Introduction: Electric Bike (Ebike) Range Calculator
One of the most common questions we get is how to calculate the geographic range of an electric bike. Basically,
- How far will my ebike go before it runs out of battery power?
- What is the range of my ebike?
- How far can I go per charge?
There are many factors that affect an electric bike’s range, including the type of bike you’re riding, as well as the battery capacity, terrain, and the level of pedaling effort you as the rider put in.
If you have a Bosch motor system, then you should probably use the Bosch ebike distance calculator. But for all other ebikes, our Range Calculator is the most sophisticated online today.
The truth is that most ebikes come with a Bafang motor system or its equivalent, since they are the largest ebike motor manufacturer in the world, and have an exceptional reputation. Our ebike range calculator has been designed based on the performance of the Bafang electric bike system.
For a more precise estimate of electric bike range, we have developed a detailed ebike range calculator which has 16 Separate Inputs and Over 100 Variants. Try it now, and start keeping track of your actual range to help us refine the system. If you want to learn all the details about how far electric bikes can go, and how to get the most range from your ebike battery, skip the calculator and continue reading the rest of this article.
Average speed for the duration of your ride, including regular pedaling and use of pedal assist and throttle.
Amount of pedal power you supply to reach the average speed. 0 = Throttle Only, 9 = Eco Mode.
- 0 Throttle Only
- 2 Turbo Mode
- 4 Sport Mode
- 6 Tour Mode
- 9 Eco Mode
Total weigh including bike, battery, rider, and any cargo you are carrying on the bike or in a trailer.
- 100 lbs
- 125 lbs
- 150 lbs
- 175 lbs
- 200 lbs
- 225 lbs
- 250 lbs
- 300 lbs
- 325 lbs
On average, how many times do you make one full rotation per minute when pedaling?
- 10 rpm
- 20 rpm
- 30 rpm
- 40 rpm
- 50 rpm
- 60 rpm
- 70 rpm
- 80 rpm
- 90 rpm
- 100 rpm
- 110 rpm
- 120 rpm
Where is the motor located on your electric bike?
NOMINAL MOTOR OUTPUT (Watts)
What is the nominal motor output rating of your ebike? For dual drives, enter the combined total wattage.
What is the voltage of your electric bike system?
BATTERY CAPACITY (Amp-Hours)
What is the capacity of your ebike battery, as measured in Amp-Hours (Ah)?
- 8.0 Ah
- 10.4 Ah
- 11.6 Ah
- 14.0 Ah
- 16.0 Ah
- 20.0 Ah
- 25.0 Ah
What style of electric bike are you riding?
Select the tire tread that most closely resembles that of the tires on your electric bike.
NUMBER OF MECHANICAL GEARS
Select the mechanical gear system on your ebike.
- SINGLE SPEED
- 3-SPEED
- 5-SPEED
- 7-SPEED
- 9-SPEED
- 10-SPEED
- 14-SPEED
- 15-SPEED
- 21-SPEED
- 27-SPEED
Select the mechanical gear system on your ebike.
Select the terrain that best describes the average terrain for your ride.
Select which best describes the suface conditions you will encounter most on your ride.
- SMOOTH ASPHALT
- UNIFORM GRAVEL
- ROUGH GRAVEL / ROCKY
- HEAVILY RUTTED
- SAND OR SNOW
Which best describes the weather conditions you will encounter during your ride?
How often stop completely, and start from a standing position? Level 1 = Rarely, Level 5 = Frequently
- NO STOPS
- A FEW STOPS
- SOME STOPS
- LOTS OF STOPS
- CITY TRAFFIC
Ebike Battery Myth Busting
First, a little electric bike battery myth busting is in order. Every ebike manufacturer should provide detailed specifications for the battery and every other component on the models they bring to market. Many will also provide estimated ranges, but rarely indicate how these range estimates were derived. That is why we built this calculator, so that you could get a fairly precise range based on your ebike specifications and riding conditions.
Estimated ranges provided by ebike brands aren’t based on rigorous testing
Next, let’s dismiss another obvious falsehood. All ebikes can be ridden like conventional bikes, simply by pedaling and using the standard gears. If the electric vehicle you’re looking at does not have operable pedals, it’s not an electric bike.
