Currie Electro Drive Electric Bicycle Kit Parts
Battery Set for Currie Electro Drive Electric Bicycle Conversion Kit Set of two 12V 10Ah batteries for the Currie Electro Drive electric bicycle kit. Includes 12 month battery replacement warranty.
Advanced Technology LiFePO4 Batteries and Chargers
24 Volt 6.4Ah K2 LiFePO4 Battery Pack with Battery Charger for Currie Electro Drive Electric Bicycle Kit Lithium iron phosphate/LiFePO4 battery pack with battery charger for Currie Electro Drive electric bicycle add-on kits. Weight: 5 pounds.
24 Volt 6.4Ah K2 LiFePO4 Battery Pack for Currie Electro Drive Electric Bicycle Kit Lithium iron phosphate/LiFePO4 battery pack for Currie Electro Drive electric bicycle add-on kits. Requires LiFePO4 battery charger item # CTE-24480 sold below.
24 Volt 9.6Ah K2 LiFePO4 Battery Pack for Currie Electro Drive Electric Bicycle Kit Lithium iron phosphate/LiFePO4 battery pack for Currie Electro Drive electric bicycle add-on kits. Requires LiFePO4 battery charger item # CTE-24480 sold below.
Battery Charger for K2 LiFePO4 24 Volt 6.4Ah and 9.6Ah Battery Packs Battery charger for the K2 LiFePO4 24 Volt 6.4Ah and 9.6Ah battery packs sold above.
Electric Bicycle Accessories
How to Choose An E-Bike Conversion Kit: Everything You Need to Know
Want to convert your regular bike to an e-bike? Here’s what you need to know.
Readers like you help support MUO. When you make a purchase using links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read
You love riding your bike but are frustrated by other riders who fly passed you as you struggle up the slightest incline. Or maybe you’re just tired of showing up to work in a sweaty shirt.
Or maybe you’re a DIY’er and already have a perfectly functioning bike and want to upgrade to something with a little (or a lot) more pep. In either case, you want to join the e-bike revolution.
You’re in luck. E-bike conversion kits make it easy to keep your current bike while reaping the rewards of electric motors with minimal cost.
Motor Types and Strength
There are several ways to build a DIY e-bike, and they all depend on the kind of motor you choose in your conversion kit: mid-drive, direct-drive hub, or friction-drive. A mid-drive motor is integrated into the lower-middle section of the bike frame, generally in between the pedals. A direct-drive hub motor is integrated into the front or rear wheel hub. A friction motor is mounted with a roller that contacts your rear wheel.
Each motor type has pros and cons. Hub motors are less expensive and easier to install, but they offer less torque, and the added weight on the front or rear wheel can affect the bike’s balance. Mid-drive motors are more expensive and difficult to install but offer more torque and put the added weight in the center of the bike, making it more balanced. Friction motors are the easiest to install but offer minimal performance gains.
There are various e-bike classes, and e-bike conversion kits are no different. When comparing the power of different kits, you’ll be comparing the watts of each motor. Wattage (or the number of watts) refers to how much power a motor requires to run. Motors with more watts will deliver more torque. Most e-bike conversion kits fall between 250 and 1,000 watts, but some jurisdictions restrict e-bike motors, so check your local laws before buying.
How much power does your e-bike need? That depends. E-bike conversion kits with hub motors are usually better suited for flat roads and long distances. In contrast, mid-drive conversion kits are usually better suited for people carrying more weight or living in hilly areas. The amount of power your motor requires will also affect the range.
Ease of Installation
At first glance, e-bike conversion kits might seem daunting to install yourself, but these small, powerful kits can be very easy to connect.
Friction-drive kits are the easiest to install. For example, the Rubbee conversion kit attaches to your bike’s seat tube using a few bolts and rests on your bike’s rear wheel.
