170 Best Electric Bikes. Throttle only electric bike

Understanding Electric Bikes: Throttle and Pedal-Assist

If you’re new to the world of electric bikes, also called e-bikes, then you’ve probably got a few questions regarding how electric bikes operate. Electric bikes offer you options in bicycles that have an electrically powered assistance device built into them. You can typically adjust the amount of power you get on the fly when using an e-bike, usually between a low “economy” setting and up to a “turbo” setting, also sometimes called a “sport” setting.

Do electric bikes have a throttle? Some electric bikes come with a throttle, but not all electric bikes have throttles. Many e-bikes are considered pedal-assist bikes, meaning you’ll get an extra kick of power only when you are pedaling. However, some e-bikes do also come with a throttle, which offers you an extra boost with the simple push of a button and when you aren’t pedaling.

Depending on the e-bike you decide to purchase, you can buy an e-bike that offers you pedal assist options, a throttle, or both. Since there isn’t a lot of information available on the Internet today covering whether or not e-bikes have a throttle, we created this article to help break down the differences between pedal-assist e-bikes, and e-bikes that offer throttles. After we cover that information, we’ll discuss the one other items you’ll want to know about before you purchase an e-bike, the motor.

What Is a Pedal-Assist E-Bike?

Most e-bikes come designed as pedal-assist e-bikes. So, what exactly does that mean? While there are minor differences between different motor manufacturers, all pedal-assist e-bikes work similarly.

If you purchase a pedal-assist e-bike, you’ll wind up with a bike that activates its extra boost when you are pedaling. Once you start pedaling from a stop, you’ll feel the e-bike’s motor kick in and activate.

The Boost

Many people enjoy pedal-assist bikes because the extra boost of power you’ll get with a pedal-assist e-bike helps you overcome the inertia when you are first hitting the streets.

Most e-bikes have a switch on one of the handle grips that controls the amount of power with a /- switch. When you are first getting used to using pedal-assist, most manufacturers suggest you should begin on a lower setting until you get used to the thrust.

With a pedal-assist e-bike, you can also modify how much of a boost you’re getting from the motor. You can opt for almost nothing and go all the way up to the motor’s full power, which averages around 250w or 350w. Most people that are recreational cyclists use 250w of power. A 350w is usually more for those riding at the professional level.

Power Setting and Range

When using a pedal-assist e-bike, you’ll typically discover that the higher the power setting is, the less range you’ll get with your bike.

A few pedal-assist e-bike models have mileage ranges on their screen, and some of them can adjust this range as you decide on the power setting. Depending on the e-bike, the power setting, and the distance you are traveling, how far you’ll be able to get can very.

However, you can usually get twenty to forty miles out of your bike before you’ll have to recharge your battery. Many models of pedal-assist e-bikes offer several different levels of assistance. Settings are usually named things like low, medium, and high. However, there are some e-bikes that have up to five pedal assist settings.

There are a few different types of throttles you’ll find on different types of electric bikes. Here is a breakdown of the four most common types of e-bike throttles:

Some bikes, like the eFlow E3 Nitro electric bike, use what is known as a half grip twist throttle. You utilize this throttle by twisting it, much like you would on a motorcycle or scooter. This throttle is the most typical kind of e-bike throttle you’ll find on the market today.
Other bikes, like the Prodeco Outlaw SS electric mountain bike, use what is known as a thumb throttle. You’d use this throttle by pushing the paddle on the throttle forward with your thumb to engage the electric boost.
There is another form of thumb throttle out there, as well. Bikes like the BionX system and the OHM XS750 electric bike use a different type of thumb throttle. On these types of bikes, you have a red button; you move forward with your thumb to engage the motor.
The last kind of throttle you’ll find is a push-button throttle. Bikes like the Clean Republic Hill Topper electric bike kit use this feature. This throttle works like an on and off switch. Unfortunately, with this type of accelerator, you can’t adjust your power level.

Combination Bikes

If you are the type of person that would prefer the best of both worlds, then know that some e-bikes offer both a throttle and the pedal-assist mode.

These types of bikes allow you to use the pedal-assist mode when you want but also provide you with a helpful boost via the throttle. While you won’t be able to use both methods at the same time, having both modes can be extremely beneficial when out on the road.

Now that we’ve covered the types of throttles you’ll find in e-bikes as well as the different types of e-bikes you can purchase, we’ll cover one other vital part on an e-bike that you’ll want to take a close look at before you buy an e-bike: the motor. We’ll start by covering types of e-bike motors.

Types of E-Bike Motors

Now that you know a little bit about the different types of e-bikes and you’ve got enough information to assess the kind of throttle you’ll want, you’ll also need to take a close look at the motor and the battery. We’ll start by discussing types of e-bike motors here.

After all, if you want an e-bike with a powerful throttle on it, the first thing you’re going to want to take a close look at is the motor. So, when researching throttles and e-bikes, here is what you’ll need to know about engines.

Front Hub Motor

The most uncomplicated e-bike design features the front hub motor. That also means this type of e-bike is the most limited in capability as well. Most front hub motors only work well on e-bikes that include throttle systems.

That’s because it’s more challenging to offer assistance based on the rider when your engine isn’t featured on your drivetrain. There are a few exceptions to this rule, like Brompton’s folding e-bike. Brompton’s folding e-bike offers a front hub motor that uses pedal assist and not a throttle.

However, e-bikes that use front hub motors can run into problems with traction. That’s because most of the bike’s weight is over the rear wheel, creating a consistently off-balance system.

Also, it can be challenging to accelerate efficiently when your drive unit is located on your front wheel. Since front hub motors are usually limited, they aren’t prevalent as e-bike systems. You’ll often find these on cheap conversion kits since they are great for converting just about any bike.

Pros of Front Hub Motor

With a front-mounted hub motor, you’ll wind up putting less stress on the rear axle. That makes it easier to have a mounting bike for a trailer on your bike if you wish.
If the chain on this type of e-bike breaks, you’ll be able to use still the motor accessing the cadence sensor or your throttle.

Cons of Front Hub Motor

Most front forks aren’t made to handle the stress of an e-bike motor.
Mounting a motor on the front of your e-bike means more weight will be in the front, making the bike feel heavy and creating more difficulty when you steer.
You won’t be able to ride over bumps comfortably or pop curbs if you’ve got the extra weight of a front-mounted motor on your bike.
With a front-mounted motor, it’s much more challenging to take off your bike’s front wheel because of the extra weight and the inability to use a quick release.
You won’t be able to add torque arms easily to the front fork.

