Fastest Dirt Bikes in the World
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Motorcycles are the dominant vehicles when it comes to fast two-wheels, but some dirt bikes can hold out their own in terms of speed. Granted, dirt bikes are rated for other attributes that are more important than speed, including suspension and the power levels of the gears.
You may be tempted to see how fast your model can go when you are out doing jumps and climbs on dirt roads to make your experience more exhilarating. If you want a particularly fast dirt bike, consider the following options:
Honda CRF (142 km/h- 87 mph) – 450cc
The Honda CRF 450R is a legendary model in motocross, even though it is not the fastest on this list. It tops at 87 mph (142km/h), which is not too shabby.
Honda continues to implement minor changes on the CRF 450R since it underwent a significant overhaul in 2017. The 2019 model, for example, features upgrades on the pistol oil jet, clutch lifter, HRC launch control, brake pads, and exhaust.
The upgraded model has better power and balance thanks to the tweaks and changes. The battery box has been fitted 28mm lower in the chassis to reduce its center of gravity and improve balance.
Honda has also included its definition of traction control through the new Selectable Torque Control.
The Honda CRF is among the best models you can get in the 450 class as it puts power to the ground.
Yamaha WR (142 km/h – 88 mph) – 250cc
The Yamaha WR is quite popular in the dual-sport segment thanks to its superb performance both on-road and off. ‘WR” identifies it as a wide-ratio gearbox that allows it a reasonable balance of off-road and on-road responsiveness.
The model will top at 88 mph, and while it is not particularly a fast bike, enthusiasts appreciate its lightweight and agility. You will however have to wind it up quite tight to achieve high speeds.
The engine will comfortably power speeds of between 110-120 km/h making the bike ideal for long-distance explorations.
The chassis is forged from aluminum, and the tapered swingarm makes the model look like a race bike. The seat is quite tall at 36.6 inches, and short users might need to use upping blocks.
There is a low-fuel light, but the entire display is small.
The Yamaha WR may be more expensive than the competition, but you get an aluminum chassis, fuel-injected motor, and fully adjustable suspension.
Kawasaki KX (143 km/h – 89 mph) – 450cc
The Kawasaki KX450 is a dominant model in motocross. It is packed with sophisticated technologies that make it not only fun to ride but also exhilarating.
The 2019 Kawasaki KX model features upgraded suspension, frame, and body. It revs out father than before and is much easier to ride than previous models.
The dirt bike provides the Standard, Soft, and Hard choices to change the power delivery as determined by the terrain.
It is impressively stable in tough sections, and the adjustable handlebar mounts and peg mounts promote rideability.
The bike features the Dunlop Geomax MX3S tires that function extremely well on the track. Its shock will handle harsh landings comfortably, and you can finetune with low- and high-speed compression damping tweaks. There is also minimal harsh bottoming even on rough G-outs.
The four-stroke engine on the Kawasaki KX powers speeds of up to 89 mph. Its impressive performance on motocross championships makes it a solid racing bike for any enthusiast.
of the Rarest Dirt Bikes We Want to Ride
1961 Lito 500 Motocross (Est. Value 55,000)
This Lito was a major player in the earliest years of motocross.
Not only was it known for having groundbreaking construction but many talented riders used it. You might even remember seeing Sten Lundin ride the Albin-powered Lito to win the 1961 FIM 500cc World Motocross Championship.
For those of us that weren’t alive during that time, it’s important to note that this bike came from a rivalry between Great Britain and Sweden. They were racing to build the best four-stroke bike possible during the 1950s and 1960s. That’s where Nils Hedlund, a Swedish builder, comes into the picture. He paired some of the best British construction with an upgraded chassis and engine.
Hedlund effectively gave the Swedes an advantage with this build. While several replicas have been constructed of the Lito 500 Motocross, it’s estimated that there are only 35 originals. That’s why it’s super rare and quite pricey as well.
1968 Suzuki TM250 (Est. Value 40,000)
You might know that the TM250 is the first motocross bike from Japan.
Back in 1966, Suzuki had two engineers work with a road racer to develop a motocross bike in Europe. They tested out both twin engines and single-cylinder models, but finally settled with a single-cylinder. It was influenced by the 1965 CZ Twin-Port 250 bike.
At first, the Grand Prix results weren’t that fabulous. Then, Suzuki put their efforts back into it and improved the machine. The 1967 version was called the RH67. Unfortunately, the subpar handling and peaky power didn’t hold up against European bikes from CZ and Husqvarna. Even still, Suzuki built more than 100 of them and sent 65 of them to the States. That’s where the Suzuki TM250 came from.
