Mini Bottle Electric eBike Battery 36V 14Ah 13Ah 10Ah With 18650 LG/Sanyo Li-ion Cell for Bafang TSDZ2 500W 350W 250W Motor
1) Factory Direct Store: We assemble all batteries in our own factory, never use fake or cheap cell pack sell at lowest price to attract buyers. In addtion, we have to scrimp on everything, assemble them as quickly/cheaply as possible. We don’t take chances when it comes to our batteries or your safety!
2) Official High Quality Cell Sources: We only source genuine A-grade genuine cells from the official sources.
3) Every Battery Made Cycle Test: Each pack is ran through a full charge and discharge before leaving our facility to make sure you are getting every amp hour you paid for.
The test include:
Short Circuit Safety Test √ Overcharge SafetyTest √ Crush Safety Test √ Needing Safety Test √ Extrusion Safety Test √
4) Best Oversea After-sale Service: We do all this and offer it at our usual low pricing, we don’t charge a premium for Safety and Reliability. We have a proven track record of offering great after-sales support and warranty repairs/replacements. We will not leave you stuck ( 18 Month warranty, with Support Centres in GermanyBelgiumUSACanadaAustralia ).
V Mini Bottle Ebike Battery Main Features
1) With patent private mold bottle style case, other manufacturer don’t have and can’t copy
2) New design small and light water bottle style with holder fit all electric bicycle
3) Waterproof IP65 and solid aluminium alloy, stronger a lot than normal plastic case
4) With USB port can charge cell phone and bluetooth speaker
5) Battery with ON/OFF switch, help you save more power
6) Lighted battery LED power Indicator, inform you battery power in anytime
7) Lock with keys securely locks the mount on bike frame
Charger Plugs and Discharge Connectors Optional
Charger Plug: US EU UK AU plugs optional, will provide according to delivery country if without requested.
Discharge Connector: There are 7 kinds optional as below picture, will soldered with default female connectorextra male connector if without requested.
Guarantee
2) Any battery with quality problem within o n e month we can resend you a new one after provide your proof.
4) All our electric bicycle batteries with high quality cells and BMS, and they will be 100% tested before shipping.
Feedback
1) Our battery can fit most of motor kit, exclude(not only) these: B0SCH, SHIMANO, YAMAHA, Panasonic.
3) If you have any problems please feel free to contact with us BEFORE you leave negative feedback or file a dispute.
6) Please kindly leave us a positive feedback and 5 Stars if you are satisfied with our items and services.
Battery Options
Here at Grin we’ve been dealing with ebike batteries for a very long time during which we’ve offered over 100 variants of NiCad, NiMH, LiFePO4, LiPo, and Lithium-Ion packs in all kinds of voltages, geometries, and capacities. It’s been a love/hate relationship over those years, but the more recent mass production of 18650 lithium cells for high power consumer goods like power tools has shifted things to the love side, with ebike batteries that are cheaper, lighter, and with far longer life span than we could have ever wished for in the past. We’re happy to stock both frame mount and rear rack mounted batteries from 98 watt-hours to 1100 watt-hours in size to suite the needs of most electric bicycle conversions.
Battery Options
Grin’s 2020 battery offerings include a mix of flat rack and downtube style batteries made with Panasonic, LG, and Samsung cells to suite a wide variety of user needs. Each pack uses Anderson Powerpole connectors on the discharge lead and includes a robust BMS circuit for overcharge, over discharge, and overcurrent protection.
36v 19Ah / 52v 14.5Ah / 72v 9.5Ah
We have had downtube-mounted batteries made with quality cells using popular casings from Hailong and Reention. They are designed for mounting to the water bottle eyelets on your frame tubing, though you can get a much more secure and versatile frame attachment using our Double Bob or Triple Bob anchors.
We used to have the smaller Hailong-01 enclosure in 36V 16.5Ah (10s 5p) layouts suitable for 20-25A current setups, and the larger Hailong-03 enclosure in a 52V 16.5Ah (14s 5p) size for higher current and capacity, but we have now switched to only Reention Poly-DP casings for a standardized cradle, stronger casing, and more reliable connectors. For extra large capacity (1 KWhr), we have the Reention DP-9C casings in 36V 26.5Ah and 52V 20Ah formats. We also have downtube enclosures for the larger 21700 cell format and have these available in 36V 14.5Ah, 36V 19.5Ah, 52V 14.5Ah and 72V 9.5Ah options with Panasonics NCR21700A cells (same as used on Telsa 3), and also in a 72V 7.5Ah format using the very high power capable Samsung 40T cells.