Rear Hub Motor

If you opt for an e-bike with a rear hub motor, then you’ll be able to purchase an e-bike that’s either got a throttle or is a pedal-assist e-bike. You may even be able to get a hybrid bike that has both types of systems, which you can switch between as you see fit.

Rear hub motors can also be retro-fitted to non-folding bikes, making them extremely popular for electric bike conversions.

Rear hub motors are also prevalent because they are cheap to make and even more aesthetically pleasing than a front hub motor. A rear hub motor looks more like an oversized standard bike hub than an engine, melting quickly into the bike by appearance.

However, there are some disadvantages to owning an e-bike with a rear hub motor. E-bikes with rear hub motors make an uneven weight distribution because of the engine being in the rear wheel. That means the location of the motor on rear hub motor e-bikes can also affect the steering, control, and handling of the bike.

Pros of Rear Hub Motor

Rear hub motors do a great job of handling extra weight from the components of the engine when you compare them to the front-mounted motor.
Rear hub motors also have another advantage over front-mounted engines because rear hub motors don’t but extra stress on the front fork, balancing the bike out a bit better.

Cons of Rear Hub Motor

With a rear hub motor, you won’t be able to mount a trailer to your axle. The existence of the motor cable and other motor mounting hardware on the back of the e-bike will make it difficult, if not impossible, to have a bike trailer.

Mid-Drive Motor

Another option you’ll have in e-bike motors is the mid-drive motor. With a mid-drive engine, you’ll find the motor in the middle of your bike frame, and it would be combined with your bottom bracket and cranks.

Mid-drive motors don’t typically come with throttles. That’s because the bike’s engine is activated by pedaling, so e-bikes with mid-drive motors are usually pedal-assist bikes.

There are several advantages to owning an e-bike with a mid-drive motor when compared to a hub motor. So, many manufacturers of pedal-assist bikes prefer using the mid-drive engine with their bikes. You’ll get a lot more torque with a mid-drive motor when compared to a hub motor that offers similar power.

Also, since a mid-drive engine would be located in the center of the e-bike, the weight of the bike is much more balanced when you ride.

You’ll also get a better range of gears on an e-bike that has a mid-drive motor because, with a mid-drive engine, the motor drives the crank arms instead of relying on a wheel. With a mid-drive motor, it is also much easier to install a torque sensor because you’ll be able to measure the amount of input from the rider then.

Using a sensor like this means you can match the amount of assistance you’ll need automatically and vary it to match the intensity of your pedaling. By being able to measure input from the rider on a bike with a mid-drive motor, you’ll be able to create a smoother, more fluid riding experience every time you hit the road.

Pros of Mid-Drive Motor

A mid-drive motor on an e-bike will give you the best weight distribution around.
With a mid-drive motor, you won’t be putting extra stress on the front or rear areas of the bike.
You’ll have easy access to both your front and rear wheels with a mid-drive motor.
You’ll be able to coast without any motor resistance if you stick with a mid-drive motor.

Cons of Mid-Drive Motor

A mid-drive motor places more stress on your bike chain. You may need to replace your bike chain more often or maintain it more often if you decide to purchase an e-bike with a mid-drive motor.
Remember, if your chain breaks while you are riding your bike, you’ll be stranded unless you make preparations for this event, “just in case.” So, you might want to keep that in mind and pay for a kit you can carry on your bike that will allow you to fix your chain in case it breaks while you are on the go.
A mid-drive motor also wears out other drive train components other than the chain faster, too, like the front sprocket and rear cassette. Again, you may want to make preparations for potential issues with these parts while you are on the road, too.

Final Thoughts

Now that you know a bit about what electric bikes have to offer, you’ll need to decide what type of electric bike is right for you. If you don’t want ever to pedal, then you’ll want a bike with a throttle. If you’re going to pedal on occasion, then we recommend getting a combination bike. However, if you prefer to avoid using an accelerator or you live in an area where throttles are not allowed on e-bikes, then you can purchase a bike that uses the pedal-assist mode.

Also, when you purchase your e-bike, you’ll need to know a bit of information about e-bike motors. We covered the three different types of e-bike motors above, including the front hub motor, rear hub motor, and mid-drive motor. If you’re planning on purchasing an e-bike with a throttle or a hybrid e-bike, you’ll most likely be purchasing an e-bike that has a mid-drive motor. That’s because mid-drive motors are the only kind of engine powerful enough to provide a throttle on most e-bikes.

Now that you know a bit more about e-bike throttles, e-bike pedal assists, and e-bike motors, it’s time to get out there and purchase that electric bike of your dreams today!

Posted on Last updated: September 16, 2021

Hey, I’m Tyler. I’ve been cycling mad ever since I was knee-high to a bike pump. True story. I once cycled for a week from California to Mexico just to get some tacos. The tacos were OK, but I’m not sure they were worth the chafe. Anyway, if you’re into cycling in any shape or form then come on in and take a look around.

The BikeRide Guide to Choosing the Best Electric Bike

What is an Electric Bike?

Electric bikes use an electric motor, along with pedals and some of the gearing of a traditional bicycle. This helps riders to travel longer distances and up more hills, than would otherwise be possible with their own energy.

Most bikes use a system known as ‘pedal-assist’. This means that rider input is ‘helped along’ by the motor. Electric bikes are great for anyone looking to travel further than they could on an unpowered bike. This makes ‘e-bikes’ suitable for senior cyclists and riders with compromised ability.

Some e-bikes offer throttle-only power, which means that riders can accelerate without pedaling at all. In most nations, it’s a requirement that electric bikes are partially human-powered.

The uses for an e-bike are as varied as the uses for regular bicycles.

What Can I Use an e-Bike For?

Commuting

There are probably more electric bikes designed for commuting than for any other purpose. The benefits are multiple.

You can use an e-bike to replace a vehicle commute. By doing so, you can avoid the costs of fuel, car maintenance, registration, tolls and parking. You’ll also reduce your carbon footprint and any emissions you would otherwise contribute by driving.

It can replace your public transport commute. You won’t have to pay for bus or train tickets and you can avoid standing in crowds and queues. By switching to e-biking, you’ll never have to waste time waiting around at bus stops and train stations.

Your electric bike lets you commute much longer distances than you could by pedal-power alone. Not only this, but you can arrive at your destination without being exhausted or drenched in sweat.