Direct-drive hub motor kits are the second easiest to install. All you need to do is replace your front or rear wheel with a new one that includes an integrated motor. It might take some ingenuity to find a place to mount your battery and electronics, especially in a way that keeps your bike looking clean, but anyone with a few basic tools and some zip ties can install this kind of kit.
Mid-drive motor kits are the most difficult to install but are still easy for people who are handy and can work on their bikes. The installation will generally require you to remove and reinstall your bike’s cranks, chain, and chainring and attach the motor and sensors.
When comparing the battery of different conversion kits, you’ll be comparing something called watt-hours (referred to as Wh). Watt-hours refers to the number of hours a battery can produce one watt of electricity. E-bike batteries can be anywhere between 500 and 700Wh.
E-bike kits will vary in the distance they can let you travel. The size and capacity of the onboard battery, combined with the power of the motor, determine the distance you can ride. While bigger batteries are usually better, several factors can influence the longevity of your battery between charges, including the weight you’re carrying and the speed you’re traveling. Under typical demands, one mile will cost about 20 watt-hours.
The range of your new e-bike will be a function of motor power and battery capacity. Generally, the more powerful the motor and the smaller the battery, the less range you’ll get out of your bike. However, you can affect the range of your bike in several ways. For example, by reducing the level of pedal assist from the motor and using more muscle power, you can dramatically increase the range of your e-bike.
The best electric bike conversion kits 2023 and how to fit them
The best electric bike conversion kits can give you an extra boost of power without the expense of purchasing a new electric bike. We’ve fitted some of the best e-bike conversion kits ourselves, so will walk you through the process, how easy it is and how the different systems perform.
E-bikes are soaring in popularity – and for good reason. The best electric bikes replace a car for running errands around town and greatly increase the distances it’s possible to ride on one of the best commuter bikes. An e-bike can also be a great tool for boosting your fitness, whether that’s enabling you to ride with a greater range of people or offering the motivation of a greater range of roads to explore.
But is an e-bike worth it,? As the best ebike conversion kits promise to add power to an ‘analogue’ bike for a lot less than a full ebike, it’s an easy, cheaper way to get an electric boost.
In this guide we’ll take you through the surprisingly broad range of benefits an e-bike conversion kit has to offer and – most importantly – how to perform an e-bike conversion, based on our hands-on experience. For a walk-through on how to do it, you can check out the video above or read on for a step-by-step guide – it genuinely is so much simpler than you would think.
When buying an ebike conversion kit there are a number of factors you’ll need to consider. Most importantly you’ll need a kit that will fit your bike. To help with this it pays to take a few frame measurements, notably the width of your forks and the width of the rear stays, as well as noting the wheel size and the type of brakes. You can then match these details to the kit specifications.
Naturally you’ll also need to consider the cost and how much you chose to spend on an ebike conversion kit will be dictated by not only your budget but also your needs. If you’re unsure of just how much you’ll use the converted bike then it’s prudent to opt for a cheaper kit. you can always upgrade down the road.
You’ll also want to consider where the motor will be located, and match this to your bike and your mechanical prowess. Front hub motors are typically the easiest to fit, while mid-drive motors require more effort. A rear hub motor lies somewhere in between the two, and like a front hub option is applicable to a wide range of bikes.
Other considerations include the type of battery and the wattage rating. 36 or 48 volt battery is standard, with wattage usually running from 300 to 600 watts.
The Swytch kit is super-simple: just swap out your front wheel, wire up the controller and battery and you’re off. The battery is also very compact, allowing you to remove it from the bike easily to carry with you.
The TongSheng kit positions the motor at the centre of the bike, so it will fit to a wide range of designs. It’s lightweight for its high torque and power output, although you’ll need to buy the battery separately.
The Voilamart kit is an inexpensive rear wheel conversion option, although you’ll have to source a battery separately. It’s slightly fiddly to fit as well and requires additional waterproofing if you plan to ride in wet weather.
The best electric bike conversion kits
You can trust Cycling Weekly.
