connectors between the electric motor and the controller are kept clean, free from corrosion, and have good contact area. Similarly, check the power cables leading from the battery to the controller. Poor contacts increase resistance which reduces power supply. important than the small loss of power is the additional heat produced in the connectors.

Long trips

We would also suggest that you be mindful when taking long trips. If you are planning a long journey, back off the throttle a little or stop for short periods to allow the electrics to cool down.

Higher rated controller for bicycle motor kits

If the controller on your ebike conversion kit is not rated for higher voltage then it is possible to purchase a more powerful unit. Controllers can be purchased on Amazon for around 70 and can be simply fitted in 2 minutes using the same connectors.There is a huge selection of up-rated to choose from. Finding a replacement controller for a bicycle motor kit is relatively straight forward as most of the fundamental connectors are standardized. The throttle interface is usually the only non standard part. Depending on the throttle design, these connectors can be as simple as 3 wire plugs but we have seen throttle’s as complex at 6 wire plug plus a 2 wire side coupling. Be careful to select the correct throttle connector when you are purchasing a replacement controller.

Higher rated ebike controllers

It can be complicated to swap for a higher rated controller on an ebike. Purpose built ebikes have a number of additional wires to service proprietary features. Ebikes often have ignition switches, lights, speedometers, battery level indicators and LED displays.

These additional features have no standard couplings. Unless you want to discard all, or most, of the additional features on your electric bike, you are locked into the manufacturer. Check with your ebike manufacturer to ask if they can supply a higher rated controller that is compatible with your model of ebike.

Steve Baillie holds a degree in electronics and electrical engineering and has over 20 years working in the ebike industry

Regenerative braking on ebikes

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Be aware that a 48 volt battery will present over 52 volts when fully charged. To use a higher voltage battery, you will need to ensure the controller is rated for the increased voltage. (The controller is usually the weak point in electric bikes). Most controllers are, however, built with a 25% margin, so should be OK if you want to push the controller a little, you will have to increase cooling. (Note: there is always a risk if you push beyond the manufacturer’s rated specifications, you risk destroying the system). Assuming the controller is rated for higher voltage, you will likely encounter heat issues. Adding heat sinks to the controller and wiring, and improving ventilation, are crucial for heat dissipation. Alternatively, you could keep journeys short. If you install the higher voltage battery, use it in short spurts initially and check how hot the controller and wires are becoming. I have seen a lot of melted high-rated wire.

Hi Finch, Check the rating on your controller. You will most likely be good with up-rating to 52 Volt as long as the controller is rated for this. I would also advise caution on long runs as power wires to the motor will be pushing a lot more power through. Temperature will ramp up quickly in the wires. Try a short run and feel how hot the power wires to the motor are. If they are cool then that will give confidence to push a little further and harder. Be cautious until you have confidence that the wires to the motor are not going to melt.

I have read that the number of hall wires are usually 5. But then sometimes there is a 6th wire. A white wire. And it is a speed sensor to control the speed of the bike. Or Could you please help me with this?

Hi An, Unfortunately, there is no standardization for throttle wires. Different manufacturers use different colors. Most manufacturers do, however, use three colors for the throttle control blue, red and white. It isn’t a hard and fast rule, but these three colors normally operate the throttle control. Additional wires are usually for accessories such as speedometer, battery level, switch connections, illumination. Dependant on your bike, pedal sensors serve different functions. The pedal sensors on mid drive motors can be complex. On mid drive motors, the sensors allow differing power assist dependant on pedal force, pedal speed, incline of the terrain, etc. There isn’t a lot that can be done with these sensors as they are integrated into the motor electronics. Pedal sensors for hub motors are usually far more straightforward. The pedal sensor monitors the riders pedal speed and is simply to provide Pedelec compliance. The sensor allows power to be supplied to the hub motor. If you have a throttle control, you shold be able to disconnect the pedal sensor. The sensor does not limit the top speed of the e-bike (assuming you can pedal fast enough). Speed is a limit of the design of controller and hub motor. Most brushless ebike controllers pump out a square wave pulse. As the motor speeds up, the wave pulse becomes faster (and duration of the pulse has to be shorter). Once the ebike is travelling at 25 MPH, the controller-wheel speed is maxed out. You can’t go far over 25 MPH on most hub motors unless the motor controller pair are designed for higher speeds.