Several racers rode it including Gary Conrad, Walt Axthelm and Preston Petty. That’s what helped it to become one of the top collector motocross bikes in the United States. When it was sold, it came complete with a parts kit that contained replacement clutch parts, carburetor jetting, gearing plus pistons and rings. You know, because those things tend to go bad all the time, right?
If you can get your hands on one of these today for 40k, you should scoop it up. Projections state that this bike could be worth more than 100k in the next ten years.
1975 Puch MC250 Twin Carb (Est. Value 30,000)
Puch is an Austrian company that employed Harry Everts, the Belgian motocross rider in 1974 to race during the FIM 250cc World Motocross Championships. It took a year before he found the sweet spot. That’s when he dominated the Suzukis and ended up taking four championships in a row.
The 1975 Puch MC250 featured a Marzocchi suspension, magnesium cases, a clean frame design, magnesium hubs and forks plus a twin carb setup. It came with a Bing carburetor that had the traditional piston port setup plus a second carb that fed the rotary valve located on the engine’s right side.
In total, there were only 90 of these machines produced in 1975, but they weren’t sold until 1976. If you can find one, you have yourself an extremely rare dirt bike indeed.
1968 Bultaco 360 El Bandido (Est. Value 15,000)
The Spanish Bultaco El Bandido arrived on the scene in 1967. At the time it was only a 350cc model, but the company later increased the bore size to 85mm from 83mm. This gave it 362cc plus 43.5 horsepower. You could find both a scrambler and motocross model of this exquisite machine.
The American model featured a longer wheelbase of 55.9 inches. It also came with a 31-degree head angle that made it perform better on a scrambler track. While it might not be worth the same amount as our top three rarest dirt bikes, it sure would be a lot of fun to ride.
1965 CZ250 Twin Port (Est. Value 14,000)
This CZ250 twin-port bike is actually a replica of the company’s GP bike of the day. What a time, right?
The Best Vintage Dirt Bike Brands to Look For
If you aren’t in the market for the rarest dirt bike in the world but you still want to ride a vintage steed, there’s a lot of ways to cure your desires.
You need to know that there are quality vintage bikes and poorly constructed ones, just like they are new. You have to understand what you are looking for in order to get the best deal.
Before purchasing, you should always consider how easy it will be to find parts, what the reliability is and does it retain its resale value in case you want to get rid of it later.
Here are some bike brands that are real winners if you want a vintage dirt bike.
The Pursangs were supremely reliable and offered fast speeds. Not only that, but a rebuilt model can come across very classy when done right. You might also consider the 1968 Bandito. This insane rocket ship demands respect on and off the trail.
No-go: Stay far from the Astros. The lifespan of a 1971 to 1973 model was more like a mayfly than a bull.
Look for one of the earlier twin-pipe models, even if it’s not in perfect condition. These continue to rise in value and are a great investment. Other options include 1970 or 1971 250, 360 and 400 models.
No-go: What you don’t want is a 1973 or 1974 250 Enduro. It featured a lot of previous year’s parts and the bike itself was incredibly slow. You also want to avoid the 125 racer. It weighs more than the 400, horsepower is non-existent and the suspension was stubby at best.
First time on the gsxr1000 stretch street bike
You will have trouble finding parts for any Greeves bike. Still, the story behind the brand and the resale value of most models makes them appealing and they are quite unique. We would pick the late 1960s or early 1970s 250s and 360s. You might also consider the 1972 or 1973 380 QUB.
Look for a 1972 to 1973 Super Rat or Combat Wombat. Parts are easy to get your hands on and both of these bikes have plenty of personality.
If you can get your hands on an old XR-75, then you would be riding one of the best pit bikes ever. Look for a 1973 125 or 250 Elsinore for a vintage racer. Just make sure it’s clean and cared for.
No-go: The worst four-stroke ever to exist must be the 1973 XL175. The XL350 wasn’t much better.
Late 1960s models until 1971 are all good. Heck, this is one of the most recognizable names in the history of motorsports. You’re hard-pressed to find one nobody wants.
No-go: Stay away from a 1972 or 1973 because they weighed 25 more pounds and weren’t reliable. If you prefer a 1974, that works too, but avoid a 450 Desert Master.