If you ride your ebike with the electronics turned off, there is no loss of battery charge. And if you ride your ebike without turning on electronics, there is no drag or resistance from the turned-off ebike motor.
There is no drag or resistance from the turned-off motor
That being said, ebikes do tend to be heavier than standard bikes, due to the added weight of the motor, battery and controller. But there are also lightweight ebikes that fold up and are highly portable.
The lithium-ion battery is the fuel tank for your ebike, not unlike the batteries that power your cell phone and laptop computer. In the olden days a few years ago, some legacy ebike brands would use sealed lead acid (SLA) batteries on their ebikes.
You can still find these types of batteries in cars and on mobility scooters. But with improvements in battery technology, the denser and more energy efficient lithium-ion battery has been adopted as the standard for all ebikes. These batteries will vary in their chemistry, as well as their operating voltage and capacity. Do not get a bike that does not have a lithium battery pack. Find out more about electric bike batteries at our Ebike Battery FAQ.
Like the lithium batteries powering your personal electronic devices, ebike batteries will not last forever. After about 1,000 charge cycles, you will notice that the battery is not holding a full charge. For the average rider, it takes about 2-4 years to charge and discharge an ebike battery 1,000 times. These timeframes could be greatly reduced if you expose your electric bike battery to extremes in heat or cold. So it’s best not to leave your battery in the trunk of a hot car, or in a garage that might reach freezing temperatures overnight.
When you finally need to get a new battery for your ebike, have no fear. Usually replacement or spare batteries are available from the original manufacturer, but even if they are not, there are reputable 3rd party battery companies that can provide a high-quality replacement. Our go-to favorite company for this is the Ebike Marketplace in Las Vegas.
Non-Electrical Factors that Affect Electric Bike Range
There are many variables that affect ebike range, including the bike design of bike, rider weight and riding style, terrain, weather, surface moisture, tire inflation.
Bike Design Maintenance. Electric bikes, like conventional bikes, come in many flavors. You have fat tire mountain ebikes, small folding ebikes, and laid back cruiser style ebikes. There are several key factors in bike design that affect range.
First, the weight of the bike is a major factor, but also the width of the tires. Fat tires, for example, have more surface area in contact with the ground, and more traction (friction) compared to a road bike with narrower tires. This adds resistance which can deplete energy reserves more quickly.
Second, it’s important to note that a poorly tuned or maintained ebike will have a shorter range than a properly maintained vehicle. Low tire inflation, poorly aligned gears and brakes, and high wind resistance due to a lack of aerodynamic design will all contribute to reducing the range of an ebike.
Payload. The weight of the passenger and any cargo will also have a dramatic effect on ebike range. All things being equal, a 225-pound rider with a fully-loaded trailer will place a much higher demand on the battery than a 125-pound teenager with a fanny pack. The distribution of the payload on the bike will also affect range, especially if a bike is unbalanced due to heavy loads placed on the rear rack.
Weather Terrain. Headwinds and wet roads each will reduce the potential range of an ebike. Likewise, how hilly your ride is, and if you go off-road on gravelly trails will impact how far you can travel on a single charge.
Electrical Factors that Affect Ebike Range
All electric bikes have 3 essential components that set them apart from conventional bikes. These are the motor, the controller and the battery. Each of these electrical components plays a critical role in the performance of an electrical bike, and if any of them are not working properly, it can adversely affect your ebike performance range.
If you struggle with the concept of electrons running through wires to power a motor, you’re not alone. Check out the Water Pipe Analogy graphic below.
We use watt-hours to measure the energy capacity of a battery pack, and this will help you figure out how long you can ride your ebike before fully discharging the battery. But before we get into watt-hours (symbolized Wh), let’s first review what a watt itself is.
A watt (W) is a unit of power, and power is the rate at which energy is produced or consumed. Think of watts as a measure of electrical flow. Does an electrical device need a big flow or a small flow to work? For example, a 100W light bulb uses energy at a higher rate than a 60W bulb; this means that the 100W light bulb needs a bigger “flow” to work. Likewise, the rate at which your solar energy system “flows” power into your home is measured in watts.
A watt-hour (Wh) is a unit of energy equivalent to one watt (1W) of power expended for one hour (1h) of time. A watt-hour is a way to measure the amount of work performed or generated. Household appliances and other electrical devices perform “work” and that requires energy in the form of electricity. Utilities typically charge you for electrical energy by the kilowatt-hour (kWh), which is equal to 1,000 watt-hours.