Car Replacement

Some folk decide to go-the-distance by using an e-bike to replace their car, outright. For this, you’ll need a hefty steed that can haul your groceries and / or up to two children.

Off-Road

For some riders, it’s all about ‘ripping it up’ off-road. There are dedicated, high-powered e-MTBs (electric mountain bikes) made just for this purpose. They’ll help you make those exhausting climbs that precede an awesome descent.

E-Gravel is the most recent off-road e-biking genre. E-Gravel bikes give riders the option to hit higher speeds and longer distances on flatter dirt roads.

Weekend Rides, Family Rides and Jaunts

Many casual cyclists are seeking an extra boost on a weekend ride or family outing.

E-bikes have the potential to even-out the fitness level between energetic youngsters and easy-going grandparents.

They also offer a less exhausting way to run errands or make shop-runs.

Deliveries and Cargo

Professionally, an e-bike can be an important part of a job or small business.

If this is you, you’ll be looking for a bike that’s powerful, durable, and sturdy enough to haul your required cargo.

Large battery capacities feature on delivery and cargo bikes, in order to handle big loads and long days.

Rehab and Limited Ability

For whatever reason, you may have limited ability to cycle. This could be due to age, injury or a physical disability. E-bikes can be a great way to supplement or rebuild strength.

Depending on your intended use, you’ll have different requirements concerning motor wattage, battery capacity, torque, build and configuration.

Consider these factors while reviewing the following information and when choosing a new e-bike.

Types of Electric Bikes

Electric bikes are available in almost every style that regular bikes are available in. Whether you’re looking for something to get you to work, or you want a hardcore full-suspension rig to help you get to the top of that gnarly mountain trail, there’s an e-bike available to meet your needs.

Commuters and Urban / City Bikes

At this time, the most popular types of e-bike are commuter and urban bikes. Many riders are looking for an e-bike that can get them to work over long distances or without working up a sweat.

For an electric commuting bike, you’ll want all the features that you would seek in a pedal-powered commuter, plus a moderately powered motor and battery capacity (unless you are commuting exceptionally long distances).

Tough U-locks and a removable battery are essential if you are locking up your e-bike in a public area.

Folding E-bikes

Folding e-bikes are also popular as commuters. They suit a multi-modal work commute that also involves using a train, bus, car or ferry.

For some riders, they can be used in conjunction with travel, to suit being transported by car or stored in a mobile home or boat. A folder may suit you if you live in an apartment.

A good folding bike is small, light and often used for shorter distances. This means that you can get away with a less powerful motor and a battery of moderate capacity. These factors help to lower the overall weight of an electric folding bike.

Mountain – e-MTB

Electric mountain bikes (e-MTBs) are available in both hardtail (front-suspension) and full-suspension varieties. They are ideal for avoiding exhaustion on all-day rides, by hauling riders to the top of downhill runs.

Hardtail e-MTBs can be quite light

Some mountain bikers just like to ride for longer distances without exhaustion. If you’re a senior rider, less-able or recovering from an injury, these bikes can be ideal for keeping up with friends or family members.

You’ll be looking for a high-torque motor to get you out of difficult situations on less-stable surfaces.

Electric mountain bikes can be thirsty for power.

You may want a high-capacity battery. Alternatively, you can keep a second, fully-charged battery on-hand.

E-MTBs are now permitted in most National Parks. But in certain areas, they are still restricted. Check the relevant laws in your local area.

Fat Tire E-Bikes

Hauling heavy tires through snow, mud or sand can get tiring and limit rides to shorter distances.

The extra boost from a pedal-assist system can allow riders to carry more and ride further. A powerful motor and high capacity battery are important here.

But electric fat bikes are not just a niche choice.

Many first-time e-bike buyers head straight for a bad-ass, do-anything, monster-truck look and floaty ride style.

This can only be provided by a big bike with balloon tires. There are many models to choose from, in all price ranges.

Electric Road Bikes

Electric road bikes allow riders to ride for longer at faster speeds. They assist less-able or older riders to maintain pace with their riding group.

E-Road bikes can be discrete

Most electric road cyclists prefer to pedal actively throughout a ride. Accordingly, electric road bikes are configured to rely on active pedal-assist. Throttles are less common.

Most of these bikes are lightweight and are equipped with streamlined motors and batteries that are smaller than those found on other electric bikes.

Because e-Road bikes are so lightweight, the decrease in motor size and battery capacity does not necessarily translate to less power or battery range.

Gravel

A recent sector of e-biking has appeared with the emergence of e-Gravel bikes. You’ll be looking for all the usual gravel bike bike features available in your price range, plus a few specific to the electric bike world.

Gravel is more of a performance sector. High-speeds, long distances and efficiency are priorities. As such, you might look to light-weight builds with high-capacity batteries.

Cargo

For every household, e-Cargo bikes offer an exciting alternative to the family car. Some families have even sold their second or only vehicle, after purchasing a versatile cargo e-bike. High quality specimens can be configured to carry two children, in conjunction with a load of groceries.

For anyone employed in the delivery business, electric bikes provide a cheap means of transporting cargo, especially in urban areas. Running costs are low. Also, an electric bike can easily wend its way through heavy traffic and won’t need a parking spot when it reaches its destination.

Electric cargo bikes are usually quite heavy. In conjunction with the big loads that they’re expected to lug, the drain on batteries can be considerable. Look for a high capacity battery or a dual-battery system. You’ll also need a reasonably powerful motor and a system that expresses considerable torque.

Retro

For some, a retro-styled e-bike is the way to go. If this is the direction you’re heading, then performance and speed probably aren’t your top priorities. As such, you can get away with less torque and a moderately-powered motor.

Even so, some of these frames are large and heavy. So you’ll need at least enough battery and oomph to reach optimum cruising speeds.

Pedal Assist

Fill In many countries, pedal assist e-bikes are the only e-bikes that can be ridden without a license or registration.

In the United States, these are categorized as ‘Class 1’ and ‘Class 3’ e-bikes. The motor kicks in when you begin pedaling.

On the best electric bikes, this feeling is intuitive. It should allow you to maintain a desired level of input and fitness, according to the level of assistance that you choose.

Most e-bikes have 3 to 5 levels of pedal assist available. They’ll also give you the option of disabling the motor. With no pedal assist, your e-bike acts like a regular (but heavy) push-bike. Here’s a run-down of an average, three-level pedal assist system.