In the late 1960s, Kawasaki produced a 100cc racer which put out 18.5 horsepower: the Centurion is a quality bike that puts many others to shame. You could also look for the 238cc rotary-valved racer from the 1970s that offered plenty of lower-end torque and massive horsepower.
No-go: You will probably want to avoid the 1972 Bighorn. Anything that earned the nickname Pighorn isn’t worth your time. Also, stay far from the 1974 MXers.
Any square-barrel model will work from 1970 to 1972. 1973 and 1974 Radial 250s and 400s are always winners.
No-go: Avoid the 450cc because they didn’t offer any faster speeds and faced trouble with the clutches. Another one you don’t want to buy is the six-speed 125cc Maico. It was troublesome to service and you’ll have issues with the gearbox.
No-go: You might want to skip over this brand completely. While the Cappra might be doable, the rest of the lineup isn’t worth its weight.
Look for an early 1970s Stiletto. It featured a 250cc engine, superior reliability and plenty of power. This Spanish company also released a 1974 Phantom which is valuable. It weighs 197 pounds and offers lots of performance. And as far as obscure brands go, this one is pretty out there.
Tips for Buying Rare Vintage Dirt Bikes
When you start your hunt for vintage racers and rare dirt bikes, you might be tempted to purchase more than one. Go for it! After all, you only live once. On top of that, if you can find a few of the same model, you save yourself time looking for parts. Which you inevitably will.
Here are a few other pointers you might find valuable.
Tip #1: Restored or unrestored?
You have two options with your purchase. You can spend more for an already restored racer or purchase a junker that needs work. If you choose the latter option, make sure you negotiate that price way down.
Tip #2: Check the condition
These bikes have often sat for a very long time. Make sure you look at the areas that see chronic wear. For example, if you plan to buy a vintage CZ, watch the swingarm. If it wasn’t serviced, it often froze and was ruined. It does you no good to get a bargain on a 1971 Maico 400 when it has a blown clutch and bad drive.
Check anything that’s supposed to move, look inside the gas tank for rust, and if possible peek inside the engine with a boroscope. Above all else, make sure the engine is free unless you’re okay with unwrapping a mystery.
Tip #3: Buy lots of parts
When you decide on the bike you want, stock up on parts. You’ll want to keep an inventory of other pistons, rings and critical parts. Make sure you carry spares for some expendable items like spark plugs, filters, lines, and hoses along with the tools to make a fix on the side of the road.
That would have been a good idea even when these were new, let alone decades later.
Tip #4: Invest in a manual
It always pays to have the corresponding shop manual close at hand. This will offer you all the sizes and part numbers of every component you might need.
Tip #5: Start working with fiberglass
Knowing how to ‘glass enables you to fix fender and body damage on these vintage dirt bikes. Once you have the metric measurement sizes, you should be able to perfectly duplicate whatever you need after you learn the necessary skills to do so.
Tip #6: Look for interchangeable parts
What many people don’t realize is that many parts of old dirt bikes are interchangeable.
For example, many Euro bikes feature interchangeable bearings, rings and pistons. You’ll also find that Maico and Husky clutch plates are nearly identical. If you have a Suzuki, Kawasaki or Yamaha, you might even see that they use a lot of the same internal components.
These vintage dirt bike shared more parts than you might think, so do your homework to avoid paying more just because something has a certain brand name on it.
Tip #7: Ride your bike often
Once you restore your vintage dirt bike, don’t forget to enjoy it. It makes absolutely no sense to build it and then stick it under a sheet. Not to mention, that’s when all the problems really start creeping in.
Bring the past alive and share your dirt bike with the world. Who knows, you might inspire others to become interested in vintage dirt bikes simply from seeing yours. You could change the world.
What vintage dirt bike do you love?
Do you have a collection of the rarest dirt bikes known to man? Did we miss your favorite one? We would love to hear about it.
Leave us a comment and let us know if we missed anything you think should have made the list.
Due to a total failure of the old steel frame of my former “everyday” bicycle I bought a new frame in june 2005 – Surly Crosscheck – and built a new bicycle. It has horizontal dropouts with a hanger and a spacing of 132.5 mm – so it is possible to mount road hubs with 130 mm as well as “MTB” hubs or shifting hubs with 135 mm. Also wider tires or fenders and a rack is no problem.
Originally I tried to use as many parts from the old bicycle as possible – but in the end it became an almost completely new assembly. The new rear wheel was already planned for the old bicycle and was built by myself.
The following picture series shows the development over nearly 11 years: first build in September 2005, then in February 2015 and finally in July 2016 after the Brooks leather saddle was stolen :-(.