An ebike battery is measured by its voltage (V) and amp-hour (Ah) rating. To calculate the Wh of an ebike battery pack, we simply multiply its V and Ah to get the Wh.
- A battery rated at 36 V and 10.4 Ah will have a 417.6 Wh capacity (36 x 10.4 = 374.4), like on the Eunorau UHVO All-Terrain Ebike
- A battery rated at 48 V and 21 Ah will have a 1,008 Wh capacity (48 x 21 = 1,008), like on the Bakcou Mule.
To learn more about ebike batteries beyond simply their range potential, check out our Ebike Battery FAQ. And if you want another expert’s opinion about ebike range, check out Micah Toll at Electrek.
Introduction: Customized Lithium Battery Packs for E-Bike
About: Being a science student i love to indulge in projects related to engineering as i love to learn things practically. About DIY KING 00 »
We recently converted our bicycle into an e-bike using brushless outrunner motor from hoverboard, and that thing have crazy amount of power. But that crazy power drains the hobby grade lithium pollymer batteries like crazy fast. As we have been previously using two 5.2 Ah 11.1v battery packs that offered a total capacity of nearly 110 watts hour. With this capacity we can barely go beyond 4km of range with heavy foot over throttle.
Now we can get more fortunate as during this whole situation we came across an old lithium ion battery pack during our visit to scrap yard and we suspected the battery to be still alive.
Now this instructable is your guide to design and built a customized lithium ion battery pack for your electric bike totally out of scratch and scrap.
Hang in there as we are going to built 600 watts hour battery pack thats going to give us a 20-25 km range on our electric bike and all that within 20 USD. So time to get hands dirty.
Supplies
As always you dont require a particular set of tools for this project but having following can get the job done as discribed:
- Soldering iron
- Sucker gun
- Soldering wire
- Knife cutter
- Multimeter
- A DC watt meter
- A nichrome heating filament to act as a load
- A 3d printer
The material required for this project are:
- source of lithium ion cells, to name a few it could be an old electric bike or a laptop.
- Printing filament
- Epoxy
- XT-60 connectors
- A BMS (Battery Managment System)
If i miss anything here put it down in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев below.
Step 1: Sourcing Used Lithium Ion Cells
Without any doubts, lithium ion batteries offers great specifications and the benifits such as the weight/volume saving, crazy discharge rate are a few to name here. But all that come at a hefty price specially if you are aiming to get a battery pack for you electric vehicle as you are aiming for above 100 wattshour (Wh) obviously and there the price starts to add up alot.
So, one way is built your own lithium ion battery pack using cells from old battery packs from sources such as a damaged electric bike or a laptop(although they dont offer high discharge cells) while totally customizing the battery pack to fit perfectly within your vehicle.
For this project we found an old battery pack from a rejected lot of electric scooters from an old scrap yard. Now lithium battery packs from used sources can be a good deal with a considerable amount of capacity still left in them if you are going to consider the following things:
- In case of soft pouch lithium ion battery as this one, the physical condition matters alot. The battery must be in good shape with no major dents and definately no puntuchered. Besides, if the battery pack is swelled it means that the cells are puffed up due to over charge or over discharge. So be carefull not to pick up a pack thats balloned but you can go for the one that offers multiple cells and a few of which are swelled as you might end up getting the rest of them working perfectly fine.
- Generally lithium ion cells are in good working condition if they are holding a potential above 3v as the onces below that level are usually puffed up and are supposed to be inside the bin(Should be recycled properly) and definately not over the workbench.
- Check the overall voltage of the battery pack if the individual cell voltage can’t be measured. Divide the total voltage to the number of cells that battery has in series connection. If there is anything above 3v, you probably won’t regret getting that one.
- Gererally lithium ion batteries are equipped with a BMS(Battery Managment System) that maintains the individual cell voltages and offers a bunch of safety features. When not used for long it might drian the battery pack slowly and when the battery drops below a certain level, the BMS cuttoff the supply and thus you might end up getting 0v over the output, to troubleshoot connect the battery to the charge source for a couple of minutes and check if it hold a potential above the mimimum limit.
