A Guide To Panasonic E-Bike Batteries. Electric cycle battery

A Guide To Panasonic E-Bike Batteries

When looking at electric bikes, there are two big features that stand out. the motor and the battery. Without them, it’s simply a standard two-wheel bicycle, so it’s important to make the right choice on both when thinking about purchasing an electric bike.

The motor affects how much power is delivered, however, the battery is the beating heart of the bike. Without a good battery, the motor can’t be used as long, which defeats the purpose of having a pedal-assist bike in the first place. If you are planning to cover long distances on your E-bike, then a long-life battery is essential.

Giant electric bikes use batteries from the biggest and the best battery manufacturer available – Panasonic. Thanks to our relationship with this world leader, our batteries are high quality and packed full of the best and most up-to-date technology.

In fact, Panasonic manufactures the complete battery, including the cells and the battery management system. They also assemble the final structure, so you know that with any Giant or Liv E-Bike you are getting a reliable and technologically advanced product made from the market leaders.

All the batteries are 36v Lithium-Ion batteries (commonly shortened to Li-ion) – more specifically, Lithium Cobalt Manganese batteries. This specific type of battery has the lowest discharge rate of all E-Bike batteries, which is an advantage when the bike isn’t being used.

How does this benefit you? Well, when you come to use it, there’s going to be more charge in it than another battery pack could offer. It also decreases wear and tear on the battery and extends it’s charging lifecycle.

Furthermore, Lithium Cobalt Manganese batteries have impressive charge cycles. they can comfortably be charged 1000 times – not something that can be said for other brands on the market.

Reaching 1000 charges isn’t a cut-off, as the battery will ‘step-down’ to a lower capacity. Once it’s reached a 1000 charges, it will go to 80% of full capacity for a further 800 charges, then up to 60% of full capacity for 600 charges and so on, so it can continue to be used for a long time.

Range

It’s important to know how the battery affects the range, as you need to make sure that the electric bike will meet your needs. The first thing to look at is the capacity of the battery itself.

We offer different battery capacities depending on the bike’s use; 300Wh, 375Wh, 400Wh, 500Wh 625Wh. Wh stands for ‘Watt Hour’, and the number can be compared to the size of a fuel tank in a car. A larger number gives the bike more fuel as the battery can hold more volume of charge.

Don’t be fooled into thinking it’s just a numbers game though. a higher number doesn’t always necessarily equal a longer range, as there are so many external factors to consider. Weight, riding conditions, terrain and plenty more will all have a big impact on the range of a battery.

The type of electric bike is also a factor. Electric mountain bikes will usually come with a large battery. most Giant E-mountain bikes will use at least a 500Wh battery, whereas a city bike might only come with a 300Wh battery as standard. However, a mountain bike battery has to power a much heavier load up and down steeper and slippier terrain, so the battery will drain quicker than a ride on a flat bike path where the motor is under less stress.

Also, purchasing an aftermarket battery is a great option to factor into your budget. if you have a big ride planned or decide to go away for the weekend without access to a power source, then having a fully charged backup ready to go is a lifesaver.

Charging

Charging one of our batteries couldn’t be easier. For a start, the batteries can be charged on or off the bike, giving flexibility depending on where it’s being stored. If you want to charge the battery off the bike, they are easily removable. Charge time varies depending on the size of the battery but for the biggest sized battery (625Wh) the charge from 0% to 100% is no longer than 4 hours.

An exciting new feature is called ‘Smart charging’. Compatible with Giant’s latest downtube EnergyPaks, the new Smart charger offers super-fast charging, providing more than 60 percent capacity within 90 minutes. This is an essential feature if you plan on tackling long days in the saddle and need to be able to juice the bike in a hurry.

The Smart charger doesn’t just offer quick charging. it helps extend battery life by ensuring that once a battery has been charged more than 500 cycles, it automatically drops to a lower voltage, so battery life is extended while the total charging time remains the same.

Through continuous communication between the charger and the induvial battery cells, the Smart charger is able to effectively manage the heat within the Downtube EnergyPak by shifting charge to different cells if certain cells become too hot.

The Smart charger can also be used with the 60% storage charge mode which allows for safer storage. We recommend that before long-term storage of the bike, the battery is charged to 60% and kept in the house at room temperature.