Hi Henri, I am not familiar with the Tenways ebike specifically but most ebike controllers have a potentiometer (some are external to the controller and others are hidden inside). Turning the potentiometer can usually add around 5 kmh. Another, higher risk, strategy is to bump up the battery voltage – If you have a 36V battery you could try using a 48V rated battery. Before you opt for a higher voltage battery, you need to check the controller rating will handle it. Most controllers can accept higher voltage batteries. Even if the controller is rated for a higher voltage, the problem will be heat dissipation. power will be pumping through the wiring so you may melt some cables. The bottom line is that raising battery voltage will increase speed but don’t go their unless you are prepared for the worst. I hope that someone with knowledge of modifying a Tenwyas ebike will add some advice here.

Hi John, Most electric trike motors will be 36 volt or above, so I am fairly sure that your 3x12AH batteries are wired in series. Three 12 Volt batteries wired in series make a 36 Volt battery pack. If you are looking for a Lithium Ion battery pack of a similar power, then 36V, 12ah will provide an equivalent replacement. I hope that I have understood your question correctly, if you would like more detail, there is a lot more information in my ebike battery article https://power-bicycle.com/ebike-battery/ I hope that this is helpful

I savor, result in I discovered exactly what I was taking a look for. You’ve ended my 4 day long hunt! God Bless you man. Have a nice day. Bye

hello, i am planning on buying a new ebike but due to 2 things i may need to upgrade the motor and battery. i am a heavy dude and i live in a place with lots of hills. how should i calculate the battery specs needed for a specific motor? lets say if i get 5kw motor, what should be the battery specs? thank you.

Hi Burak. If you go halfway down this article, you will find a link to a battery distance calculator. Best of luck

NUKEPROOF MEGAWATT RS ELECTRIC MOUNTAIN BIKE REVIEW

The brand Nukeproof needs no introduction for riders of the ’90s era, most of which likely lusted for its bonded carbon shell hubs. The brand also made other components and even frames before fading in popularity. Then in 2004, northern Irish downhill racer Michael Cowan acquired the trademarks, developing components and then bikes, eventually leading to the sponsorship of the Chain Reaction Cycles team. On this team is multi-time downhill World Cup, world Champion and EWS enduro series winner Sam Hill, who has been a force to be reckoned with on the EWS enduro circuit. Nukeproof bikes have only been available through a couple of shops in North America in recent years, but that is all about to change with a new distribution system and growing dealer network. Mountain Bike Action’s reintroduction to the brand comes in the form of its Megawatt eMTB, an electric-assist version of its EWS-winning Mega enduro bike.

DRIVE SYSTEM

Nukeproof chose Shimano’s EP8 drive unit to power the Megawatt. With 250 watts of power and 85 N/m of torque, it’s on par with most other full-powered systems currently on the market. Its electricity is stored in Shimano’s E8036, 630Wh battery. On the bars are Shimano’s EM800 color display and the clean EM800-L toggle switch. Shimano’s drive units are customizable through its E-Tube phone app where you can change power characteristics in each mode and update system firmware.

FRAME

The Megawatt’s frame is made entirely of custom triple-butted and hydroformed 6061-T6 aluminum and includes a few forged aluminum parts. It features internal cable routing that enters through the headset, Boost rear-axle spacing and Enduro pivot bearings. The bike also comes with a side-entry bottle cage that’s mounted below the shock on the downtube with an aluminum spacer to get the angle just right.

The geometry is enduro-focused with a 64-degree head angle, 475mm reach (large), 345mm bottom bracket height and 78-degree effective seat tube angle. In fact, these numbers are identical to the pedal-powered Mega 297, except for the Megawatt’s 7mm-longer chainstay length that comes in at 442mm across the size range. Geometry is adjustable, but not in the form of flip chips. Instead, Nukeproof relies on shock-sag adjustments from 30–35 percent for subtle attitude changes.

COMPONENTS

Nukeproof offers four different models of the Megawatt, starting at 6,099 for the Comp (with a Deore drivetrain and a smaller 502Wh battery) to the RS build we tested, topping out at 9,599.Highlights of this top-drawer spec include a larger 630Wh battery, SRAM’s X01 AXS wireless drivetrain, Code RSC brakes, Bikeyoke Revive dropper post with Triggy 1x remote, and a Nukeproof Horizon cockpit with Sam Hill Series grips. Most models see Maxxis Assegai tires, but this one gets Michelin’s DH22 treads instead—a wrecking crew favorite.

SUSPENSION

There is nothing extraordinary about the Megawatt’s 170mm-travel suspension design. It’s a tried-and-true, Horst-link style four-bar system. The rocker link is unique in the way it wraps around the seat tube, giving the overall bike an above-average clean look to it. This system is paired to a RockShox Super Deluxe Ultimate RCT coil shock with adjustable low-speed compression, rebound and a firming climb switch. Up front Nukeproof specs a 170mm-travel RockShox Zeb Ultimate with a Charger 2.1 RC2 damper.