So with all those precautions we get ourself the battery pack, it was scratched but not dented. The battery pack was a 10 cells 36v 21Ah that sums upto 756 wh stated battery capacity. We weren’t able to measure the individual cell voltages but the good thing is that the overall unit is standing at 38v which means that idelay each cell has to be at 3.8v thats a real good sign for a healthy battery. The battery pack seems to be puffed from one side but will see that later on.
Step 2: Tearing the Battery Pack
To start with we have to get our hands on healthy cells and for that we started tearing the battery pack. Now as I mentioned earlier these are soft pouch pack unlike 18650 cells that offers hard casing, so becarefull with the knife cutter as it can easily punther the cells and a fully charge cell can easily explode with that.
Once we teared off the battery cover we found the packs to be arranged in two rows. Each row has five packs with each pack having four individual lithium ion cells connected in parallel while the pouches are connected in series. The front is equipped with a BMS.
Step 3: Monetring the Individual Cell Voltages
The next thing is to measure the individual cell voltages. To our surprise nine of them were standing at 4.20v, thats kind of an ideal condition as it the maximum voltage limit for a lithium ion cell. But as we remember the whole pack was holding a potential at around 38v which means that one of the corner cells is at 0v and thats the case. As discussed in the previous step the whole pack puffed up due to over discharge and i guess thats the reason why they throwed the battery pack.
Everything is good but there is something wrong, probably the BMS as it would have drained that pack but with one cell standing at 0v the BMS should have cutoff the battery pack but thats not the case as we measured 38v at the output, but will figure out that later.
Step 4: Capacity Testing
The individual cells voltages can be a sign for a good lithium ion battery but its just a good initial guess for healthy battery pack and there is no gurantee that its holding a good capacity.
So to test the actual battery capacity we have removed the puffed cell, jump connected the rest of them so that we have total nine packs connected in series and with a nichrome heating filament connected across a DC watts meter we are ready to test the battery capacity.
The heating filament offered nearly 500 watts of dummy electrical load. It took just over na hour to drain the battery pack during which we continiously monitored the battery pack voltages and the seems to remain balanced throughout the drain. We did a manual cutoff at 27v as 3v is a safe limit for each cell to cutoff for lithium ion batteries.
The battery pack delivered arround 540 Wh (watt hour) thats arround 80% of the original stated battery capacity. So we are good to design the battery elcosure.
Step 5: Designing the Battery Enclosure and Holder
One of the main challange for converting the bicycle is to pack it with punch of power to make it fun to ride. The Brushless outrunner motor that fulfilled our power needs now require a good deal of battery capacity and we have very small space to get a sufficient amount of battery capacity.
Now customizing the whole battery pack helped us to design two battery packs. We later replaced the puffed pack with a working one from another battery, so we had 40 individual lithium ion cells to work with. Thus we decided to built two seperate battery packs, each one of which is a 10 cell pack with each pack having two cells in parallel and thus forming a 36v 300 Wh battery pack.
The design of the enclosure was simple, ten compartments to separate the packs with a bit of head room for BMS and holders for a pair of XT-60 male and female connectors for discharging and charging the battery pack.
Both the battery packs are designed to fit below the bicycle seat and for that we have designed the battery packs holder. The holder is designed to slide over the seat holder and tightened with three allen key screws with nuts on the other side. Once the battery packs are slide in place the top holder helps to keep the battery packs in place.
Step 6: Dissassembling the Battery Pack
Later we dissassembled the battery pack and we started by desottering the connection over the PCBs, yup Printed Circuit Boards and here I would love to take a moment and thank Stariver Group for making this project possible. With over 20 years of experience for manufacturing and assembly of customized printed circuit boards they are providing some of the finest services out there at an out standing price right at your door step. So take a moment and head up to their website to order your customized PCB for your upcoming project.
Now once we removed the PCBs, we than carefully took cells apart using some alchol dipped cloth and a ruller. Be carefull during this step as you can easily puntcure the cells if you are not carefull.
Step 7: Assembling the Cells
The individual cell voltage is measured and then we mentioned the polarity of each pack before throwing them inside the enclosure. In total there are ten packs each one of which has two cells connected in parallel while all the ten packs are connected in series. For that we have to place the packs alternatingly inside the enclosure.
Once all the packs are in place we sottered the tabs carefully as there are a whole lot of exposed terminals ready to bite anything that shorts them, so again be carefull.