LEVEL 1 – ‘ECO’

This is the lowest mode and is optimized for maximum range. Some manufacturers will claim up to – and in excess of 60 miles. The level of assist offered here is usually 25% to 80% of the maximum available. It suits level terrain and a decent amount of rider input.

LEVEL 2 – ‘NORMAL’

At this level you’re looking at 100% to 150% assist, in addition to the rider’s pedal input. This level provides more torque on take-off, from a standstill.

LEVEL 3 – ‘HIGH’

At this level, you can expect a maximum of 200% assistance from your motor. It’s great for steep climbs and headwinds. Your range is greatly reduced at this level, and is best reserved for short bursts when in need.

Throttle Only

This is fairly self-explanatory. Some e-bikes offer a throttle-only option, activated by a grip-shift lever or button. Using this method, you can activate the motor without pedaling. These bikes come under the legal category of a ‘Class 2’ e-bike.

Many of these bikes also feature multi-level pedal assist options. Keep in mind that working the throttle unassisted will drain the battery fairly quickly.

Before you can make sense of the e-bike options available to you, it’s helpful to get a basic understanding of e-bike terminology.

Terms

Sometimes, approaching the world of e-bikes can be daunting. Even if you are a clued-up cyclist and bike aficionado, the additional knowledge needed to make a discerning e-bike purchase can be bewildering. But it needn’t be. You don’t have to be an electrical or electronics engineer, but it’s handy to have a few terms under your belt.

Watt Hours (Wh)

On your e-bike, ‘Watt hours’ is a measure of available energy. This is probably the most important measurement to look for in your e-bike specs. It will be abbreviated as ‘Wh’ and is the most reliable measurement of your bike’s battery capacity.

In gas-guzzling terminology, think of it as the size of your fuel tank. In simple terms, the higher the number of Watt hours, the more range that is available to you. The amount of energy that your battery has available is known as its ‘capacity’.

Watt hours can be calculated if you have access to the voltage and amp hour figures for a bike’s battery. It’s a simple calculation.

24v x 20ah = 480Wh
36v x 10ah = 360Wh
36v x 11ah = 396Wh (≈ ‘400wh’)
48v x 17.5 ah = 840Wh

So what does it mean, this term ‘Watt hours’ ? A ‘Watt’ is a unit of power. ‘Watt hours’ is a measurement of power used over a period of time and represents a measure of ‘energy’.

In terms of what you need to know, regarding your e-bike purchase:

A 250wh battery can deliver:

How does this translate to your ride? If you are really working the throttle at its limit, your battery will last half the time that it would if you were running the battery at half of its capacity. Simply put, if you lay off the juice and contribute some pedal power, your battery lasts longer.

A bigger battery will take you further, but can add considerable weight.

“But how far?”, I hear you ask. This varies according to a number of factors, including:

Bike weight
Rider weight
Elevation
Rider input (pedal power)
Wind speed (and direction) – this can dramatically affect energy consumption

One expert puts it like this:

“On a lightweight electric bike, on typical fairly flat roads, not much wind or none at all, while barely pedaling… not working up a sweat, on pumped tires, typical 200lb or less rider, expect burn rates of 17 watt hours per mile on average (= 10Wh per km)… It can be much more or much less depending on countless factors but this is a realistic number to start with.” 10

Therefore, as this same expert goes on to say, “A 36v 10ah battery pack with 360Wh of capacity would… in theory provide 22 miles (36km) of range, from a full 100% charge.”

These calculations are much more straightforward if you pay attention to the kilometer figures in the calculations (and convert them to miles). From this info, you can easily work out what battery would be suitable for you. Is your commute longer or shorter than 22 miles, return? If so, and you were using the battery mentioned above, you wouldn’t have to charge at your destination.

Amp Hours (Ah)

In reference to an e-bike’s battery and on manufacturer’s specifications, Amp hours should always be listed.

For the buyer of a new bike, Amp hours is useful in calculating Watt hours.

This is done by using the aforementioned formula:

VOLTAGE x AMP HOURS = WATT HOURS.

Amp hours will almost always be within the range of 8Ah to 28Ah.

Voltage

Voltage relates to the entire system on an e-bike. Voltage pushes the flow of energy and generally relates to speed. The higher the voltage, the faster your e-bike can go. A 36V system won’t necessarily use a battery that’s exactly 36V, but it will be close.

Usually, new e-bike systems sit between 24V and 48V. There are also 52V options.

Now that you get the basics, let’s look at the important components that make up an e-bike.

Batteries

The battery-pack you see on e-bikes looks like a singular unit. It usually takes the appearance of a long, black box.

Within this ‘battery pack’, a number of smaller battery units are connected together in succession (as a pack).

Individual battery units are clearly visible within this battery-pack

Once you’ve got the basic technical factors sorted, you can understand your battery needs. The experts advise to seek out a battery that offers slightly longer range than what you’ll usually need. This will cover you when you inevitably get lost on a lonely, unlit highway, far from home.

Many first-timers aim for a huge battery, in an effort to cover the longest possible ride. The problem here is that large batteries add considerable weight. This extra weight slows you down and requires more power to overcome, creating a Catch 22 situation. In any event, ‘slightly more than what’s needed’ is a good yardstick.

Some bikes come pre-configured to accept a dual-battery setup. This means that you can keep weight down and use a single battery on less-demanding trips, while having the option to slot in a second battery on epic quests and trips to the lumber yard. A second battery means double the range, but double the weight.

Many bikes come with a lockable battery. You will be provided with a key that allows you to lock your battery pack to your bike’s frame.

Almost all modern battery packs are removable. This allows you to charge the battery wherever a convenient outlet is located.

Just as importantly, it allows you to remove the pack to prevent theft. But if you’re just spending two minutes to dash into the bodega for a loaf of bread, it could be more convenient to lock the pack and leave it where it is.

Range

We’ve discussed how technical factors relate to range, but what should you expect when you’re shopping around? If you are consulting a seller about your needs, they should be able to give you advice based on a few factors. It’s a good idea to either consult an expert who can give you trusted advice or use the information available to assess the specifications listed for new e-bikes.

The reason for this, is that some vendors and manufacturers may overstate range expectations.

Using either of these methods, an expert or yourself should assess your needs based on your genre and style of riding (commuting, mountain bike, gravel, cargo etc), the amount of pedaling you’ll contribute vs. the amount of pedal-assist that you’ll require and your own weight.