Giant’s electric bike batteries are always located and designed to optimise the experience for each specific style of riding – so whether the battery is mounted on the downtube (with top-pull, side-pull or down-pull options) or on the rear carrier, you know it’s in the best possible place for what you need to do.

The latest updated EnergyPak is mounted in the downtube and offers a more minimalist design than ever before. With an aluminium casing, a moulded protector along the bottom and a double lock feature, it’s designed to handle rough rides.

Service, Aftercare and Warranty

As long as they are stored correctly, E-bike batteries are pretty self-sufficient and shouldn’t need any further care or maintenance. Our batteries are fully cased and waterproof, however, avoid using a jetwash as they can force open gaps and let water seep in. In fact, we strongly recommend never using a jet wash on any part of an electric bike, just in case!

There are some actions we’d recommend you perform. firstly, to fully maximise the capacity of the battery, we suggest to run the battery flat at least once every 3 months. Another top tip, especially for us in the UK, is that riding in cold weather (below 5 degrees) has a negative impact on the capacity of all Lithium-Ion batteries. to avoid this, we recommend to store and charge the battery in the house at normal room temperature, then insert it into the bike just before you start your ride. This will stop the battery having a reduced capacity and gives you better range than you would have if the battery was stored in the freezing cold garage.

Don’t worry though, cold weather does no lasting damage to the battery at all. it has a temporary effect but it will go back to normal, so don’t worry if you forget!

If you ever encounter a problem with your E-bike, we’ve got you covered. Every Giant E-bike retailer has access to a service tool that can communicate with the battery management software within the battery itself.

This tool can identify any issues within minutes, therefore, if there’s ever an issue with the battery system, it can easily be diagnosed without any complex mechanic work required. E-bikes come with a 2-year warranty on all the electrical parts, including the battery, which offers added peace of mind.

You can keep up-to-date with all the latest Giant news by following us on Instagram @GiantUK, follow us on @GiantUK or like us on We also have a newsletter, packed with news, reviews and special offers, and you can sign up here.

E-Bike Batteries: Volts, Amps, Watt Hours Explained

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What Are These Volts, Amps, and Watt-Hours? How Battery Specifications and Capacity Equate to Capability and Cost

Understanding e-bike batteries can be challenging, even for those of us in the know; the nitty-gritty details are figured out by electrical engineers with years of education and experience under their collective belts – and for good reason, it’s all chemistry and math over there!

You’ll encounter a host of terms when reading about e-bikes or looking at electric bike battery specifications: things like battery size, capacity, voltage, amp hours and watt hours. Some of these words are more-or-less interchangeable, others are related but distinct. All of them can be confusing, but they are also hugely important in understanding electric bikes and their capabilities – most notably when trying to interpret how far they can take you before needing to be recharged.

In this guide to e-bike batteries, the helpful writers at Electric Bike Report will help you to understand the meaning of common battery terms and their relation to the performance of the electric bikes they power.

E-Bike Batteries Explained

Batteries are one of the core elements of electric bikes. They are needed to supply power to the motor, which in turn provides assistance to the rider, and reduces the amount of human effort needed to move the bike.

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E-bike batteries come in various sizes, and can be mounted to the frame in different ways. Some are fully internal, and are sealed inside the bike’s frame. As such, they are not removable, except by using special methods and tools available to professional technicians. Others are removable for easier charging and replacement, whether mounted completely externally (outside the frame), partially recessed (sunken into the frame to some degree), or completely recessed (sunken entirely and nearly invisible on the bike).

Regardless of their type, all e-bike batteries are actually battery packs, and are made up of groups of cells, similar to the standard AA or AAA batteries used in everyday applications. The number of cells and the method used to cluster them together determines how quickly they can provide power and how long they can continue to supply it.

In contrast to standard AA or AAA batteries, however, those used in e-bikes are most commonly rechargeable lithium-ion batteries similar to those used inside smartphones and in conjunction with cordless power tools. Lithium-ion batteries are efficient and can be recharged hundreds or even thousands of times if cared for properly. The Light Electric Vehicle Association, or LEVA, has a great article that they allowed us to re-publish regarding proper battery care and safety to ensure maximum life span.