Meanwhile (as of May 2022) the bicycle is nearly 17 years old but still useable very well.
“Do it yourself”
The first step was sealing the frame tubes to avoid excessive rust development – which is also recommended by Surly by the way. For this I used “Caramba Hohlraumspray” for cars – a medium, which is sprayed into the tubes in liquid form and becomes a waxy coating after a few hours, when the solvent volatilised.
Headset and fork were mounted by the dealer, where I bought the rest of the parts. The rest was assembled during about three weeks little by little – in a proper workshop it probably would have been faster, but I bought a cheap used bicycle for the transitional period, which was reasonably useful and afterwards served my brother for a couple of years quite well.
Due to the frame geometry there is only little space between the rear fender and the seatpost. First the front derailleur didn’t fit at all. A “down swing” model, where I thought, that it would be less problematic, unfortunately also didn’t help. It would have worked without fender – but for a “everyday” bicycle this was not the ideal solution. So the only possibility in the end was to move the fender a bit back from the lower crossbrace using a spacer. In this way, it was possible to mount the front derailleur and the rear wheel still fits – even when it’s quite tight with an inflated tire.
Rear fender and front derailleur – terse as possible
The Nexave rear derailleur from the old bicycle with the reverse attachement of the spring turned out to be quite problematic – the combination of the cable routing below the bottom bracket and the tight bend of the rear cable housing caused problems when changing gears. It was not possible to adjust the cable in a way, that both directions worked properly.
After several trials a derailleur with “normal” function was mounted, which works reliable.
For the sprockets an 8-speed-cassette is used, which still works with “7-speed”-chains, which I assume to be a bit more durable as the narrower versions for 9- or 10-speed-gears. Fortunately the cassette hub gives the freedom of choice – if I once want to use smaller gear steps I can change the sprockets very easily.
At the moment (as of July 2013) I use a 9-speed-cassette, a Shimano XT rear derailleur (RD-M751) and Shimano Deore “two-way release” shifters (SL-M590).
The originally used Magura rim brakes sadly developed an annoying problem: The pistons tended not to retract completely. During winter the brake pads started to rub on the rims (even with the adjustment screws turned back completely). Since neither exchanging the oil nor any cleaning attempts helped permanently, I retired the Maguras and replaced them with V-brakes. The V-brakes work quite well with Kool Stop brake pads, don’t squeal, are very reliable and not much worse than the Maguras.
Since November 2012 a newer version of the Magura HS11 (including brake boosters) is being used again. I have mounted the V-brakes onto my winter bicycle.
I already admired the advantages of a hub dynamo in my old bicycle. But the Shimano HB-NX32 turned out not to be fully suitable for daily use, since the bearings sometimes “freezed” during winter due to penetrated moisture and generally seemed not to be very durable (broad wear on the cones despite regular maintenance). Therefore, this part went to my second bicycle. For the new bicycle I could afford a SON (Schmidt Original Nabendynamo) as well as a Schmidt E6Z as a switchable additional light besides the Lumotec Oval Senso Plus, which is mounted on the handlebar using the lamp support by Riese Müller.
Double headlamps – Lumotec Oval Senso Plus, E6Z
Meanwhile I use an “Edelux” by Schmidt – very small and very bright.
Alltogether the bicycle is potpourri of parts and also not a lightweight model – but it works quite good and is still very comfortable after more than twelve years regular use (as of January 2018) :-).
The suspension seatpost was soon replaced by a more simple, fixed seatpost, since the suspension started to develop an excessive play after a few thousand kilometers, even with linear ball bearings. In fact I don’t miss the suspension. If neccessary I just stand up if the way is a bit harsh. The saddle is (again) a Brooks leather saddle, also without suspension, but with pre-treated, softer leather and lacing to keep the shape.
In march 2007 I finally dismissed the Ultegra rear hub. Generally it worked fine – but sometimes the freewheel body tended to produce a random cracking noise, sometimes it even slipped, when the pawls didn’t engage immediately. The chain was completely ok, also the sprockets. Since a new freewheel body also didn’t solve this problem I finally mounted a DT Swiss 340 road. Therefore the rear wheel only has 32 instead of 36 spokes, which might confuse the esthetic look (compared to the 36 spokes front wheel) – but one only can see this when examining at the wheel very faithful and the stability is completely sufficient.