These Downtube batteries all have a mounting cavity compatible with our Baserunner motor controller for slick and clean kit installation.
How to Choose a Pack
The very first consideration when choosing a battery pack is ensuring that it can handle the current draw of your motor controller. If you have a 40A motor controller, but your battery is only rated to deliver 25A max, then either the BMS circuit will shut off the battery at full throttle, or the battery will be stressed and have reduced cycle life. The converse, having a battery that has a higher current rating than what your controller will draw, is no problem at all. In fact, it can be quite beneficial.
The next consideration is ensuring that the battery is large enough for your required travel range; it’s no fun having a battery go flat before the end of your trip. In order to determine the range that you will get from a given battery, you need to know both the watt-hour capacity of the battery, and how much energy you use per kilometer. Sounds complicated? Not really. As a rule of thumb, most people riding an ebike at average speeds consume about 10 Wh/km from their battery, and this makes the math very easy. If you have a 400 watt-hour battery, you can expect a range of 40km. A 720 watt-hour battery? ~72km
Of course, if you go really fast or are pulling an extra load, then this mileage will be worse, like 12-15 wh/km. On the other hand, if you use the motor more sparingly, then you can easily stretch it down to 6-8 wh/km. The table below summarizes the expected range for these different example batteries under light, average, and heavy usage paradigms:
| Range with Light Use | Range with Typical Use | Range with Heavy Use | |
| 3 Parallel LiGo (~300 Wh) | 35-45 km | 25-35 km | 18-22 km |
| 36V 14Ah Downtube (~500 Wh) | 60-80km | 45-55km | 30-35 km |
| eZee Flat Pack(~700 Wh) | 80-100km | 60-80km | 35-45 km |
| 52V 16.5Ah Downtube(~850 Wh) | 100-120 km | 80-90 km | 55-65 km |
It makes very little difference whether you have a small geared motor, a large direct drive motor, or a mid-drive motor. The mileage and range figures for a given battery have to do with how you use the ebike, not which motor system is on the bike.
Tip: No one EVER regrets having too much battery capacity
The Case for Extra Capacity
Say you have a 12km trip to work and back, so to do the full 24km round trip you’ll need 240 watt-hours. A 36V 8Ah battery at 288 watt-hours should be a perfect choice no?
The answer is that, unless you are seriously budget or weight constrained, this would probably be a bad battery investment. It might fit the bill initially for your commuting needs, but then it doesn’t really leave any reserve if you need to run some errands on the way home or forget to charge it up one night etc. Even worse, as the battery ages over time, the capacity drops. After a year your 8Ah battery is now only 7Ah, it’s only barely able to do your daily commute, and the next year when it is just 6Ah you now need to carry the charger with you and top it up at work every day.
Most people find that once they have an ebike, they use it for all kinds of applications and trips outside of just commuting, and the ability to go 50 km on a charge opens up possibilities that wouldn’t have been possible otherwise. Plus, as the battery ages and declines in capacity, it still has more than enough range for your key commuting needs. Imagine if instead of getting an 8Ah pack, you purchased a 15Ah battery. Even if after 4-5 years it has lost 30% of its original capacity, that’s still over 10Ah and leaves plenty of reserve for your 24km commute.
Furthermore, if you have more capacity than required, then you also have the opportunity to do partial charging of the battery with a Satiator or similar device, so that instead of charging the pack to 100% to squeeze out every km, your standard charge is set to a lower 80 or 90% level. This can have a pronounced effect increasing both the cycle life and calendar life of a lithium battery by several fold.
And a final point is that a larger battery has a lower per cell stress during discharge since the current is shared among more parallel cells. Cells that are cycled at high discharge currents (1-2C) exhibit noticeably lower cycle life than those cycled at low currents
Parallel Connecting Batteries
One of the easiest ways to increase the current handling capability and range is to put two or more batteries in parallel. In general, with lithium batteries of the same nominal voltage, this is no problem. It is ok to mix old and new lithium batteries in parallel, or even batteries from different manufacturers and with different capacities, so long as they are the same voltage. We stock a parallel battery joining cable to facilitate connecting packs this way.