Fully integrated batteries such as the one on the Velotric Nomad 1 can match the bike’s color and disappear into the frame.

Electric Bike Battery Terms and Definitions

Before we dive deeper into the details, let’s consider a couple of examples of e-bike battery specifications in relation to how they usually appear:

V = Volts and Ah = Amp-hours

V = Volts and Wh = Watt-hours

Both examples convey two basic measurements, albeit a little differently. In both examples, we see volts first; this measurement relates to the availability of the electrical energy the battery can deliver. Next, either amp-hours or watt-hours are shown; these represent a battery’s capacity, or the amount of power it can store.

Let’s define these words (and a few helpful additional terms) a bit more clearly:

Current: the flow of electricity, or transfer of electrons, through a circuit.

Circuit: a closed system of wires and electrical components through which current can travel.

Volts (V): the amount of electrical force or pressure the battery can produce; the speed of the battery’s output of current. This is also sometimes referred to as the electromotive force, and is more specifically the speed at which electrons move through the system.

Note that this is a nominal rating that is used for classification purposes. In reality, a battery’s voltage varies based on the amount of power being drawn from it at a given moment, as well as the battery’s present level of charge. As current is drawn from the battery, its voltage decreases. This can be seen in an e-bike battery voltage chart.

Voltage is determined by the number of battery cells arranged “in series”.

Amps or amperes (A): a measurement of the strength of the battery’s output, or current. specifically, the volume of electrons passing through the system. This is limited by the size of the wires making up the system. Larger wires allow more current, smaller wires allow less. Generally, systems with higher voltage should use smaller wires (that limit amperage) to prevent overheating.

Amps can also be thought of as the amount of energy being drawn from the battery by what it is powering, and can fluctuate from moment to moment. In the case of e-bike batteries and their motors, a greater number of amps are drawn as the motor works harder (i.e. going uphill or using only the throttle).

Amp-hours (Ah): a measurement of charge; the amount of energy that can be delivered through an electrical system over the course of an hour.

In the case of a 10 Ah battery, it can deliver 10 amps of power in one hour, or 1 amp of power for 10 hours, etc, depending on the needs of the component that is delivering power to.

Amp-hours are determined by the number of clusters of battery cells arranged “in parallel”.

Watts (W): a unit of power, determined by volts and amps; the amount of work that can be done by one amp of current delivered at 1 volt. The amount of work is determined by the rate at which the energy is used.

This measurement is generally applied only to an e-bike’s motor, but its battery must support the motor’s needs.

Watt-hours (Wh): another measurement of capacity. In this case, the amount of work that can be done, or the amount of power that is spent, over the course of an hour. This is a direct result of a battery’s voltage multiplied by its amp-hours.

As such, a 24V, 20 Ah battery and a 48V, 10 Ah battery might look different on paper, but they have about the same amount of energy. This makes watt-hours a more reliable indicator of capacity when comparing different batteries.

Controller: A device that limits the flow of electricity through a circuit, and prevents a battery from discharging its energy all at once. In terms of an electric bike, this is the “brain” that adjusts the pedal assist system, the amount of input the motor contributes, and the e-bike’s speed.

Electric Bike Batteries

The batteries are arguably the most important aspect of any electric bike. The kicker is that many electric bike manufacturers don’t give you the full information you need to truly understand what you’re purchasing. We’re offering this information so that you can know what you’re getting into before you buy because the batteries are going to affect your range, your power, your ability to climb hills and mountains, your charging time and the overall weight of the bike. Let’s dive in!

Battery Capacity

If you’re shopping for an electric bike, battery capacity is your new best friend. Truly, this is going to determine a TON about how much you enjoy your new ride. So grab that pen and paper, roll up your sleeves and get ready to be a battery capacity wizard.

Really, battery capacity is simple, so long as you have one formula. Here it is:

Wh = V x Ah (Watt-hours = Volts multiplied by Amp-Hours)

Watt-hours tell the full story of how much energy your battery can store. watt hours means you can go further per charge.

As your battery gets larger, it of course becomes heavier and more expensive. The goal for any electric vehicle is to maximize onboard energy (watt-hours) and minimize cost and weight.