Our team of experts put in hard miles testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.
Wheel sizes: Each wheel is custom built – specify your required size at checkout (Bromptons also catered for)
Reasons to avoid
The newly updated Swytch system is one of the simplest conversion kits to fit out there. The latest version, launched in August 2022, has a smaller, neater battery pack that improves the bike’s dynamics and lowers its weight. There’s the choice of the Air battery (700g, range 15km) or the Max battery (1,100g, range 30km). Both use the same mount, which places the battery to the front of the handlebar.
The motor sits in the front hub and we found it to be pretty discreet. Incidentally, the new batteries will work with the original motor and pedal sensor, so if you already own the original kit you can upgrade it with just a new battery without having to buy the whole kit again.
The Swytch kit is incredibly easy to fit. It took us around 30 minutes working at a steady pace.
We tested it on both a reasonably light two-speed steel bike and a heavier Pinnacle utility bike. It transformed the ride of the two-speed bike, making it fast, nimble and responsive. We also found the stated range to be conservative: after 20 miles on setting number two (medium assist) it had only used two bars out of five on the battery.
With the heavier Pinnacle on maximum assist (and on draggy routes) we were getting slightly under the 30km for the Max battery. As with all e-bike batteries, range depends on the terrain, weight of bike and level of assist.
Great customer support makes this one of the best kits for people who are new to working on their bike and who aren’t familiar with electrics. And even if you do have a strong background in both those areas, a simple system is always appreciated.
Reasons to avoid
Like the Bafang mid-drive system below, the TongSheng offers the same benefits of compatibility with a wide range of bike designs and a high torque for steep hills and off-road terrain. However, the TongSheng mid-drive does manage to be a little lighter than the Bafang for approximately the same power.
This model doesn’t come with a battery included, so you’ll have to source your own 36v item. As a rule of thumb, around 10Ah will give a range of 29km / 18mi, whereas going up to 18Ah will typically give around 53km / 33mi, so be sure to factor that in when you’re making your choice.
There’s a huge range of batteries sold on Amazon, but Green Cell is a particular brand we’d recommend.
We found fitting to be reasonably easy. As with most mid-drive systems, you replace your crank and chainring with the one provided in the kit. There’s an LCD display for attaching to your handlebars and you’ll need a battery to be hooked up to the motor.
Read more: TongSheng TSDZ2 conversion kit review
Reasons to avoid
A mid-motor drive system offers a number of benefits over hub-driven conversion kits. With the power delivered at the cranks it can produce more torque, making it more effective on particularly steep and bumpy terrain.
Another perk is that the compatibility is much greater – no concern about wheel diameters, hub widths, axle standards and brake type. No matter whether you’re running rim brakes or disc, quick release or thru-axle, the crank driven system is compatible with all.
The only proviso is that the frame material must be alloy and the bottom bracket width is 68–73mm – but that covers most bikes you’re likely to be fitting this system to.
There are a few aspects to be aware of, the first being that this system doesn’t include a battery and that typically makes up about half the cost of a conversion kit. Finding an e-bike battery is quite straightforward with many being sold on Amazon, with Green Cell being among those we’d recommend.
Just make sure to get a 36V one for this motor as a higher voltage can damage it. Also you should be aware that capacity of 10Ah will give you a range of about 29km / 18mi, while a capacity of 18Ah typically gives about 53km / 33mi – so be sure to factor in the distances you’re planning on riding.
Reasons to avoid
This radically different approach from Rubbee makes for an e-bike conversion with much fewer parts. The battery and motor are housed in a single unit which powers the bike directly turning the rear wheel with its integrated roller.
Not only is the initial installation notably fast and easy, the quick release system means that you can take off the unit for rides that you don’t wish to be assisted on. At 2.8kg, it doesn’t add much weight to that of the bike, making the bike easier to handle.