The DT Swiss has a bearing with two sealed grooved ball bearings and two other sealed bearings in the freewheel body – alltogether a very high grade workmanship and it also feels absolutely precise. The freewheel mechanism consist of two spring-loaded tooth wheels which works very reliable and is very simple to maintain – you can pull the complete freewheel including the mounted sprockets apart from the hub without any special tool. The ideal complement to the SON in front ;-). The random cracking noise from the rear wheel disappeared completely by all means.
End of 2008
The following pictures are also available at a larger size – just click them:
Beginnng of 2009
During winter 2008/2009 I used spike tires for a while (Continental Nordic Spike). I found, that the fenders with 42 mm where quite tight. Therefore I mounted wider finders with 53 mm and also choose wider tires for summer (42-522). The extension for the front fender is missing yet, but I think it will be mounted soon. A new chain was also neccessary and I noticed that the middle chainring was worn out heavily and had to be replaced as well.
The following picture is from beginning of april – here you can also see the hanger in action:
Unfortunately, the pedals became strongly rusty during the last winter and where replaced by PD-A530. The tail light is now a “Toplight Line Plus” with an disengable sidelight.
I couldn’t resist and replaced the Cyo with an “Edelux” by Schmidt.
The PD-A530 which I have used for a while, unfortunately developed quite heavy rust and were not very secure when used in rain without cleats – therefore I decide to use (new) PD-M324 again. For the use during winter I got addtional pedals with a “biting” cage as well (Contec Trail) which I mount if neccessary.
Besides that the bicycle still drives very well after more then 7 years – hub dynamo, rear hub, gears and brakes still work like new, even though used the whole year at every weather condition.
Motivated by the sales discount of a local bicycle dealer I converted the brakes to hydraulic rim brakes (again – Magura HS11) and 3×9 Deore shift levers SL-M590 (incl. a new 9 sprocket cassette HG61 with 11-32 teeth). Mounting the Magura brakes using the “Evo 2” adapter was indeed quite easy – but brake boosters are still useful if you don’t have an extreme solid fork, since the brake cylinders otherwise bend a bit to the outside when pulling harder on the brake levers. The pressure point is also a bit “spongy” without brake boosters.
The new shift levers are a real improvement compared to the old ones – you need much less force on the thumb lever and gear shifts happen more precisely, even (or because of) with the narrower spacing of 9 compared to 8 gears. Only the position of the gear indicators on top of the handle bar are a bit inconvinient since this leaves less room for the bell – but in the end this was also resolvable.
Wheels and hubs
The wheels on the Rose Backroad have made a positive impression on me so far. They are quite sturdy and support a nimble ride due to the taller rim profile. The in-house 28″/700cc G-Thirty Disc Gravel rims have a medium-high profile and a 25mm inner rim width. According to Rose, they are manufactured in-house by the Bocholt-based company.
The hubs are a joint development of Rose and Newmen with 28 spokes, which have a Centerdisc brake disc mount. The wheelset costs around 450 euros (with 24 spokes), which is quite inexpensive.
For the tires, Rose relies on the WTB Raddler. Unfortunately, they didn’t work for me at all: after only 54km, I already had two flat tires. Off-road, however, they actually work quite well and are ridden in dry conditions and appropriate pressure also safe and true to track in the curves. Nevertheless, I often had the impression that the Raddler are not up to the energy and power of the Backroad and limit the performance rather.
From the factory, the Backroad is delivered with tube. I would recommend you but quickly convert to tubeless. For this, however, you must install proper sealing tape, because with the wheels the rim interior is only lightly taped. And I would then change as soon as possible to other tires, such as the Schwalbe G-One Bite or R.
What I noticed by the flats: the rim paint layer is very sensitive. Thus, when the tire is lifted off with jacks, there are traces on the rim. In addition, stones on the rims quickly leave their mark. I do not mind, but who goes more after externals, should know that.
The test bike is new to the Backroad model range and has the SRAM Rival eTap AXS XPLR 1X12 installed.
The Backroad Rival eTap AXS XPLR 1×12 embodies pure gravel action. Between new, unknown terrains and home trails you conquer with this gravel bike all paths off the road and do not stop at steep climbs.
The gearing consists of a 40 ring front and rear of a 10-44 cassette. I especially liked the fine gear graduation in the higher gears of the Rival: 10, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 28, 32, 38, 44.
This makes it quite pleasant to react to changes and also offers enough design freedom with light luggage in the terrain and when it should get steeper. The cassette is available in two versions: once with the larger sprocket made of aluminum, once made of steel. The difference lies in the weight of 373g to 412g.