Battery Lifespan

Lithium batteries have a significantly longer lifespan than older lead-acid and nickel-based batteries. In the state of the electric bike industry, it’s more likely that a limited lithium battery lifespan is not due to a short cycle life, but is instead caused by a complete battery failure due to poor quality control in the manufacturing process. So, above all, be sure that you’re buying a bike that’s equipped with a high-quality battery. Just because it’s lithium, doesn’t mean it’s high-quality.

The battery’s lifespan is rated in cycles. One full cycle is a complete discharge and recharge of a battery. A half cycle is a half discharge and recharge. Cycles, however, only tell part of the story. Let’s take a bit deeper look at how we can best estimate and maximize a battery’s lifespan.

First, it’s important to note that if a battery is rated for 1000 cycles, it’s not going to fall dead on its face when it hits that 1000th cycle. Most manufacturers rate their batteries to 80% of their initial capacity. For instance, if the battery is rated for 1000 watt-hours when it’s new, its total stored energy will slowly degrade over time, and on its 1000th cycle, it should have around 800 watt hours of capacity (80% of the energy it had when new). It’s still perfectly fine and safe to use the battery past the 1000th cycle, this rating just sets an expectation for the aging of your battery.

As hinted at earlier, cycles only tell half of the story. The other important half is the overall range of your battery. Let’s take a look at an example:

1000 cycles and 30 miles of range, expected miles to 80%: 30,000 miles

700 cycles and 100 miles of range, expected miles to 80%: 70,000 miles

As you can see from the example above, although Bike A has a battery that lasts for more cycles, Bike B will travel over twice the mileage before the battery begins showing its age. This is another reason why a larger battery is a big advantage on any electric vehicle.

The enemy of a long life for your battery is heat. Store your bike in a cool place whenever possible, and on lower performance batteries, it’s a good practice to not charge immediately after your ride, but to let your batteries have a bit of time to cool down before charging.

Battery Types

Lithium Ion

Lithium Ion is a general term for a battery that uses lithium in its chemistry. The actual chemical composition, more specifically, can be broken into three categories in regard to its use in electric bikes.

This is often abbreviated as LiPo (pronounced “lie-poh”). This is the most power dense battery, and also has the unique characteristic of being able to manipulate it’s form. Because of these two characteristics it is found in almost every cell phone, laptop etc. This is the battery used in both the Alpha and Horizon.

This is often abbreviated as Li-Mn.

This is often abbreviated as LiFe or LiFePO4.

Similarly to Nickel Cadmium, they don’t perform especially well in regard to Rapid discharge. They don’t carry the same “memory” characteristics as Nickel Cadmium, but given the lithium alternatives, you’re most likely better off going for a more power dense lithium battery.

This is often abbreviated as NiCad. These guys aren’t really well suited for electric bikes because their chemistry doesn’t allow for Rapid discharge. You’ve probably hear of battery “memory”. That doesn’t apply to most batteries, but it does apply to Nickel Cadmium, which means that you would want to fully charge and fully discharge them every time, which doesn’t really make a ton of sense for an electric bike application. The last nail in the coffin for these guys is that they’re pretty toxic at the end of their lifecycle and most landfills won’t even take them. Bottom line. you pretty much don’t want to use them.

Lead acid batteries are comparatively heavy to the other batteries listed here. Another way to say this is that they are not as “power dense”, meaning that for a given weight and volume, they have less power than batteries of other chemistry’s. This is the same type of battery that you would find in most cars. Because of that, they are widely available, however they would not be the ideal choice for an electric bike. Despite this, they are still frequently used in many Asian countries for electric bikes. Another point to note with Lead Acid batteries is that they “sag” significantly under load. In other words, if you suddenly nail the throttle the voltage is going to momentarily drop significantly.

Battery technology is become increasingly wide-spread thanks to consumer electronics such as phones and computers that demand lightweight powerful batteries. This is resulting in serious amounts of cash being put into Research and Development to improve the technology, the manufacturing process, and also reduce the cost by increasing the quantity. Several times a year we’ll hear about the latest “breakthrough” in battery technology. Be discerning if you come across articles that claim things like this. Don’t get me wrong, we’re all about innovation in regard to batteries, but you have to keep in mind that lab tests are not equivalent to real world testing, and that it takes time for any new technology to make it from a prototype to a consumer. We keep a close eye on this industry constantly, and we’ll update this page with any new applicable battery as it becomes available.