Where things can get a bit dicey is in charging batteries that are parallel connected. If you leave the batteries in parallel while charging, then the charger current will get shared between the batteries and you can be sure that they are always at the same charge level. However, that does mean one of the batteries will be getting charged through the discharge port. For single port BMS circuits, this is not a concern, but on dual port BMS boards (separate charging and discharging mosfets) there is no overcharge protection on the pack being charged from the discharge leads. This can present a safety risk if there is a cell anomaly in that pack.
Alternately, you can separate the batteries and charge each with its own charger and then connect them in parallel just for discharging. Just make sure that both packs are indeed fully charged, as you don’t want to connect them together when one pack is charged and the other is flat.
V or 48V?
We sell roughly equal numbers of 36V and 48V battery packs, and all of our conversion kits and controllers work fine with both 36V and 48V (or 52V) battery options. Just because 48V is a larger number, it does not mean that a 48V ebike is intrinsically better / more powerful / faster than a 36V ebike despite what the ill-informed internet will lead you to believe. However, it is true that a given motor will spin faster at a higher voltage, and usually higher speeds will correspond to more power consumption. For most of the stock hub motor kits that we offer, a 36V battery will result in a commuting speed of 30-35 kph, while wth a 48V battery will result in closer to 40-45 kph.
If you are upgrading or replacing an existing battery pack, it is always safe to replace it with a battery that has the same nominal voltage. If you have a 36V ebike setup that is not from us, and are looking to ‘upgrade’ to a 48V/52V pack, more often than not you can do this without damaging the existing electronics. That is because most 36V motor controllers use 60V rated mosfets and 63V rated capacitors, and so even a fully charged 52V battery will not exceed these values.
Series Connecting for 72V?
It is also possible in principle to series connect two 36V batteries to make a 72V setup, but the only battery we have that is intrinsically designed for this is our LiGo modules. With all other batteries, it is essential to use a pass diode across the output of each battery so that when one BMS circuit trips it does not get exposed to a large negative voltage. We have a special series battery cable with this diode built in available here.
When you series connect batteries, you want to make sure they are packs with identical capacities and specs. You also want to make sure that either your controller or Cycle Analyst low voltage cutoff is set such that the discharge stops as soon as one pack trips. Otherwise continuous current will continue to flow through the pass diode when you are running off just the one non-tripped battery, causing the diode to overheat and fail.
Battery Connectors
We like to use Anderson Powerpole connectors as the standard discharge plug on all of our ebike battery packs. These connectors are ingenious since they are genderless, allowing you to use the same plug both on both a load and source, and the connector design allows them to withstand the arc of inrush current when plugged into capacitive loads much better than bullet style plugs. For the charging port, we like to use the female 3-pin XLR plug standard. This is directly compatible with the Satiator charger, and the quality Neutrik XLR plugs are rated for a full 15 amps per pin allowing very Rapid charging. Unfortunately, this option is not available for many of the downtube battery enclosures. Originally we used the very common but low current DC 5.5 x 2.1 mm barrel plug, but have since updated to using the 3 pin connector from ST which is safer, supports higher currents (8A is no problem) and has a 3rd pin for battery temperature sensing.
Battery Shipping
The shipping of lithium batteries is a complicated endeavor that frustrates the logistics of supplying and supporting ebike conversions kits. After numerous incidents of early lithium batteries either smoking or catching fire in transit, the transportation industry as whole recognized that lithium packs could not be handled casually like regular cargo and greatly stepped up the regulatory framework governing the shipping of lithium battery packs. These rules are constantly evolving, but generally ebike batteries are treated as Class 9 Dangerous Goods. In order to ship a lithium battery (whether by ground or by air) very strict packaging and labeling requirements must be followed, the battery must generally have UN38.3 test certification, and the person doing the packing and shipping has to be trained and certified in the handling and shipping of dangerous goods. When you order a battery from us, there is an automatic Dangerous Goods handling fee that is added to the order, and your battery pack is shipped separately from the rest of the kit as dangerous goods cargo. Many shipping companies do not offer dangerous goods services and we may change the courier selection to one that can deliver to your area.