CLIMBING

For such a big bike, the Megawatt climbs surprisingly well. So well, in fact, that test riders purposely sought technical climbs on this bike. Its Michelin tires are exceptionally grippy, and the suspension is supple and tractable. The only fly in the ointment is a low bottom bracket that had us pedal striking more than normal, so riders had to be very careful of their foot placement. Most of us on the wrecking crew will take a sweet-handling bike with a low BB over a tall, awkwardly handling one any day of the week, so we are okay with this.

A steep seat angle and seemingly high levels of anti-squat boosted the efficient feel of the bike, but the motor had to be on, because the tires have a lot of drag and resistance. Climbing without the assist is a real workout since it feels like you’re pedaling through wet cement. As a result, we tuned the assist output a touch lower in Eco to get a workout without killing ourselves, left Trail alone and maxed out Boost.

DESCENDING

Wrecking crew test riders all had visions of Sam Hill’s loose riding style while flying down the descents on the Megawatt, and the bike certainly let us hang it out. It has a “sit in” feel that puts your weight low on the bike, instilling confidence everywhere it’s pointed. This feel translates exceptionally well in the corners where the bike is simply on rails. Fast, slow, rough or smooth, there is no corner that this bike could not charge with speed. The Michelin tires that stick to seemingly everything like glue are not hurting this feel. The only place the tires show weakness is on rock-hard blue groove hardpack, and even then they’re very decent.

Another feather in the Megawatt’s descending cap is its superb suspension. The rear end is plush and active without feeling wallowy or vague. It can still pump rollers and push off jump faces without feeling like it’s stuck to the ground with a tractor beam. The coil shock’s small-bump compliance combined with the bike’s cornering prowess had us attacking off-camber corners that we often tip-toe through on other bikes. RockShox’s ZEB continues to impress us with amazing action and the ability to isolate the rider from chatter like few others. We experimented with different sag settings, but found 30–32.5-percent range offered the best overall feel and handling.

Oddly enough, we even got along reasonably well with the SRAM Code brakes on this bike. The exact same setup that we glazed and overheated on other bikes didn’t give us the same problems on this one. Speculations included the smaller 27.5-inch rear wheel being easier on the 200mm rotor, but it’s more than likely just being off the brakes and charging more.

WHAT DID WE LOVE?

Deft handling and above-average suspension performance are standouts on the Megawatt. Other highlights include the Bikeyoke dropper, which is quickly on its way to becoming a staff favorite. One of the biggest revelations has to be the incredible overall performance of the Michelin DH22 tires. They might roll slowly, but the traction more than makes up for it. This is also a very quiet bicycle overall. We could hear the EP8’s signature rattle slightly, but even that seemed muted in comparison to other bikes.

WHAT DID WE HATE?

We love water and the fact that you can put a bottle inside the front triangle of the Megawatt. However, we could just barely fit a 22-ounce size and wished for more room. While the cable routing looks very clean, especially with the wireless shifting setup, we are also not thrilled about yet another bike with routing through the headset. Even while testing in bone-dry conditions we found dirt and sand in the unsealed ports that feed down directly into the frame. It only complicates service, too.

e-bike, batteries, volts, amps, watt

BOTTOM LINE

Few brands evoked excitement for test riders like this Nukeproof. Between the “Sam Hill influence” and seeing him race his Nukeproofs on the ragged edge for years, and the X factor of not really seeing the brand on home soil very often, expectations were at an all-time high with this bike. It didn’t disappoint. The Megawatt is every bit of the awesome enduro weapon that we had hoped it would be and then some.

CATEGORY: Electric enduro

WHEEL SIZE: 27.5″/29″

SUSPENSION: 170mm (front), 170mm (rear

NUKEPROOF MEGAWATT RS

Price: 9,599

Weight: 54.8 pounds (without pedals)

Sizes: S, M, L (tested), XL

Head tube angle: 64°

Effective seat tube angle: 78°

Reach: 475mm (18.7”)

Bottom bracket height: 345mm (13.6”)

Chainstay length: 442mm (17.4”)

Unlocking Speed: How to Make Ebikes Faster With Some Simple Tricks

Introduction

e-bike, batteries, volts, amps, watt

The modern world seeks modern solutions to get rid of environmental pollution and, in turn, improve one’s health with cheap transportation in the long run. Here’s where the environmentally friendly ebikes evolved to embrace micro-mobility and combat climate change.