Next we placed the male and female XT-60 connectors within their holders and sottered the positive terminal directly while the negative terminal will be connected through the BMS.
Step 8: The Battery Managment System
Have you guys noticed how many times I have discussed the voltage of individual cells, yup alot and its because of the face that lithium ion cells are very sensitive with the voltage. The maximum charge potential is 4.2v, the minimum cutoff voltage limit is 3v while the nominal voltage is 3.6v.
Now with this much cells arround we need an intermediate unit that manages the individual cell voltages that occur due to various charge and discharge cycles with sligh variation within the resistance of each cell. For that we are going to use a BMS (Battery Managment System) and for our battery pack we needed a 10 cells BMS as they are ratted for the number of lithium ion cells that are connected in series and also the maximum discharge current that you are planing to drain. As the original battery pack was a 10 cell too so we have used the same BMS.
First we connected the individual cells to the BMS and then we have connected the charge negative, discharge negative and battery negative terminals. Next we mounted the BMS to the top cover using a couple of screws.
Step 9: Retesting the Battery Pack
Before we glue the enclosure we ran a complete charge cycle followed by a discharge using the same nichrome heater and wattmeter setup as previously. During the whole test we took a close eye over the battery voltage and individual cell voltages. The battery provided the same capacity except that the BMS failed to cutoff the battery power as it went below the minimum cutoff voltage. Luckily we were monitoring the unit so we did a manual cutoff and later replaced the BMS to the one from the hoverboard battery pack and that worked absolutely fine.
Step 10: Gluing the Enclosure and Finishing Touches
Once the BMS was replaced we glued the top cover using epoxy to make the enclosure water proof. Next we printed and glued the face plate mentioning the specifications of the battery pack.
Step 11: End Results
The outcome of the project is just way too good. Those little buddy boxes have 600 watt hour of power to offer and thats just insane as this whole thing is built out of an old battery from scrap. We have tested the battery packs with our electric bike thats still under finishing work but the results were promising. We are upgrading the bike to achieve 60 to 70km/h of top speed and with that conversion the bicycle pulls arround 30 Wh with the maxmimum pull over the throttle which means that now with these two battery packs we can easily get upto 20 to 20km of range on a single charge depending upon the throttle we pull off during the ride. Isnt thats too good for an electric bicycle conversion.
The whole project was a good learing curve and cost us 20 USD including eveyrything and in the end we have an awesome pair of battery packs the fits right under the bums 😛
Our electric bike conversion with this battery pack, a crazy motor hack and with a 3000 watts BLDC Motor controller will be coming this weekend on our YouTube channel so do vist, subscribe and break that bell icon to get notified the moment we publish the built video.
Will be there with another awesome project video.
Why There Are So Many E-Bike Battery Fires and What You Can Do to Protect Yourself
E-bikes are great, but make sure to take precautions while charging.
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As e-Bikes, e-scooters, and other electric personal mobility devices become more popular, so do the number of large Li-ion or Li-Po battery packs in our homes.
And while these electric personal mobility devices have provided clean and green transportation for millions, they’re also a new and worryingly growing source of house fires—exploding batteries.
So, why are these batteries catching fire, and how do you protect yourself and your home?
Why E-Bike Batteries Are Catching Fire
Although most e-Bike models have gone through safety testing and have certified parts, we’re still getting a lot of reports of house fires caused by these vehicles. According to a 2022 report by The Guardian, almost 200 e-bike fires were reported in New York City alone.
But why does this happen even with all the certifications and testing?
Damaged Batteries
Batteries are the tech that powers all modern devices, and the lithium inside these batteries delivers the most power. For example, because of Li-ion and LiPo batteries, we can get small smartwatches that last several days, and our smartphones can now last a day or two, despite being more powerful than ever.
However, lithium is highly reactive, and any damage can cause it to short-circuit and become too hot, thus leading to a thermal runaway. And when that happens, it’ll cause the battery to explode and catch fire. Furthermore, lithium reacts to water, so if you douse a burning lithium battery, it will burn with greater gusto instead of extinguishing it.
Fake Parts
Even if a battery does not have damage, it can still start a fire if it’s fake. That’s because counterfeit batteries usually do not go through stringent controls, and they might even be incompatible with your e-bike‘s charger.