Where to Order
If none of our own battery offerings meet your needs, we can also highly recommend the knowledgeable folks at Batteryspace.com and EM3EV as alternate suppliers of lithium battery packs in a wide range of capacities, form factors, and voltages.
Everything you need to know about e-bike batteries [from a battery engineer]
Would you be the person taking the stairs or the escalator?
I’ll be honest. barring the one-off day that I’m feeling particularly sprightly, I would just hop on the escalator with those 30 people on the right. And I’m willing to guess that most of you would too.
What we can gauge from this picture is that most people would rather do as little work as possible to get from point A to point B. This is especially true when it comes to commuting on a bike. The picture above is analogous to the difference between a regular bike and an e-bike.
Even if we address all the concerns when it comes to biking in a city (like safe biking infrastructure), we can’t expect to change fundamental human behavior. when given the option between less work or more work to achieve the same outcome, people will more likely choose to do less work.
Since getting my e-bike, I can comfortably bike from my home in Somerville to the Seaport district in Boston. a roughly 5-mile trip. in just about 20-minutes. All of a sudden, biking 5-miles is a piece of cake. I also don’t have to spend time sitting in traffic, waiting for public transit, or worry about showing up to a meeting looking like I swam across the Charles river to get there.
The beauty of an e-bike is that it makes cycling an inclusive mode of transportation because it doesn’t discriminate by age or physical ability.
When it comes to purchasing an e-bike though, there are a plethora of options for both the bike and battery. So how do you decide which one is best for your needs? As a battery engineer who has built hundreds of batteries and logged way too many hours soldering battery packs, here are my thoughts on the most commonly asked questions when it comes to e-bike batteries.
If you’re new to battery terminology, you might want to start here: Battery terms that every e-bike owner should know.
In this post, we’ll cover the following questions:
What is the best e-bike battery?
This is one of the hardest questions to answer. There are so many variables that go into what makes a good battery and what’s best for you, may not be the best for me. Even then, a good battery can perform poorly if it’s not cared for properly.
Battery packs are made up of individual battery “cells”. Cells are classified into cylindrical cells (like your AA and AAA) and prismatic cells (like the one in your phone). Each class of battery is manufactured in a variety of form-factors (in the battery world we use this term to mean size). The most commonly used form-factor of cells in an e-bike battery pack is the 18650.
A battery pack is only as good as it’s weakest cell.
When it comes to batteries, in my experience, there is a strong correlation between price and quality. I don’t follow this rule when it comes to most things like for example, box wine (I’m just saying, there are plenty of really good box wine options these days!). When it comes to batteries though, you really don’t want to be compromising on quality because you’ll eventually end up having to pay the price.
Here are some things to keep in mind when purchasing an e-bike:
Cell Manufacturers: Panasonic, LG, and Samsung have a good reputation in the battery industry for their high quality cells, so paying a premium for these cells is certainly worth it. If the e-bike you’re trying to buy doesn’t have or provide cell manufacturer information, they’re likely not going to be a reliable source anyway.
Cell Chemistry: Lithium-ion (li-ion) batteries are the best option for e-bikes. Although lead-acid batteries are significantly cheaper, they’re three times as heavy as their li-ion equivalents.
Li-ion has several variants of cell chemistry. The most popular ones for e-bikes are Nickel Manganese Cobalt (NMC), Lithium Cobalt Oxide (LCO), and Lithium Iron Phosphate (LFP). The metrics to look for when selecting a cell chemistry are:
- Specific Energy: has an impact on the range of your battery.
- Specific Power: how the battery handles high load scenarios like going up
- a hill.
- Safety: does the chemistry have a history of high in-field failures.
There are trade-offs when choosing one chemistry over another, but as we’ve shown in the image below, NMC and LFP are both great options that both offer the best value in terms of performance, price, and safety.
Picking the right battery chemistry has to do with figuring out what matters most to you. Do you want a battery that has a longer range (higher specific energy) but doesn’t have as much power? Or do you want a battery that has a more power (higher specific power) but may not last as long?
In my opinion, the best e-bike batteries are likely going to be made from cells manufactured by Panasonic, LG, or Samsung with either LFP or NMC cell chemistry.