Click the links below to learn more:

Guide to e-cycle batteries

On new or recent e-bikes you invariably get some kind of lithium-ion battery. Older second-hand e-bikes may have other chemistries; the earliest e-bikes featured very heavy lead acid batteries.

Then came nickel-cadmium and nickel-metal hydride, both of which were lighter and can still be found to retain a useful amount of capacity for shorter runs – perhaps useful if you are looking for a cheap and cheerful second-hand ‘hack’ e-bike. Giant’s Lafree model and some Heinzman kits were highly regarded at the time and still turn up second hand with these nickel-based batteries.

However, despite the extra expense and complexity, a good-quality, decent-capacity lithium-ion battery is undoubtedly the most practical option. It will give you the best range, reliability and longevity.

You might read all kinds of claims for different variations of lithium-ion e-bike battery, with cobalt, manganese and more included in the mix. Don’t worry! There doesn’t seem to be any great expert agreement on which of these formulas is superior.

For now it’s more important to get a well-made, high-quality lithium-ion battery, regardless of the chemistry used. In practice this means batteries with cells – cells are the individual components of batteries – from reputable makers like Sony, Panasonic and Samsung.

Equally important is to buy an e-cycle with a high-quality electric drive system as this helps ensure the batteries have been assembled to a high standards. Well-known drive-system makers include Bosch, Brose, Fazua, Mahle, Shimano and Yamaha. All these manufacturers keep close control of the batteries used in their systems – in the vast majority of cases they will be own-brand batteries.

Guarantee small print

Remember to check out the particular terms of the battery guarantee.

Shimano’s e-bike batteries (select the battery capacity section) are guaranteed by charge cycles (full charges, so two charges of half the battery capacity would equal one full one) – at least 60% of capacity is guaranteed to remain after 1000 full charge cycles. Riese Muller guarantees that the Bosch batteries it uses will still have a capacity of 60% after two years or 500 charge cycles, depending on which happens first.

Your dealer should be able to determine the remaining battery capacity for you. Note that a good quality battery is still able to be used at below 60% capacity – probably for a good few years, it is just out of warranty.

For a very approximate idea of your e-bike battery capacity you can try the home test method.

Rear rack, frame-integrated or frame mounted?

There are three common mounting positions: rear rack, on top of the downtube or totally integrated into the frame.

The first option is OK for lighter batteries on lightly loaded bikes intended for more gentle riding and also causes fewer problems on e-bikes with smaller wheels, as the weight of the battery sits nearer the ground. If ridden heavily loaded the extra weight at the top and rear of the bike can start to affect handling, though.

Rack-mounted batteries are found on some good-quality budget e-bikes, however, and shouldn’t be discounted. Gazelle’s Paris C7 HMB is one good example.

Downtube-mounted batteries are still very common, but are slowly being overtaken by frame-integrated batteries. It’s somewhat ‘horses for courses’ which of these options you might choose.

Those mounted on top of the downtube can be less fiddly to get on and off the bike, but integrating the battery into the frame gives more protection from knocks and looks more aesthetically pleasing to many. Downtube-mounted and frame-integrated give better handling than rack-mounted batteries as the weight is kept low and central.

The tide certainly seems to be moving in favour of frame-integrated batteries, with many budget brands and online discount sites even selling such models, where once upon a time they were only to be found on premium-priced e-cycles.

What capacity do you need?

As a general rule it’s best to get the largest and best quality you can, as this will mean an easier life for your battery (fewer charge cycles) and also more range per charge.

Battery capacity is measured in Watt-hours (Wh) and 400Wh, 500Wh and 625Wh are fast becoming standard sizes. In 2022 Bosch announced its biggest battery yet: a 750Wh frame integrated model to be used only with its new ‘Smart’ system. Note that this battery is not backwards compatible, even though many earlier batteries were interchangeable.