The range of this model is quite low, limited to Eco mode it only offers a range of 16km / 10mi – although taking the device off to charge at the other end is easy to do and it only takes an hour to top up. There is the option to increase your range by buying additional battery modules that fit into the base unit.
Up to three can be accommodated, which in turn increases the maximum range to 48km / 30mi, or around 23km / 14mi with moderately heavy use. However, unlike many other e-bike systems, the Rubbee X supports regenerative braking, allowing you to scrub back some power on the descents.
Reasons to avoid
Bafang is a well established maker of electric bike motors and offers a front hub based motor, if you’re not a fan of the bulky profile a mid motor conversion system creates. You can buy this kit without a battery – although why would you? – but if you sensibly also opt for a power-pack there’s a choice of amp hours, and you can select either a downtube or a rear-rack mounted version.
The setup follows the same principles as most front-wheel e-bike conversions. First you need to set up the wheel with a disc rotor, tyre and inner tube and install that into the bike. Then attach the cadence sensor – so it can tell when you’re pedalling and need assistance – then attach the battery and the LCD display and you’re essentially good to go!
It’s worth bearing in mind that although this conversion kit comes in many different wheel sizes, it is only compatible with bikes that have a front disc brake and a Quick-Release axle. If your disc brake bike is a newer, more expensive model, it might not be compatible, so worth checking first.
Remember, that in the UK electric bike laws mean that e-bikes are not permitted to have a power output of more than 250w and shouldn’t propel the bike when it’s travelling more than 15.5mph – you’ll have to make sure you select the right model with the relevant limitations.
Reasons to avoid
We’ve also tested the Voilamart kit, which comes with six main parts: the replacement rear wheel, the replacement brake levers, the control screen, pedal sensor, throttle and the control box. It doesn’t come with a battery however.
On review we found the kit pretty straightforward to fit, although you’ll need to remove the bike’s crank to fit the pedal sensor and this element of the conversion was a bit fiddly. Another potential drawback is that the connectors, which link to control unit, aren’t waterproof, with only a bag supplied to house the delicate electronics. While it does a good job of keeping everything tidy, we decided to buy a plastic enclosure, cut the wires to length, solder the connections and then heat shrink for added protection.
As for the ride, the rear wheel kit delivers plenty of power. However, since the pedal sensor only detects when you’re pedalling rather than how hard you’re pedalling it delivers the power as soon as your start to turn the crank arms. Fortunately, you can quickly adjust the level assistance, with five power options available.
All in all the Voliamart rear wheel kit is an affordable way to ‘go electric’, although it requires you to be mechanical competent to fit it and you’ll need to factor in the additional cost of a battery.
How to convert your bike to an e-bike in four steps
Here’s our step-by-step guide to how to add an electric bike conversion kit to your pedal-powered bike.
Swap the tyre and tube
Firstly, remove the tyre and tube from your current front wheel and then install them on the new wheel from the kit. Make sure to check if the tyre is directional, if it is, ensure that the tyre is mounted so that the cable sticking out of the hub is on the left-hand side (non-driveside) when the wheel is installed in the bike – otherwise it’ll be powered in the opposite direction to your direction of travel!
To swap the tyre and tube over, you will need some tyre levers and a pump. If you want to go over how to do these, we have a guide that can be accessed here.
Final points are to do up the nuts on the wheel’s axle to keep it firmly in place in the forks and to check that the brakes are correctly adjusted for the new wheel. If you’re unsure how to do that, we have another guide here.
Attach the bracket to the handlebars
There is a strap that needs to be attached to the bars to keep the bracket in place and stop it rotating around. There are also some adaptors included in the kit which can be used if your handlebars are a little skinnier.
But essentially all that’s needed to be done here is a couple of screws to clamp the bracket tightly to the bars.
Attach magnet disc and sensor
The magnet disc has a split design so it can just clip around the inside of the left (non-driveside crank) and is then held in place by its retention ring. Next, stick the sensor on the frame directly in line with the magnets – this will ensure that the sensor can tell when the cranks are moving.