What is the range of an e-bike battery?
The range of a battery pack depends on the amount of energy packed inside of it and is measured in Watt-Hours (Wh). Watt?
Watt-hours are calculated by multiplying the battery capacity, in Amp-hours, by the battery Voltage, in Volts.
Let’s assume that, on average, 1-mile requires about 25Wh of energy. So a 14Ah, 36V battery should get you about 25-miles per charge.
Keep in mind that the weight of the rider, outside temperature conditions, and the amount of pedaling will make a significant difference in range.
A word of caution: the range that e-bike manufacturers provide should be taken with a grain of salt. That number is generated from tests that are run in perfectly tailored lab conditions. Do you charge any of your electronics in an incubation chamber set at 28° C with a lab-grade charger that applies the perfect current while charging? Yeah, I don’t either. And so, We should assume that the manufacture-specified range is delivered only if the battery is charged and discharged under ideal conditions i.e. not real world conditions.
For a more realistic estimate, shave off 15% of the manufacturer specified range and assume this padded number to be your real range.
If you’re looking for a longer range, choose a battery that has higher capacity (Ah). If you’re looking for more power, choose a battery that has higher voltage (V). Learn more why voltage and capacity matter.
What is the lifespan of an e-bike battery?
There are several factors that affect the lifetime of a battery such as:
- environmental conditions: temperature during charging discharging
- charging rate: how fast or slow your battery is charged
- charging voltage: what voltage the battery is charged to
- depth of discharge (DoD): what voltage the battery is discharged to
The list above isn’t exhaustive but, in general, batteries decay as a function of time in the charged state. Period.
Day 1: You get your new e-bike and charge it up to 100% and go on a bike ride. When you come home, you charge the bike back up to 100% and you’re excited to ride it again soon.
Day 2. 364: Life get’s in the way and you still haven’t been out on your bike since that first ride.
Day 365: One year later, it’s the perfect day for a bike ride and you finally have some time on your hands. You head to your basement, unlock your bike, and excitedly turn it on. 80% charge. What? You clearly remember charging your bike to 100% last year before moving it to the basement!
The truth is, we can’t beat thermodynamics. I’ll say it again: batteries decay as a function of time in the charged state.
Now, because you left your battery at 100% for a whole year in a basement with no temperature control, you inadvertently caused your battery to lose a certain amount of irreversible capacity. Your range will be ~20% lower and you’ll likely have to replace your battery sooner than you expected. The table below shows you how much recoverable capacity exists in a battery after storing it at different temperatures and different charge states for 1-year.
This is why a lot of electronics come with batteries that are only partially charged. to help slow down this decay. That being said, it’s hard to track how long e-bikes and their batteries have been sitting in warehouses before being delivered to your door so you could get a battery that has been decaying for a year or two.
Manufacturers also tend to overrate their batteries and will make claims about certain batteries having a lifetime of at least 1,000 cycles. Show.me.the.data.
The lifetime of a lithium-ion battery is described as the number of cycles until the capacity (Ah) drops below 80% of it’s initial capacity. In general, this is roughly 250-400 cycles (depending on battery chemistry and other factors) which amounts to roughly 1.5 to 2 years if you charge discharge daily and care for your battery properly.
How to charge your e-bike battery to make it last longer
- The thing that will kill your battery faster than anything else is leaving it charged at elevated temperatures. If it’s 80 degrees outside and you have your e-bike fully charged, move it indoors where it’s cooler and try to drain the battery as soon as possible.
- Charge your battery at room temperature as often as possible.
- When sourcing an e-bike battery charger, the slower the charge rate the better. For example, if you have a 2-Amp charger, and your battery is a 14 Ah battery pack, you are charging at 14 Ah / 2-Amps = 7-hours. This is a nice, slow charge which will certainly improve the longevity of your battery pack. Avoid charging at rates that are faster than 2-hours for a full charge.
There’s a lot that goes into choosing the best battery for you e-bike, and there certainly isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach. But if I were buying an e-bike battery today, here’s what I’d do: LFP or NMC, slow charge, avoid storing or charging in hotter temperatures, and leave the battery at around 30% charge if you don’t plan on using it for a while.
Have questions? We’d love to help. You can get in touch using the contact form or find us on @somerville_ev
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