You might want to go small, though. For example, on an extremely lightweight efficient e-cycle or a folding bike that needs regular lifting, to keep the purchase price down or if you simply know you’ll only be making short trips. The Cytronex C1 system is a good example of a lightweight, efficient system that can achieve impressive ranges on lightweight e-bikes from its modest 198Wh battery.

E-folders often use smaller batteries to keep overall weight down and keep them portable. The new Brompton Electric is actually one of the larger batteries found on a folder at 300Wh and neatly removes in a jiffy to help carrying.

Conversely, if you are after maximum distance on a single charge there are dual battery systems out there that mean you don’t even have to swap batteries. Bosch’s own dual battery system gives up to a massive 1250Wh capacity – enough to ride all day on high power settings – and it automatically draws power from both batteries at an even rate, the optimum method for giving your batteries an easy life.

A handful of brands have developed ‘range-extender’ batteries – smaller batteries that clip onto the bike frame ready to feed their power to the motor. Specialized has been using such a system for a few years on its lighter e-bikes, the Turbo SL range.

How many miles will I get from my battery?

How long is a piece of string? A very rough rule of thumb is to divide the Wh capacity of a battery by 15 to give a very rough estimate of the range (for example, giving an estimate of around 33 miles from a 500Wh battery).

Actual range depends on power level selected, rider weight, terrain and weather and can vary massively. Bosch’s Range Assistant is a useful guide to likely range as it lets you estimate the effect of various factors on range, though I have always found it a little on the optimistic side.

You can get many times more mileage than you might expect. For example, Cytronex has reports of fit road riders using their system and getting 50 miles plus to a charge on a 180Wh battery – less than half the capacity of many standard size batteries.

Conversely, an e-MTB ridden on high power settings over very challenging off-road terrain with a heavy rider could easily return a range of fewer than 20 miles on a complete charge of an average-capacity battery.

Tips for extending battery range include conservative use of the power settings and using the gears to keep the pedals spinning at a fairly fast cadence, as well as moderating your speed. Riding at 13mph instead of the max assisted speed of 15.5mph will usually save a good amount of battery capacity.

How to look after and store lithium ion batteries

There are a few basic but important tips you can follow in order to keep your battery in tip top condition:

  • Batteries have an optimum operating temperature – around room temperature. So charge and store the battery indoors in very cold or hot weather; avoid keeping them in direct sunlight.
  • If you are riding all year round and often in sub-zero temperatures it could be worth getting a battery cover. Fahrer makes a variety of covers from neoprene and cordura.
  • All batteries will be damaged if persistently over-charged or over-discharged. Use the correct charger for your battery; in particular never use one that wasn’t specifically made for your battery. If you buy a good-quality e-cycle in the first place they are more likely to have reliable battery management system (BMS) units in the battery which also helps prevent over-charging and.discharging.
  • Don’t leave a lithium battery connected after it has achieved full charge.
  • Be wary of cheaper batteries with suspiciously high claims for battery life and the number of charge cycles they will last – it may have been set close to the limits for under and over charging which could lead to premature failure.
  • Avoid vibration and shock to a battery through rough handling or careless treatment as this can lead to a shortened life, too.
  • Try to avoid long periods of storage as lithium batteries degrade slowly; but surely over time, whether used or not. If you do need to store one for a period of months, check what the maker’s recommended discharged state is for storage. For example, Bosch says that a charge status of approximately 30-60% of full charge is recommended for its batteries and that they are ready for use when they come out of storage.

End of life

Good-quality batteries are now more reliable than they have ever been. But even the best ones suffer a gradual decline in capacity over the years and so the range may eventually diminish to the point where it is unusable.

There three broad options if you need to replace a battery:

  • Replace under guarantee. This only really covers the situation if a fault develops – a good-quality lithium ion battery should last more than a couple of years if used properly, two years being an industry standard for a reasonable length battery guarantee.
  • Replace by purchasing a new one. If a battery is out of guarantee and at the end of its life then the industry advice is to replace it with one that comes from the same manufacturer and is of exactly the same spec. This is because battery, controller and motor have all been designed to work safely together and using a ‘non-original’ replacement pack introduces the potential for things not working as they should. Unfortunately, there are no common interconnectivity standards across the e-bike battery industry, with a multiplicity of computer chips and connectors used. One upside of total replacement is that you may have the option to upgrade to a larger-capacity battery from the same manufacturer.
  • While option 2 may be the ideal and is certainly the ‘official’ advice, there are an increasing number of e-bikes around that are many years old and for which the original battery is no longer made. There may be third-party batteries available for the commoner makes of e-cycle battery that you could buy off the shelf.