The gear ratio from 40 to 44 offers a slight reduction (great set!). This is enough without luggage or with light luggage even for climbs up to 12/13%. I’ve ridden the bike on asphalt slopes up to 15%, which went well. However, if luggage is added, it can be quite fast narrow and pushing is required. The Gravel gears are just not really designed for Bikepacking, but “only” for graveling. Some ease you can get if you change the front of 40 to a 38er sheet. Less but according to SRAM is not possible with the Rival XPLR crank.
Therefore, light Bikepacking is possible. If it goes into more demanding terrain with more luggage, the end is soon there. Who would not want to do without a Backroad even under these conditions, which should look at the Classified model or the 2×11 variants with GRX.
Of course, I was curious about the performance of the new SRAM Rival AXS. As expected, it switches very precisely and reliably even under load. It’s just fun and very easy to set up and adjust. I myself have since switched to SRAM’s electronic shifting and combine a Road with a MTB circuit on my Endurance MTB.
The Rival brakes had to be braked in first, but then did a very good job. They can be dosed well and have worked well even in light wet conditions with the 160 discs. And that without grinding or squeaking.
Handlebars, Saddle Co.
When it comes to the handlebars, Rose relies on proven quality and installs on the Rival AXS version the Ritchey Venture Max Comp in 40er width, which has this characteristic wave in the lower link.
I love this wave, because the hands can “lock” there well and the bike can thus be controlled safely even off-road. Personally, I would have taken a wider handlebar, but that’s individual. Maybe you can ask Rose here in the purchase process whether the adjustment of the handlebar width is possible.
The stem is the Rose model already mentioned above, called Square, made of aluminum with 6 degrees inclination / slope. This adapts in shape to the D-shape of the headset and has front also equal openings for the installation of a GPS holder (Rose Mount Stem holder).
I could not find the stem on the Rose website and therefore can not say whether it is also available in other dimensions and inclinations.
Also already thematized is the D-Shape seatpost, which is 400mm long, made of carbon and has an offset of 8mm. The seatpost is attached by the way with a clamping screw on the side of the frame. This is optically quite nicely solved. For the saddle Rose relies on the WTB Silverado. This is inconspicuous and has fit me quite well, even on a long ride.
Conclusion classification in Martin’s Allroad Bike Categorization
As you know, I have developed an Allroad Bike categorization, in which I classify all the bikes I test and thus create a little more clarity.
This is not easy, also because the variety of types, applications, categorizations and trend designations make it almost impossible to structure this once. Nevertheless, I have tried it once. I have formed three categories under the generic term all-road bike, but of course they overlap and so also have common features:
- Performance Race: Some of the bikes come from the racing bike / crosser area and / or are inspired by there. Especially road cyclists who switch to gravel find pleasure in these very sporty bikes, which are primarily intended for competitive use.
- Leisure Everyday: Here I see the bikes that combine the sporty and the relaxed, and with which you can go almost anywhere without thinking much about it. Yes, here we’re talking mainly about the classic gravel bike as a primo offering to anyone who doesn’t want to worry about the surface anymore, but just wants to ride.
- Travel Adventure: Yes, even the daily commute to work can be adventure, but in this category I see all bikes that are suitable for almost all terrains, whose roots lie more in MTB and which make off-road, bikepacking and bike travel in all varieties possible.
From my point of view, the Rose Backroad Carbon can do almost everything well and is versatile. Its real strengths I see but more in the performance area and with the above-mentioned restrictions also in Travel Adventure.
The Rose Backroad Carbon is a very fast and agile bike. With the right tires, it can unfold even more potential in my view, or bring to the road or gravel. The Backroad Carbon is an interesting gravel bike for road cyclists who can get a taste of gravel without having to give up the road bike feeling. For mountain bikers, it is an interesting candidate when it needs a faster bike that does not immediately fail off-road.
Should I ever buy a gravel bike, the Backroad would definitely be on my priority list. I have driven the wheel a total of over 500km, including 280km at a stretch and have driven it very much over gravel and forest soil. It has done all this very well and I have felt quite quickly very comfortable on the bike.
2 STROKE DIRTBIKE SOUND is the best lullaby
The Backroad Carbon is also suitable for Bikepacking of course. Only the system weight of 110kg limits here somewhat the bicycle wanderlust. In any case, you can go with the Rose Backroad Carbon to explore some Orbits and set up record times if necessary.