The average range of an e-bike, using moderate levels of assist, is around 20 to 35 miles. Do you need more than this in a day? For most riders’ commuting needs, this is ample.

For bigger cargo needs, you may need more power and a bigger battery. Previously, we mentioned how range is affected by a number of factors including; wind, elevation, pedal effort and the combined weight of you and your cargo.

Your range is also influenced by how you use the motor. A lot of stop-starting and throttling will tear through juice in a Rapid fashion.

The resistance of muddy, slippery or snowy surfaces will require more effort from your battery to overcome.

One of the factors that is mostly outside of the rider’s control, is the outside temperature. Both extremes of weather can lead to deficits in battery capacity. First in the short-term, then eventually degrading the capacity on a long-term basis.

Battery Life

Most batteries are expected to last for 300 to 1000 charge ‘cycles’ or for around 3 to 5 years. After this period, your battery will not last as long as it did when box-fresh. It’s natural for battery life to reduce over time.

Most major brands give their batteries a 2-year warranty.

Temperature extremes can be detrimental to battery capacity

Experts advise e-bikers to seek a battery that has a two year warranty, at minimum. Other factors that affect battery life include:

Storage
Maintenance
Use with heavy cargo loads
Exposure to extremes of temperature
Frequency of charging (a battery should be charged at least every three months)

It’s a good idea to make every effort to prolong your battery’s life, as they can cost from a few hundred to as much as 1500 to replace.

Charging

Manufacturers will often state how long it takes to fully charge the battery on an e-bike model. This information can be invaluable. If you’re someone who has a long commute, you might need to charge-up for a few hours at your destination. Or, you might not have this opportunity.

Charging times vary according to the capacity of your battery and the amperage of your charger. 2-amp and 3-amp chargers are common stock options that are often sold with new e-bikes.

If your e-bike comes with a 4-amp charger, you’re in luck. This is considered to be a ‘fast charger’.

It’s possible to charge a battery at either a fast or slow rate, though persistent ultra-fast-charging would lessen the life of your battery.

Here are some rough averages of how long it takes to fully charge an e-bike battery, using the charger provided by the manufacturer.

Average time to full charge: 3.5 to 6.0 hours
Average time to half charge: 1.5 to 2.1 hours
Average time to 80% charge: 2.0 to 2.5 hours

According to recent figures, the average price of electricity in the United States is 13.72 cents per kilowatt hour. There are 1000 watt hours in one kilowatt hour, so a 250Wh battery will cost less than four cents to fully charge.

A fully juiced 500Wh battery would cost you less than seven cents! Removable battery packs are now common. They keep your battery safe, by allowing you to take it with you when you lock up. They also allow you to charge your battery separately from your bike.

Controllers

This device is the brain of your e-bike. It’s connected to your bike’s battery, motor and (if present), your throttle. It controls the movement of power from the battery to the motor, by pulsing on and off very quickly. This function is known as ‘Pulse Width Modulation’ (PWM).

It prevents excess stress and overheating of your battery, as well as ensuring that your motor doesn’t overheat. What this means, is that you can’t instantly slam the throttle from a dead stop to full bore.

The controller sets a limit of how many Amps are allowed to flow to the motor. This is known as the controller’s maximum amp rating. As we’ll soon see, this radically affects how much power is available to you.

Motors

Many sellers will advertise their e-bike models according to the motor’s wattage. Mostly, you’ll see 250, 350, 500 and 750-watt e-bikes. At first, this may come across as a straightforward way to determine the power of your desired e-bike. However, wattage means very little on its own. It’s important to take into account your battery’s voltage and the maximum current (in amps), that your e-bike’s controller can handle.

An e-bike with a 36 volt battery and a 15A controller is capable of putting out 540 watts at peak power. 36 x 15 = 540. This is the case, even if it’s advertised as having a ‘250 watt’ motor. So you might be getting more power than you originally expected.

The intricacies of e-bike power ratings can become very detailed. You can find resources online to satisfy your deepest level of curiosity. For now, let’s go into the other characteristics of e-bike motors.

There are two main types of e-bike motor, each being positioned differently on your new e-bike. They both have benefits and drawbacks.

Hub Motors

Hub motors are situated within the hub of an e-bike’s rear or front wheel. On new e-bikes, rear hub-driven motors are common. They are the most affordable option available. Front-driven hub motors are becoming less popular and are usually found on electric conversions of standard bicycles.

A direct-drive rear hub motor

Hub motors can be either Geared or Direct Drive.

Geared hub motors use internal nylon gears to reduce the motor’s output to optimal speed and efficiency. This makes them more complicated but lighter than direct drive systems.

They offer more torque and are a bit noisier than direct drive systems, which are simpler, more reliable and more powerful. But they’re heavier and larger than geared options, resulting in more demand on your battery.

Benefits

Hub motors are usually the cheaper option
As a reliable, self-contained system, it requires minimal maintenance
If your chain breaks, you can ride home solely on the power of the electric hub
If your hub motor fails, you can pedal home using your bike’s drivetrain
Hub motors put less stress on the bike’s other gearing components

Things to Consider

Hub-driven systems can overheat on long, steep climbs
They’re heavier than mid-drive options
Tire changes can be complicated, involving disconnecting motor wires
Direct-drive motors don’t have any internal gears
Geared hub motors have a single gear ratio
Having a heavy hub motor on the rear or front wheel can imbalance an e-bike
Spokes are more likely to break, due to the weight of the hub in the wheel
The width of a hub motor may limit cassette gears to seven speeds
Tire widths are limited by the rim that’s attached to the hub motor
Hub motor cadence sensors may result in lurchy or awkward motor timing

Internally-geared hub motors can be discrete

Rear wheel hub motors may place too much weight at the rear of your e-bike.

Front hub driven systems have decreased in popularity. With minimal weight on the front-end of most bikes, riders can easily spin-out under torque, on wet and slippery surfaces. This has led to a number of wipe-outs.

Mid-Drive Motors

Mid-drive motors are situated between the cranks of your e-bike. These motors require a specific kind of frame, that accommodates a motor in place of a regular bike’s bottom bracket. What’s the skinny?