That’s why it’s crucial to avoid buying fake batteries—that way, you’re ensured that you only get the best quality batteries that have run the gamut of testing and certification.
Poorly-Made Batteries
Although most reputable companies ensure that their devices come with good batteries, bad batteries sometimes make their way to consumers. One popular example is the Samsung Galaxy Note7 and its exploding battery.
Because of this incident, many manufacturers and certifying bodies have developed ways to avoid repeating the exploding battery issue. Nevertheless, some smaller manufacturers can skirt these safety measures, especially if you bought the device from an area with less stringent standards.
How Do You Protect Yourself From E-Bike Battery Fires
Now that you know the most common causes of e-bike battery fires, how do you protect yourself and your home?
Take Care and Maintain Your Battery
Consider the battery as the most powerful part of your e-bike. Although e-bike batteries are designed to take the abuse of everyday use, you should still ensure that it’s not damaged due to accidents or wear and tear.
Every time you charge your e-bike, inspect its battery for any signs of physical damage—consider this one of the ways to keep your e-bike running like new. You should also check its temperature while charging and using the e-bike, so you can feel if it’s getting dangerously hot.
If it is, immediately get off your bike, and bring it somewhere safe where there’s nothing flammable nearby. If it doesn’t cool off or begins to smoke, call the fire department, and they should tell you what you can do.
Ensure That Your E-Bike or Its Battery Is Certified
Whether you’re buying an e-Bike or a replacement battery, ensure you’re getting it from a reputable brand with the corresponding certifications. Ensure that the certificates come from established bodies like UL and TUVRheinland—companies with exacting standards that battery manufacturers must hit or exceed before getting certified.
Why the Li-battery is best choice for E-bike?
Nowadays, e-mobility products are more and more popular in the world. Deloitte Study ‘Discover the Future’ predicts:
- Tens of billions of additional bicycle trips per year will take place globally in 2022 over 2019 levels;
- E-bike sales in 2023 at 40 million units generating €19 billion.
With the development of this popularity, safety and lightweight gradually become concern issues for consumers. After many tests, many manufacturers of e-bikes choose lithium batteries as the optimal solution because of its characteristic: high density, no memory effect, good cycle life, and low discharge.
Tritek closely follows the trend of the times and always focuses on safe LEV (light electric vehicle) batteries. We are very honored to explore what kind of magic lithium batteries have from the following aspects.
How many chemical types of batteries apply to e-mobility products?
There are several types of batteries. The first one, of course, must be a lead acid battery because it has over 150 years of history.
It is the first type of rechargeable battery ever created. Its ability to supply high surge currents means that the cells have a relatively large power-to-weight ratio. These features, along with their low cost, make them attractive for use in motor vehicles to provide the high current required by starter motors.
The second type is a lithium battery or lithium-ion battery. It’s also a type of rechargeable battery. Lithium-ion batteries are commonly used for portable electronics and electric vehicles, for example, electric bicycles, electric motorcycles, and electric scooters.
Li-ion batteries use an intercalated lithium compound as the material at the positive electrode and typically graphite at the negative electrode. Usually, there are three main types of Li-ion batteries: NCA (Triple elements Ni, Co, Al), NCM (Triple elements Ni, Co, Mn), and LiFePO4 (Lithium iron phosphate).
How do lead-acid and lithium-ion batteries compare?
Here are the top 3 differences between the two battery chemistries:
The lead acid battery is popular cost-effective battery chemistry, available in large quantities with little worries relating to the security of the supply and in a variety of off-the-shelf pack sizes.
Just as its name implies, lead-acid battery is made with lead and the raw material is easy to access consequently the material may not be in shortage. However, when you start looking at the price in terms of the power or range, lithium-ion technology can often be a more favorable option.
Comparing the two chemistries side-by-side, lithium-ion achieves an energy density of 90-220 Wh/KG versus 50-90Wh/KG for lead acid batteries. Most lithium-ion batteries are 95 percent efficient or more, meaning that 95 percent or more of the energy stored in a lithium-ion battery can be used.
Conversely, lead acid batteries see efficiencies closer to 80 to 85 percent. Higher efficiency batteries charge faster, and similarly to the depth of discharge, improved efficiency means a higher effective battery capacity.