Electric bikes take an innovative and flexible approach to assist with the biking process, improve fitness and reduce expenses. Besides being easy to operate, they feature a sturdy design with many options for a cruiser, commuters, mountains, and roads.

But for a speed enthusiast, the solution to make electric bike faster can be challenging. Generally, ebikes have a default speed limit set to handle a specific limit of stress levels. But you’ll be amazed to know that you can adjust and derestrict the machine in some quick ways and make your ebike faster. This post discusses some practical solutions on how to make ebike faster and feel the wind blowing and swirling your hair as you enjoy your speedy ride. Let’s dive in to explore the top 6 methods.

The Top 6 Methods for Making the Ebikes Faster

Check the top 6 methods to resolve your query on making an ebike faster and moving smoothly without delay!

Change or upgrade the motor

Perhaps your bike’s motor is the first thing you should take charge of to make electric bike faster. For instance, using watt and torque to measure your motor’s power, you can upgrade it to a powerful unit with higher RPM and KV ratings for the recommended voltage to improve the top speed of your bike’s motor.

For example, if you have a 24-volt ebike, you can get more speed with a higher voltage system like a 48-volt motor and battery.

Instead, you can consider replacing or rewinding the motor depending on your ebike and the type of motor being used, an integrated hub motor or a mid-drive motor.

Use a high voltage and fully charged battery

Upgrading the battery to a higher voltage is always a wise option to boost the max speed of your electric bike. However, you must be careful while updating it as there’s always a risk of the motor burning out. Anyway, you can consult the manufacturer or an expert technician to know if the existing motor can put up with the increased battery voltage.

Ensure your battery is fully charged before taking it out for a ride, as the lower power will reduce the power output, decreasing your bike’s speed. In addition, your stay on the bike won’t be as long as intended if the power goes out.

Eliminate the speed limiter

Generally, manufacturers set an adjustable speed limiter to restrict the maximum speed of your ebikes for safety concerns. But you can adjust and set the speed as per the local government regulations and make electric bike faster.

If your bike has a wired speed limiter, you can turn it off by disconnecting the wire. On the contrary, your ebikes may have a speed sensor on the back wheel. When smaller and larger wheels are rotated at the same RPM, the smaller ones move slower than the latter.

So you can trick your bike’s computer into thinking that your bike is moving at a slower pace than the actual speed by indicating on the controller that you are riding on smaller tires. This way, the speed limiter won’t bother even when you reach high speeds.

The limiters of some manufacturers support lifting the speed limit through software upgrades, but please contact your product manufacturer in advance for support, which may affect your warranty of the electric vehicle.

Manage appropriate tire pressure

Tire pressure must have the optimal psi to limit the creation of drag, the sole purpose of which is to slow you down. Generally, the tire pressure can be recorded on the side of the tires, so before moving out on your ebikes, you must consider checking them for optimal performance.

Also, as a caution, we recommend not to inflate the tires beyond the required pressure level, as doing so will decrease the tires’ traction and ill-affect your stability when you ride on wet or off-road terrains.

Furthermore, you must use smoother and thinner tires to achieve high speed and make electric bike faster as narrower tires reduce the amount of drag and thrust it forward. Instead, the deep treads on the tire increase the grip on the surface, ensuring higher speeds and smoother rides.

Reduce air resistance

Controlling or reducing the air resistance works magically on higher-speed ebikes and makes them move faster. One of the finest ways to do so is by adding a windshield and getting the kind of speed that will run your ebike faster.

Adding a windshield adds up to 3 m/h to the bike’s top speed making your rides faster and smoother. Furthermore, the windscreen diverts the air to the side, preventing your body from sailing. Fortunately, you can find a specially designed windshield for electric bikes in the market that can be easily attached to the handlebar.

Change riding posture

If you are adamant about making any changes to your ebikes, then you can consider adjusting your riding posture to make electric bike faster.

Generally, motorcycles and scooters require a straight back that makes the rider face the air like a wall, generating more resistance, eventually affecting your ebikes speed and making them slower.

But while riding an electric bike for adults. you can try bending or crouching posture to achieve a more streamlined riding stance and move faster in the face of headwinds. It helps get less resistance, letting you increase your bike’s speed significantly.

Final thought Or Caution

Increasing your electric bike’s speed is a great option to enjoy a smooth and fast ride. As a fact, your ebikes’ speed generally depends on electric motors and battery wattage, among other things. But a breakneck pace can be dangerous. So while making the ebikes faster. ensure you are not hampering your safety. Wear protective gear and follow traffic rules not to break any.

Furthermore, the local governments have set guidelines concerning ebike speed. So you must make electric bike faster only if you comply with the relevant state or city speed limits and regulations.

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