A mid-drive motor on an electric mountain bike

Benefits

A central location leads to even weight distribution on your e-bike
They are typically lighter and smaller than a hub motor of comparable power
Direct pedaling input leads to more range, especially across climbs
Tire changes are unaffected by mid-drive motors
A torque sensor accurately meters out assistance according to pedal power
Riders generally report a smoother ride quality
Tackles steeper hills for longer than a hub motor of similar power
open to different set-ups that use standardized bike components

Things to Consider

They are the more expensive option
These motors depend on more rider input, through pedal-power
Mid-drives wear harder on chains and cassettes
They are more complex and require more maintenance than hub motors
Most brands don’t offer repair options outside of warranties

Choosing a Motor

Hub-Driven Motors offer maximum assistance for less pedal effort. This suits senior riders or those with a disability, as well as anyone seeking physical rehabilitation for an injury.

But they’re also great for anyone who’s a less-experienced or less-frequent cyclist. If you’re a new rider or returning to cycling, a hub-driven e-bike may be for you.

Mid-Drive Motors suit riders who want a boost, but who still want to stay fit. They are the preferred option for experienced cyclists. Riders who know how to change gears will be able to attain an efficient ride and extend the life of a mid-drive e-bike.

Torque

To simplify, torque describes the amount of power available to you at lower revolutions (RPMs). In straightforward on-road terms, the benefits are two-fold. A motor with higher torque will give you more power from a dead stop. It will also help you climb hills at a faster speed, for a longer period of time.

This motor claims up to 160Nm of torque

Torque is measured in ‘Newton Meters’ and you’ll see it listed in e-bike specs, using the abbreviation ‘Nm’. Lighter bikes require less torque, so 40 to 50Nm should be plenty, while e-mountain and cargo bikes need more torque to overcome heavier loads and troublesome terrain. Expect figures up to and beyond 75Nm.

Direct-drive hub motors have less torque than geared hub motors.

Geared hub motors are the choice for more torque, from a hub-driven option.

Mid-drive motors in low gear, can climb steeper hills for longer than a similarly powered hub motor.

Brakes

An hydraulic brake on a rear hub motor e-bike

There’s nothing unique about e-bike brakes. But with consistently high speeds and extra weight (compared to a regular push-bike), you’ll be seeking ample stopping power.

Almost all e-bikes use disc brakes. Mechanical disc brakes are reliable and easily adjusted. Hydraulic brakes are more powerful but may require professional adjustment and repair.

Some cheaper e-bikes come fit with rim brakes, usually as v-brakes. You may also find drum brakes on a rear wheel, sometimes used in combination with a front wheel rim brake. Be wary of the increased stopping distance and foresight that these brakes will require.

Weight

Lightweight e-Road bikes sometimes conceal their electric components

Electric bikes are heavier than their pedal-powered counterparts. That’s just a fact. Maybe one day, this won’t be true. But for now, it’s unavoidable. A motor, battery and cabling all add up to decent heft.

Eventually, most e-bikers run into the unexpected situation where they run out of battery. It’s important to consider how heavy an e-bike is to pedal unpowered. Some e-bikes are relatively easy to propel on flat ground, without juice. Others can be a real slog.

e-Cargo bikes are heavy but capable

There is another situation where the weight of your bike can have heavy implications.

If you live in an apartment or walk-up, carrying some e-bikes can be almost impossible. Others aren’t too much of a problem.

Here’s a rough idea of e-bike weight ranges:

Commuter, City and Hybrid Bikes commonly sit somewhere between 33lbs and 55lbs, but can get as heavy as 100lb. ‘Moped-style’ e-bikes can reach 120lb.

e-MTBs are powerful but hefty

Full-Suspension e-Mountain-Bikes: Lighter, more expensive models can be as svelte as 37lbs, which aids maneuverability on technical trails and jumps. Full-suspension fat bikes can weigh up to 100lb. Retro-style e-Bikes may have large, sweeping frames. They suit a casual riding style that isn’t radically affected by extra bulk. They often weigh between 55lbs and 65lbs.

The weight of a long, flowing frame keeps things ‘slow and low’ on a retro e-Bike

E-Road Bikes are the lightest of all, with an overall weight as low as 19lb. Most sit somewhere between 28lbs and 31lbs. These trim figures are reflected in the high of these bikes.

E-Cargo Bikes present the heaviest options, weighing in above 70lbs. But these rigs may be capable of carrying as much as 440lbs in extra baggage.

Cost

As it is with most other kinds of bicycles, there are options available at all price-points. Here is a rough idea of what to expect for your dollar.

500 to 700

Hub motor, front v-brake and rear drum brake

At this price, expect e-bikes with a hub-driven motor in a configuration that may be similar to an e-bike conversion. You can source bikes at this price from big-box retailers. Componentry and gearing will be similar to the level of a low-cost big-box bike. Some folding e-bikes come in at this price range.

Most bikes in this range are urban commuters or present as ‘mountain bike-style’. Some will have mechanical disc brakes. Others are set up with rim brakes (v-brakes) or even drum brakes. Heavier aluminum and steel frames can be expected.

On low cost bikes, front suspension is not unheard of. At this price, it can offer limited benefits and durability. It’s possible that cheap suspension will only add complexity and weight, without real benefits. 36V systems are affordable in this price range.

The price savings you receive from online retailers are due to the fact that many of these manufacturers don’t have to pay for a ‘middleman’ or storefront. Your e-bike will be partially assembled for packaging and transport. Keep in mind that any warranty that’s offered may be contingent on having your e-bike professionally assembled by your local bike mechanic.

After-market servicing and parts may or may not be locally available.

700 to 1400

Motors at this price range are mostly hub-driven. Frames are usually mid-range aluminum.

A rear hub motor and disc brakes

Componentry may be similar to that found on a 250 to 500 pedal-powered bike. Most bikes in this range are commuters and city bikes.

1400 to 2500

In this arena, quality shoots up a notch. Known brand-name mid-drive systems enter the fray, including Bosch and Shimano. Frames may be of a lighter, higher-quality aluminum construction.

Handy extras include racks, mudguards and lights that are integrated into the bike’s electrical system. Many of these bikes are still urban / city / commuter types but some lower-end and flat-bar road bikes also become available.

A few mid-range, hardtail e-MTBs can also be found. Hydraulic brakes are now common.

2500 to 3500

A mid-drive motor and hydraulic disc brakes

In this range, your dollar gets you a more powerful mid-drive motor and a higher-capacity battery.

Hydraulic brakes should be standard. Integrated lights and accessories can be expected, while name-brand components are a given.

At the least, frames should be high-quality aluminum.