Recelling by an expert company may be an option. This is certainly the case in continental Europe where e-bike use dwarves that in the UK and where e-bikes have been around in large numbers for much longer, giving rise to a second-hand battery industry where a number of expert companies can supply replacement batteries or recell your old one.

In the UK the industry is younger and there are less expert companies around. They do exist, though, and London’s eBike Batteries often gets good feedback.

However, official industry advice is not to go down this route: non-expert, incorrect recelling or repair of a battery is most certainly a fire safety risk. However, there will be an increasing need for this service as the number of second-hand e-cycles whose original batteries are no longer made will increase dramatically over coming years and replacement batteries will be needed to avoid scrapping an otherwise perfectly good e-bike.

These are the longest-range electric bicycles money can buy right now

Some things in the universe are constant. Gravity, the slow march of time, and the same three questions that every new electric bike owner will get from friends, family, and strangers. Those questions are always “How fast is it?,” “Does it pedal when you charge it?,” and the most difficult of all to answer, “How far does it go?”

The range that any e-bike gets is a tricky question to answer because it depends on how the e-bike is used. Two e-bikes with the same size batteries could get very different ranges depending on whether the rider is pegging the throttle or taking a chill ride on low-power pedal assist.

It’s like how if I gave you a food allowance of 100 and asked how long you could survive, the answer would be different depending on if you ate at Red Lobster or sustained yourself on ramen and tap water.

In the same way that it’s better to judge that question by your food budget and not how you spend it, it’s easier to compare long-range e-bikes based on their battery capacity (measured in watt hours or Wh) than by the manufacturer’s stated maximum range.

So with that in mind, let’s take a look at the longest-range electric bicycles on the market today, judged not just on their stated maximum ranges, but also on their battery sizes.

FUELL Flluid 2

Motorcycle legend Erik Buell’s electric bicycle brand FUELL just launched two new electric bikes, with one of them being referred to by the company as the “World’s longest range electric bike.”

The Flluid-2 is described as an “ultra-long-range powerhouse” with its two removable battery packs totaling 2 kWh of capacity. That doubles the battery capacity of the first-generation FUELL Flluid-1 and enables an impressive range of up to 225 Mi (362 km) on a single charge.

The company also released an easier-to-mount step-through option known as the Flluid-3. That bike offers a single 1 kWh battery that should be enough for anyone that can live with a still-impressive 110 Mi (177 km) range. But for those seeking serious range, it’s the Flluid-2’s dual 1 kWh batteries that are worth taking a second look at.

Both models offer throttle-enabled 750 W continuous-rated Valeo mid-drive motors, though the throttle is limited to just 6 km/h or 3.7 mph in Europe for regulatory compliance. The motor will also carry a 250 W rating in Europe, though both the EU and US versions are listed at 130 Nm of torque, making the motor one of the strongest mid-drives available on retail e-bikes.

Optibike R22 Everest

Colorado-based Optibike is one of the oldest electric bicycle companies in the United States, and so they know a thing or two about building high-performance e-bikes. But the company’s Optibike R22 Everest seems to step it up several notches with an e-bike that supposedly can climb Mount Everest on a single charge thanks to its massive battery pack.

Just how much battery does an R22 pack into its carbon fiber frame? There’s an impressive 3,260 Wh of lithium-ion cells stuffed into the bike. The battery is designed in two packs that are removable from either side of the frame.

To put that in comparison, 3.26 kWh of battery is more than 6x the capacity of a common low-cost electric bicycle in the US.

Of course, the 18,900 R22 Everest also costs around 27x the price of that 799 low cost e-bike, so I’m not sure these things track linearly. But if your goal is to climb up Mount Everest on an e-bike, price probably isn’t your first concern. If it were me, riding across those ladders might be higher on my “big worries” list.