Plug in the cables
The thickest one is the main power cable and that just needs to be plugged into the cable extending from the hub. The other orange cable attaches to the cadence sensor and this just needs plugging in as well.
It’s then a good idea to use some cable ties to tidy up the lengths of the cables a little bit, so they aren’t flapping about and risk getting caught on the spokes or on the cranks.
The blue cables, you don’t need to worry about, these are for an optional brake sensor upgrade kit.
Why convert your bike to an e-bike?
What types of conversion kit are available?
You can get conversion kits that power your front or rear wheel or power the bikes via the cranks.
Wheel-based systems usually have a hub motor and require replacement of your existing wheel with a compatible motorised one.
The alternative is a system like the Rubbee that drives your wheel by pushing on the tyre. Tyre wear can be an issue here though.
Finally, there are systems that power the e-bike via the bottom bracket.
Usually the e-bike’s battery will bolt onto your frame or be attached to your handlebars, although sometimes you can fit a battery pack to a rear rack.
We’ve more on compatibility. which can be an issue. below.
How much does it cost to convert a bike to an e-bike?
vary depending on the type of conversion kit and the size of the battery. To give a rough Band, you can expect to pay a total of between £500 and £800 from a reputable brand, but there will be outliers at either end.
Is it worth converting a bike to an e-bike?
There are many reasons to upgrade your bike to offer a little e-assistance. On the one hand, it can greatly increase the usefulness of your bike, enabling you to replace short car journeys – such as around town, to the shops, or to work – with going by bike instead.
It’s a lot more environmentally friendly getting about on two wheels than in a two-ton metal box. It can also save you time – bikes are able to take more direct routes and are less affected by traffic, as well as eliminating the need to search for a parking space at the other end.
But beyond just their practical benefits, e-bikes can also be a potent tool for boosting your fitness. Consistency is key when it comes to exercise, so making commitments with friends is a great way to ensure you’re heading out the door. Previously, differing fitness levels could make it difficult to find a riding partner but with an e-bike levelling the playing field, getting in a productive workout (for both of you) with a friend is much easier to do.
Added to that, an e-bike can be much more motivating in that it opens up a far greater range of roads than you’d be able to access just under the power of your own two legs. Exploring new roads is part of the fun of riding a bike and an e-bike can help preserve that.
Can you convert any regular bike to an e-bike?
Most bikes can be converted to an e-bike – it just requires getting the matching the right conversion kit to match the specification.
For conversion kits where the motor is located at the wheel’s hub, you’ll need to consider the wheel’s diameter, the width and axle standard of the hub and whether it uses rim or disc brakes. For instance, a 700c (AKA, 28”) disc brake wheel with a 100mm wide quick-release hub is a relatively common spec. Once you’ve determined what type of wheel you need, the conversion is quite a straightforward process
Crank driven systems are generally easier in terms of determining compatibility; the requirements are typically just an alloy frame and a bottom bracket width of between 68 and 73mm – which is the standard for all road and mountain bikes, it’s only specialist bikes that have a different spacing there. In replacing the crankset, these systems are a bit more involved to fit than a hub system, but still well within the remit of a home mechanic.
Other kits, such as those that directly drive the rear tyre, have almost universal compatibility – provided your tyres aren’t too heavily treaded.
Are electric bike conversion kits any good?
You won’t be getting the very best motors and the largest, seamlessly integrated batteries with an e-bike conversion kit. But with that said, e-bike conversion kits are much cheaper than purchasing a whole new e-bike and they do deliver many of the same benefits.
Converted e-bikes are great for commuting and utility cycling, giving that extra boost to help flatten hills, motor along the flat and lug about heavy loads. E-bike conversions are also good for leisure cycling, helping to moderate your effort level as needed and greatly extending the range you can explore.