Compared with lead-acid batteries, lithium-ion batteries have twice the voltage and three times the capacity. They’re roughly a quarter the weight and consume half the energy of other batteries. Battery lifespan plays a crucial role in their overall efficiency, as they degrade over time.
The numbers vary from study to study, but lithium-ion batteries generally last for several times the number of cycles as lead acid batteries, leading to a longer effective lifespan for lithium-ion products.
How to choose the correct lithium battery for your electric mobility?
Tritek, as a professional lithium-ion batteries manufacturer, can provide different battery packs to install in various drive systems, such as electric bikes, electric scooters, electric mopeds, golf carts, wheelchairs, etc. We usually sort battery packs based on their voltages.
Initially, we would like to introduce our “Starter” — 36V lithium battery packs for electric bikes and electric scooters. It’s a battery pack shaped into a slim frame mounted on an electric road bike or mountain bike.
If you need a battery hidden in the electric bike, and you are looking for high output, lightweight, in a small volume, an in-tube battery pack is perfect for you.
The second is our “Senior” — 48V lithium battery packs for an electric mountain bike. The electric mountain bike battery pack is integrated with Smart BMS. It’s a universal battery model for electric MTB. CAN or UART communication is available. Its Smart BMS is compatible with various drive systems, such as Bafang, Brose, etc.
The third is Tritek’s “Superior” — 60V and 72V lithium battery packs for electric motorcycles, and electric mopeds. With a powerful e-motorcycle battery, you’re able to cover more ground on a single charge. With a multi-battery connection, an e-motorcycle battery can be operated in parallel or serial connections for optimized performance.
What’s more, 72V lithium battery packs are a great fit for electric motorcycles because they allow the bike to run more smoothly with increased torque and hill-climbing ability. The packs are made with Smart BMS, which monitors the cells in parallel, ensuring the safe use of each cell.
In a word, you will get an awesome lithium battery pack of types of electric mobility if you pick Tritek. There is a common performance for our battery pack: can be charged at 10-45℃ temperature and discharged at.20-60℃, plus a minimum of 500 cycles.
If you need to store a bike or motorcycle, just maintain the state of charge at 50-60%, or keep the battery pack into deep sleep mode due to its low self-discharge feature, then battery packs could be stored last for 3 months without any damage.
The last one is Tritek’s “Portable power” – lithium batteries for a Smart device. A lithium battery provides the power source for connected devices such as smartwatches, pedometers, Smart purifier masks, etc., with a long-lasting rechargeable Li-ion battery. These batteries are recharged by wired or wireless chargers.
How long is the battery life of a lithium e-bike battery?
Lithium batteries are the most common option for many electric bicycles. They have longer lifespans, which means that they can be charged more times without being replaced. The amount of battery capacity in a bike determines how long the bike will last on a single charge.
Manually check the battery status to make sure it’s fully charged before each ride: if you notice that the charge is running out more quickly, consider buying a spare battery and checking its voltage.
In Tritek, the spare battery is also named range extender. It is one of Tritek’s best-selling models. This unit isn’t for use with an electric bike alone, but when it’s used in conjunction with Tritek’s main battery and original charger, it creates an incredible backup power-up for your electric bike.
How many countries prefer to charge e-bikes with lithium batteries?
As a positive response to Green and environmental protection, people all over the world are using e-bicycles, even from a very young age. Whether it is college kids, businessmen, or housewives there is hardly anyone who does not have a ride on an e-bike. Especially in the United Kingdom, Germany, Spain, Italy, France, Thailand, China, and so on.
Many people ask us why so many e-bike riders choose lithium batteries. The answer is quite simple: lithium batteries are lightweight, safe, and powerful! They can help to make your e-bike run faster and last longer.
You can easily find out which is the best bike for you through a comparison of their technical specs. Good bikes have high-quality frames and excellent components to offer a comfortable riding experience.
For this reason, foregoing, lithium batteries are a technological innovation compared to others. It could be the best charging choice for electric bikes at present!
Tritek is a professional OEM of LEV batteries with more than 12 years of experience. We design and produce the complete intelligent lithium battery pack for electric mobility, including the Smart BMS and battery, with world-leading facilities, and automatic and semi-automatic assembly lines. Our customer-oriented approach and suite of proprietary lithium batteries let riders build their unique, individualized and outstanding ride experience, and your electric bike company will stand out in the marketplace for it.