3500 to 10000 and Beyond…

A full-carbon, high-powered, top-end beast

In this corner, we have full-suspension electric mountain bikes, high-end commuters, performance e-Gravel, drop-bar e-Road bikes and reliable cargo machines.

Components are lightweight, high quality and durable. Racing rigs are fast and light, with concealed batteries and inconspicuous motors. Many are made from carbon fiber.

Motors will be powerful and batteries are high capacity. Some options come ready-built to incorporate a second battery in a dual setup.

Accessories

Ready-to-go: fenders, lights and a rear rack

It pays to consider the inclusion of extras and integrated accessories as part of the cost of your new e-bike.

Some e-bikes come fit with front and rear lights. The best systems are connected to your e-bike’s battery and can be operated from a switch on the handlebar.

Other e-bikes are equipped with fenders and racks. A chainguard may be integrated into the design of your e-bike. It’s a sure way to keep your clothes grease-free on commutes.

These accessories can cut costs and make things easier, because your bike is ready-to-go from new.

E-Bike Classes and Laws

In the United States, electric bike laws vary massively from state to state.

It’s best to check your local laws before purchasing an electric bike.

This is especially true when you are ordering a bike online, as it may be tuned to match the laws of another state or country.

E-bikes are not illegal and you needn’t fear that you’re flouting the law by buying and owning one. Local governments and authorities are also users of electric bikes.

In many areas, electric bikes are classed into three categories. This affects where you can ride your chosen e-bike and how fast you can ride it. All classes are limited to a motor size of 750 Watts.

Pedal-assist bikes are also used by the enforcers of road regulations

Class 1 – Pedal Assist Bikes

On these bikes, the electric drive of the bike must be activated through pedaling.

Sensors measure pedal movement, pedal torque and / or bicycle speed.

In most parts of the United States, these bikes are limited to a top speed of 20 mph.

Because of their limited power, they are permitted to be used in the same areas as regular ‘push-bikes’; streets, bike lanes, bike paths and off-road trails.

Class 2 – Throttle Activated

These bikes are able to be activated by a throttle, without any pedal assistance.

Many of these bikes also have a pedal-assist function.

Like class one bikes, they are limited to a top speed of 20mph and are permitted to be ridden in the same areas as regular push-bikes.

Class 2 bikes are less common outside of the U.S. and China, where they are more highly regulated.

Class 3 – Speed Pedelec

These bikes are pedal-assisted, with a top-speed limit of 28mph. This speed must be achieved with pedal assistance.

Class 3 e-bikes are permitted on roads and on-road bike lanes but are not allowed to be used on bike trails and multi-use paths.

Even though the higher speed of a Class 3 bike may seem attractive, keep in mind that this may limit your access options to paths and trails.

Class 3 e-bikes are suitable if you enjoy on-road cycling and use your e-bike purely for commuting.

Feel the Spark!

In the last decade, cyclists have realized that e-bikes are a great way to ride for longer distances and at higher speeds.

Riding at the first UCI e-MTB World Championships in 2019

Electric bikes allow many cyclists to make that long-distance commute to work, while leaving their car in the garage.

In times past, e-bikes were sometimes seen as exclusive to a less-able or less-motivated rider base.

Some competitive cyclists looked down on them. This is no longer the case. They even have their own dedicated professional racing events.

In recent years, e-bikes have revealed themselves as one of the fastest-growing transport solutions in built-up metropolitan areas, worldwide.

Whatever your reason for choosing to go electric; shop around, choose wisely and ride on!

Owen Jesse Owen has spent decades building and riding bikes; as a messenger, photographer and for an environmental non profit. He’s volunteered teaching others to fix their bikes and loves a genre busting bike build.

Sources

Adopt the Three-Class e Bike system

Electric bikes (eBikes) are gaining traction as a means of transportation in the United States after enjoying years of popularity in Europe. Anyone can ride them, from the most seasoned bike rider to someone who hasn’t biked since childhood. EBikes have the potential to expand bike riding to new audiences and keep people riding bikes throughout their lives.

But some confusion around how and where electric bikes can be ridden is dampening their growth potential and as an emerging technology, they require clear regulations to govern their use and create stability in the marketplace.

Lack of Regulation

In the United States, at the federal level, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission regulates eBikes for the purpose of product safety for manufacturing and first sale. States decide how eBikes can be used on streets and bike paths. Over time, without clear guidance, states adopted outdated rules governing the use of eBikes — some treating them like human-powered bicycles, some treating them like motor vehicles, and everything in between. Some have no regulation whatsoever.

Taking Steps toward Clarity

Since 2014, with leadership team from PeopleForBikes, the national bicycle advocacy group and bicycle industry trade association, more than 30 states have passed a standardized regulation for eBike use with a simple, straightforward approach known as the “3-Class” System. This model legislation defines three common classes of eBikes (based on speed, wattage, and operation), and allows states to decide which types of bicycle infrastructure each class can use (typically Class 1 and Class 2 eBikes are allowed wherever traditional bikes are allowed). It also requires eBike makers to place a highly visible sticker on the frame to indicate an eBike’s Class.

In 2015, California was the first state to adopt this “3-Class” approach, and since then, 32 other states followed suit: Alabama, Arizona, Arkansas, Colorado, Connecticut, Florida, Georgia, Idaho, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Louisiana, Maine, Maryland, Michigan, Mississippi, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, North Dakota, Ohio, Oklahoma, South Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, Utah, Virginia, Vermont, Washington, West Virginia, Wisconsin, and Wyoming. states around the country should adopt this “3-Class” standard to eliminate confusion, enhance safety, and promote this green transportation method.

The three classes are defined as follows:

All classes limit the motor’s power to 1 horsepower (750W).

Classes and Access

Some states treat Class 1 eBikes like traditional mountain or pavement bicycles, legally allowed to ride where bicycles are permitted, including bike lanes, roads, multiuse trails and bike-only paths. New York City’s Mayor de Blasio recently announced the city will officially allow Class 1 eBikes. While New York City’s decision is unrelated to singletrack trail use for electric mountain bikes (eMTBs), we believe that Class 1 pedal-assist eBikes should have the same rights and responsibilities as traditional bikes and therefore also be allowed on non-motorized mountain bike trails, as is the case in Europe.

Class 2 throttle-assist eBikes are often allowed most places a traditional bicycle can go, though some states and cities are opting for additional restrictions (e.g. New York City Michigan State). Class 2 may not be suitable for singletrack mountainbike trails — it has been shown that they pose greater physical damage to trails due to the throttle-actuation. Class 2 may be better suited for multi-use OHV trails designed for more rugged off-road vehicles.