For more specialist utility needs, buying a new cargo e-bike would help boost your carrying capacity and range. Equally, for the aesthetically conscious, the latest breed of e-road bikes are almost indistinguishable from a non-powered bike at first glance. Then again, both those options are much more expensive than a conversion.
How we test
Where we’ve been able to link to a review, it means that we’ve put the ebike conversion kit through its paces. We’ve assessed how easy it is to fit and maintain as well other factors such as quality of the components and battery life and charge time. Riding the bike once fitted with the kit, we’ve taken into account the ride quality, the ease of use and the battery range.
Where we haven’t yet had the chance to review an item, we’re still confident in recommending it as one of the best, because we either know the brand really well, and have probably tested another product or the previous version and can still happily recommend it as one of the best.
This ebike conversion kit breathed new life into my 30-year-old bike
The Swytch ebike conversion kit was a great addition to my 30-year-old bike. However, its limited range, convoluted ordering process, and long wait times would make me think twice about buying it.
Why you can trust Tom’s Guide?
Our writers and editors spend hours analyzing and reviewing products, services, and apps to help find what’s best for you. Find out more about how we test, analyze, and rate.
I’ve had my Trek 830 bike for 30 years; my parents purchased it for me when I was a kid so I could ride from home to school and back. While the paint has chipped in a few places and I’ve had to replace the shifters and tires over the years, it’s held up remarkably well. After my daughter was born, I added a child seat to the bike to give it new purpose. And, since I first used my bike to ride to school, why couldn’t I use it once again for that purpose — only this time, it would be to take my daughter to her school.
However, as she has grown, it’s become harder to get up the hills around my town. Taking her to school would also be a challenge. But could an electric bike conversion kit breathe new life into my 30-year-old ride? I installed the Swytch ebike conversion kit onto my trusty Trek to find out.
One of the advantages of buying a conversion kit is that they’re less expensive than buying one of the best electric bikes — even one of the best budget electric bikes. And, if you already have a traditional bike, there’s no sense in going out and buying a completely new model. But how does a conversion kit like the Swytch compare to an electric bike? Read the rest of this Swytch review to find out.
Swytch eBike conversion kit review: Price and availability
The Swytch eBike conversion kit is available only through Swytch’s website. The company offers two versions: one for traditional bikes and one for folding bikes like the Brompton.
As part of the ordering process, you need to provide some information, such as the wheel size of your bike (from 16 to 28 inches), whether you have disc or rim brakes, what kind of display you want, and the size of the battery you want — Air (15km 90Wh) or the tablet-sized Max (30km 180Wh). If you do order, go with the larger battery. I’ll explain why later in this review.
Because of limited inventory, Swytch has a convoluted ordering process. As of this writing, if you want the Max version by July/August, it will cost 879; if you don’t mind waiting until September/October, the price is 649.
Similarly, an Air model for a July/August delivery date costs 649, but drops to 499 if you wait until September/October. Regardless of the model, you also have to put in a downpayment of 200 to 300, depending on which you choose.
But that’s not all — after submitting your credit card information, you’re then hit with other add-ons, some of which are necessary, such as a display, which can also drive up the price. (I couldn’t find specific for these, as I would have had to place an order for the bike.)
I also found three separate pages for ordering the Swytch; through this page, it looks like you can order the Air kit straightaway for 1,500; this Swytch page lets you order the bike with a much lower price with the longer delivery dates; and this Swytch page merely lets you sign up for a waitlist.
The three separate ordering pages, the long wait times, and the hidden fees all would make me feel uneasy if I were a consumer.
Swytch eBike conversion kit review: Installation
The Swytch kit came with a nice set of tools — a beefy adjustable wrench, a pair of clippers, and a set of Allen wrenches. Ironically, the latter did not have a small enough Allen wrench for a couple of the screws on the Swytch kit. You will need to provide your own tools for removing the tire from your bike’s wheel, but those are pretty inexpensive. This set of four bike tire levers costs 10 on Amazon, and any local bike shop should have plenty of these in stock.