Watt Wagons HOUND

Watt Wagons, a US-based manufacturer of high-power and high-end electric bicycles, has a new model designed for serious off-roaders and adventurers. In fact, the Watt Wagon HOUND has several keys specs that sound almost foreign in the electric bicycle industry, such as a 200-mile range and built-in chargers compatible with electric car charging stations.

The Watt Wagon HOUND is actually available in two models, the base model and the “Supercharged” model. It’s the Supercharged model that you’ll want for the extra-long range.

While the base level HOUND has a respectable 52V 17Ah battery with 884 Wh of capacity for a real-world throttle range of 30 miles (51 km) and a pedal assist range of 80 miles (130 km), according to the company, the Supercharged model more than triples the battery capacity.

The massive battery on the higher-spec model is a gargantuan 52V 60Ah pack with 3,210 Wh of capacity. The company claims you’ll get 100 solid miles (160 km) on throttle-only riding or 200 miles (320 km) on pedal assist.

And not only do you get a massive battery, but you also get both a 52V 5A fast charger and an EV charger with a J1772 connector, giving you multiple options for quickly recharging that big battery. Not too shabby!

EUNORAU Flash

Some companies like Watt Wagons above use a single massive battery to create long-range e-bikes. Other companies simply slap on more and more individual batteries to reach higher total capacities. The EUNORAU Flash offers up to three batteries for riders that want the ultimate in long-range possibilities.

With its three large batteries, EUNORAU claims that this electric bike can have you cruising for up to 220 miles (354 km) on a single charge.

Fully maxed out, that means riders can have up to 2,808 Wh of total battery capacity across the three packs.

They leave the bike looking a bit overladen, but it’s an effective way to increase the bike’s range!

Juiced HyperScrambler 2

The Juiced HyperScrambler 2 is on its way to being sunsetted after a trademark dispute, but it is expected to be replaced by a similarly specced bike under a new name. And if the specs remain the same, that means it will come with the same pair of 52V 19.2Ah batteries for close to 2,000 Wh of total capacity.

The bike has a number of other impressive specs, too. It features a 1,000W Retroblade motor with a peak power output of 2,000W and a maximum speed (in unlocked mode) of a published “30 mph.” The true top speed has been shown by numerous riders to actually reach closer to 35 mph (56 km/h).

The HyperScrambler 2’s pair of high-capacity batteries are still one of its biggest claims to fame, ensuring that the power-hungry motor and controller can go the distance. In fact, that distance is listed as 100 miles (160 kilometers) of range per charge.

Even just one of the 52V 19.2Ah batteries on the HyperScrambler 2 offers more capacity than most other e-bikes, coming in at 998 Wh per battery. But the pair of them pushing close to 2,000 Wh is one of the highest-capacity battery load outs we’ve ever seen on a moped-style electric bike.

Electric Bike Company Model J

The Newport Beach, California-based Electric Bike Company recently launched its newest e-bike, the Model J. Not only did the launch reveal some impressive specs and massive battery capacity, but the introductory pricing bordered on unbelievable.

The Model J rolled out with an MSRP of 1,499 and an even more impressive pre-order price of just 1,199, though with a five- to six-week wait for delivery. Even without the promotion, 1,499 is a very fair price. But at 1,199, that makes this bike a steal.

That’s especially true when you consider how customizable the bike is, offering dozens of custom paint colors and thousands of color combinations, not to mention the three 48V batteries options to choose from: 14Ah (672Wh), 28Ah (1,344Wh), and 42Ah (2,016Wh). Those three batteries options offer maximum ranges on pedal assist of 65 miles (104 km), 130 miles (208 km), and 195 miles (314 km). All of the batteries even come with a five-year warranty, which is one of the longest battery warranties we’ve ever seen in the e-bike industry.

We’re excited to test a Model J soon and see if the awesome design and specs look and feel as good in real life as they appear on paper.

long-range e-bikes on the horizon?

These are some of the longest-range electric bikes we’ve seen anywhere, but that doesn’t mean that e-bike companies have stopped innovating.

We fully expect to see even longer-range models with even higher capacity cropping up in the coming months and years.

How far can the industry go? If these models are any indication, the sky is the limit!

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