Class 3 eBikes are typically allowed on roads and on-road bike lanes (“curb to curb” infrastructure), but restricted from bike trails and multiuse paths. While a 20-mph maximum speed is achievable on a traditional bicycle, decision makers and agencies consider the greater top-assisted speed of a Class 3 eBike too fast for most bike paths and trails that are often shared with other trail users.

Bosch only makes Class 1 and Class 3 eBike systems, which to be clear, are both pedal assist and provide support up to 20mph and 28mph respectively. Learn more about Bosch eBike systems here.

Everyone stands to benefit from common-sense rules on how and where to ride an eBike. With clear regulation and updated state laws, law enforcement will understand what rights eBike users have and when to enforce the law, and can easily identify the class of bike based on its sticker. Bike retailers can help their customers understand where each type of eBike can be used, boosting their sales. People who already ride eBikes will have easy rules to follow on where they can ride, and new bicyclists who may be discouraged from riding a traditional bicycle due to limited physical fitness, age, disability or convenience gain new transportation alternatives. To learn more about where electric bikes can be ridden in the United States visit People for Bikes.

Adopt the Three-Class e Bike system

But some confusion around how and where electric bikes can be ridden is dampening their growth potential and as an emerging technology, they require clear regulations to govern their use and create stability in the marketplace.

Lack of Regulation

Taking Steps toward Clarity

The three classes are defined as follows:

All classes limit the motor’s power to 1 horsepower (750W).

Classes and Access

Some states treat Class 1 eBikes like traditional mountain or pavement bicycles, legally allowed to ride where bicycles are permitted, including bike lanes, roads, multiuse trails and bike-only paths. New York City’s Mayor de Blasio recently announced the city will officially allow Class 1 eBikes. While New York City’s decision is unrelated to singletrack trail use for electric mountain bikes (eMTBs), we believe that Class 1 pedal-assist eBikes should have the same rights and responsibilities as traditional bikes and therefore also be allowed on non-motorized mountain bike trails, as is the case in Europe.

Class 2 throttle-assist eBikes are often allowed most places a traditional bicycle can go, though some states and cities are opting for additional restrictions (e.g. New York City Michigan State). Class 2 may not be suitable for singletrack mountainbike trails — it has been shown that they pose greater physical damage to trails due to the throttle-actuation. Class 2 may be better suited for multi-use OHV trails designed for more rugged off-road vehicles.

Bosch only makes Class 1 and Class 3 eBike systems, which to be clear, are both pedal assist and provide support up to 20mph and 28mph respectively. Learn more about Bosch eBike systems here.

How Do Electric Bikes Work?

Electric bikes seem to be the talk of the town. Whether you’ve seen your neighbors riding them, had your food delivered on them, or you’ve heard the buzz about them on your national and local news channels, there is no doubt that the eBike revolution is in full swing. As the buzz about eBikes only continues to grow, riders new to the eBiking game may be wondering: How do electric bikes work? Electric bikes really are the way of the future and can be beneficial to the environment, your health, and the greater well-being of city infrastructure. Let’s take a look into how they work!

Electric Bike Design

Each brand name and type of electric bike brings its own standards and benefits, but all of them include two important components: A long-lasting battery and a powerful motor. eBike batteries are typically removable and must be inserted while you ride to allow the motor to engage. They take about 4-6 hours to charge fully, and mileage ranges vary depending upon multiple factors including battery amperage, rider weight, terrain type, and more! Without a battery, the eBike’s motor would have no way of engaging, and the bike would function as a conventional bicycle. Motors for electric bikes can range from 250-1,000 watts. There are hub motor eBikes, as well as mid-drive motor eBikes, and each of them comes with its own perks and benefits. Regardless of motor wattage and type, the motor is the primary muscle of an eBike, and it is what gets your wheels turning from the get-go. In terms of Lectric eBikes specifically, co-founders Levi, Robby, and Brent each had differing focuses when it came to their core eBike design. Brent wanted an affordable price point, Robby wanted efficiency in terms of engineering, and Levi wanted the design to be accessible to the masses. They achieved all three of these focuses with the design of Lectric XP series!

Electric Bike Throttle

As simple as it sounds, riders who are unfamiliar with electric bikes often wonder do you have to pedal an electric bike? The reality with throttle-enabled electric bikes is that you actually do not have to pedal if you do not wish to. The throttle will allow you to propel your eBike forward with the twist of your wrist. By twisting the throttle, the eBike’s motor engages with a specified amount of power, depending upon how much torque is applied by the rider, and propels your wheels forward. Throttle-powered eBikes are great for folks who like to be able to take off on a whim or enjoy the feeling of riding a moped, and having the power of a 500W motor at their fingertips.

Electric Bike Pedal Assist

Another way for the rider to engage the motor of an eBike is by using a pedal assist function. With pedal assist, the rider controls the motor through their pedaling. You can think of this similarly to how the throttle works, but the trigger is pedaling instead of twisting your wrist. How does the bike know how often and hard you’re pedaling, you may ask? Devices called cadence and torque sensors inside the eBike motor measure how fast and how hard the rider is pedaling, thus providing the perfect amount of power to your ride. As in Lectric eBikes, there are often multiple levels of pedal assist, designed to provide the rider with the ideal amount of assistance that they seek on any given adventure. Pedal assist options make electric biking a great resource for riders enduring rehabilitation, struggling to make it up hills and tougher terrain on a conventional bicycle, or simply looking for a more relaxed and enjoyable ride.

Electric Bike Classifications

When it comes to eBikes, there are three different classes recognized by nearly two dozen US states. Each of these classifications has to do with the two main electric power options on an eBike: Pedal assist and throttle. It is important to verify electric bike classification requirements before using certain trails, visiting national parks, and exploring certain cities! See below for an outline of each eBike classification:

Lectric eBikes2311 West Utopia RoadPhoenix, AZ 85027

Currently experiencing high call volume

Sources:

https://bicycle2work.com/do-electric-bikes-have-throttles/
https://www.bikeride.com/best-electric-bikes/
https://www.Bosch-ebike.com/us/everything-about-the-ebike/stories/three-class-ebike-system
https://www.Bosch-ebike.com/us/everything-about-the-ebike/stories/three-class-ebike-system
https://lectricebikes.com/blogs/blog/how-do-electric-bikes-work