Installing the whole kit took around 30 to 45 minutes, though it may take a little longer if you haven’t worked on a bike before. First, you have to swap the front tire on your bike for the one that comes in the kit. You then have to install a sensor around your pedals, and then put the battery pack and display on your bike. The battery pack gets mounted between your handlebars and takes up a lot of real estate; I had to move my bike light to a different spot.
Everything is secured using screws or plastic zip ties, which are also included in the installation kit. Except for the front tire, everything is pretty noninvasive, so you can remove it easily.
Swytch eBike conversion kit review: Performance
The Swytch has a modest 250W motor, but it was more than powerful enough to give me a nice boost as I was pedaling. It didn’t turn my 30-year-old Trek into a motorcycle, but it did make it a lot easier to get up and down hills. In the U.S., you’re limited to a max assisted speed of 20 miles per hour, which was plenty fast for me.
The motor kicks in after a couple of cranks of the pedal, so it isn’t as instantaneous as the torque sensor on some of the best electric bikes. Then again, this kit costs less than 1,000, so I’m willing to give it a bit of leeway.
The small OLED display (which shows your speed, trip distance, and battery life) was bright enough for most situations, but it would get washed out by direct sunlight. I didn’t look at it all that often, anyway. Two buttons just below the display let me adjust the level of motor-assist; they were easy to press, but you should try and mount it as close as you can to your thumb.
While the basic kit offers pedal-assist only, you can purchase a thumb throttle for the Swytch if you want it to do all the work. However, this will drain its small battery even faster.
Swytch eBike conversion kit review: Battery life and range
The only real issue I had with the Swytch was the size of its battery. The company advertises that the 180Wh Max battery has a max range of 30 kilometers, which equates to about 17 miles.
The ride from my house to my kid’s school is about 3.6 miles, making two roundtrips roughly 14.4 miles. In my years of testing electric scooters and electric bikes, I’ve found that manufacturer’s range estimates to be highly optimistic, and the Swytch was no different. Its battery died while I was still a mile — and one big hill — away from my home.
Hopefully, Swytch will make a larger battery pack in the future — perhaps one that could be attached to a rear bike rack.
The Swytch’s battery popped out easily from its handlebar-mounted position; the battery (9 x 3.9 x 1.4 inches) is about the size of a woman’s clutch, so it’s not overly large. While it’s easy to throw in your backpack, I wish there was a way to lock it into place on the bike itself, so I wouldn’t have to worry about it being stolen.
Swytch eBike conversion kit review: Bottom line
Taking my daughter to school and picking her up on my bike on a nice warm, sunny spring day was a real treat. We could better enjoy all the lawns and gardens of our neighbors as we rode by, and it was a pleasure to smell the flowers and blossoms along the way.
It’s certainly more pleasurable than driving in a car, and over the course of a week, it saved me about a gallon and a half of gas; over the course of a month, that would conservatively be about 130 miles.
Will this pay off anytime soon? Not likely. My Honda CR-V gets about 30 miles to the gallon. Taking an average price of 3.50 per gallon, we’re spending about 15 per month just to drive her to school. At that rate, it would take 40 months to pay off the cost of the Swytch, assuming I’d use my bike every day.
However, the limited range and the murky ordering process don’t inspire much confidence; if Swytch were a bit more open about what accessories come with the kit, I might be more inclined to order.
Even so, there are other ebike conversion kits that offer more value, even if they cost more. This Bafang front hub kit, for instance, comes with a 500W motor and a much larger 557Wh battery for 849. Bafang is also upfront about what each add-on costs, and you can get it right away.
The closer you get to 1,000, the less attractive an ebike conversion kit becomes, as many of the best budget electric bikes can be found for around that price. But, if you want to breathe some new life into your old bike, these kits are definitely worth a look.
from Tom’s Guide